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Logitech G940 Reversal Bug - v1.42 Firmware Update


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This is a new thread about an old problem for the Logitech G940. Since the links to Logitech's original forum topics have disappeared (because Logitech removed their old forums and didn't archive them in a linkable way), I thought I would summarize and provide new links from archive.org to the Logitech forum topics and the v1.42 firmware that partially solves the reversal bug.

 

The link to the v1.42 firmware can be found at the bottom of this post. It is not available on Logitech's support site, but still available from their ftp site. It was an unofficial release, only available from the Logitech forums.

 

New Info June 2019: fred41 has created a patch for the v1.42 firmware that solves the reversal bug for ALL axis now, as well as improves some of the force feedback settings which improves the general feel of the stick. Finally after a decade since it was released, the G940 HOTAS works the way it should. You apply fred41's patch to the v1.42 firmware installer which is linked below. Then just run the v1.42 firmware installer like normal and fred41's patches will be applied to the stick. Thanks fred41!!

 

Link to fred41's forum topic on the firmware patch: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=240114

Link to the patch: https://github.com/fred41/G940-firmware-fixes

 

 

What is the reversal bug?

 

By design, Logitech added a form of hysteresis to all the analog axis on the G940. Hysteresis is kind of similar to a dead zone, but dead zone is normally added at the stick center (centered by the springs) where hysteresis would look like a dead zone, but occur anywhere you reverse the direction of an axis.

 

There is benefit to this. Many people like having a dead zone as it resolves the issue of noisy pots, and that is probably why Logitech added this feature in the first place. But they took it a step further and that was a disaster. Hence why we call this a reversal bug instead of a reversal feature.

 

First, you can't get rid of the hysteresis dead zone. It is added by the G940 firmware and there is no option to get rid of it. Second, it isn't true hysteresis. In fact when you reverse the axis, it causes the axis position to jump after reaching the other side of the hysteresis dead zone. Third, odd effects with FFB would occur due to the reversal bug, most of which have disappeared with the v1.42 update.

 

What does this mean? Load some software that lets you see the position of an axis in percentage. If you move any G940 axis from say 50% to 80%, then reverse the direction, with simple hysteresis, you would physically move the axis a small amount and the % position in the software would not change. But after a bit of movement (through the dead zone) you would see the axis go from 80% to 79%. That is hysteresis - a dead zone that occurs any time the axis is reversed. On the G940, though, what really happens is the axis moves from 80% to 77% once you move past the dead zone. That is the disaster. Upon reversing direction after moving through the dead zone, the axis always jumps 2-3%, as if the dead zone didn't actually exist.

 

Both the jump, and the dead zone are problems. Also, for the FFB on the stick, I often got jumps in the motors trying to counteract either my reactions to the reversal bug jumps, or perhaps as part of the way the reversal bug affected the FFB algorithms internally. I never tested completely to understand. All I know is not only did v1.42 fix the reversal bug for the stick, but the FFB got way better. What I thought was just really bad FFB mechanical design, turned out to be mostly software.

 

The G940 FFB design still isn't as good as the Microsoft FFB2, but the v1.42 software makes it worth using the G940 over the MS FFB2 because the MS FFB2 doesn't have enough hats and buttons to be called a HOTAS setup. Also, the MS FFB2 has a dead zone at the stick center which cannot be removed - which I also consider as a fatal flaw. The hysteresis dead zone on the G940 follows the stick as the FFB holds the stick in different locations, but the MF FFB2's dead zone is always at X/Y center regardless of what the FFB motors are doing. Microsoft made an excellent product in the FFB 2 except for that one issue, and it almost ruins it for some applications.

 

But back to the G940.....

 

The dead zone is a problem because on certain aircraft (helicopters especially), having a dead zone gets in the way rather than helping.

 

The jump is a problem because imagine you are using the G940 Throttle as a helicopter collective. Being able to make a 0.5% adjustment to the collective (or the throttle on any aircraft) is important. But the best you can do is a 2-3% jump every time you reverse the axis. The same is true when using the trim knobs on the joystick, or the separate slider wheels on the throttle to adjust the position or size of a targeting camera or radar reticule, or the size of the targeting circle on a WWII war bird. It is infuriating, and a significant percentage of G940 users either returned their units, or just gave up and put them in the closet because of this.

