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Post MotherBoard Specs Of Bricked TM Warthogs Here Please


twobells
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On 10/4/2020 at 10:49 AM, Osita said:

 

 

Wow... is there no warranty for this stuff?

Yes, there is warranty, until it runs out.  Yes it still can happen.

One of these days if I get enough time I might start selling something to fix the issue.   I have already started plans on it and done work but it's not a top priority because right now TM are still providing warranty services and do sell replacements (usually slowly) if your warranty is out.  And the replacement is not the cost of a new throttle.  (and of course I offer the repair service for less)

 

If shit hits the fan I will be there (and was when TM closed doors due to COVID for a bit).

 


Edited by bn880

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Another dead Warthog Throttle here it seems, to say that I am pissed is an understatement.

 

I wont go through the hassle of getting another error-prone PCB from TM, but I am rather thinking about rewiring the whole internals to an Arduino (or multiple if necessary) using the Arduino Joystick Library. In the end its all just switches and potentiometers, right? I am still researching before actually pulling the trigger and wanted to check if anybody here has some wiring diagrams or other Info of the throttle? Or anybody with more experience sees some blockers for this project?


Edited by HannesMy
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  • 1 month later...

Good info so far and thanks for keeping this thread alive. After years of play with a powered USB hub, I finished a flight and noticed something was wrong with my stick TMS Up button in the F-16 despite checking button bindings. Decided to fire up TARGET for some reason even though I never use it. Found out my stick FW was out of date as well as the TARGET software. Off to the TM site to download both. During the FW update to the stick, somehow my throttle got flashed. Working through the "bootleg method" and firing up an old ASUS gaming laptop to see if I can push the throttle firmware there. Combo has worked for years, and I even managed to not pinch any wires during the mini-stick update to the throttles. Kind of like Nvidia drivers, if it's not broke don't fix it.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/15/2021 at 5:11 PM, Victory103 said:

Good info so far and thanks for keeping this thread alive. After years of play with a powered USB hub, I finished a flight and noticed something was wrong with my stick TMS Up button in the F-16 despite checking button bindings. Decided to fire up TARGET for some reason even though I never use it. Found out my stick FW was out of date as well as the TARGET software. Off to the TM site to download both. During the FW update to the stick, somehow my throttle got flashed. Working through the "bootleg method" and firing up an old ASUS gaming laptop to see if I can push the throttle firmware there. Combo has worked for years, and I even managed to not pinch any wires during the mini-stick update to the throttles. Kind of like Nvidia drivers, if it's not broke don't fix it.

Yeah, it's not really a great idea to flash the controller firmware if it's working.  It definitely doesn't prevent bricking as we now know full well.


Edited by bn880

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Throttle #00179 bricked this week after 11 years of flawlessness ! trying to get in touch with TM support.

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Patiently waiting for: DCS: Panavia Tornado, DCS: SA-2 Guideline, DCS: SA-3 Goa, DCS: S-300 Grumble

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  • 1 month later...

Throttle #83219 passed away peacefully last night....

SYSTEM SPECS: Hardware Intel Corei7-9700K @ 5.1 GHz, 32Gb RAM, EVGA 3090 XC3, Dell S2716DG, Virpil T50CM3 Throttle, T-50CM2 Base & Constellation Alpha + MFG Crosswinds V2, HP Reverb G2 @ 2836 x 2768
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VR Stuff:   My Settings for 3090 and G2  My Settings for 1080ti  Shaders MOD for VR  My variant of Kegetys mod with clear water and also IC PASS for current beta & stable, Patch Status

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Hey guys, I have managed to dump the firmware from the PSOC chip using open source tools, sadly it is from a faulty throttle and it appears the first part of flash is corrupt.

It appears the memory is not read protected, so it should be possible to dump a working image.

If someone does have a bluepill STM32F103 board at hand and is willing dump firmware from a working throttle, let me know.

 

Firmware for the STM32 programmer:

https://github.com/walmis/arduino_hssp

 

psocdude:

https://github.com/walmis/psocdude

 

Also some useful hacking tools:

https://github.com/trou/cypress_psoc_tools

 

Once you have the firmware running on the bluepill, avrdude port called psocdude can be used to dump and write firmware on the PSOC. 

Ubuntu machine (or VM) is recommended to easily build the required tools.

