Jump to content

Hornet UFC (potentially)


Brun

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

image1.jpg

 

Hey guys just finished the build and love it. Came out really nice and all the switches work which is great! The biggest problem I'm having is figuring out the best mounting solution. Could a few of you that have done this share your mounting pictures? Or link some brackets that worked well for you?

 

Thanks!

AMD Ryzen 9 5950X | Aorus X570 Master | 64GB G Skill Trident Z Royal | EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra| Samsung EVO Plus 2 TB M.2 PCIe SSDs | TM Hornet Stick/WinWing Hornet Throttle | VPC T-50 Stick Base | TM TPR Rudder Pedals W/Damper | HP Reverb G2



 

VFA-25 Fist of the Fleet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice outcome.

Hornet, Super Carrier, Warthog & (II), Mustang, Spitfire, Albatross, Sabre, Combined Arms, FC3, Nevada, Gulf, Normandy, Syria AH-6J

i9 10900K @ 5.0GHz, Gigabyte Z490 Vision G, Cooler Master ML120L, Gigabyte RTX3080 OC Gaming 10Gb, 64GB RAM, Reverb G2 @ 2480x2428, TM Warthog, Saitek pedals & throttle, DIY collective, TrackIR4, Cougar MFDs, vx3276-2k

Combat Wombat's Airfield & Enroute Maps and Planning Tools

 

cw1.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

image1.jpg

 

Hey guys just finished the build and love it. Came out really nice and all the switches work which is great! The biggest problem I'm having is figuring out the best mounting solution. Could a few of you that have done this share your mounting pictures? Or link some brackets that worked well for you?

 

Thanks!

looks amazing. congrats.

I have a Buddy Fox -a10 ufc which is attached to my Virpil deskmount using a U-shape inverted aluminium bracket I made at work. Then some matching drills by the side and bolted together. However that unit is very rectangular, and your UFC is much bigger and squared.

I would also take a look at tablets/ebooks/ipads/surface bracket desk supports, it might fit your project.

i5 8400 | 32 Gb RAM | RTX 2080Ti | Virpil Mongoose T-50 base w/ Warthog & Hornet sticks | Warthog throttle | Cougar throttle USB | Virpil desk mount | VKB T-Rudder Mk IV | Oculus Rift S | Buddy-Fox A-10 UFC | 3 TM MFDs | Realteus ForceFeel | 2x bass shakers | SIMple SIMpit chair | WinWing TakeOff panel | PointCTRL v2

FC3 - Warthog - F-5E - Harrier - Hornet - Tomcat - Huey - Viper - C-101 - NTTR - PG - Mi8 - SuperCarrier - Syria - Warthog II - Hind

Link to comment
Share on other sites

image1.jpg

 

Hey guys just finished the build and love it. Came out really nice and all the switches work which is great! The biggest problem I'm having is figuring out the best mounting solution. Could a few of you that have done this share your mounting pictures? Or link some brackets that worked well for you?

 

Thanks!

 

That looks amazing!!! Please tell me where you got the numbered buttons

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Looks great. Are those the same switch buttons mentioned in the first or second post?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great. Are those the same switch buttons mentioned in the first or second post?

 

That printer is exactly what I used for all the buttons on the UFC.

 

image0.jpg

 

Getting closer to finishing. Still need to tidy up a few things. I need to go to the Hardware store tomorrow to get the right length screw for my middle AMPCD and then I can get rid of the piece of extrusion holding it up. All the switches and buttons in the cockpit are functioning fine and have more on the way. I ordered the correct F/A-18 DDIs from PC Flights also have the right side HMCS panel on the way so those will go in next.

AMD Ryzen 9 5950X | Aorus X570 Master | 64GB G Skill Trident Z Royal | EVGA RTX 3090 FTW3 Ultra| Samsung EVO Plus 2 TB M.2 PCIe SSDs | TM Hornet Stick/WinWing Hornet Throttle | VPC T-50 Stick Base | TM TPR Rudder Pedals W/Damper | HP Reverb G2



 

VFA-25 Fist of the Fleet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Appreciated and already donated. Thanks.

i5 8400 | 32 Gb RAM | RTX 2080Ti | Virpil Mongoose T-50 base w/ Warthog & Hornet sticks | Warthog throttle | Cougar throttle USB | Virpil desk mount | VKB T-Rudder Mk IV | Oculus Rift S | Buddy-Fox A-10 UFC | 3 TM MFDs | Realteus ForceFeel | 2x bass shakers | SIMple SIMpit chair | WinWing TakeOff panel | PointCTRL v2

FC3 - Warthog - F-5E - Harrier - Hornet - Tomcat - Huey - Viper - C-101 - NTTR - PG - Mi8 - SuperCarrier - Syria - Warthog II - Hind

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Greekbull,

 

Great work on your cockpit!!

 

Just FYI, the DDI Bezels from PCFlights are nice but, they are NOT based on actual dimensions and their mounting holes are way off. Also, they do not have an accurate AMPCD or Heading / Course Panel.

 

Just so you know.

 

Keep up the great work on your Pit!!

 

Stang out

 

 

That printer is exactly what I used for all the buttons on the UFC.