 

Search on "G940 reversal bug" and you'll see several links to discussions of the issue. Here is a Youtube video that shows the issue:

 

Here is a discussion of the issue on Logitech's main forums (linked from archive.org):

https://web.archive.org/web/20101222165145/http://forums.logitech.com:80/t5/PC-Gaming/G940-quot-reversal-bug-quot-is-it-a-hardware-or-software-problem/td-p/445318

 

Several links in the Logitech forum topic are broken (like viewing later pages of the topic, or other linked topics). You may have to use archive.org to hunt them down if you want to read the entire topic.

 

 

What is the solution?

 

CharlesB on Logitech's fourm (a Logitech employee) championed the effort to fix this in late 2010. You can see his original comment about the effort here (which is page 3 of the Logitech forum topic I linked above):

https://web.archive.org/web/20101222165257/http://forums.logitech.com/t5/PC-Gaming/G940-quot-reversal-bug-quot-is-it-a-hardware-or-software-problem/td-p/445318/page/3

 

He released firmware v1.42 which solves the issue for the joystick axes only. The other axes still have the issue. The reversal bug is still there on the stick too, but instead of jumping like 2-3% when you reverse the joystick axes, it jumps only about 0.3% which is good enough to not notice the issue anymore.

 

After the release of v1.42, no further effort occurred to fix the other axes. I believe CharlesB tried to get it done, but it wasn't given priority. So the other axes are mostly useless.

 

You can see his original posting on the v1.42 firmware here:

https://web.archive.org/web/20120119090658/http://forums.logitech.com/t5/PC-Gaming/G940-firmware-1-42-is-now-available/td-p/542496

 

Installing the v1.42 Update

 

You can still download the firmware direct from Logitech here:

https://download01.logitech.com/web/ftp/pub/techsupport/joystick/G940_Update_FW0142.zip

 

If the above link is broken, PM me and I will send you the firmware. Archive.org did not archive the download link.

 

To install it, note the following:

 

Notes from CharlesB:

  • This release specifically targets and improves the accuracy of the X/Y on the joystick
  • The firmware updater may hang. Don't panic. Simply close and reopen the updater. The G940's firmware wont be fully written until all blocks of data are transmitted and verified.

 

Additional notes to consider:

  • You may need to "run as admin" (right click on the installer and run as administrator).
  • The v1.42 updater still worked for me in Windows 10.
  • You may need to install the latest G940 Software which includes the v1.41 firmware update, and apply that firmware update if your G940 has older firmware. I don't know if the v1.42 firmware will update from older versions of the firmware. The latest G940 software is available from Logitech's website (Logitech Gaming Software v5.10.127) and still works under Windows 10 in my experience.
  • You don't need to use the Logitech Gaming Software v5.10.127 to use a G940, but it still works fine under Windows 10, and provides several important features (FFB settings) as well as a profile editor to assign custom key presses to keys and axis.
  • Logitech Gaming Software v5.10.127 is not specific to the G940 - it supports many older (now unsupported) Logitech gaming devices. The latest version of Logitech Gaming Software is completely different than v5.10.127, but in my experience, I am able to run v5.10.127 and the current versions side by side without issue.


Edited by Drakoz
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So found the PSU for and finally got it mounted in my pit ect.

However, I'm having trouble with the logitech profiler settings not doing anything.

The only thing that seem to be working is Centering Spring Strength. Also Choosing FFB in options only ****s up trim and doesnt move stick.

Ever had the same problem?

"Hard to imagine bigger engine. its got a beautiful face and an arse built like sputnik." - Pikey AKA The Poet, on 37 Viggen.

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What happens when you go to the Windows Control panel for the G940. When you press buttons on the stick, it should exercise the FFB effects. This should happen regardless of whether the profile software is loaded or not.

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All the effects work in the control panel. I also seems very arbitrary when the settings actually take hold. For example, just now I was playing around with min/max setting to see difference and nothing happened. I applied new settings, activated an effect and then checked resistance force ect. Some of the time not even Centering Spring settings were applied. Other times the (not as often) the new setting isent applied and it just feels like a standard centering force.

Im unsure what the problem is.

"Hard to imagine bigger engine. its got a beautiful face and an arse built like sputnik." - Pikey AKA The Poet, on 37 Viggen.

