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Post MotherBoard Specs Of Bricked TM Warthogs Here Please


twobells
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My Warthog Joystick and pedals are working, but My Throttle only worked for TWO days

and now is not recognised by usb port. Tried powered hubs and front and back 2.0 ports

on ROG VII Formula (3003.cap)

 

Tried doing the "installing the throttle Bulk Driver " and no luck but I most

likely did it wrong. HELP !!!

 

6-25-2016%2012-23-15%20PM%20%20Throttle_zps9kocupxv.jpg


Edited by ctguy1955
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  • 4 weeks later...

My WH arrived a few days ago Serial# 54119 (what's written on the small silver plate on the throttle).

 

I'd like to avoid any future problems of this kind, do you know if this batch is safe?

 

Both the stick and the throttle are now connected to the USB ports on the PC.

Should i plug-in / plug-out every time or can I leave it connected?

My PC cuts all power when it's off.

 

Thanks.

Windows 10 - Intel i7 7700K 4.2 Ghz (no OC) - Asus Strix GTX 1080 8Gb - 16GB DDR4 (3000 MHz) - SSD 500GB + WD Black FZEX 1TB 6Gb/s

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  • 1 month later...

I own two Warthog sets and the oldest set did not want to install the throttle firmware update at all untill I connected it to my old Dell Precision workstation (after my gamerig and my laptop).

 

Only on the Dell the firmware update procedure could be completed.

So I recommend trying different computers when experiencing problems.

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Have you guys tried "usbdeview.exe" yet ?

 

 

Google it, read it and maybe it can help. Solved a few not-wanting-to-register USB problems.

Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL16 - Asus 1080ti EK-waterblock - 3x 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus PG278Q 27" QHD Gsync 144Hz - Win11 Pro - Phanteks Evolv-X 

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  • 4 months later...

It sounds like some of these "bricked " systems could be caused by the USB not recognizing the throttle.

I would like to ask if the throttle was plugged into a different USB port prior to having a "bricked" system. I thought I had an issue with my track ir but it was fine. Only needed to go in regedit and delete the track IR software ( even though I had already done this in windows the file remained after anyway. One I did that the trackIR worked great and would power up within the software. Prior would not.

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  • 7 months later...

Mine bricked today. Very little use as I am building the cockpit. Guys have mentioned previously about the fact that it seems to generate static from nowhere. U go near it and it sparks. Motherboard has gone, that I have no doubt. Got it touch with Thrustmaster and it would be cheaper if I bought a new throttle than put it through the Paid RMA to France. I will buy a new motherboard and rip the old one to bits and find out why so many throttles fail. Got right on my tits this thing. From TM If you decide to start a PAID RMA, you will have to: - You will have to pay for shipping the wheel's base to our repair center in France; - Your wheel will be checked and if a repair is possible (because in some situations the defective part is not available as a spare part and cannot be replaced), then a price quotation for the parts that need replacing will be issued; - Along with the parts that need replacing you also have to cover a 60 Euros fee, for handling and shipping the wheel back to you; - You will have to pay for the entire quotation first (via PayPal); - Once the payment is confirmed on our end, the wheel will be repaired; - Once it is repaired and tested, it will be shipped back to you. Important note: before starting an out of warranty RMA, you need to confirm that you acknowledge the following: - we cannot guarantee that the product can be repaired before having it inspected; - if the product cannot be repaired, you will have 2 choices: you can pay 60 Euros to receive it unrepaired, OR abandon the product and allow us to destroy it, free of charge. The price for the main PCB is 53.80 Euros (shipping included). We are looking forward to your answer. To ensure the most efficient follow-up of your query, please answer directly to this email (do not open a new tic

Windows 7 64 Home Premium, i5 3570K (3.4 @ 4.4GHz), Asus P8Z77-V LX, 16GB dual channel 1600 ram, EVGA Nvidia GTX980ti, 240 GB OCZ SSD, 3 TB Raptor, Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas and Throttle, Saitek Pro Combat Rudder pedals.

