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Switchology - 3 Way Switch


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I have just started to add to my collection of switchboxes in A10C configuration for my VR pit using zero delay USB encoder boards. To date, in addition to my warthog HOTAS, I have the electrical panel, Canopy raise and lower, Signal light /fire bleed /Yaw and pitch SAS switches and takeoff trim on another panel. Fuel panel is fitted with boost pump switches, the crossfeed / external tank cluster of switches and the fill disable buttons. Everything is placed in the location where the eye sees them in VR and works as expected. I can pretty much cold start the jet by flipping switches now. Rotary stuff for radios ect I do not have.

 

I have just started work on the weapons / TGP / panel and have hit a brick wall... I havwe the switches for CICU on off, JTRS on off, TGP, HUD mode ect, but am stumped by the three way switches.

 

I sent off to Hong Kong for some three position ON ON ON switches for the off/arm /train type switches but on arrival, after testing them with a multimeter, they are not the expected position 1 on, 2 and 3 off. Position 2 on, 1 and 3 off and position 3 on, 1 and 2 off.

 

However you configure the wiring there is always 2 out of the three positions on. Taking the switch apart to look at the contacts confirm this, instead of a slider making contact straight across the switch, there are two rocking blades with the center position always connected to them, so terminals 3 and 4 cannot be connected directly. soldering in a shunt wire across the blades will leave terminals 3 and 4 hot permanantly.

 

 

Anyone figured a way around this problem or recommend a switch that breaks between the positions so I can map them easily?

System spec: i9 9900K, Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Ultra motherboard, 32Gb Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200 RAM, Corsair M.2 NVMe 1Tb Boot SSD. Seagate 1Tb Hybrid mass storage SSD. ASUS RTX2080TI Dual OC, Thermaltake Flo Riing 360mm water pumper, EVGA 850G3 PSU. HP Reverb, TM Warthog, Crosswind pedals, Buttkicker Gamer 2.

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A 3 position "On-on-on" switch in a toggle format is very rare. I never came across one, I only assume such thing exists.

 

Using the common on-off-on however is not a problem. To get that middle position You will map the OFF (button up) events from both sides. Can be done in the input config LUA file .I prefer to map such switches via helios.

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

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The way I have seen on-on-on is by wiring a 2-pole 3 position switch like this;

https://sensing.honeywell.com/2TL1-12-toggle-switches

 

In this way:

[ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","title":"2TL1-12 - wired as on-on-on.png","data-attachmentid":7116748}[/ATTACH]

Cheers

Hans

 

Perfect. Just tried it with the multimeter and it works a treat. I was caught up in trying to utilise all six terminals with common and switched wires.

 

To add insult to injury, I tested the common and switched inputs to the board. It seems that the common from the board is +5v and the wire to this in the plug is coloured BLACK... while the switched wire back to the board is coloured red.

 

No wonder my head was hurting, I find electrickery a chore at the best of times, slept through most of the auto electrical modules at college, but to have wires coloured in the reverse to expectations made my brain implode.

 

Thanks Han and Agrasy. Your help is very much appreciated.

System spec: i9 9900K, Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Ultra motherboard, 32Gb Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200 RAM, Corsair M.2 NVMe 1Tb Boot SSD. Seagate 1Tb Hybrid mass storage SSD. ASUS RTX2080TI Dual OC, Thermaltake Flo Riing 360mm water pumper, EVGA 850G3 PSU. HP Reverb, TM Warthog, Crosswind pedals, Buttkicker Gamer 2.

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  • 4 weeks later...

 

Perfect. Just tried it with the multimeter and it works a treat. I was caught up in trying to utilise all six terminals with common and switched wires.

 

To add insult to injury, I tested the common and switched inputs to the board. It seems that the common from the board is +5v and the wire to this in the plug is coloured BLACK... while the switched wire back to the board is coloured red.

 

No wonder my head was hurting, I find electrickery a chore at the best of times, slept through most of the auto electrical modules at college, but to have wires coloured in the reverse to expectations made my brain implode.

 

Thanks Han and Agrasy. Your help is very much appreciated.

 

You wouldnt happen to have any pictures of that wired up would you? Im working on an AV8B UFC and have run into that issue of what on-off-on switch I would need to be able to have it recognize the off position as a switch because I'm using a BU0836X

 

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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...Using the common on-off-on however is not a problem. To get that middle position You will map the OFF (button up) events from both sides. Can be done in the input config LUA file .I prefer to map such switches via helios.

 

Agree. There is generally no need for ON1/ON2/ON3 switches, as the 3-position switches in the sim cockpit are mostly configured and programmed for use with ON/OFF/ON switches (like the Flaps switch on the TM WH throttle). Added benefit: you need only 2 inputs on your Bodnar (or whatever) board.

LeCuvier

Windows 10 Pro 64Bit | i7-4790 CPU |16 GB RAM|SSD System Disk|SSD Gaming Disk| MSI GTX-1080 Gaming 8 GB| Acer XB270HU | TM Warthog HOTAS | VKB Gladiator Pro | MongoosT-50 | MFG Crosswind Pedals | TrackIR 5

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