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Hornet UFC (potentially)


Brun

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Hi, Ian, I just started to learn how to use DCS BIOS. I want to make display in UFC, but the colon baffled me. Your post gave me a lot of help, but I still didn't understand how to update the colon and values of display at the same time. If I connect multiple displays on one board, what should I do? Hope to get your help and feel sorry for my poor English!

 

 

Ian;4103267']If you can, spend about $100 on a decent temperature-controlled soldering station (Hakko FX-888 or similar). For peace of mind, make sure it has an auto-power-off feature.

 

If you have to use a cheap "starter kit" iron without temperature control (definitely possible, I used one for a few years), make sure to avoid lead-free solder. The cheap irons will not match the higher melting point for the lead-free stuff, and while you can still make working lead-free solder joints with one, it is an exercise in frustration.

 

 

 

You can write your Arduino sketch in such a way that different string values go to the same display. How exactly you do this depends on the exact display and Arduino library used.

 

One method is the one shown in the tutorial video on LCDs. In the on...Changed() function, the first command sets the cursor of the display to the start position and the second one writes the newValue to the display.

This works well for displays that support a partial update.

 

A slightly different method should be used if your display can only update everything at once. In that case, remove the on...Changed functions from the code snippets and replace them with NULL in the parameter list to the StringBuffer so you'd end up with something like this:

DcsBios::StringBuffer<1> ufcOptionCueing1Buffer(0x7428);
DcsBios::StringBuffer<4> ufcOptionDisplay1Buffer(0x7432, NULL);

In this mode, the StringBuffer will not call a function when the data changes. You can check it instead from your main loop() like this:

if (ufcOptionCueing1Buffer.hasUpdatedData() || ufcOption1DisplayBuffer.hasUpdatedData()) {
 // one of the two values has changed
 // write both values to the display and update; pseudo-code, adapt to whatever display library you are using
 myDisplay.setCursor(12, 20); // some position
 myDisplay.print(ufcOptionCueing1Buffer.getData());
 myDisplay.print(ufcOptionDisplay1Buffer.getData());
 myDisplay.update();
}

 

In general, a lot of people seem to ask "can you do X with DCS-BIOS?", to which the answer is almost always "yes, as long as you write some Arduino code". I wonder what kind of documentation I need to add to make people ask "How do I" instead of "Can I do".

I cannot add snippets to cover every possible use case (even if I had the time, the sheer amount of snippets would overwhelm a newbie).

I have one more feature I want to add to the DCS-BIOS Hub; after that, I want to take some time to focus on bug fixes, some user interface design, and most importantly improve the documentation. Any advice on how I can make this complex topic easier to approach for complete beginners is appreciated.

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Thanks, its getting there! I did search ebay but the array of inserts is confusing. I think brun's original design had a lip on it and i dont know if that matters or not. There's bunches for m3 and m4 metric but the have different diameters and i dont know if they would fit.


Edited by ///Gonzo\\\
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The outside doesnt matter that much since it will get melted in anyway.

Aslong as it's the right screw size ofcourse, mine are M3 atleast.

 

So check the diameter of the 3d print holes, then look for datasheet on some M3 inserts if you're unsure.

But I'd go for any M3 insert :)


Edited by Lobinjaevel
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  • 2 weeks later...
Hey did anyone have a file i could use to import this into fusion360? Im trying to make a mounting adapter i plan on sharing with you guys. I think i can up with something good if i have the model to mess with.

 

Somewhere in this thread is a link to a zip file containing an OBJ. I should really add stuff like that to the first post.

9900K | 32GB Corsair XMS | 3080FE | Reverb G2 | VPC MongoosT-50CM2 + TM Grips  | Warthog Throttle | MFG Crosswind Pedals

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Massive kudos to Brun for the design of the UFC. Great thread too, really enjoyed reading through it and planning my build.

 

Has anyone found a good alternative to the square 12mm pushbuttons that are in stock? Struggling to find an alternative.

 

Cheers :thumbup:

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Hornet UFC (potentially)

 

Massive kudos to Brun for the design of the UFC. Great thread too, really enjoyed reading through it and planning my build.

 

Has anyone found a good alternative to the square 12mm pushbuttons that are in stock? Struggling to find an alternative.

 

Cheers :thumbup:

 

 

 

The link to Mouser is showing 1800 in-stock for the square buttons, are you looking for something else?

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Massive kudos to Brun for the design of the UFC. Great thread too, really enjoyed reading through it and planning my build.

 

Has anyone found a good alternative to the square 12mm pushbuttons that are in stock? Struggling to find an alternative.