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this

 

I don't disagree with the company policy, just its more expensive than buying a new one.

Windows 7 64 Home Premium, i5 3570K (3.4 @ 4.4GHz), Asus P8Z77-V LX, 16GB dual channel 1600 ram, EVGA Nvidia GTX980ti, 240 GB OCZ SSD, 3 TB Raptor, Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas and Throttle, Saitek Pro Combat Rudder pedals.

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Why are you over complicating it? You are building a cockpit for a sim, so surely you can just order the main PCB for the throttle and replace it at home. Especially if the symptoms resemble those listed in this thread... (device not listed properly in windows, or may work in usb2.0 ports not 3.0 or vice versa)

Also have you tried doing the firmware flashing procedure?

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Why are you over complicating it? You are building a cockpit for a sim, so surely you can just order the main PCB for the throttle and replace it at home. Especially if the symptoms resemble those listed in this thread... (device not listed properly in windows, or may work in usb2.0 ports not 3.0 or vice versa)

Also have you tried doing the firmware flashing procedure?

 

This!

I've done it.

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Have you guys tried "usbdeview.exe" yet ?

 

 

Google it, read it and maybe it can help. Solved a few not-wanting-to-register USB problems.

 

This and it works superbly!

Sometimes I have to go in and check again after a W10 upgrade.

 

Otherwise, once adjusted there are no unwanted USB timeouts because W10 thinks the port is not being used after a short while.

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Mine died. Purchased new December 14. It has been plugged in all that time. It was unplugging it when I cleaned my case that killed it, it never came back to life :(

Looks like I'll have to buy a new PCB. This is not a pleasing outcome for a very expensive purchase.

 

FWIW I have a Gigabtye GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 motherboard.

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Sad to hear it. If it's any consolation, I also just recently purchased a quite expensive incline trainer with a Cypress controller similar to the Hog's, and it fried after 30 minutes of use (just had the board replaced 1 hour ago). These chips are terrible. :/

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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  • 1 year later...

Just wanted to mention for anyone else that experiences the brick of death that I am selling some new PCB's to fix the bricking issue at lower cost than TM if you're out of warranty. I am also setting up to repair old broken PCB's (these would be at LEAST as reliable as brand new ;) ). It's especially a good deal for people in Canada followed by USA. Shipping may be a bit excessive to EU but who knows for sure.

 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233024689318

 

Will post on buy/sell also.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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  • 3 months later...
Just wanted to mention for anyone else that experiences the brick of death that I am selling some new PCB's to fix the bricking issue at lower cost than TM if you're out of warranty. I am also setting up to repair old broken PCB's (these would be at LEAST as reliable as brand new ;) ). It's especially a good deal for people in Canada followed by USA. Shipping may be a bit excessive to EU but who knows for sure.

 

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/233024689318

 

Will post on buy/sell also.

 

I have just bricked my throttle. How much to get it running again? Windows sees it but it refuses to light up. Tried to boot with TM software; no joy.

 

You still do repairs? If not, can you sell me a PCB?

 

randall.macdonald@rogers.com

 

Mississauga, Ontario

 

PS edit: I have a stick with scrapped axis ball. I bought a new stick. Suggestions?

The Hornet is best at killing things on the ground. Now, if we could just get a GAU-8 in the nose next to the AN/APG-65, a titanium tub around the pilot, and a couple of J-58 engines in the tail...

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So looking to get a new HOTAS setup. My G940 is EOL at 8 plus years now. So the next option is to get a WH. But after reading through here, I am not sure what to do. I assumed a more expensive kit would be more reliable. Mine had no real problems in 8 years. The FF is becoming erratic at this point. So will be deactivating for now. WH seems to be a bit less reliable for the $200 more it will cost to get the Stick and throttle and a set of pedals.

 

So is there a reliable way to not brick the throttle?

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Aaron

i7 2600k@4.4ghz, GTX1060-6gb, 16gb DDR3, T16000m, Track IR5

 

BS2-A10C-UH1-FC3-M2000-F18C-A4E-F14B-BF109

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  • 2 months later...

