MMjoy

[Sokol1_br]

Yes, try use "Clear Registry" button.

 

After write the firmware again, this reset can be damaged the previous.

[Brewnix]

Ok I got it back in service. I tried the clear registry button it didn't work, I also tried deleting in the pic above from registry that I circle in red and that didn't work. I eneded up clicking on USBDeview button above the Donate button in firmware tab of Joysetup. I believe this just shows everything that has been plugged in to the USB hub. Correct me if I am wrong. I delete from there the "MMjoy2-20150626" and "MMjoy2-220151118" unplugged the device and plugged it back in and my new Named USB Composite Device "X55 Hybrid" showed up... "MMjoy2-20150626" and "MMjoy2-220151118" these 2 canceled each other out I guess causing joysetup not seeing the device. But USBDeview is good option. Thanks for all the help almost there!!!!!

 

UPDATE!! I installed PCB added all 8 buttons and 2 axes for Dual throttle. The only problem now is when I Move small stick on switch to activate one button it activates all buttons at once. out of the 8 positions I have wired one position activates all. And the other 7 position of switches don't do nothing. What the chances of the cd4021 being damaged with all the fiddling around, are they sensitive to voltage. I know it says max of 20volts on the tech sheet.

 

Edited May 11, 2016 by Brewnix

[Brewnix]

Funny turn of events so I did have it working all 8 buttons pressed individually functioned correctly. But it seem to only work correctly for a few mins then it back to press 1 button that lights up all buttons in MMjoy. Like picture above. Does that make any sense?

[Brewnix]

It looks nice, I am still waiting form my PCBs to arrive.

 

These boards are through hole plated so you can solder from both sides, but I recommend to solder like in your photo. You need to be careful with resistor network orientation and 4021 chip orientation. I'd add capacitor anyway, maybe not necessary on all of boards if multiple are connected into single daisy chain. It is simple filter to protect circuit from interference that can happen if you use unshielded wires. Just solder it anyway, it cannot hurt, it will not change functionality. It doesn't have to be 100nf, anything close to that value is OK, 220nF, 470nF...

 

4021 is oriented properly.

 

Look at this:

 

 

This is proper orientation of resistor network, there should be dot where common pin is. If you don't have resistor network you can do it with 10K resistors, I will not look nice bit it can be done, this is schematics of resistor network:

 

 

This one is with 10 pins but basically the same thing.

 

As I said before I hope it works. Please post results.

 

Soon I will make Pro Micro shield as well, everything will be plug n' play.

 

Will you share your gimbal design? I bought warthog grip few days ago...

 

Hello debolestis was wondering on the comment about the Promicro shield did you happen to see that OSH Park had one I did a search for Joystick and this popped up. Does this look like it will work.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/fULmditL

also

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/SsFjqyuj

[debolestis]

I didn't have time to finish it. I'll upload it on OSH Park in next few days.

Two boards that you found are suitable for button matrix, rows and columns, not shift registers.

 

Have you tested SR yet?

[Brewnix]

I didn't have time to finish it. I'll upload it on OSH Park in next few days.

Two boards that you found are suitable for button matrix, rows and columns, not shift registers.

 

Have you tested SR yet?

 

Ok I can see they didn't have a SR spot but I thought I would take a chance and use the ohm meter to trace the pins see if I could use it.

 

Yes I did test it and it worked for a little bit. Currently I have the Promicro only on the Breadboard and SR in the Throttle handle laying on the desk. The experience I have it worked for about 1 min all buttons were registering 1-8 then I think the breadboard has loose connections or the pin holes are wore out. Cause then it stops working. And one button blinks all buttons at once. I am thinking I have to mount the Promicro solid to get it to work right.

 

So for troubleshooting I used a different shift register but plugged in to the same breadboard and semi same result. So I am thinking common dominator is the bad breadboard. So I am just going to mount the Promicro solid with solder. That's why inquired about the other boards.

 

Wondering just in case the SR bad there is no way to test it correct?

 

I'll wait till you get yours Uploaded.. Thanks for Time!

[Sokol1_br]

I think you should replace this electrolytic capacitor with ceramic type, they work in different way, a electronic technician tell me that even Tantalum capacitor have different applications than ceramic types.

[debolestis]

OK, at least it worked for a while. It seems to me like you have bad connection somewhere. I am not sure if capacitor is the problem, it is there to smooth 5v in case there is HF noise, but you can try with other dielectric types. I never solder promicro board, I use female headers. Also sockets for chips, if you are not skilled with soldering iron and apply too much heat you can damage components.

