Greasing up the Warthog

[MacFevre]

I've got a Cougar that I'm currently putting new Gimbals into. I'm going to try Slip 2000 Extreme Weapons Grease. It's a ca poly that supposed to be plastics safe. I've done a lot of checking, and it was between that or the molykote cl20(?) Amazon had both, but I was able to get the EWG sooner. It's a lot better than just a lithium or a simple silicone. Just my 2¢

[marluk]

I've got a Cougar that I'm currently putting new Gimbals into. I'm going to try Slip 2000 Extreme Weapons Grease. It's a ca poly that supposed to be plastics safe. I've done a lot of checking, and it was between that or the molykote cl20(?) Amazon had both, but I was able to get the EWG sooner. It's a lot better than just a lithium or a simple silicone. Just my 2¢

 

MacFevre, thank you for reply! I suppose that my current grease is lithium based. Please let me know your impressions with EWG. If that will work ok for you i would order it over Amazon too.

Thanks.

[wingclip]

Hi Folks, I've only read the first page of posts on this subject and it appears to be part of what I need to know. I'm a 23+ year retired job shop machinist and disassembling, clean and greasing is no problem.

 

But before I start, I always like to get as much insight on things as I can. In my case, I'm almost sure that I have a worn ring because the stick just won't stay in center. I'm not expecting "perfect center" but it's getting worse in both, X & Y axis's.

 

I need to study these pics a little closer but upon first look, I don't see any "thin, .090 ring" that I've read back when warthogworld.com was still an active site. I've already noted the grease and will order it, (though your eBay link goes to a "DOW MOLYKOTE 44 Silicone High Temp Bearing Grease Lube", and that's different than the "Dow Corning Molykote EM-30L Synthetic Grease Lubricant").

 

What about this "ring" that I read about last year in the warthogworld.com site? Maybe I'm remembering it wrong. Perhaps they were suggesting adding a PTFE ring? :.090" in thickness and 2.125" ID x 2.520" OD (for those into the metric system: .23cm thick by 54mm ID x 64mm OD).

 

Anyway, thanks for the info and if anyone knows anything more about this ring, would you throw in a few words to help remind me what it was all about.

Rich

[cichlidfan]

This gentleman makes the PTFE ring.

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1849617&postcount=10

 

 

EDIT: The beginning of that thread shows the ring in question.

Edited March 20, 2014 by cichlidfan

[marluk]

... I've already noted the grease and will order it, (though your eBay link goes to a "DOW MOLYKOTE 44 Silicone High Temp Bearing Grease Lube", and that's different than the "Dow Corning Molykote EM-30L Synthetic Grease Lubricant").

...

Rich

 

Hi wingclip!

Ronin said that he had tried with silicone grease and found that was too thin. Apparently, it lubricates ok but lasts too short because it slips away under pressure.

Here is his popular video about greasing warthog:

 

Please share your experience with MOLYKOTE 44 on this thread because it is available for ordering and price is ok. So, I'm rooting for you :thumbup:

 

Thanks!

Edited March 21, 2014 by marluk

[AbortedMan]

I'd like to chime in here and add my 2 cents...

 

I disassembled and re-greased my Warthog this Memorial weekend (twice, thought I put too much grease the first time, so cleaned and re-applied) and could not, for the life of me, find any silicone grease or M-kote 30ML in the city of Seattle where I live...I was itching to do this project and REALLY didn't want to wait for ordering the grease in the mail, so I did some research and found Lucas White Lithium Grease was being used for similar applications. It's white, has the texture of cold sour cream, and is odorless. It's NLGI #2 so I guess pretty close in viscosity to what Ronin was using in his video...though upon further research, I'm seeing people reference that some white lithium greases are not plastic safe, which is kinda scaring me now.

 

Action on the stick is smoother than ever after sanding down the pegs and holes that hold the half-sphere in as instructed in Ronin's video...which is what made the most difference, I think. A quick warning to anyone about to try this, be very careful you don't put too much pressure on the wires while removing the pegs that hold the ball in...they get in the way very easily and can get smashed/severed/exposed without notice. I completely removed the rubber ring since it was an absolute wreck when I opened up the stick. I don't know what purpose that thing serves.

 

As I said, no stiction at all anymore. I do feel like the center-most 80% of play on the stick has great motion, but the outer 20% feels..."squishier" than before...as if I there is a soft padded "dampening" effect on the edges of the control limits. Not sure what is causing this, if it was already there before I disassembled (and it's just placebo that I feel it now), or if it's because I removed the rubber ring and it's affecting the action. In any case, I'll be hunting that guy that is making replacement rings.

 

If anyone has similar experience, I'd like to know...also like to know if anyone has any objections to white lithium grease for this sort of application (and if I should be speeding home from work to clean it off ASAP as to prevent my stick's guts from turning to mush)...how long would it take for a plastic-volatile grease to start affecting our Warthog, anyway?

