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Starting to pull out hair...


MacFevre
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...When that doesn't work, I very slowly try and burn each follicle out with the soldering iron. What stage exactly am I in in pit insanity? Here's my real problem. Right now I have a Leo bodnar X board that I was going to use for front panels. I have a Brydling board I was going to use for the rest, except for CDU, and UFC. Those plus the Phil's led board for caution panel, were going to have their own panels attached.

 

My insanity started ramping up when I had trouble deciding how to physically connect the panels to the controllers. And, more importantly where to get it at. Thought about each panel having its own breakout board, but the prices of them are rediculous! $35-$40 just for a bunch of screw posts and a connector? That'll add up quick. I even thought of using a bunch of RJ45 Ethernet jacks and cable to make a bunch of 8 pin connector cables to run through the pit. Or, I could try the Aurduino method and have one per panel, but then I heard they only had like 7 digital inputs. Wouldn't help, the way I'm looking at it anyway.

 

Anyway, still looking for advice in actual physical hookup s. I'm guessing with the Brydling I need to solder a diode to each switch. Still don't know how that's going to work. The underside of people's panels aren't talked about a lot. Only how pretty they are. So if anyone has pictures of the belly of their beast, showing how their cards are being hooked together, then hooked to their cards, and original or uncommon ways, etc. love to to find a discussion on cabling or the like.

 

Thanks

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

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Hi MacFevre,

 

I made my own break out boards for Brydlings board. It is done using prototype strip PCB (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Prototype-PCB-Stripboard-Printed-Circuit-Board-Strip-Vero-Board-/180801244395?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item2a18980ceb)

 

Then I found some screw terminal connectors here (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-8-Poles-2-54mm-0-1-PCB-Universal-Screw-Terminal-Block-/130677915110?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6d02bde6)

 

The 40 pin connector is something like this, I think I purchased mine locally in DK though (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC-Computer-PCB-Mount-40-Pin-Male-IDE-Ribbon-Connector-/290930403810?pt=UK_Computing_Other_Computing_Networking&hash=item43bccda9e2)

 

The it is just flat ribbon cable e.g. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-5M-40-WAY-Flat-Color-Rainbow-Ribbon-Cable-Wire-Rainbow-Cable-/221120647455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337bd1511f) and diodes 1N4148 as described by Brydling e.g. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/All-Rectifier-Bridge-Small-Signal-Rectifier-Diodes-1N4-KBU6-KBPC-GBPC-/200737932079?var=&hash=item746d81405c)

 

I have hooked almost everythin up against the Brydling card, only using BU0836x and DDI-32 for special applications such as rotary encoders. I have the Phidgets LED card also.

 

I have attached my list of which connectors on the Bydling card I used for which panels.

 

Hope this was of some assistance :music_whistling:

 

Cheers

Hans

IMG_2932.thumb.JPG.ee967bcce81356c2cd21511ae3e16313.JPG

IMG_2933.thumb.JPG.ce14358468847417511aa39e1e5048ae.JPG

B256A13 setup in cockpit.pdf


Edited by Hansolo
Setup attached
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You sir, are magnificent! Truly, this is exactly the information I was looking for. Thank you very much. It has been of great assistance, and if I could bump up your rep more than one, I surely would.

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

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All you need for breakouts is the socket itself. You can easily solder ribbon cable to it and it only will cost you 30 cents or so per breakout. It is a lot easier to wire when you put the diodes of the switches too.

 

It is great fun to put things together, but a simple wire job will work just as well as a complicated setup for a cockpit. Ribbon cable is the only way to go when you have a lot of switches. I have hundreds and hundreds of them.

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  • 8 months later...

Very nicely done! Now you don't even need a breakout board on the Brydling end! The more I think about it, I'm thinking maybe I'll try something similar. (Instead of using the RJ45 method.) I know that's very much like what Hans had done, but I never put the two things together for the 40 pins. Thanks for waking me up! :thumbup:


Edited by MacFevre

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

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  • 3 weeks later...

Steve, the actual ribbon cables and their connectors are all just a crimp type connector. You kind of press the cable into the connector which is similar to an Ethernet plug connector. The board side is just regular header pins in a box shroud.

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

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Steve, the actual ribbon cables and their connectors are all just a crimp type connector. You kind of press the cable into the connector which is similar to an Ethernet plug connector. The board side is just regular header pins in a box shroud.

 

Actually use a small vice to press the cable and connector. you need to apply firm even pressure. Tighten the vice slowly but not too hard or you split the clamp part of the connector. Just enough for the clamp to snap into place.

 

Its by far the quickest way to make a cable.

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You have one major problem with ribbon cable lack of shielding .

If you have done some research on other forms you will find that guys that have used ribbon cable have had problems that were solved with shielded cable ( Just a thought)

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Cabling could be a hazard and nowadays I have limited amount of hair to pull :-)

 

I use 40 pins IDCs same as Brydlings card (opencockpits in my case) and crimp cables as needed. Several ports connects many 'break-out' cards with total length up to 1.5 meter per cable.

So far I haven't seen any odd interference but time will tell as it grows. Had a bit of worry of how the MagSwitches would affect on coil release but so far it's ok.

If I get interferance I probably will isolate the source/distribution system of that instead of rest of the system (in theory)

 

Crimping the contacts IS very delicate as DC says. To hard and the lowcost parts I got brakes and too gentle it's risk of bad contact. With the rough tools I got say 10% breakes when crimping. On the other hand the cost is minimal and cables are made fast. Got lucky and found a huge amount of ribbon cables some years ago (5 x 90 yards spools) for allmost nothing.

 

Pic shows current state of underneath rightside panel.Looks like a ratnest but allows to utilize each portgroup the most

IMG_1085.JPG.5f9d1c6f06c91a1086fb61ad93935485.JPG

- - - -

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You have one major problem with ribbon cable lack of shielding .

If you have done some research on other forms you will find that guys that have used ribbon cable have had problems that were solved with shielded cable ( Just a thought)

 

If youre running a lot of power adaptors near the cables yeah i can why that might happen. Always a good idea to seperate power and data cables if you can do it.

 

Alternatively you can get shielded ribbon cable or you can buy shielding for ribbon cable if you want the flat profile. Always ways to achieve what you want. Theres a tape you can buy that you can wrap the cable in, matt black if memory recalls.

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Well it's nice to know that the pull of the pit can overcome the pull of the, well, let's say they both can be a powerful pull! :D Don't have too much fun or you won't want to come back. :) never mind, have as much of a good time as you can!!

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

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Actualy i think ive had too much of this holiday, only so much sun you can soak up before you get a little bored. Last couple of days ive been on the laptop cranking out code, the Mrs asked me this morning "are you bored by chance?". I didnt have to respond, the look i gave her said it all.

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