 

dumped flash file:

warthog_throttle_dump.bin

 

For comparison firmware file dumped from the TH windows utility:

HA10T_PSOC_USB_v23.tmf

 

The ISP header is conveniently placed on the PCB.

isp_interface.jpg

 

Pinout on the BluePill board:

  • SDATA_PIN -> PB15
  • SCLK_PIN -> PB14
  • XRES_PIN -> PB13

IMG_20210628_151311.jpg

Flash read command (ubuntu):

$ ./psocdude -C psocdude.conf -p CY8C24894 -c arduino -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -U flash:r:out.bin:r

psocdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

psocdude: Device signature = 0x001f
psocdude: reading flash memory:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 3.09s

psocdude: writing output file "out.bin"

psocdude done.  Thank you.

 

Flash security configuration on chip:

Spoiler

 

Flash security settings:

 


block 00 : Disable internal write
block 01 : Disable internal write
block 02 : Disable internal write
block 03 : Disable internal write
block 04 : Disable internal write
block 05 : Disable internal write
block 06 : Disable internal write
block 07 : Disable internal write
block 08 : Disable internal write
block 09 : Disable internal write
block 0a : Disable internal write
block 0b : Disable internal write
block 0c : Disable internal write
block 0d : Disable internal write
block 0e : Disable internal write
block 0f : Disable internal write
block 10 : Disable internal write
block 11 : Disable internal write
block 12 : Disable internal write
block 13 : Disable internal write
block 14 : Disable internal write
block 15 : Disable internal write
block 16 : Disable internal write
block 17 : Disable internal write
block 18 : Disable internal write
block 19 : Disable internal write
block 1a : Disable internal write
block 1b : Disable internal write
block 1c : Disable internal write
block 1d : Disable internal write
block 1e : Disable internal write
block 1f : Disable internal write
block 20 : Disable internal write
block 21 : Disable internal write
block 22 : Disable internal write
block 23 : Disable internal write
block 24 : Disable internal write
block 25 : Disable internal write
block 26 : Disable internal write
block 27 : Disable internal write
block 28 : Disable internal write
block 29 : Disable internal write
block 2a : Disable internal write
block 2b : Disable internal write
block 2c : Disable internal write
block 2d : Disable internal write
block 2e : Disable internal write
block 2f : Disable internal write
block 30 : Disable internal write
block 31 : Disable internal write
block 32 : Disable internal write
block 33 : Disable internal write
block 34 : Disable internal write
block 35 : Disable internal write
block 36 : Disable internal write
block 37 : Disable internal write
block 38 : Disable internal write
block 39 : Disable internal write
block 3a : Disable internal write
block 3b : Disable internal write
block 3c : Disable internal write
block 3d : Disable internal write
block 3e : Disable internal write
block 3f : Disable internal write
block 40 : Disable internal write
block 41 : Disable internal write
block 42 : Disable internal write
block 43 : Disable internal write
block 44 : Disable internal write
block 45 : Disable internal write
block 46 : Disable internal write
block 47 : Disable internal write
block 48 : Disable internal write
block 49 : Disable internal write
block 4a : Disable internal write
block 4b : Disable internal write
block 4c : Disable internal write
block 4d : Disable internal write
block 4e : Disable internal write
block 4f : Disable internal write
block 50 : unprotected
block 51 : Disable internal write
block 52 : Disable internal write
block 53 : Disable internal write
block 54 : unprotected
block 55 : unprotected
block 56 : unprotected
block 57 : unprotected
block 58 : unprotected
block 59 : unprotected
block 5a : unprotected
block 5b : unprotected
block 5c : unprotected
block 5d : unprotected
block 5e : unprotected
block 5f : unprotected
block 60 : unprotected
block 61 : unprotected
block 62 : unprotected
block 63 : unprotected
block 64 : unprotected
block 65 : unprotected
block 66 : unprotected
block 67 : unprotected
block 68 : unprotected
block 69 : unprotected
block 6a : unprotected
block 6b : unprotected
block 6c : unprotected
block 6d : unprotected
block 6e : unprotected
block 6f : unprotected
block 70 : unprotected
block 71 : unprotected
block 72 : unprotected
block 73 : unprotected
block 74 : unprotected
block 75 : unprotected
block 76 : unprotected
block 77 : unprotected
block 78 : unprotected
block 79 : unprotected
block 7a : unprotected
block 7b : unprotected
block 7c : unprotected
block 7d : unprotected
block 7e : unprotected
block 7f : unprotected

 

 


Edited by walmis
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Good research regardless! Thanks for sharing, might help me fix my broken board.