[Wichid]

I'd like to chime in here and add my 2 cents...

 

I disassembled and re-greased my Warthog this Memorial weekend (twice, thought I put too much grease the first time, so cleaned and re-applied) and could not, for the life of me, find any silicone grease or M-kote 30ML in the city of Seattle where I live...I was itching to do this project and REALLY didn't want to wait for ordering the grease in the mail, so I did some research and found Lucas White Lithium Grease was being used for similar applications. It's white, has the texture of cold sour cream, and is odorless. It's NLGI #2 so I guess pretty close in viscosity to what Ronin was using in his video...though upon further research, I'm seeing people reference that some white lithium greases are not plastic safe, which is kinda scaring me now.

 

Action on the stick is smoother than ever after sanding down the pegs and holes that hold the half-sphere in as instructed in Ronin's video...which is what made the most difference, I think. A quick warning to anyone about to try this, be very careful you don't put too much pressure on the wires while removing the pegs that hold the ball in...they get in the way very easily and can get smashed/severed/exposed without notice. I completely removed the rubber ring since it was an absolute wreck when I opened up the stick. I don't know what purpose that thing serves.

 

As I said, no stiction at all anymore. I do feel like the center-most 80% of play on the stick has great motion, but the outer 20% feels..."squishier" than before...as if I there is a soft padded "dampening" effect on the edges of the control limits. Not sure what is causing this, if it was already there before I disassembled (and it's just placebo that I feel it now), or if it's because I removed the rubber ring and it's affecting the action. In any case, I'll be hunting that guy that is making replacement rings.

 

If anyone has similar experience, I'd like to know...also like to know if anyone has any objections to white lithium grease for this sort of application (and if I should be speeding home from work to clean it off ASAP as to prevent my stick's guts from turning to mush)...how long would it take for a plastic-volatile grease to start affecting our Warthog, anyway?

 

Lithium should be fine, generally i think you want to stay away from the smelly petroleum based stuff like WD-40. Here's a link: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16267

[Hempstead]

In any case, I'll be hunting that guy that is making replacement rings.

 

 

The funny thing is that you went to Russia to hunt for the man who is about 15 miles away from you. Such is the Internet. :smilewink:

[Wichid]

Okay I've disassembled and re-greased up my warthog. I've had it a couple of years at least and I remember early on not being happy about the stickion. If I tried to move it a mm in each direction it would jerk to motion and then be easily moveable once in motion. Now it's smoother.

 

I'm not very happy with the over power of the centering spring and I've ordered a 12.5cm extension as I can't make my own. I'd prefer if the stick would just stay where I leave it with no centering at all so I'll see how it goes and may modify the spring to suit. This is mostly because I fly helicopters right now.

 

I'm wondering about this O ring that people mention that appears in videos to be a removeable rubber washer or something. I dont have that, so the design may have changed slightly over the years.

[Hempstead]

 

I'm wondering about this O ring that people mention that appears in videos to be a removeable rubber washer or something. I dont have that, so the design may have changed slightly over the years.

 

Really? That'd be interesting to see. Would you mind posting a picture of it? Let's just make sure it's not the Chinese workers omitted the rubber ring, which would cause wear of the ABS plastic rubbing against the steel plate.

 

If true that TM has changed the design without the rubber ring, I'd be glad to get out of this making PTFE ring thing eventually. ;-)

[xxJohnxx]

Would also be nice to know the serial number of your TM Warthog set Wichid. That would allow us to compare! :)

[ENO]

How are you guys getting those little "holding" pins out to separate the stick from the base? I got down to about that far trying to resolve another issue and thought I'd try it out- but I started getting a bit too rammy for my own liking and chickened out.

 

Do you guys use a particular technique?

[Gh0st007]

Hi Fuzzsham

 

I felt the same way, so I only wiped the old grease off with a rag and didn't take water anywhere near it.

 

Then I put loads of grease in the joint, ball, spring, and the 4 posts with little springs, and the top of the ball that touches against where the stick exits.

 

It is a big improvement. Don't worry you don't need to be so thorough just do what you are comfortable with and be careful not to pinch the wire.

 

Agreed! with both of you plus I did the same. But I also used this spray called (Inox) works perfectly, with trigger mecs to - but we won't speak of that :P I thought hell since I was servicing my joystick why not my throttle and so I did.

Edited July 4, 2014 by Gh0st007

[marluk]

How are you guys getting those little "holding" pins out to separate the stick from the base? I got down to about that far trying to resolve another issue and thought I'd try it out- but I started getting a bit too rammy for my own liking and chickened out.

 

Do you guys use a particular technique?

 

Hi Eno,

 

I'm using allan key that has one side little bit longer than distance between pin and opposite wall.

Using opposite side as lever support just push the pin out.

