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Warthog throttle pinky switch replacement, UK edition.

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Hello and welcome to my Thrustmaster Warthog throttle pinky switch replacement guide.


I live in the UK and have found it difficult to find any information with regards to replacing the pinky switch in the UK specifically.

I found numerous vids and advice on HOW to replace it, but not WHERE I could source the correct switch from in the UK.


This guide presumes you are comfortable taking apart your beloved throttle and have access to, and can use, a soldering iron.

No special tools are required.


If you're reading this you probably already know that there are an abundance of SPDT switches out there, and if you don't know what one of those is, like I didn't, just google it. It'll make more sense. 

I found it difficult to decipher all the sizes and switch types so I wanted to share exactly WHAT switch I used and WHERE it came from at a very reasonable price.


So lets get to it....




From a reputable electronics company, RS Components.


RS stock number: 7347139











To remove, undo the 2 phillips screws holding the left throttle together.

They are located on the INBOARD side of the throttle.

The OUTBOARD panel that the switch sits in should now start to come away from the body of the throttle.




You will find 2 black spacers inside that will become loose once the screws are fully removed.

Take those out and keep them safe with the screws. At this point don't worry about which way around they go as I'll specify that later on.



I'm going to have to break this post up into stages as my images are too big and limited to a max of 5MB per post.











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The black spacers mentioned at the end of part 1.




Take care now when you withdraw the OUTBOARD panel with the switch on. 


You can safely, and carefully, pull the panel out to the extent that the wires allow, no more.




Take a picture of YOUR switch and wires at this point as for some reason it may or may not be the same as mine. 

Note the colour of the wires and which terminals they're connected to. THIS IS IMPORTANT!




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Nice post sir.

How did your switch break in the first place was it just normal wear and tear ?

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Posted (edited)



Now your panel is away from the body you can undo the locking nut that secures the switch to the outboard panel.

For this I used some thin long-nosed pliers as a socket will not fit in the recess. I shouldn't be too tight so loosen that off and free your switch.

Keep in mind not to tug on the wires as you do this.




Ok, so I've just worked out how to make my images a little smaller so should be able to add a few more in per post now! (Can you tell I haven't done this before??)


Once your nut is off, remove the panel from the switch.

At this point I just put the nut back on over the switch so I didn't loose it or get it mixed up with new parts. (Although technically it should be the same).




Now this is out you'll see that there is glue over the soldered joints. This is best removed before you try to disconnect the wires. 

I personally used a set of snips and carefully snipped away at the glue trying not to catch the wire. 

Get this glue off by whatever means you see fit. A small hobby knife, snips, etc.



Apologies about the quality of this image. Didn't focus too well. You get the idea.


Once all the glue is off you're ready to de-solder.



As you can see I managed to damage the end of my brown wire and it came away from the soldered joint. This just means I lost a bit of length and had to strip a bit of the end ready for re-soldering. 

They are only delicate little joints, hence the glue to protect and reinforce them.

Don't worry if you do this, just be conscious that you'll have slightly less wire to work with that's all.


Now the glue is off, carefully de-solder the wires from the terminals. Try not to burn the other wires protective sleeve while you're de-soldering another.


Now the old switch can be completely removed and discarded and you'll be ready for the rebuild.





38 minutes ago, rapid said:

Nice post sir.

How did your switch break in the first place was it just normal wear and tear ?

Hi Rapid, thank you for your response.


I believe over time the switch internals have gradually worn and became unserviceable. 

The switching feel was no longer solid, in fact it felt very loose. 


I understand this particular switch from new on the throttle is not all that great in quality compared to the rest of the switches on the device.





Edited by deltawhisky7
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Take your new switch, check it against your old one to confirm you've got the right thing and not accidentally ordered the wrong one.

If it's all good, you can do this next step in 1 of 2 ways:


Either connect your switch up to the OUTBOARD plastic panel from the the throttle you removed earlier, then solder,


Solder your wires onto the switch, then install switch into OUTBOARD panel.


Up to you.

I preferred to have more to hold onto when soldering as it helps for positioning and keeping the damn thing still while you solder. So I attached it to the panel first.



Oh yeh, something I forgot to mention, you can see in the background of this picture some odd shaped washers.

The wider looking one (closest to the pliers), you need to seat on the switch before inserting into the panel as it has a tab that locates into a guide in the back of the panel.

The jaggedy looking one, I personally didn't use. Not necessary.


Once that's in you're ready to solder. I went for having the terminals sat horizontally so I could place the soldering iron underneath and apply some solder into the terminal 'holes' ready for the wires to be installed.

If that makes sense. Put some solder on the terminals before trying to attach the wires. It'll make your life easier.



See the solder in the 'holes' in the above image.



Hold the soldering iron underneath while you apply solder on top. (I have multiple images here as I couldn't hold the soldering iron, solder, and camera at the same time.)


and yes I realise I need to clean my tip off. Always keep your tip clean kids.



I started from the bottom and worked my way up the terminals.


Once the solder is in place, carefully solder on one wire at a time, again starting from the bottom working upwards. 

Soldering iron underneath the terminal, wire over the top, seated against the solder ready to gently push through once the solder starts to flow.

Take your time doing this. The better your soldered joint, the longer it'll last and better connection you'll make.

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You should now have a nice new switch hanging off 3 wires from your throttle.


If you have a glue gun, try your hardest to put a few little blobs over the soldered joints. 

This is very tricky to do and make it look presentable. I failed to get it to look the same as it was before.

Don't laugh at my attempt. It went all stringy and looks poo, BUT it is in place and will provide some form of protection and will reinforce the soldered joints. So I'm happy...ish.



If you didn't install the switch into the panel in the previous step, do this now, being careful to locate the washer tab into the guide.


Next place your screws in from the INBOARD side and locate the black spacers onto the screws in the body of the left throttle.

Black spacers go in with the fat end facing OUTBOARD.

Be careful not to pinch the wires in there as you do this.












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Now gently position the switch panel onto the body of the throttle. If it feels like it's not going on properly for any reason don't force it. Just bring it back and double check everything.

Once in position gently clamp/squeeze (with your fingers) the top of the throttle to prevent the INBOARD panel from being displaced as you tighten up the screws.


Now tighten up the screws. DO NOT overtighten. Just nip them up. Try to do them up evenly as possible to aid the panel going back on straight and level.




Once all tightened up, check all the bits in front of you and confirm you haven't left anything out or forgotten something! Quick sanity check.


If you're happy, plug her in and recalibrate as necessary.


The new switch should last a fair bit longer than the old one, and because they're so cheap, why not buy 2 just in case. I did.


Hopefully this all made sense and works for you.


Please don't hesitate to contact me if you have or had any dramas. I'll be happy to assist where I can.

I'm no expert in this field and don't take any responsibility for any damages caused if you follow this guide and something goes wrong.


It is purely a guide. I do not work for TM or RS components.


All the best, and happy flying!







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very useful.
I have to end my soldering process.

my switch broke when I hit it with my knee.

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8 hours ago, Weegie said:

Thank you @deltawhisky7


Great tutorial and very generous of you to take the time and trouble to not only give us a part but a nice pictorial guide on how to install

Hi Weegie, 

Thank you for your kind words. 
You’re very welcome. I just felt it’d save people a fair bit of hassle and time trying to search the correct part in the UK.

Not an easy task when you’re not 100% sure what you’re looking for. 😂


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