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Small update:

 

So the arbitrary settings mostly seem to work only just after confirming them and while in the device control panel window (where the ffb effects are activated). If focusing on DCS window or closing control panel, the standard ffb setting takes hold emediatly (felt by stick stiffening).

"Hard to imagine bigger engine. its got a beautiful face and an arse built like sputnik." - Pikey AKA The Poet, on 37 Viggen.

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This stick should have been the one to get... a complete HOTAS package, stick, throttle, and rudder pedals with force feedback. It is a shame they found a way to fail with such a great concept and at a decent price, too. With just a few relatively minor hardware and software changes, this package would have dominated its niche.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Speedstick, sometimes, something will happen that causes DCS to no longer control the FFB.

 

For example, I have gotten DirectX game controller resets (the messages in the upper right corner of the screen saying all your controllers disconnected and then reconnected - but that's another conversation). Anyway, when that happens, the stick will default to some config not controlled by DCS (or rather probably controlled by the Logitech software, or random???). In my case, the stick just goes limp. I have spring force turned OFF in the Logitech software and depend on DCS to drive the spring force completely, so the stick goes limp. BTW, that is how you should use a G940 with DCS - turn spring force off in the Logitech software. Anyway, if I then do something that would affect FFB (e.g. tap the magnetic brake button on the cyclic in the Gazelle or do a trim change in most aircraft), then DCS takes over the FFB effects again, and all is determined by the settings in DCS (the stick goes back to normal).

 

Not sure if that is what you are seeing, but something to consider.

 

The Logitech Profile software also has the ability to control non-spring effects like friction and hydraulic feel. This would cause the stick to feel sluggish when moving it, but not spring it back to center if you also have the centering spring turned off. But I'm not sure if these effects are active, or if DCS overrides them. I haven't thought about it in a while.

 

I used to use simFFB with my Microsoft FFB2 stick, to create these effects or to give FFB function to any aircraft that didn't have FFB, or where it was implemented incorrectly. There are some features of simFFB that may help you diagnose the issue here. But otherwise, the Logitech software more or less does the same thing. Search on simFFB and you'll find several forum topics about it and where to get it if you are curious.

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I had this stick years ago when I first bought the a10c module, but after a few months I sold it due to the deadzones it had, I was extremely frustrated with it. It's a real shame, the setup was really great otherwise

 

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

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Ah yes simFFB. Already have it installed, just forgot about it. And it seems like the only thing that works at the moment.

Would be nice if ffb work like mirage fbw or something, or some more effects.


Edited by SpeedStick

"Hard to imagine bigger engine. its got a beautiful face and an arse built like sputnik." - Pikey AKA The Poet, on 37 Viggen.

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This stick should have been the one to get... a complete HOTAS package, stick, throttle, and rudder pedals with force feedback. It is a shame they found a way to fail with such a great concept and at a decent price, too. With just a few relatively minor hardware and software changes, this package would have dominated its niche.

 

 

Exactly, all the potential for a stick that would be the one to own. I was very disillusioned with the way Logi behaved denying that they messed up by using cheap pots and the wiring in the throttles being 1 cm too short which caused flexing/stretching of the wires.

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This stick should have been the one to get... a complete HOTAS package, stick, throttle, and rudder pedals with force feedback. It is a shame they found a way to fail with such a great concept and at a decent price, too. With just a few relatively minor hardware and software changes, this package would have dominated its niche.

 

Yeah, that's a shame. And the reason I went back to the trusty old MS FFB2, but I got me a HOTAS Warthog to have a decent throttle unit at least rainbowdashwink.png

 

Not even the space sim revival done by E:D and SC brought FFB back, because them devs left support out due to the lack of hardware on the market - basically that could have been the chance to get some new FFB gear though since lots of people then started buying joysticks and HOTASes again fluttershysad.png

 

So we'll probably have to wait for the Immersion patents to expire, and hope that it really happens. They don't get any revenue out of them anyway... rdlaugh.png

dcs-dashie-ed.jpg.c4fa047dc1c71d5ceb1913aa54b2a11e.jpg

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Using a G940 stick with the new firmware and a Warthog Throttle has been a reasonably nice setup. But yes, Logitech had a really nice product (stick, throttle and pedals) if they just hadn't screwed it up.