Core i5 6600k@4.2Ghz | 32gb DDR4 3200Mhz | MSI 2070 Gaming Z | 500Gb OS SSD + 1TB Gaming SSD | Asus VG27AQ | Trackhat clip | Thrustmaster Warthog

 

F14 | F16 | AJS37 | F5 | Av8b | FC3 | Mig21 | FW190D9 | Huey

 

Been playing DCS from Flanker 2.0 to present :D

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  • 2 months later...
On 6/28/2021 at 7:31 AM, walmis said:

I have an update. I resoldered the Cypress chip with hot air with new solder and flux and the throttle magically sprung back to life. Very weird...

Did the original solder joints look gray and mealy?...........  Care needs to be taken that you do not use too high a wattage iron, use one designed for fine electronic circuitry.  I've seen crap loads of videos online of guys soldering new parts into their warthog, I wanted to cringe at what I saw.  If you have some type of magnification device inspect your solder joints, for that dull gray finish, with a mealy texture.  You would hope from the factory they would be nice bright, shiny, concave fillets that last a good long time.  Also if you use any type of liquid flux to assist in soldering clean it all up with alcohol, FLUX is your friend when soldering, and your enemy if you don't get it all off.  and a little dab will do you. Your computer should be on a very good surge protector or UPS.  Power companies are not the most stable electrical sources, power spikes in the summer when they switch loads will fry electronics if strong enough.  I have one of these on both of my Entertainment set ups if you can't afford a really good UPS.  https://www.showmecables.com/10-outlet-home-theater-surge-protector-7-ft-cord?gclid=Cj0KCQjwg7KJBhDyARIsAHrAXaFlHZd-fwgyHoB_LVf4rzGHpdc-deqaNXD16Xufz2feQrepedB2oTsaAkGkEALw_wcB  And I have a UPS on my computer. 

 

Cheers and good luck

Hoss

Sempre Fortis

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5 hours ago, BeoWolf_57 said:

Did the original solder joints look gray and mealy?

The original soldering looked fine, therefore I was surprised resoldering the chip actually worked. Maybe heat corrected some fault inside the chip, similar how old GPUs in laptops were fixed by heating them. The throttle still works fine to this day. 

 

5 hours ago, BeoWolf_57 said:

Care needs to be taken that you do not use too high a wattage iron, use one designed for fine electronic circuitry.  I've seen crap loads of videos online of guys soldering new parts into their warthog, I wanted to cringe at what I saw.  If you have some type of magnification device inspect your solder joints, for that dull gray finish, with a mealy texture.  You would hope from the factory they would be nice bright, shiny, concave fillets that last a good long time.  Also if you use any type of liquid flux to assist in soldering clean it all up with alcohol, FLUX is your friend when soldering, and your enemy if you don't get it all off.  and a little dab will do you. Your computer should be on a very good surge protector or UPS.  Power companies are not the most stable electrical sources, power spikes in the summer when they switch loads will fry electronics if strong enough.  I have one of these on both of my Entertainment set ups if you can't afford a really good UPS.  https://www.showmecables.com/10-outlet-home-theater-surge-protector-7-ft-cord?gclid=Cj0KCQjwg7KJBhDyARIsAHrAXaFlHZd-fwgyHoB_LVf4rzGHpdc-deqaNXD16Xufz2feQrepedB2oTsaAkGkEALw_wcB  And I have a UPS on my computer. 

Actually a hot air station is required to perform this procedure. Iron only does not suffice here. As for the iron, I can't recommend TS-100 enough - last iron you'll ever need 🙂 

https://eleshop.eu/ts100.html (also lots of options available on aliexpress, banggood etc.)

 

This video shows how the procedure looks like:

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Everything on my throttle works, except the left throttle (Z-rotation) isn't anymore. Anybody got any fixes? I recently did the slew upgrade and ever since then it stopped working. I updated the throttle as the instructions said, is that what did it?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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