 

Cheers :thumbup:

Those ones in the OP aren't great. The NKK ones linked elsewhere are far better, but very spendy given the quantity needed.

9900K | 32GB Corsair XMS | 3080FE | Reverb G2 | VPC MongoosT-50CM2 + TM Grips  | Warthog Throttle | MFG Crosswind Pedals

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The link to Mouser is showing 1800 in-stock for the square buttons, are you looking for something else?

 

Yes. As Brun says, it was reported that they weren’t that great. Happy to use them if there’s no alternative, otherwise I’d like to get something better.

 

Those ones in the OP aren't great. The NKK ones linked elsewhere are far better, but very spendy given the quantity needed.

 

Sadly the NKK ones are EOL according to their European distributor and there isn’t a like for like replacement. Nobody has stock now it seems.

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There must be alternatives. It's not like they have to be rated for 2 million activations or anything, just have a nice feel.

 

Problem is that unless you work in a related field or have a helpful acquaintance it's gonna be trial and error.

9900K | 32GB Corsair XMS | 3080FE | Reverb G2 | VPC MongoosT-50CM2 + TM Grips  | Warthog Throttle | MFG Crosswind Pedals

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There must be alternatives. It's not like they have to be rated for 2 million activations or anything, just have a nice feel.

 

Problem is that unless you work in a related field or have a helpful acquaintance it's gonna be trial and error.

 

That’s the issue. It starts getting expensive trying out one or two from various places once you add on shipping.

 

Maybe I’ll buy these now as I know they will fit and experiment later. I might go down the display route at some point, which will mean a custom PCB, so I could switch to tactile PBs at that point.

 

Thanks guys :thumbup:

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Positively a really basic question.

 

Where would I source the pin connectors ?

nTYU3Zu.png

 

Only place I can find them for certain is the Leo bodnar site, and that would be over £60 in just wire I other wise could have stripped out of an ethernet cable ?

 

And soldering directly to the board doesn't seem like a wise option to me :P

i7 8700k @ 4.7, 32GB 2900Mhz, 1080ti, CV1

Virpil MT-50\Delta, MFG Crosswind, Warthog Throttle, Virptil Mongoost-50 throttle.

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Positively a really basic question.

 

Where would I source the pin connectors ?

nTYU3Zu.png

 

Only place I can find them for certain is the Leo bodnar site, and that would be over £60 in just wire I other wise could have stripped out of an ethernet cable ?

 

And soldering directly to the board doesn't seem like a wise option to me :P

 

Amazon, eBay, AliExpress and Banggood are all options (in order of cost).

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KC43D2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3bjwFbKPRQ5PW

 

These aren’t the cheapest, but possibly cheaper than Leo Bodnar? Just cut one end off...

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I'd recommend something like this.

 

Takes a bit of practice to get the crimping consistent but it's worth the effort. If you get some 2x2 dupont connectors, you can use those for all the switches/encoders which have four wires. Should make plugging things into the board much less fiddly.

 

Have just realised that you could make a lot of the wiring less hassle by doing this...

 

2x2Plug.jpg

9900K | 32GB Corsair XMS | 3080FE | Reverb G2 | VPC MongoosT-50CM2 + TM Grips  | Warthog Throttle | MFG Crosswind Pedals

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Search ebay for Dupont connectors

 

That's the golden info I needed :D

 

Since on a god forsaken rock of a nation, only about of a third what's on amazon even ship here, and if they do I'd get rogered in shipping and VAT.

 

I did find a bundle of connectors, so I can start some experiments and should have a handle of the crimper I need if I really get going :)

Thanks guys !


Edited by Bob_Bushman

i7 8700k @ 4.7, 32GB 2900Mhz, 1080ti, CV1

Virpil MT-50\Delta, MFG Crosswind, Warthog Throttle, Virptil Mongoost-50 throttle.

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I'd recommend something like this.

 

Takes a bit of practice to get the crimping consistent but it's worth the effort. If you get some 2x2 dupont connectors, you can use those for all the switches/encoders which have four wires. Should make plugging things into the board much less fiddly.

 

Have just realised that you could make a lot of the wiring less hassle by doing this...

 

2x2Plug.jpg

 

Great solution Brun.

 

On a different subject... Do you have any plans to model the Spin Recovery/IR Cool panel on the opposite side to the Master Caution panel?

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Brun, I tried downloading the Zip earlier. Everything seems fine and I viewed each 3D model in Adobe photoshop.

I sent the files for print and they say sizing is corrupted, and 4 of the files are completely corrupted?

I know nothing about 3D print files or printers or software so don't know if its something I have/ have not done?

Cheers

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