 

The G940 FFB isn't nearly as nice as the MS FFB 2, but since it has extra hats and buttons vs. the FFB2, I use the G940 and put up with the less than perfect FFB. For war birds, though, I go back to the MS FFB2. Even the MS FFB2 is screwed up with a center dead zone that screws up aiming with a war bird and causes some difficulty with helicopters, so frankly, there are no FFB sticks that don't have some fatal flaw. At least with the v1.42 firmware, the G940 now has no noticeable dead zone, or hysteresis as I call it which was due to the reversal bug.

 

An eBay seller has been listing the sticks, throttles, and pedals separately for a Buy It Now of $30 each (free shipping) for a couple months. They are listed as not working. I assume they bought out Logitech's stock of warranty returns. Since many warranty returns were people that got fed up with the reversal bug, there is a good chance many of them are good working units.

 

I bought two of the sticks. Both work fine except one came without the piece that covers the analog joystick HAT (they fall off easily), and the other had a single faulty button (bad tact switch). I have two other complete G940 sets, so I bought these originally as parts to keep my good sets working. But aside from the bad tact switch (easy to replace), I have 4 equally working G940's. That should keep me going for years until something new comes out or I finally just make my own FFB stick.

 

The pedals and throttle on eBay are not worth $30 each, but I have every reason to assume the pedals are good and they just aren't testing them. A good cheap pedal set could be had by buying the G940 pedals and using them with a 3 analog axis to USB converter board to bypass plugging them into a G940 and hence you would avoid the reversal bug on the pedals. The cheapest way to do that is use one of these:

 

Thrustmaster VG TRJ12 USB Adapter for T3PA & T3PA-PRO 3-Pedal

http://a.co/d/a4cTOz3

 

This is the adapter that allows taking a Thrustmaster race car pedal set or rudder pedal set and plugging it into a USB port directly instead of having to plug them into a racing wheel or T16000 HOTAS. You would have to adapt the G940 pedal connector 9 pin connector to the RJ12 connector on the TRJ12. Pinouts are online, or I can post. It is a bonus that the TRJ12 is TARGET compatible. So you could integrate your pedals with a Warthog in TARGET.

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  • 1 month later...

Hello guys I am about to put my hands on a old Logitech g940 (buying used for 90 euros). I intend to use only the stick and the throttle (as a button box since I have the warthog throttle) and I have some question for old users.

I would like to know which modules in DCS World make uses of the FFB functions.

Real Hornet pilots here and on discord say the the Hornet FCS configures different control travel depending on the mode (gear up or down) and speed, and also they are able to Trim or to move the stick and leave where it is...is something of this modelled in the DCS Hornet?

I Remember the when I had an old FFB stick in the A10 Beta period we had trim force and spring centering force...do we have the same in other modules as well?

Also I have seen that here there are old stick extension projects but the threads are old and the images are gone easy way (https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=84518) hard way (https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1386793) so for the easy way I can't understand what to do and what pieces are needed. Someone can give some advice?

Thanks


Edited by VirusAM

Vincent "Virus" DThe

PC: R9 5900x/RTX2080Ti, 64GB RAM.

Joystick bases: Virpil T-50CM2 with 20cm extension (Center), TMW (sidestick)

Joystick grips: Realsimulator F18, TM F-16

Throttles: Winwing Super Taurus

Hardware: Saitek Combat Rudder, 4x Thrustmaster Cougar MFD, Logitech G13, Winwing Panels

VR: Valve Index 

Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G5, TrackIr v5

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Most DCS modules support FFB in some form or another. Not all are perfect, though. For those that aren't perfect, or if there is no FFB support, simFFB fills the gap. simFFB implements the feel of friction, hydraulic feel, spring, as well as a single button magnetic lock feature (like for helicopters), or a hat trim function. So if a DCS module does not have FFB support, simFFB fills the void. You have to search for it as the original author is no longer supporting it, but it still works. Or PM me and I can send it to you. Source code is included.

 

As for the Hornet specific stuff - I own the DCS F/A-18 but I haven't flown it enough to answer your questions.

 

I don't recommend extending the G940 stick. The G940 gimbal is a little week and has slop. A longer stick may weaken the gimbal more. Plus the FFB does not kick in initially for slight movements, so the stick can move maybe 1 mm at the top when you let it go due to weight (gravity) before the motors will hold it. If you extend it, that 1mm movement will be worse and you will likely not be happy with using an extender. Maybe I'm wrong, though, if you set the FFB spring effect at max or higher (greater than 100%). See below...

