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X45 physical setup help


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I have had my X45 for awhile now maybe a year or two but now problems are starting to show.

 

The friction locks on the throttle were lost almost within the first few weeks so have just ignored those and got used to just knowing where my idle and afterburner are placed along the slider, as well as general wear on some of the other buttons and sliders. The stick has always been quite fricticious (I know thats not a word but so what) as in when I pull back upon it, it will pause in at least two or maybe three locations before extra force overcomes this annoyance, which really doesn't help my technique and makes smooth, precise movement very difficult. My new problem is that the joystick deadzone has increased. I.e. it moves around within its idle position more then it should or did. It did drop on the floor the other day so am quite sure it was that but is there anything I can do?

 

I have never opened it up before so am not sure what to expect - don't want to not be able to put it back together again - and guides anyone can link me to?

 

had a search and wasn't sure how to word it, or what to search for specifically so couldn't find much - the search comes up blank when you type 'X45' anyway.

 

I seem to remember around about the time I got my X45 back when everyone used the Ubi forums there was a lot of information about sorting out the stick upon purchase and I always meant to go through one of them.

 

 

Thanks in advance

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What's your budjet like? sounds like you could use with a new stick. the X52 is a very good stick. if your willing to spend a bit more, you also consiter the X52 pro.

 

Other than that, I dont know what to tell you.

DCS Wishlist: 1) FIX THE DAMN RIVERS!!! 2) Spherical or cylindrical panorama view projection. 3) Enhanced input options (action upon button release, etc). 4) Aircraft flight parameter dump upon exit (stick posn, attitude, rates, accel, control volume, control-surface positions, SAS bias, etc). 5) ADS-33 maneuver courses as static objects. 6) Exposed API or exports of trim position and stick force for custom controllers. 7) Select auto multiple audio devices

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What's your budjet like? sounds like you could use with a new stick. the X52 is a very good stick. if your willing to spend a bit more, you also consiter the X52 pro.

 

Other than that, I dont know what to tell you.

 

Yeah was thinking that, especially after I tried one at some kids house seemed better then I thought it would be.

 

Only problem is I quit my job last month and am trying to be careful about spending and would rather fix the problem myself to save myself financially - and its kinda annoying for me to buy something new when the item its replacing is right in front of me and not actually broken (by that I mean to say it seems as though I could fix it myself).

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well, sorry, i dont nor have ever had an X45, so I dont know what to tell you.

DCS Wishlist: 1) FIX THE DAMN RIVERS!!! 2) Spherical or cylindrical panorama view projection. 3) Enhanced input options (action upon button release, etc). 4) Aircraft flight parameter dump upon exit (stick posn, attitude, rates, accel, control volume, control-surface positions, SAS bias, etc). 5) ADS-33 maneuver courses as static objects. 6) Exposed API or exports of trim position and stick force for custom controllers. 7) Select auto multiple audio devices

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Not sure if this is what you're experiencing, but I'll throw it in in case it's useful for anyone...

 

IMO, the weak point of the X45 design (and as far as I know the X52 too, but I haven't seen one in the flesh) is the cable linking the two units. It's got a 15pin D connector at one end, but the other end is hardwired into the throttle. Over time and with repeated flexing from movement (like putting the HOTAS away off the desk, for example) the cable starts to fail, leading to erratic uncommanded throttle movements due to noise spikes in the cable. You can try chopping a few inches of the plug end and rewiring it with a new plug, but I think in the end it needs that cable replacing. I'm working up the enthusiasm to do this, and I think what I'll do is mount a 15pin connector on the throttle so that I can use a replaceable cable to link them.

 

The other thing I'd mention is that if you're experiencing a sticking stick, i.e. notchy resistance to bank and pitch, try rubbing candle wax on the rubber boot at the base.

Win10 x64, 16 GB RAM, Ryzen 5 1600X @3.60 GHz, 500 GB SSD, GeForce 1080 Ti

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Heh you don't need to apologise for anything or even have to tell me anything :P

 

Do I come across that demanding in my posts?

 

I'd apologize again for apologizing too much, but that would kinda defeat the point.

 

And dont worry, you definitaly do not come across as demanding.

 

Actually i apologize so that I dont sould mean or demanding.

 

Not sure if this is what you're experiencing, but I'll throw it in in case it's useful for anyone...

 

IMO, the weak point of the X45 design (and as far as I know the X52 too, but I haven't seen one in the flesh) is the cable linking the two units. It's got a 15pin D connector at one end, but the other end is hardwired into the throttle. Over time and with repeated flexing from movement (like putting the HOTAS away off the desk, for example) the cable starts to fail, leading to erratic uncommanded throttle movements due to noise spikes in the cable. You can try chopping a few inches of the plug end and rewiring it with a new plug, but I think in the end it needs that cable replacing. I'm working up the enthusiasm to do this, and I think what I'll do is mount a 15pin connector on the throttle so that I can use a replaceable cable to link them.

 

The other thing I'd mention is that if you're experiencing a sticking stick, i.e. notchy resistance to bank and pitch, try rubbing candle wax on the rubber boot at the base.

 

Nope, the X52's cord it removable at both ends, so it's never a problem. I have just left them out on the desk since the day i got them. I'v actually never removed the cord from either unit ever.

