TM F/A-18C Hornet, Warthog and Cougar grips disassembly and OTTO switch upgrade

[HILOK]

On 9/22/2023 at 7:52 PM, MAXsenna said:

Worded myself a little vage. So the shift register in the Cougar grip doesn't support it, and I guess neither does the base.
Thanks for answering!

just in case you weren't aware, debolestis has developed shift registers that mimick the warthog ones, they're basically compatible to all TM compatible stick bases (cougar, realsim, virpil, even virpil collective). i used it for a DIY project. works great. also debolestis is a great, very helpful guy 

https://oshpark.com/profiles/Debolestis

 

[MAXsenna]

just in case you weren't aware, debolestis has developed shift registers that mimick the warthog ones, they're basically compatible to all TM compatible stick bases (cougar, realsim, virpil, even virpil collective). i used it for a DIY project. works great. also debolestis is a great, very helpful guy 
https://oshpark.com/profiles/Debolestis
 

Ah! Thanks for reminding me! That's actually excellent, and might be exactly what I need!

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk

[HILOK]

8 hours ago, MAXsenna said:

Ah! Thanks for reminding me! That's actually excellent, and might be exactly what I need!

you're very welcome, mate  there's also an alternative from rel4y, but i haven't tried it. it comes pre-assembled. don't know about it's dimensions though, debolestis' ones are very tiny and easy to fit.

[WurzelGummage]

Hi everybody,

Just been reading this thread as the pickle button on my Warthog A10 stick has failed.

I've ordered a new grip, but I think in slow time I'd like to try and replace the pickle button with an OTTO one and then keep it as a spare.

Does anyone have a reliable source for the P8-111221C (that's the shorter, black bodied with red button) switch in the UK preferably. I can find them on mouser but they are out of stock. I've also trawled eBay to no avail. 

Thanks

Edited December 16, 2023 by WurzelGummage
Spooling

[DeadMeat]

On 12/16/2023 at 1:49 PM, WurzelGummage said:

Does anyone have a reliable source for the P8-111221C (that's the shorter, black bodied with red button) switch in the UK preferably.

 

According to the data sheet, that's a silver one with a short top.

The P8-141321A is in stock at Mouser (black casing, 4 lbf, red button, regular top like the P1)

 

[WurzelGummage]

2 hours ago, DeadMeat said:

According to the data sheet, that's a silver one with a short top.

The P8-141321A is in stock at Mouser (black casing, 4 lbf, red button, regular top like the P1)

 

Ah, yeah, my bad thanks. You are a gentleman and a scholar. 

[WurzelGummage]

HNY all, 

Just wanted to post and say that thanks to the information in this thread, I was able to order the right button (thanks @DeadMeat) and repair my warthog grip for less than half the cost of a new one.

P8-141321A fits the pickle button perfectly length wise, it did need some tape wrapped around the body to ensure a snug fit in the aperture and I secured it with a little hot glue per the other buttons. Whole job took less than half an hour.

[DeadMeat]

Good job. Enjoy the clicking

[ZeeMan90]

Hi DeadMeat,

since the index button on my Warthog stick started to register two presses every once in a while (which makes switching the master modes in the A-10C II annoying as one is skipped suddenly) I decided to order 2x of the OTTO P1-11118.

What do I have to regard in terms of soldering and orientation? From your pictures I have deduced that I have to remove the old index button, insert the OTTO P1-11118 and solder a green and a black wire to the corresponding contacts of the OTTO button. Are there markings that indicate which contact point is left and right so that I solder everything correctly? 

 

Regards

[DeadMeat]

@ZeeMan90 it doesn't matter how you wire the contacts on the new switch. Just desolder the existing switch and connect the new one. If you're replacing multiple switches at the same time you just have to be careful not to mix them up.

You may have to hot glue the OTTO switch in place or use some electricians tape if it doesn't fit snugly. 

[ZeeMan90]

Did the repair today. It worked like a charm.

On mine the original switch had some hot glue on the cables so I cut the wires to remove the switch.

I did it as close as possible to the housing so that there is enough wire left to do the resoldering and fit the switch into the gap.

After soldering the OTTO switch to the wires I used Tesa electricians tape as recommended and it fit snuggly into the casing.

VIRPIL's Joystick Tester indicated proper function of all buttons and axis. In DCS there is no occasional double click anymore. 

I love the tactile feedback and the click sound of the OTTO switch.

 

Thank you very much for your in-depth guide. It made the whole process possible in the first place. 

Edited February 17 by ZeeMan90

[DeadMeat]

21 hours ago, ZeeMan90 said:

Did the repair today. It worked like a charm.

On mine the original switch had some hot glue on the cables so I cut the wires to remove the switch.

I did it as close as possible to the housing so that there is enough wire left to do the resoldering and fit the switch into the gap.

After soldering the OTTO switch to the wires I used Tesa electricians tape as recommended and it fit snuggly into the casing.

VIRPIL's Joystick Tester indicated proper function of all buttons and axis. In DCS there is no occasional double click anymore. 

I love the tactile feedback and the click sound of the OTTO switch.

 

Thank you very much for your in-depth guide. It made the whole process possible in the first place. 

 

 

Good to hear. Enjoy the clicking :)