 

But if you must... The first link is just talking about taking the stick handle apart and moving the stick handle halves about 5cm higher on the existing internal shaft and just screwing it back together. If you look at the stick handle from the side, you'll see 3 or 4 screws which you can remove to disassemble the handle. I have not tried this mod, though. Again, I don't recommend such a mod because as the original poster says, it will make the stick less stable (the handle won't grip the inner stick as strongly). But at least it is easy enough you can try it and see if you like it. No materials or permanent changes.

 

The second link, with such a long stick may actually make the FFB feel better because the G940 motors, when maxed out (> 100% spring force), are very strong - too strong in that you feel like you are fighting them. So with a long stick maybe the motors will hold the stick better. But again, the gimbal for the G940 is really not a very good design, and putting such a long extension on the stick may prematurely wear the gimbal out or break the plastic pin that links the axis together. Just my suggestion - something to be aware of, but don't be afraid to try it. Regardless of my lack of recommendation, it might actually work out. But don't get too ham fisted with the stick, because you can break the gimbal.

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ok but manouvers like aar are difficult with it?

i know that g940 has the same hall sensors of the warthog...so it should be quite precise is it true?

Vincent "Virus" DThe

PC: R9 5900x/RTX2080Ti, 64GB RAM.

Joystick bases: Virpil T-50CM2 with 20cm extension (Center), TMW (sidestick)

Joystick grips: Realsimulator F18, TM F-16

Throttles: Winwing Super Taurus

Hardware: Saitek Combat Rudder, 4x Thrustmaster Cougar MFD, Logitech G13, Winwing Panels

VR: Valve Index 

Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G5, TrackIr v5

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What is the aar maneuver? Is that a recovery maneuver?

 

I forget how the stick senses position (single hall effect sensor or separate pots or hall effect sensors - haven't had one apart for a while), but yes, all my G940 sticks track very well. I have 4 of them and no spiking or other tracking issues (for the stick X/Y). The other axis like the trim knobs use simple pots and the are noisy like any basic pot would be. Plus you have the reversal bug which really kills their usefulness.

 

The issues I mention above about the approx 1mm play in the stick are purely related to how the stick's firmware drives the FFB motors, and due to a little bit of slop in the plastic gimbal mechanism. The firmware lets the stuck move a little bit before it starts to engage the motors enough to hold it steady.

 

I fly helicopters mostly where I constantly use magnetic brake to hold the stick, and though the slop is a little annoying, I tend to pull the stick just slightly back further (opposite of the direction that gravity wants to pull the stick), tap magnetic brake, and let it go, and it holds the helicopter as intended. For jets or airplanes, this really isn't an issue as they don't require anywhere near the precision for holding the stick in a single spot as required for helicopters. So if aar means a "let the stick go and recover" mode, I assume the G940 will do that just fine. Similarly, for war birds, the FFB feel does everything you would expect it to - e.g. trim will move the stick as expected, staling will cause the stick to go limp, etc. But just like with a real airplane, you can't just triim the stick or yoke and expect the airplane to fly exactly straight all the time. The FFB doesn't hold the stick that perfectly.

 

And I'll say again, make sure you update to the latest firmware, v1.42, as it both fixes the reversal bug as well as significantly improves the FFB feel. Not so jumpy or reactive to inputs after updating the firmware.

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sorry...aar is air to air refueling...just to understand if it is a precise stick like the warthog....but thanks for your explanation it answers some of the questions i have...if i can do another question...

i am seeing that all the profiles here uses the pov hat as the tdc (for the a10 or f18) but as i have the warthog throttle for that...i would like to use it for the trim...it is possible via the logitech software to map the pov axis to buttons like in the thrustmaster target?

Vincent "Virus" DThe

PC: R9 5900x/RTX2080Ti, 64GB RAM.

Joystick bases: Virpil T-50CM2 with 20cm extension (Center), TMW (sidestick)

Joystick grips: Realsimulator F18, TM F-16

Throttles: Winwing Super Taurus

Hardware: Saitek Combat Rudder, 4x Thrustmaster Cougar MFD, Logitech G13, Winwing Panels

VR: Valve Index 

Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G5, TrackIr v5

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VirusAM - about AAR, using a force feedback joystick is much easier (imo) because forces around center are soft and there is no center "hard point".

 

When I catch the basket with F18, I then hold the base of grip with thumb and 1 finger and do precise adjustements with no force.