 

image0.jpg

 

Getting closer to finishing. Still need to tidy up a few things. I need to go to the Hardware store tomorrow to get the right length screw for my middle AMPCD and then I can get rid of the piece of extrusion holding it up. All the switches and buttons in the cockpit are functioning fine and have more on the way. I ordered the correct F/A-18 DDIs from PC Flights also have the right side HMCS panel on the way so those will go in next.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I ordered the same square push buttons as linked, but ended up hating them. I searched around then and found these, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/nkk-switches/kb15skw01-a/?qs=EIJ16CYJdOv2DMeOYQw7Ig%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD , and while they are considerably more expensive than the ones linked, they are also much higher quality, and way more satisfactory to press.

 

So I finished my UFC finally and it's mostly working great - wanted to flag this though because I think I made an expensive mistake. I purchased these exact buttons and while they do feel great and fit perfectly, as listed these are the ON-(ON) buttons. Meaning they are basically always on, and momentarily cycle off when you depress until they go on again. They sorta still work in game, but the effect is after you push them once, the button stays depressed permanently on the virtual UFC. With subsequent presses the Virtual button will cycle out and then depress again. It still kind of works butbits squirrely and visually kind of aggravating. I am a complete novice at this so I just bought what was recommended on the thread here, but I'm assuming what we wanted is the OFF-(ON) version of this switch? I tried searching but couldn't find one. So I think I need to start over on the PB's, or go back to the ones Brun originally listed. Unless I'm missing something or someone knows of a workaround? In the windows game controller all the PB's are permanently illuminated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wereferret,

 

Good news. You have not wasted your money. Looking at the datasheet from the Mouser link above, the KB15SKW01-A switch is a single pole, dual throw, on/momentary on switch. This means one pin is normally on and turns off when the switch is depressed and the other pin is normally off and turns on when the switch is depressed. The momentary() means that the switch does not latch in the second position, but instead automatically returns to the first throw position.

 

Again referencing the data sheet, I believe you want to connect one wire to pin 2, which is the common pin, and the other side of the circuit to pin 1. This will give you the momentary on action you are looking for. It appears you may have connected to pins 2 and 3, which is the wrong throw of the dual throw switch. This is detailed in the Poles and Circuits section of the datasheet on page D26 of the Mouser datasheet.

 

Hope this is helpful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wereferret,

 

Good news. You have not wasted your money. Looking at the datasheet from the Mouser link above, the KB15SKW01-A switch is a single pole, dual throw, on/momentary on switch. This means one pin is normally on and turns off when the switch is depressed and the other pin is normally off and turns on when the switch is depressed. The momentary() means that the switch does not latch in the second position, but instead automatically returns to the first throw position.

 

Again referencing the data sheet, I believe you want to connect one wire to pin 2, which is the common pin, and the other side of the circuit to pin 1. This will give you the momentary on action you are looking for. It appears you may have connected to pins 2 and 3, which is the wrong throw of the dual throw switch. This is detailed in the Poles and Circuits section of the datasheet on page D26 of the Mouser datasheet.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

Yes, very helpful! I do have the datasheets but they were all semi Greek to me. I tried the ole 'touch the wires to different pins and stop when it appears to be working in windows" So I will take another looks this weekend and get it sorted. Thank you very much, it's a relief!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wereferret,

 

Good news. You have not wasted your money. Looking at the datasheet from the Mouser link above, the KB15SKW01-A switch is a single pole, dual throw, on/momentary on switch. This means one pin is normally on and turns off when the switch is depressed and the other pin is normally off and turns on when the switch is depressed. The momentary() means that the switch does not latch in the second position, but instead automatically returns to the first throw position.

 

Again referencing the data sheet, I believe you want to connect one wire to pin 2, which is the common pin, and the other side of the circuit to pin 1. This will give you the momentary on action you are looking for. It appears you may have connected to pins 2 and 3, which is the wrong throw of the dual throw switch. This is detailed in the Poles and Circuits section of the datasheet on page D26 of the Mouser datasheet.

 

Hope this is helpful.

 

Update: Thanks so much for this post - got it worked out. It puzzled me that the lower row of function pushbuttons worked correctly, when the numeric PBs didn't even though they are the same model. Your post made me look closer and realize that although they were all wired the same, I installed the numeric buttons upside down! Resulting in soldering the wrong pins exactly as you described. Just got to switch 9 wires and resolder and should be good to go! Thanks again!


Edited by wereferret
grammar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update: Thanks so much for this post - got it worked out. It puzzled me that the lower row of function pushbutton worked correctly, when the numeric PBs didn't. Your post made me look closer and realize that although they were all wired the same, I installed the numeric buttons upside down! Resulting in soldering the wrong pins exactly as you described. Just got to switch 9 wires and resolder and should be good to go! Thanks again!

 

Glad it all worked out. Have fun with your UFC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Its here! Its looks great except for some wavy patterns on the crs panel. How did you guys mount yours?

still looking for mounting solutions too

i5 8400 | 32 Gb RAM | RTX 2080Ti | Virpil Mongoose T-50 base w/ Warthog & Hornet sticks | Warthog throttle | Cougar throttle USB | Virpil desk mount | VKB T-Rudder Mk IV | Oculus Rift S | Buddy-Fox A-10 UFC | 3 TM MFDs | Realteus ForceFeel | 2x bass shakers | SIMple SIMpit chair | WinWing TakeOff panel | PointCTRL v2

FC3 - Warthog - F-5E - Harrier - Hornet - Tomcat - Huey - Viper - C-101 - NTTR - PG - Mi8 - SuperCarrier - Syria - Warthog II - Hind

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, how do you detach the dials? Every time i try it breaks off. Do you drill them out?
If you're printing FDM he released the knobs individually, I'd recommend that method otherwise drilling them out seems to work well too

 

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...