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Improve your X52 precision with this MOD


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I have been talking with guys over at Hyperloby about this, So Im going to ilustrate the new MOD I made for the Saitek X52 thanks to a freind who taught me.

 

It can be donne at ZERO cost and the parts needed are suplied in the stick itself and a couple of thin short screws you probably already have arround your house.

 

Materials:

-2 Very thin screws

-1 Philips screw driver

-Some liquid glue, the more snoty and thick it is the better

 

What it consists:

Pic 1 below will show what you obtain as you move the stick in circles...not exactly what you would be expecting heh? ;)

Pic 2 shows what you obtain with the MOD by moving the stick in a circle...results in a circle duh.

^^^^^^

This is exactly how the stick should have worked from factory in the first place. The stick in its original condition provides reduced manuverability for your aircraft at the corners of your sticks deflection (pitch+roll). Saitek's engineers missed completely a most obvious design simplification wich clearly brings numerous advantages, mechanical and in controlability of nature. Tsss tss great engineers are they... :D

 

Pros:

-slighly Increased manueverability

-More predictable stick response on your aircraft

-with this MOD You will actualy have less moving parts inside that would wear off with time and break your stick. Handy, no? ;)

-If you dont like the MOD you can restore the stick to its original condition.

 

Cons:

-Like all work made by hand -on a piece of hardware like this--, theres always some risk involved if you mess things up.

-Hardest part is finding adequate 2 screws I listed above, see in my next post how those screws should look like.

 

Dont miss second part of this tutorial coming right next So dont post yet before Im donne posting it.

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My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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Ok heres the second part. I will disassemble my stick to show what it looks like from inside and then we shall beggin MOD'ing it:

 

1)Disassemble the bottom of your Stick base.

2)Remove the Hall sensor mount as shown

3)Remove the magnet holders as shown on pic 2 and 3.

4)remove the magnets form their holder with paper clips, you only need 2 of them, Saitek clearly made a simplification mistake by including as many as 4.

5) we need 2 screws as thin as the one on the right. A case screw is too thick for our purpose, youll se why later.

 

Wait for part 3 of this tuturial coming right up.

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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OK heres the final sequence.

 

Once you remove the parts as shown above do, this:

 

1)Observe the hole on the sprocket, I had my MOD in place already when I started making this tutorial so I wanted to avoid ruining it by removing the screw and the magnet already shown in place here. This pic showns how and where to drive your screw to place the magnet. I advise you to give it some glue in Order to avoid the magnet from slipping out of place if you kick the stick arround. :)

2)Place the sensor mount.

3)observe if the magnet moves freely arround the sensor with your stick imput.

4) With a tooth paste (or something pointy made of plasty, not magnetic) and adjust the magnets position untill you achieve what the 4rth picture shows. And repeat all these steps from start for the remainder axis

5) were almost there... :) Screw the square frame and the bottom of the base back in (as shown on the fisrt picture of part 1)

Note the parts that are left out in the end, keep them somewhere safe in case you need to restore the stick to original condition later.

 

Thats it, test your stick, but be mindfull that I wont be held resposible if you are too clumsy and break anything, specialy during the screw placement on the sprocket (1 of part 3, here).

  • Like 1

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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Too much free time? LOL I did all this in 30 mins :lol:

 

If I had so much free time as that I would have finished my stupid litle f-16 3D cockpit project I gave up, precisely for the time issue. Soon I will barely have time at all to play. New Job.

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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easier possible

 

nice solution to cut away mechanical freespace of less 1mm on teeth...

 

but there is an even easier solution to make x52 very precise in roll as in pitch....clipp down (alltime pressed) RESET button on mfd

 

this in an electronical issue what i already communicated with saitek engineering (reply of saitek somewhere on saitek forums)

 

u will see the difference in ur control panel on the red bars where u can see the deadzones..... compare roll and pitch (smoothness and centering by easy realease) with clipped and without clipped button

 

usually if u use much curves ingame u will not notice it that much ....but u will

 

example i am flying combat and formation with no deadzone and no curves at all ( green button of axis control in lockon disabled ) and it works good enuf to make a barrol-roll in slot with nose between rudders of lead-plane

 

 

enjoy

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RvE how the heck did you figure that out? Same with you Pilotasso for that matter lol. WHat I really want to know, is wheter or not you can increase the tension of the stick. It is waaaay too loosy goosy... especially since I've gotten the real feel flying in T-38's.

