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Sokol1_br
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You did the flash right, so you see the "MMJ-Reset" that is a blank(empty) joystick controller without axes and buttons.

 

Now you need use MMJoySetup software and set how many axes will use (pedal is typically 3) and 0 buttons, can set too custom name, custom VID/PID, after hit "save settings for device", and after reboot - see the LED on MMjoySetup changing color, your new controller became visible in Windows Game Controllers and games.

 

If will use ordinary Hall sensor in analog (voltage variation) mode, select "IntSensor" in source.

 

Set too what pins in Arduino will use for axes inputs.

 

See in this video:

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You did the flash right, so you see the "MMJ-Reset" that is a blank(empty) joystick controller without axes and buttons.

 

Now you need use MMJoySetup software and set how many axes will use (pedal is typically 3) and 0 buttons, can set too custom name, custom VID/PID, after hit "save settings for device", and after reboot - see the LED on MMjoySetup changing color, your new controller became visible in Windows Game Controllers and games.

 

If will use ordinary Hall sensor in analog (voltage variation) mode, select "IntSensor" in source.

 

Set too what pins in Arduino will use for axes inputs.

 

See in this video:

 

AH thanks, i could get the joystick under windows devices , but the sensor does nothing if i use the magnet , the same sensors work on the logitech connector but it's spiking.

 

Think i burnt the MH 481 sensors on the Pro Micro :cry:

 

The MH 481 has VCC Data GND

 

The Allegro 3144 has VCC GND Data

 

Yes these are not the standard sensors used by many. The MH 481 had worked when i tried it long back but then i had no time and with this lock down thought retrying it.

 

Gonna tinker some more.

 

 

Connected a Pot but even with it there is no axis movement and i have setup the axis for it , the same pot works on the mega , i have two pro micros and the result is the same , so hall sensor and even with the pot its not working.

 

 

 

The LED on the Pro Micro remains GREEN even after rebooting / unplugging it doesn't change. Also tried a toggle switch but even that is not working.


Edited by humptydumpty

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Wing Commander SWAC

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@Sokol1_br

 

 

 

Here

 

https://ibb.co/ZxrBT5G

 

 

I have flashed using the latest MMJoy2 from sites.google.com

 

 

 

in Devices it will show the device but the axis won't move.

 

 

 

I have A3 for the sensor and also the pots

 

 

Only have assigned one axis right now for testing.

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Attitude Power Trim Power Attitude Trim

 

Wing Commander SWAC

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The status still "MJ-reset" (blank), hit the button "Save settings to device" and after LED blink do a "hard" reset, unplug and plug USB cable.

 

 

Hi,

 

 

 

I have already done "Save settings to device" and did it again but the LED does not blink. It's the same on both the Pro Micros.

 

 

Also unplugged and plugged it in.

 

 

This what i see in Devices and Printers

 

 

 

https://ibb.co/rxPNk1m

 

 

That Axis just doesn't move, gave VCC / GND / Data to the right pins on the pots and also on the sensor , the Data pin i used on the Micro is A3

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Attitude Power Trim Power Attitude Trim

 

Wing Commander SWAC

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What is strange is that in MMjoySetup the USB name are "MMJOY" in your picture:

 

https://i.ibb.co/RcK3HfY/Untitled.png

 

So Windows don't should see as 'MMJ-reset" anymore.

 

BTW - In MMjoySetup you can't use Arduino pins codes, but the equivalent set in firmware:

 

https://i.ibb.co/RcK3HfY/Untitled.png

 

So in MCPU Port instead "A3" select "F4".

 

 

U r a genius :) thanks, it worked. :thumbup: Have a beer or two :)

 

 

 

The MH 481 sensor seems stable , the Allegro 3144 keeps jumping.

 

 

 

Now i just need to figure out how to connect it to the pedals :) all home made.

 

 

 

Think i will use a ball bearing and stick it and put the sensor in the center so only the outer portion of the bearing will move where the magnets will be connected.

 

 

M trying to make an anti torque pedals for the helis. Could be good also for the fixed wings.

 

 

Would love to do a similar thing for the cyclic , for the cyclic i am using an arduino R3 with the MPU 6050 , though for the helis its perfect but it needs to be calibrated all the time.

 

 

Will do the same for the collective , the collective is using a Mega with a pot though its very stable but i can then use the R3 and the Mega for something else.

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Attitude Power Trim Power Attitude Trim

 

Wing Commander SWAC

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Try decreasing/increasing distanced of sensor for magnet and/or increasing filter value.

 

The Allegro 3144 jumps around even without a magnet , but i will try what you said.

 

Thanks again.

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Attitude Power Trim Power Attitude Trim

 

Wing Commander SWAC

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*edit

Got it to work I had the MISO and CS switched up.

So in case anybody else is looking for a solution to a TLE5010 not sending signal to MMJOY.

Make sure you use the correct datasheet to look at your pinouts and not go blindly with somebody's else's build.


Edited by talmin
Found the answer to my question.
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Can i use (with mmjoy2) sensor TLE5010 instead of TLE5011? What are the diferences? I am asking because sensor TLE5010 is way cheaper than TLE5011.

 

 

I used the TLE5010 and it seems to work just fine(however still haven't finished the project so haven't flown with it yet) But I know a couple people that used the 5010 and prefer it over the HALL sensors that they used to use.