 

First time it goes little bit harder, next time will be easier.

Just take care not to damage wire. Good luck :thumbup:

[kk0425]

Hi. I removed all the old grease from mine and used M-kote EM-30L as a replacement. However I'm not seeing much of a difference with the sticktion. Any ideas?

[marluk]

Hi. I removed all the old grease from mine and used M-kote EM-30L as a replacement. However I'm not seeing much of a difference with the sticktion. Any ideas?

 

Hi,

 

I'm using some grease that does not have clear specification what is inside. So, learning about greases, I started to realize that it will be very good if I change that grease asap. I'll try with M-kote grease too.

According the greasing video from Ronin (

), grease should have at least grade #2 consistency (NLGI number). I think that EM-30L is only #1. So it is too thin.

I will try with M-kote 44M which is also silicone based, good for plastic and has NLGI #2 consistency.

 

If somebody have experience with M-kote 44M, please share with us.

 

Thanks.

Edited July 25, 2014 by marluk

[kk0425]

Thanks for your help. I don't know much about grease.

[Scoggs]

Has anyone tried the Molykote 44? It is the onaly grease referenced that I can find that is still for sale. Really want to fix the sticktion. Thanks for the help!

[Hans-Joachim Marseille]

Just take care not to damage wire ...

Enter trusty soldering iron. See post #89. Be wary during the re-assembly process.

Like mountain climbing, the dangers lie on the way back.

 

Taking out the pegs is easy once you know what you're dealing with. Each peg has a small indent (on the inside of the ball).

You'll be able to feel it when you feel with the ball-end of an Allen-key. Leaving the ball-end on the indent, tap the peg from inside of the ball to outside for it to pop out.

Like mentioned before, move the wires well out of the way. I also took the Hall-sensor out from the bottom, to see what I'm doing and get more clearance by disconnecting the wires.

 

Don't use kitchenpaper to clean the red TM grease off like I did, as it creates a lot of dust and fibers that you then need to clean off again.

 

I used Äronix Siliconenfett to lube mine :D

 

Edited August 19, 2014 by Hans-Joachim Marseille

[Berndt Mangler]

Has anyone tried the Molykote 44? It is the onaly grease referenced that I can find that is still for sale. Really want to fix the sticktion. Thanks for the help!

 

It's what I'm using, about 3 weeks now and seems fine, I had issues with the presser plate, I had not any issues with stiction, so I don't really notice any change. so I guess that's a good thing??? I think I paid 8 dollars for a small jar, it doesn't take much at all this smallest of jars is more than plenty.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DOW-MOLYKOTE-EM-30L-Synthetic-PAO-Grease-for-Plastics-/270666662674

Edited August 17, 2014 by spokejocky
Opps, not selling right now, but thats size is plenty

[Scoggs]

Bought the tube of the medium stuff off if amazon. Will probably do it this weekend so I don't rush.

 

Thanks for the insight!

[johnv2pt0]

I took it apart, sanded the rough spots, greased it up with Molykote 44 medium, and boy what a difference. Just did it today, but if I see any problems over time, I'll repost here.

 

It's like a whole new experience...very nice.

[CookPassBabtridge]

Hi chaps

is there any way to get the grease into the ball without full disassembly? My stick is only a few months old and TM have politely bellowed that disassembling the ball = the mighty wrath of warranty invalidation.

 

Its hard to find the stuff for sale that wont need shipping from US to UK. I found these guys http://www.univarsc.com/plist/Molykote--44-High-Temperature-Bearing-Grease,-Medium/44ME180 but you can only buy a pack of 10.

[Corrigan]

Properly? No. You can poke some grease in, and it might be better than nothing, but I dunno if I'd recommend applying the good grease when the bad, stock grease is still there. Not cleaning it properly before might be asking for trouble.

[CookPassBabtridge]

Properly? No. You can poke some grease in, and it might be better than nothing, but I dunno if I'd recommend applying the good grease when the bad, stock grease is still there. Not cleaning it properly before might be asking for trouble.

 

I take your point, but unfortunately this was the mail I got from TM on the issue:

 

We thank you for your choice of Thrustmaster products and for reaching us regarding your issue.

Please follow the indications from the attached .pdf file and check the status and position of the pressure ring (and of the gasket stuck to it.

If they are in order try also applying some additional grease (if needed only, without removing the sphere from the unit - this will void the warranty).

If you see any damages on the pressure ring or the gasket please take a picture of them and send them to us by replying to this email. To your answer please add also a copy of the invoice and the serial number of the joystick unit - listed on the sticker placed at the end of the USB cable.

We are looking forward to your answer.

 

They also sent me the attached document. If my stick was out of warranty I would gladly prise it open and do the full sanding mod, but its a few months old :( I shall have to make do I guess

Warthog_pressure_ring_check_EN.pdf