(I use 70% for FF, with 100% it's not the same…)

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These questions are perhaps off topic and it might be better to start a new threat, but....

 

Yes, for AAR, just like for a helicopter or any time you want the most precise joystick control, any FFB stick will tend to be better than a sprung stick because they are so light and easy to move around the center point (no X or Y crossing notches which cause hesitation as you move the stick). So regarding the G940, the issues are not precision for movement (x/y pickup by the pots or hall effect sensors). The issues are lack of precision for the FFB which is a little frustrating when it comes to holding the stick with magnetic brake on a helicopter. But in AAR, you will have your hand on the stick constantly and sloppy FFB isn't an issue.

 

For the POV, not sure which you one you mean. The lower POV hat is a 4 way button like most POV hats, and you can assign anything you want to it either in DCS, or in the Logitech Profiler software (v5.10.127 is the last version to support the G940). For the upper POV (called the mini-joystick), this is an analog X/Y mini-joystick. You can assign it to any DCS control that works with an analog axis (many DCS aircraft allow analog axis to control targeting cursors, etc.), or in the Logitech Profiler software, you can assign zones which will perform keyboard keypresses which turns the analog mini-joystick into a 4 way hat.

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These questions are perhaps off topic and it might be better to start a new threat, but....

 

Yes, for AAR, just like for a helicopter or any time you want the most precise joystick control, any FFB stick will tend to be better than a sprung stick because they are so light and easy to move around the center point (no X or Y crossing notches which cause hesitation as you move the stick). So regarding the G940, the issues are not precision for movement (x/y pickup by the pots or hall effect sensors). The issues are lack of precision for the FFB which is a little frustrating when it comes to holding the stick with magnetic brake on a helicopter. But in AAR, you will have your hand on the stick constantly and sloppy FFB isn't an issue.

 

For the POV, not sure which you one you mean. The lower POV hat is a 4 way button like most POV hats, and you can assign anything you want to it either in DCS, or in the Logitech Profiler software (v5.10.127 is the last version to support the G940). For the upper POV (called the mini-joystick), this is an analog X/Y mini-joystick. You can assign it to any DCS control that works with an analog axis (many DCS aircraft allow analog axis to control targeting cursors, etc.), or in the Logitech Profiler software, you can assign zones which will perform keyboard keypresses which turns the analog mini-joystick into a 4 way hat.

 

 

 

yes sorry i intended the pov axis...i wish to use that as a trim in the f18

....so i should use the logitech profiler to achieve that..thanks

Vincent "Virus" DThe

PC: R9 5900x/RTX2080Ti, 64GB RAM.

Joystick bases: Virpil T-50CM2 with 20cm extension (Center), TMW (sidestick)

Joystick grips: Realsimulator F18, TM F-16

Throttles: Winwing Super Taurus

Hardware: Saitek Combat Rudder, 4x Thrustmaster Cougar MFD, Logitech G13, Winwing Panels

VR: Valve Index 

Monitor: Samsung Odyssey G5, TrackIr v5

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  • 3 months later...

... i just registered to share my latest firmware patch, which aims to fix the strange hyterese behavoir of all the 8-bit axes (reversal bug) and to remove the rudder firmware deadzone.

 

If someone want to give it a try?

 

https://github.com/fred41/G940-firmware-fixes

 

This patch is based on the latest inofficial firmware 1.42 and you need logitechs firmeware updater 'G940_Update_FW0142.exe' for uploading.

 

 

Please let me know how it works, thanks.

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Hi,

 

 

thanks for testing and feedback.

 

Yes it was a challenge to understand the machine code and its problems. But it was a very interesting lesson too.

 

As for the throttle, there is a simple mechanical modification, to significantly improve the precision:

 

There are 2 holes in the plastic with a diameter to big for the axes (M5 screws). I just used a 0.8mm wire, to bend a ring from.

This ring fits exactly between the M5 screew's and the plastic holes. Works very good for me.


Edited by fred41
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Hey fred41,

big thank You for the updated firmware, the good old G940 works like a charm, precision improved!

ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING, i7-6700k @ 4,00GHZ, 32 GB G.Skill DDR4 3200, GTX1080, TIR 4, unused Odyssey+, TM Warthog Throttle and Stick, TM Pendular Rudders, SupaDupa Saitek PC Dash 2

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