I love my job :pilotfly:

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interesting idea Pilotasso, i have to give you some rep for doing this but IMHO there's a bigger problem with the X-52 when it comes to precision. Your first pic was a bit weird showing the X-52 moving around in a diamond shape- mine doesn't do that. Mine actually hits all 4 corners. I think saitek really screwed up on the centering on the stick. This is what i mean: You can take one finger and basically "wiggle" the stick and it shows little or no movement at all in the control panel. (This is without any deadzone.) For the X-52, it doesn't realize its being moved around because what's moving is actually the shaft itself connected to the friction cup below. If you would look closely, you would actually see some space around the hole of the friction cup to the shaft itself. This is why the X-52 can be moved a lot without any signal going into it. You may not notice this during normal combat but in close formation, aerial refueling, level flight...etc, this presents a big problem. In fact, take a look at these pic

normal

X-52-01.jpg

moved with one finger (this will NOT send any signal into the game)

X-52-02.jpg

the space difference

X-52-04.jpg

 

So as you can see, when you are trying to do aerial refueling for example, you would actually be pulling up a lot more than you should in order to get the performance you want. I'm personally looking into the problem and see if there's a way to fix it but kinda afraid i would ruin my stick. I was going to find something that would fill the gap between the friction cup to the metal shaft, but the problem is: what material? Can't be paper because it would suck up the oil. I was thinking about scotch tape. Have the sticky part on the walls inside the frinction cup and the smooth part on the metal shaft. I just gotta do a couple layers all around until the stick and the friction cup is at a tight fit.

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I know what you mean, mine does that also, but Im afraid it would require a much bigger MOD than that I could give ya. :D

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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WHat I really want to know, is wheter or not you can increase the tension of the stick. It is waaaay too loosy goosy... especially since I've gotten the real feel flying in T-38's.

 

But you didnt see it before? I made a similar thread to resolve that very problem.

Put a rubber disk between the spring and the sticks base. See the pics below:

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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Yea, I want to know is it possible to disassemble the stick so you can actually take out the spring and shaft..etc. If I can get to that part, putting on the tape on the inside of the friction cup should be pretty easy. I’m going to have to use this guide to help me http://www.saitek.ru/other/x52inside/

Based on those pics, it is possible, just gotta go into more detail. Plus, I need to understand Russian lol. But some guy gave me a translated version so I guess I can do it. If you happen to do this before me, please post some pics.

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To SuperKungFu:

I had the same problem with my old X45. I solved it with

a simpel rubber band like this Vergaser_Gummi4.jpg

I placed it between the rod of the Stick an its moving parts for measuring the movement. similar like on this attached drawing:

(sorry, I have no pics of it and i have done it two years ago, and i will not open it) but now the X45 reacts immediately.

Maybe it works also with the X52 too?!

 

Edit: After I had seen the russian Tutorial (you can translate the whole page easy with Babelfish, just paste the url) I'm certain that it will work also -but a little bit more tricky, because of the "3D rudder twist". remember: more moving parts = less precise

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superkungfu...this lil shaking of stick is very normal...caused by very lil mm betwen slider-plate and metal-hardware axis....and the sliding-space

u can feel that if u hold it (the platte) hard and shake stick...or ir u pull(raise) it and shake-test the mechanics deeper (there is usually no shaking)

 

u cant avoid it ..to do that u must make the hole in the plate very close to the axis radius (no space)....we tried this with metal mod of the plate but ..then it stucks if u move it

 

what u shouldn´t do is using petrol-bases oils cuz this will erade time by time the plate-hole even more. best here is silicon-based grease

 

the mechanics are not the reason in x52 (in normal cases) cuz they are pretty well done....the problem of precision is in the electronics...solution above ..

i mean u can do things like open every part and rebuild it with better fixed solution so the stick never becomes wasted or worn out but this is pain in the ass work

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does anyone know if this was addressed in the X-52 pro or does it still shake? I like a stiff joystick like a cougar but the cost and possible problems kinda turns me away. A logitech 3d pro is actually a pretty cool joystick that's stiff and centered very nicely but its not a HOTAS.

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probably it shakes a lil less...cause more pressure on spring and maybe a more precise hole in the new metall plate

BUT EVERYTHING ELSE INSIDE IS EXCATLY A COPY OF X52..( Mounting, mechanics, hardware-parts)

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does anyone know if this was addressed in the X-52 pro or does it still shake? I like a stiff joystick like a cougar but the cost and possible problems kinda turns me away. A logitech 3d pro is actually a pretty cool joystick that's stiff and centered very nicely but its not a HOTAS.