Throttle 38194 purchased March 2015. ASRock ASRock Fatal1ty Gaming Fatal1ty Z97 Killer LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

 

I had my entire pit plugged into an Amazon basics USB 3.0 powered hub for a few years. Warthog Joystick & Throttle, TM Rudder, TM MFDs, Logitech G15 keyboard, Logitech Unifying reciever for a trackball mouse, and a Sparkfun Arduino for my extra switches. I would plug the hub into a USB extension when I wanted to use it. I had it unplugged for a while when I stopped playing DCS for a few months. I moved the pit to another room while I moved my PC into a closet. When I hooked everything back up I learned it was bricked.

 

For those curious, I filled out a support ticket to TM saying I'd done everything to recover it according to their documentation and asked if they concurred that it was bricked to send me a new one. They agreed and the new board was $34.18 + shipping ($7.75 slow shipping or $14.46 for fast shipping)

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Throttle 38194 purchased March 2015. ASRock ASRock Fatal1ty Gaming Fatal1ty Z97 Killer LGA 1150 Intel Z97 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

 

I had my entire pit plugged into an Amazon basics USB 3.0 powered hub for a few years. Warthog Joystick & Throttle, TM Rudder, TM MFDs, Logitech G15 keyboard, Logitech Unifying reciever for a trackball mouse, and a Sparkfun Arduino for my extra switches. I would plug the hub into a USB extension when I wanted to use it. I had it unplugged for a while when I stopped playing DCS for a few months. I moved the pit to another room while I moved my PC into a closet. When I hooked everything back up I learned it was bricked.

 

For those curious, I filled out a support ticket to TM saying I'd done everything to recover it according to their documentation and asked if they concurred that it was bricked to send me a new one. They agreed and the new board was $34.18 + shipping ($7.75 slow shipping or $14.46 for fast shipping)

This is not the total cost typically from Thrustmaster. They also charge you VAT, and usually ship using the expensive option when you ask for the cheap one. And to most countries you will pay duties/taxes (not sure if in your instance)

 

 

Did they not charge you VAT, did you have any other charges?

 

:) I assure you that you will always save money using the repair service compared to TM's charges, even if you have to ship your board in. https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=225797


Edited by bn880

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This is not the total cost typically from Thrustmaster. They also charge you VAT. And to most countries you will pay duties/taxes (not sure if in your instance)

 

 

Did they not charge you VAT, did you have any other charges?

 

 

Edit: this user is posting this here because I didn't want to provide him free electronics repair information on his other broken board, so he's trying to make it look like you don't save much with my repair service. :) I assure you that you will always save money using the repair service compared to TM's charges, even if you have to ship your board in.

 

This is what they charged me. No VAT was applied. Maybe it's because of my location?

 

I had no such intent to slander you or your service. I simply sent a casual PM as someone who tinkers with electronics as well. I saw your ebay post and it looks like you have an excellent service at a great value. I don't claim otherwise.

 

As someone who infrequently visits the forums I just assumed you hadn't gotten a chance to respond to my PM. This is not in any way a retaliation against you for not responding. I think you offer a great service at a great price point. I literally just posted about your service on our discord channel because I think it's a great option.

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Okay, I have edited my post. Fair enough and sorry for the accusation. (and yes I basically don't answer most request for info on how to do repairs, it's also obviously time consuming and I already try to offer the service at a super low cost to make it worthwhile)

 

 

When I got several boards from them they illegally charged me VAT and used the shipping method I didn't ask for, it was rather frustrating considering it was their product failing over and over again :/

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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  • 1 month later...

Just to let you guys know, my throttle #12694, purchased in 2012, died about a week ago. The replacement PCB from TM arrived today for roughly 50 Euros, and the throttle is operational again.

 

Since I have DeltaAlphaLima's highly recommended Slew Cursor upgrade, I had to re-calibrate the throttle as per the Slew Cursor installation instructions, which worked just fine.

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