Edited May 13, 2016 by debolestis

[debolestis]

THIS for pro micro.

 

SOCKETS for chips.

 

I use this RIBBON CABLES for connections. They are precrimped. I have crimping tool but it is not easy to do it yourself, it takes a lot of practice and patience. There are 10, 20 and 30cm cables. I usually remove 1 pin headers and use THIS and THIS. I simply cut them to size that I need.

[Brewnix]

I think you should replace this electrolytic capacitor with ceramic type, they work in different way, a electronic technician tell me that even Tantalum capacitor have different applications than ceramic types.

 

Ok I can change. Wouldn't hurt to try I got to order more stuff anyways I can throw some of those too. I just bought those cause its all the local shop had and I wanted to try this out.

 

THIS for pro micro.

 

SOCKETS for chips.

 

I use this RIBBON CABLES for connections. They are precrimped. I have crimping tool but it is not easy to do it yourself, it takes a lot of practice and patience. There are 10, 20 and 30cm cables. I usually remove 1 pin headers and use THIS and THIS. I simply cut them to size that I need.

 

Ok thanks!

[zbmtwo]

TLE5010 Eagle PCB derived from github.com/mmjoy

 

I was fortunate to recently win a Cougar HOTAS on eBay, and I’m embarking on a refurbishment / mod project using MMJoy. Based on the amazing work I’ve seen around, especially debolestis’ Suncom project, I’ve started hardware design for my project.

 

I’ve created an Eagle CAD version of the MMjoy TLE5010 PCB and made it available on GitHub. I’ve also put it up on OSH Park.

 

I haven’t tested it yet, although it does appear to be electrically identical to the MMjoy version. There are no mounting holes on the PCB yet owing to the stage of development I am at (left as an exercise for the end user in Eagle or with a drill press).

 

Props also to Sokol and Mega_Mozg - I’ve recently spent much time reading your posts around the web and I am grateful to have the benefit of your experience :)

[Brewnix]

I was fortunate to recently win a Cougar HOTAS on eBay, and I’m embarking on a refurbishment / mod project using MMJoy. Based on the amazing work I’ve seen around, especially debolestis’ Suncom project, I’ve started hardware design for my project.

 

I’ve created an Eagle CAD version of the MMjoy TLE5010 PCB and made it available on GitHub. I’ve also put it up on OSH Park.

 

I haven’t tested it yet, although it does appear to be electrically identical to the MMjoy version. There are no mounting holes on the PCB yet owing to the stage of development I am at (left as an exercise for the end user in Eagle or with a drill press).

 

Props also to Sokol and Mega_Mozg - I’ve recently spent much time reading your posts around the web and I am grateful to have the benefit of your experience :)

 

Nice!

[debolestis]

Good work zmbtwo!

All parts finally arrived, I'll post results tomorrow.

[debolestis]

I assembled everything an it works!!! PCBs work individually in version with 1,2 and 3 chips, I didn't buy version with 4. Daisy chaining works, I connected all three versions together, 6 chips total and it worked.

 

I didn't have spare Leonardo board so I used one from my joystick. Daisy chain:

 

 

 

Here you can see assembled PCBs. Nice thing with shift registers is that Mmjoy2 reads button presses in order, matrix is a mess in my case. Switches are going 1 to 8 like in picture, starting from chip on the left in case of multiple chips.

 

 

I had a problem in the beginning, nothing worked and I thought I messed something up. Problem was, like in most cases a bad connection, one wire on ribbon cable was faulty. I didn't had that problem before but now I know it can happen.

 

One advice on soldering, I recommend to solder first yellow pin headers, then resistor network and then chips and other components. Soldering pads bellow yellow headers are very small and it it easier to solder them first. I didn't have 100nF capacitor so I used bigger 470nF, it worked anyway.

 

4021 chips are on sockets, you never know when you'll get a faulty chip. It is not necessary, but I started with that practice while I was building guitar pedals and sometimes chips arrived faulty, this way it was easy to replace them.

Edited August 19, 2017 by debolestis

[Sokol1_br]

:thumbup:

[Brewnix]

I assembled everything an it works!!! PCBs work individually in version with 1,2 and 3 chips, I didn't buy version with 4. Daisy chaining works, I connected all three versions together, 6 chips total and it worked.

 

I didn't have spare Leonardo board so I used one from my joystick. Daisy chain:

 

 

 

Here you can see assembled PCBs. Nice thing with shift registers is that Mmjoy2 reads button presses in order, matrix is a mess in my case. Switches are going 1 to 8 like in picture, starting from chip on the left in case of multiple chips.