Yes, I have Logi 3dpro and X52pro ,X52pro is not at all stiff in axis (like Logitech stick) but it is much smoother, well balanced and centres much better.

I do like the stiff Logitech but im hoping to eventually fall for my X52pro.

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lol so i guess its not worth to upgrade. Plus the pro doesn't look as good as the X-52, but then again the X-52 does look like space-like. I even asked saitek about it, they said the black and red color was only a concept color and would change it to make it look fancy for the release of fsx...etc, i guess it turned out to be the final version.

 

I'll look into the X-52 pro in the future, i need to first get a feel of it before i can justify my decision.

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Crazy Shit

 

I have been talking with guys over at Hyperloby about this, So Im going to ilustrate the new MOD I made for the Saitek X52 thanks to a freind who taught me.

 

It can be donne at ZERO cost and the parts needed are suplied in the stick itself and a couple of thin short screws you probably already have arround your house.

 

Materials:

-2 Very thin screws

-1 Philips screw driver

-Some liquid glue, the more snoty and thick it is the better

 

What it consists:

Pic 1 below will show what you obtain as you move the stick in circles...not exactly what you would be expecting heh? ;)

Pic 2 shows what you obtain with the MOD by moving the stick in a circle...results in a circle duh.

^^^^^^

This is exactly how the stick should have worked from factory in the first place. The stick in its original condition provides reduced manuverability for your aircraft at the corners of your sticks deflection (pitch+roll). Saitek's engineers missed completely a most obvious design simplification wich clearly brings numerous advantages, mechanical and in controlability of nature. Tsss tss great engineers are they... :D

 

Pros:

-slighly Increased manueverability

-More predictable stick response on your aircraft

-with this MOD You will actualy have less moving parts inside that would wear off with time and break your stick. Handy, no? ;)

-If you dont like the MOD you can restore the stick to its original condition.

 

Cons:

-Like all work made by hand -on a piece of hardware like this--, theres always some risk involved if you mess things up.

-Hardest part is finding adequate 2 screws I listed above, see in my next post how those screws should look like.

 

Dont miss second part of this tutorial coming right next So dont post yet before Im donne posting it.

 

WoW Pilot, Ur MoD combined with my Find (clipped button) for me feels like having a biological 100% precise connection to my plane.

The only difference what i made to yours is that i took no screw, but 2 magnets for each - fixed with super-double sided tape.

Bandwith and centering and smoothness ablsolute perfect ..thx dude nice find and just 10min work without risk.

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WoW Pilot, Ur MoD combined with my Find (clipped button) for me feels like having a biological 100% precise connection to my plane.

The only difference what i made to yours is that i took no screw, but 2 magnets for each - fixed with super-double sided tape.

Bandwith and centering and smoothness ablsolute perfect ..thx dude nice find and just 10min work without risk.

 

 

 

Nice freddy Krougar writing... :D

 

But yes you can infrom the Saitek staff about this. It seems that they let slip stuff during development. Everytime I think how they designed the sensor magnet mechanism, it almost makes me laugh...its not needed at all! Less moving parts and more precision. If they had figured this out before, the stick would have been alot easier to make and cheaper too. I wonder how the PRO is like from inside.

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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Nice freddy Krougar writing... :D

 

But yes you can infrom the Saitek staff about this. It seems that they let slip stuff during development. Everytime I think how they designed the sensor magnet mechanism, it almost makes me laugh...its not needed at all. Less moving parts and more precision. If they had figured this out before, the stick would have been alot easier to make and cheaper too. I wonder how the PRO is like from inside.

:thumbup: There is always someone who invent, and someone who produce.

I think this is the issue.

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I figured that out the first time. :)

 

But you had to clean and remove the white ooze lubricant first, right?

It would be also nice to let this be noticed by engineers at saitek.

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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Looking cool, but here's my Saitek MOD:

 

Precision2.jpg

 

Screw Saitek, I plugged the joker in, and it flew beautiful, even had the smoothest carrier landing ever. Bit OT, but I've noticed that maybe Saitek should just really work on improving it to where an obsolete stick such as above doesn't outperform the above right out of the box, and not needing the extensive modifications to make it work right. I like my Evo due to it fits my hand nicely, but I didn't tweak anything and as said, had the smoothest carrier landing ever since re buying a Sidewinder Precision 2.

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