 

I have never opened it up before so am not sure what to expect - don't want to not be able to put it back together again - and guides anyone can link me to?

 

I cant help you there. I'v never taken it appart before. on the bottom of the throtal unit, i know there is a screw that tightens the throtle (are those the friction locks?) but that's about it. sorry. (oops, i apologized again. lol)

DCS Wishlist: 1) FIX THE DAMN RIVERS!!! 2) Spherical or cylindrical panorama view projection. 3) Enhanced input options (action upon button release, etc). 4) Aircraft flight parameter dump upon exit (stick posn, attitude, rates, accel, control volume, control-surface positions, SAS bias, etc). 5) ADS-33 maneuver courses as static objects. 6) Exposed API or exports of trim position and stick force for custom controllers. 7) Select auto multiple audio devices

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The other thing I'd mention is that if you're experiencing a sticking stick, i.e. notchy resistance to bank and pitch, try rubbing candle wax on the rubber boot at the base.

 

That solution seems more appropriate to the problem I have (never thought much about a wire issue but will bare it in mind if worse happens :S)

 

Will probably open it up this weekend and look what might be the cause of what I described and will definitely give candlewax or similar material on the boot of the stick.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

As for that screw at the bottom aeroscout, I set that up the day I got it to what seemed fine then the throttle wore down the locks and since then any adjustment using that screw has had little effect - it simply determines the overall tension of the throttle and not the emphasis of the locks (if that makes sense) as in the locks are set and if they wear there is nothing that can be done short of fixing the HOTAS.

 

Thanks anyway :)

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Will probably open it up this weekend and look what might be the cause of what I described and will definitely give candlewax or similar material on the boot of the stick.

Just to be clear, you don't need to open it up to do the wax thing, just do it from above, if you see what I mean...

 

 

As for that screw at the bottom aeroscout, I set that up the day I got it to what seemed fine then the throttle wore down the locks and since then any adjustment using that screw has had little effect - it simply determines the overall tension of the throttle and not the emphasis of the locks (if that makes sense) as in the locks are set and if they wear there is nothing that can be done short of fixing the HOTAS.

 

Thanks anyway :)

 

Now I think we're experiencing different things, as you sound like you're describing detents on the throttle travel? My X45 never had any detents, gates, or locks on the throttle, just the adjustable throttle friction.

Win10 x64, 16 GB RAM, Ryzen 5 1600X @3.60 GHz, 500 GB SSD, GeForce 1080 Ti

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Just to be clear, you don't need to open it up to do the wax thing, just do it from above, if you see what I mean...

 

 

 

 

Now I think we're experiencing different things, as you sound like you're describing detents on the throttle travel? My X45 never had any detents, gates, or locks on the throttle, just the adjustable throttle friction.

 

I have several problems with mine the joystick has two alone - one can be solved with the candlewax which i'll try without opening like you said but the other will require opening as the stick has developed a larger actual deadzone (as opposed to a deadzone setup in game)

 

 

The other problem is the throttle which is meant to have to friction locks/detents (not sure if thats what they are called) i.e. when you push the throttle up to 100% movement is fine, when you reach 100% power you will feel a stop in the movement to mark the end of dry thrust - push beyond this and you will use afterburners. This wore down very early on for me so maybe this happened to your stick also?

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The other problem is the throttle which is meant to have to friction locks/detents (not sure if thats what they are called) i.e. when you push the throttle up to 100% movement is fine, when you reach 100% power you will feel a stop in the movement to mark the end of dry thrust - push beyond this and you will use afterburners. This wore down very early on for me so maybe this happened to your stick also?

 

I have also never seen anything that would feel or act like locks or detents in either of my X45's- only the friction screw. Mine loses signal at the top of the throttle axis. It simply stops reading the input and holds my throttle anywhere from 85 to 99%. I know it's a hardware issue because last night I was able to kind of give the throttle a gentle twisting and it would partially recover from it's block @ about 90% to just shy of full. Since I was frogging- I just put up with it as the lost 1% wasn't too big a deal and I didn't feel like rebooting. (doesn't always fix it anyway)

 

Point is- I never thought of the wire going bad either.. wonder if could be that easy... It certainly doesn't look all beaten & bent up..

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Heh mine is definitley an X45 :P

 

Maybe its a slightly different version that wasn't seen as significant to be given its own designation e.g. the earlier X45s were analogue and the newer; digital whatever that is supposed to imply :S - you really aren't missing much in terms of those friction locks though.

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I have also never seen anything that would feel or act like locks or detents in either of my X45's- only the friction screw. Mine loses signal at the top of the throttle axis. It simply stops reading the input and holds my throttle anywhere from 85 to 99%. I know it's a hardware issue because last night I was able to kind of give the throttle a gentle twisting and it would partially recover from it's block @ about 90% to just shy of full. Since I was frogging- I just put up with it as the lost 1% wasn't too big a deal and I didn't feel like rebooting. (doesn't always fix it anyway)

 

Point is- I never thought of the wire going bad either.. wonder if could be that easy... It certainly doesn't look all beaten & bent up..

That's exactly how it behaves when the cable is failing. It's a cheap fix, just takes a little time to do all the soldering.

Win10 x64, 16 GB RAM, Ryzen 5 1600X @3.60 GHz, 500 GB SSD, GeForce 1080 Ti

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