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stable flying ?


lee1hy

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Thats good if you can live with the lower number of buttons for HOTAS-needs.

Thats also exactly how the force trim works.

 

The Huey doesn't need that many HOTAS-buttons. But for my fixed wings I use the X56 stick

A-10C, AV-8B, Ka-50, F-14B, F-16C, F-5E, F/A-18C, L-39, Mi-8, MiG-21, MiG-29, SA34, Spitfire, Su-27, Su-33, UH-1H

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Unlike the KA50, UH-1 flight is unstable. Is there any auto-stable ROLL PITCH system like KA50? It doesn't seem to have any trim.

 

I'm curious how to take off and land stably like Youttube's real video of huey. Without shaking

 

I agree with others who attribute the issue to the short throw on the average joystick.

 

If you go into the Axis Tune setting for both the Pitch and Roll axis, you can dampen the output of your joystick. Below are my User Curve settings...

 

0 : 5 : 10 : 15 : 20 : 25 : 30 : 40 : 60 : 80 : 100

 

With these settings and my CH Fighterstick, the Huey is pretty stable.

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I'm curious how to take off and land stably like Youttube's real video of huey. Without shaking

 

If you make a longer, slower approach and slow the aircraft gradually while making precise correction, the shake isn't as bad. With enough practice you'll develop the ability to land smoothly more quickly, but there's always going to be some shake in a helicopter, especially the Huey.

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Regarding cyclic movement, I had this conversation recently with two pilots I fly with who have 25+ years each in cockpits (mostly Airbus/Eurocopter, some Bell), and both confirmed what I had observed -- when hovering, their right hands are constantly moving. Their touch on the cyclic is very light, and the movements are very small (usually fingers only), but are constant.

 

I think of it a little like balancing on one foot. If you have good balance, it will look like you're absolutely motionless. But to stay in balance, your foot and ankle muscles are constantly making micro-adjustments to compensate for any drift from center. The greater you drift, the greater the movements to correct, and the greater the potential for over-correcting and a swing back the other way. Try balancing on one foot and not letting your foot or leg muscles contract at all, and see how long you can do it.

 

Of course, in more modern helicopters, dynamic instability can be "handled" by flight control computers. But even in that case, the constant adjustments are being made... they are just being made by the computer to generate the stability commanded by the motionless (and not mechanically linked) cyclic.

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Regarding cyclic movement, I had this conversation recently with two pilots I fly with who have 25+ years each in cockpits (mostly Airbus/Eurocopter, some Bell), and both confirmed what I had observed -- when hovering, their right hands are constantly moving. Their touch on the cyclic is very light, and the movements are very small (usually fingers only), but are constant.

Of course, in more modern helicopters, dynamic instability can be "handled" by flight control computers. But even in that case, the constant adjustments are being made... they are just being made by the computer to generate the stability commanded by the motionless (and not mechanically linked) cyclic.

 

Yes.

 

The need for constant movement of the stick comes from that a helicopter is statically stable but dynamically unstable. If the stick is kept absolutely still in the ”perfect” position there will be a disturbance causing the equilibrum to dissapear. The helo will start to roll or pitch and drift away, if not corrected the drift will cause a pitch up in the drifted direction, and reduced drift. Eventually it will start drifting the other way and pass the origin. After this, due to pitch upp, repeat the story.

Each wave will be larger.

There is no perfect stick position that can keep it still. To keep position and not change attitude all changes that constantly divert stick position from equilibrum need to be corrected. Normally this is done with as small movements as possible. When training a new helo pilot too big corrections is common and the way top tech is to say ”keep the stick still and the helo will be still”.

 

This is not modelled correct in the DCS huey, keeping the stick still keeps the huey quite still and if doing a correction instead it counters the stick correction with some kind of wobble in opposite direction for a few ”waves” for a stick movement. I can se how this behaviour is made to make it not being too easy to hover.