I believe the 5011 is just a newer version of the same chip/sensor but I am most likely wrong about that.

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Great piece of software, appreciate all the work. However I have a question about a encoder I'm trying to use with this. It's a type 2, 1/2 cycle per detent.

 

8S3YLpe.jpg

 

Both outputs A and B have a closed state in one fixed position and an open state in the next position alternately.

 

 

The problem I'm having is that MMJOY only detects every other click, so it's skips a click. Any ideas, I checked my wiring and it seems correct.

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  • 1 month later...

As per request I have just added a few MMJoy2 TLE5011 / TLE5010 sensor PCB options to OSH Park free to use for all you DIY guys. Type B and C have the same borehole spacing as GVL MagRez and RAMS sensors. smile.gif

 

v2: 30mm borehole distance, 2.54mm pitch header pin connector

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/DSH0FhMU

ver B: 34,4mm borehole distance, 2.54mm pitch header pin connector

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/QlLrcnAk

ver C: 34,4mm borehole distance, 1.25mm pitch connector

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/z9ofDZsD

  • Like 1

Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

 

Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming

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  • 1 month later...

Cant update firmware

 

Hi; I have been trying to upload the firmware to a Arduino Leonardo board, followed the guide, forced the drivers to be recognized as arduino leonardo or arduino leonardo bootloader, reset, upload firmware, but it gets stuck in "connecting to programmer: . _ "

 

 

I have tried everything that could come to my mind. I always get that result.

ZbkS4N9

 

 

https://imgur.com/ZbkS4N9

ZbkS4N9


Edited by edurigon
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You have set the wrong COM port. When you reset the Arduino it will show the bootloader COM port. Thats the one you need to enter in the (green) COM port window.

Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

 

Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming

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You have set the wrong COM port. When you reset the Arduino it will show the bootloader COM port. Thats the one you need to enter in the (green) COM port window.

 

 

Thanks for the response! I think I have it right, I quickly check wich one appears in the device manager and check that is the same in the "green box"

 

 

Can it be not founding avrdude.exe or something alike?

 

https://imgur.com/Nomf4cz

 

Sorry if it sounds silly, or poorly redacted, I am not programmer, neither am an english native speaker. thanks!


Edited by edurigon
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Thanks for the response! I think I have it right, I quickly check wich one appears in the device manager and check that is the same in the "green box"

 

 

Can it be not founding avrdude.exe or something alike?

 

https://imgur.com/Nomf4cz

 

Sorry if it sounds silly, or poorly redacted, I am not programmer, neither am an english native speaker. thanks!

 

This is OK, you have Arduino connected with computer using COM3.

 

But Arduino bootloader port is not COM3, is ab new port that open only for 8 seconds when you short Reset pin to Ground pin twice (fast).

 

Tick the "Start load firmware..." for don't loose the "window".

 

https://www.geneb.org/mmjoy2/pro-micro-instructions.pdf

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This is OK, you have Arduino connected with computer using COM3.

 

But Arduino bootloader port is not COM3, is ab new port that open only for 8 seconds when you short Reset pin to Ground pin twice (fast).

 

Tick the "Start load firmware..." for don't loose the "window".

 

https://www.geneb.org/mmjoy2/pro-micro-instructions.pdf

 

 

I did it really fast... like 50 times. I even tried in russsian, always the same result. Tried on w10, w7,forcing drivers, diferents pcs, no antivirus, trial mode, you name it...

 

 

 

Eventually fond THIS https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinodev/files/ArduinoBuilder/FreematicsArduinoBuilder-1.0.13-win32.exe/download

 

 

With it I was able to upload the hex file. I´ve tried X-loader first and it wouldnt work either. I think im having some funny interaction or something, it can be that I wasn´t able to google someone with some similar problem.

 

 

Thanks for the response! Im gonna go now to have some new problems configuring those allegro sensors! :megalol:

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Your correct COM port was probably COM4. You can try that next time. It usually is one higher than displayed in the manager.

Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

 

Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming

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Alrighty then. I finished building my new pedals, The valkyrie rudder pedals from thingiverse. Unfortunately, I'm now stuck. I have the board set up with MMJOY2, using the Leonardo. I set the x axis to F7, or A0 on the board. I get a fluctuating number, but moving the sensor doesn't have any effect. Any ideas other than buying a bodnar board and being done with it?

 

EDIT: Tested a toe brake. That one registers properly.... mostly. It sits high, like ouput says 971. When I push the brake, it increase to 1000 then resets to 0 and starts count up again from there. Releasing the pedal goes back to zero/1000 and down the 971. The main sensor doesn't do this. It may be a bad sensor..... Or I'm just horrible at building crap lol

 

EDIT 2: Looking at the sensor in windows joystick properties shows it starts in one corner, then jumps to the other corner. There isn't any in between. Using this sensor: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=6127V1A360L.5FS

 

Still looking for ideas.


Edited by skygunner58203
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Any ideas other than buying a bodnar board and being done with it?

 

FreeJoy project. I've switched to it from MMJoy2 (which is very good) for my own projects. More flexible, works with the same sensor types as MMJoy, much more user-friendly configurator software, well-documented. Constantly evolves based on community feedback, but is 100% stable already now. The board (STM-32 based) is as cheap as ProMicro.

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