 

 

I had a problem in the beginning, nothing worked and I thought I messed something up. Problem was, like in most cases a bad connection, one wire on ribbon cable was faulty. I didn't had that problem before but now I know it can happen.

 

One advice on soldering, I recommend to solder first yellow pin headers, then resistor network and then chips and other components. Soldering pads bellow yellow headers are very small and it it easier to solder them first. I didn't have 100nF capacitor so I used bigger 470nF, it worked anyway.

 

4021 chips are on sockets, you never know when you'll get a faulty chip. It is not necessary, but I started with that practice while I was building guitar pedals and sometimes chips arrived faulty, this way it was easy to replace them.

 

Nice work I like it! Clean and tidy What pots did you use for the gimbal?

[debolestis]

I have modifed CH Flightstick pro with TT electronics sensor model 6120.

 

We'll continue our work on TLE 5010 sensor and shield for pro micro. I still don't understand where all pins from TLE should be connected.

[mega_mozg_13]

TLE5010/5011---------->Controller ProMicro(AtMega32u4)

1) 4Mhz clock----------->Pin B6 - Generator 4Mhz

2) SPI-SCK-------------->Pin B1 - SPI-SCK

3) SPI-CS--------------->Any free pin

4) SPI-Data------------->Pin B3 - SPI-MISO

5) TST1----------------->To Ground

6) VDD------------------>To Power (VCC)

7) GND------------------>To Ground

8) TST2----------------->To Ground

 

all pins exept "SPI-CS" shared.

[ice_pdb]

Hello all,

I'm trying make my TM F16 FLCS + TQS meet the 21st century thanks to MMJoy.

I'd tried to convert them to USB with Mjoy16, but I had to stop it, never finishing it. Now I've found that MJoy evolved to MMJoy and it's wonderful. My only problem is that back on 2009 -2010 TH shift register board wasn't useful so I've kinda damage the board a bit, thought it was garbage at that time.

I'd like to if anybody has TM shift register pcb schematics or pcb for me to repair my board.

 

Also, sadly I found that TM FLCS has awful gimbal for hall sensors. So I'll have to make a new gimbal I guess.

 

Some questions.:

 

Is making a gimbal that makes a magnet rotate 360º good for TLE5011 using 10bits ADC?

 

How far from ADC did you try hall sensors?

 

P.S.: I'm not good at electronics, but good following tutorials. (managed to build MJoy16 board.) but it's too big for using now that MicroPro is around :D .

Edited May 20, 2016 by ice_pdb

[Brewnix]

Hello all,

I'm trying make my TM F16 FLCS + TQS meet the 21st century thanks to MMJoy.

I'd tried to convert them to USB with Mjoy16, but I had to stop it, never finishing it. Now I've found that MJoy evolved to MMJoy and it's wonderful. My only problem is that back on 2009 -2010 TH shift register board wasn't useful so I've kinda damage the board a bit, thought it was garbage at that time.

I'd like to if anybody has TM shift register pcb schematics or pcb for me to repair my board.

 

Also, sadly I found that TM FLCS has awful gimbal for hall sensors. So I'll have to make a new gimbal I guess.

 

Some questions.:

 

Is making a gimbal that makes a magnet rotate 360º good for TLE5011 using 10bits ADC?

 

How far from ADC did you try hall sensors?

 

P.S.: I'm not good at electronics, but good following tutorials. (managed to build MJoy16 board.) but it's too big for using now that MicroPro is around :D .

 

Ya I had bought a TM F15 flight stick and wanted to use the handle for a custom stick I am still working on and its got the ball pivot type with slide pots.

I found as per Sokol1 and if you look at the picture above Debolestis has a gimbal with converted sensor type pots looking piece. Like this one.

http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/model-6120/24400

looks almost like it pops right in there. But this stick has same gimbal as one in the pic.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thrustmaster-Flight-Control-System-Mark-II-FCS-Joystick-Controller-F4E-F16-A6/231930300999?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D777000%26algo%3DABA.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36465%26meid%3D9cd1c34f639147218081dd290655014e%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D162065319607

 

I have it apart now messing around with hallsensors but it would be a complete redesign. Ill post a complete pic of gimbal apart to show or if one of the other guys have a full pic.

[ice_pdb]

Ya I had bought a TM F15 flight stick and wanted to use the handle for a custom stick I am still working on and its got the ball pivot type with slide pots.