[T.M HOTAS Warthog Stick & Throttle + T.Flight pedals, Varjo Aero, HP Reverb pro, Pimax 8KX] 🙂

[DCS Mirage 2K; Huey; Spitfire Mk IX, AJS 37, F-14, F-18, FC3, A-10 Warthog II and a few more ]

i9 13900KF@5.8/32Gb DDR5@6400/ Gigabyte Gaming OC RTX4090, ASUS STRIX Z790-F , 2Tb m2 NVMe

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Just got the TM HOTAS Warthog & Throttle and waiting for MFG Rudder Pedals and 12 cm joystick extension. ()

 

Do you have any "tested or recommended" Huey settings? I mean by that which switch or button on Warthog you have linked to which helo function?

 

Any other recommendation(s) for using Warthog in DCS, please?

__________________

Huey in the air, Spitfire in the hangar 🙂

The last version of OpenBeta (all terrains)

MFG Crosswind V2; Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog; TrackIR 5 (still not in use)

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Hi jpuk,

 

When I was using the Warthog, I kept the two throttle quadrants linked, and used the "friction wheel" axis (small gray wheel on the right) for throttle. In the axis tune menu in DCS, set it and the collective as sliders. You may also have to reverse the collective axis, assuming you want to do it in the "pull-to-increase" style to more closely resemble a real collective.

 

As far as buttons, on the stick:

 

- I set force trim on the red button on the Warthog stick.

- I used what would normally be the trim hat for the "autopilot" modes that let you hand off control to your copilot

- I used the squarish-looking hat for zooming view slow in/slow out and (up and down) and other views

- I used the flat hat for deploying/controlling the gun sight

- I used the thumb hat for weapons select up and down, and rocket quantity up and down

 

On the throttle:

 

- I used the thumb hat to change to the different crew positions

- I used the index-finger hat for controlling crew rules of engagement and rates of fire

- I used the remaining switches on throttle and base for various systems and engine start/shutdown

 

One tip for your MFG Crosswinds: DCS lets you use the toe brakes as modifier buttons. Since you don't need the toe brakes for anything else in the Huey, I use my left toe brake as a modifier to trigger a second layer of functions on all switches, and my right toe brake as the push-to-talk button for Voice Attack.

 

Happy hovering!

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On the original subject of stable flying, for those using Virpil WarBrd, I highly recommend trying the "no center" CosmoSim cams. I switched to them this weekend from the soft-center cams that came with the WarBrd, and the difference in hovering stability is dramatic. (I also like the feel for fixed wing, as the springs still give you a recentering force, just with no "bumping" as you cross the middle.)

 

(@jpuk, I was a Warthog user, but switched to a Virpil T50CM2 on WarBrd base for cyclic, and a homemade collective built around my old Warthog stick base and a left-handed Virpil grip.)

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Hi X-31_VECTOR,

 

very useful hints for me.

 

Thanks a lot.

__________________

Huey in the air, Spitfire in the hangar 🙂

The last version of OpenBeta (all terrains)

MFG Crosswind V2; Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog; TrackIR 5 (still not in use)

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On the original subject of stable flying, for those using Virpil WarBrd, I highly recommend trying the "no center" CosmoSim cams. I switched to them this weekend from the soft-center cams that came with the WarBrd, and the difference in hovering stability is dramatic. (I also like the feel for fixed wing, as the springs still give you a recentering force, just with no "bumping" as you cross the middle.)

 

(@jpuk, I was a Warthog user, but switched to a Virpil T50CM2 on WarBrd base for cyclic, and a homemade collective built around my old Warthog stick base and a left-handed Virpil grip.)

 

 

I'd love to get a set of centerless cosmosim cams...when Virple can get them in stock :)

 

 

Shipping is a nightmare as well...

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I'd love to get a set of centerless cosmosim cams...when Virple can get them in stock :)

 

Actually, they show as in stock on the "Rest of World" store site now:

 

https://virpil-controls.eu/vpc-warbrd-cosmosim-cams.html

 

Looks like maybe on the EU-Asia site too.

 

But yes, Virpil products are the toilet paper of HOTAS (incredibly hard to find in stock). :)

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