I found as per Sokol1 and if you look at the picture above Debolestis has a gimbal with converted sensor type pots looking piece. Like this one.

http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/model-6120/24400

looks almost like it pops right in there. But this stick has same gimbal as one in the pic.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thrustmaster-Flight-Control-System-Mark-II-FCS-Joystick-Controller-F4E-F16-A6/231930300999?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D777000%26algo%3DABA.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36465%26meid%3D9cd1c34f639147218081dd290655014e%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D162065319607

 

I have it apart now messing around with hallsensors but it would be a complete redesign. Ill post a complete pic of gimbal apart to show or if one of the other guys have a full pic.

 

Thank you for the information!! I'll try start designing my gimbal, if I get some free time.

It would be great to have some pictures of your gimbal, will make things smoother for me.

About those hall pots, they are too expensive to me. But it's true, that one with 60° is very nice

[Sokol1_br]

Ice_pdb

 

Make a gimbal DIY is not a easy task if you dont have some advanced machine tools, at least a fixed press drill.

 

Maybe will be more easy and effective take a existent joystick gimbal - with reasonable quality - and improve then with ball bearings.

 

For sensor the most affordable solution is TLE50x - that you can buy from China through eBay with free shipping. E.g. Aliexpress.

 

This will require use Arduino+MMJoy2 as USB controller, since they work in digital mode, too affordable in same sources.

 

As you live in Argentina I understand what this 18.38$ of Bi-Tech 6120 + shipping will really cost. :(

[Brewnix]

ok SO here the pic of the stick I bought. technically is came with 2 pots that has the shaft of the pots goes thru the pivot points of the gimbal is 7/8" long. I would believe the CH product joystick might be better even using a new standard pots with shorter shaft might work better then one I got. I have made attempt to place a hall sensor and 2 magnets around hall sensor, in MMJoy2 it did pick it up the movement and made one axis work calibrate in windows. I wonder what distance is optimal for the the magnets around the hall sensors? The sensor and common metal parts I had lying around and super glue. What I did was took apart the original pots kept the shaft and the wiper base mounted to it. I used a 1" square tubing cut it in half and to length, drilled a whole placed and super glued it to the back of old pots holder and shaft. then I place 2 magnets on the inside. it worked, didn't try it in game. only in windows. I am still in planning stages. I am thinking of back tracking and trying the sensors Debolestis. My design works with the superglue but I have had to glue it twice. Its strong by its self but in working on it mounting the sensor I knock angle piece off.

 

 

 

Edited May 23, 2016 by Brewnix

[Brewnix]

Ice_pdb

 

Make a gimbal DIY is not a easy task if you dont have some advanced machine tools, at least a fixed press drill.

 

Maybe will be more easy and effective take a existent joystick gimbal - with reasonable quality - and improve then with ball bearings.

 

For sensor the most affordable solution is TLE50x - that you can buy from China through eBay with free shipping. E.g. Aliexpress.

 

This will require use Arduino+MMJoy2 as USB controller, since they work in digital mode, too affordable in same sources.

 

As you live in Argentina I understand what this 18.38$ of Bi-Tech 6120 + shipping will really cost. :(

Sokol1 was wondering this sensor TLE50xx, I found on OSHpark a shield for TLE5010 someone just posted.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dB6LPj8O

Is this a sensor that reads both axis? my pic above are a semi failed attempt to use hall sensors. wonder which ones better? I am still planning my route. Thanks for all your help.

Edited May 23, 2016 by Brewnix

[Sokol1_br]

You need one TLE5010/11 for each axis. This OSHpark PCB is somewhat outdated as 4 resistor is no more needed, but OK to use.

 

TLE50x is a GMR (giant manetoresistance) sensor, that for joystick purposes can be more precise and easy to install than HALL sensor. GMR is used in automotive industry.

 

About the gimbal of Tm FCS Mk.II, is basically the same design use in CH Gimbals, R/C controllers, early Tm, early VKB's...

 

In this kind of gimbal the pot axis is part of the mechanism, if you remove the pot the gimbal fall apart, at least in CH gimbal.

 

So you need keep the pot axis, or replace the with a metal pin with same diameter and D recess if used (is used in CH gimbal).

 

Use this axis as support for magnet and place the sensor in front. Sample in CH gimbal, with "Bic HALL" - the pot axis have a small Bic pen section placed over - need use lathe to reduce axis diameter for fit - for support two magnets, the SS495A1 HALL sensor support is placed in front with the sensor between the two magnets.

 

image hosting over 10mb

 

If you will use TLE501x fit ring magnets - diametrically magnetized - in the axis tip.

 

If not difficult try install ball bearings to reduce axis play - contactless sensors register very small movements, even unwanted ones.

Edited May 23, 2016 by Sokol1_br