[DSC Bios & A10C] Best way to choice and make a CDU Screen (and button)

[Roger01]

Hi

 

I have a 5" hdmi screen (216*160mm visible) and I want to use it for the CDU.

But, there's another best way?

 

I mean the 5" screen is a TFT LCD and have not a real black background coz angles, like this :

 

http://cdn2.ubergizmo.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/tft-vs-ips-view-angle.jpg

 

So, is there any other solution like a screen with only green dot/led or other?

 

If not, I have this screen :

 

http://www.kumantech.com/kuman-5quot-inch-resistive-800x480-hdmi-tft-lcd-display-screen-module-with-touch-panel-pen-sd-card-for-raspberry-pi-3-2-model-b-rpi-1-b-b-a-a-sc5a_p0088.html

 

I think I can't connect it to an Arduino, right?

 

 

And for keayboard, I think this buttons are great?

 

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/50-pcs-B3F-Tactile-Bouton-Poussoir-A14-couleur-chapeau-50-pcs-transparent-cap-50-pcs-Momentan/32831037675.html?

 

Thanks a lot!

Edited October 30, 2017 by Roger01

[Roger01]

I found this (orange.. no green lcd ):

 

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-lots-1pcs-UNO-R3-MEGA328P-with-usb-2-4-Inch-TFT-Touch-LCD-Screen-Module/2029995980.html?

 

160 * 128 dots orange (black background).

I think it work with arduino and dcs bios?

 

 

 

Why I want to use a LCD on arduino? Because with the LCD 5" the writing font is affected by the anti aliasing and it's not very clear. And the backlight of the 5" LCD (TFT) is bad (too shinny, etc...)

[GSS Rain]

Adafruit 3.5” TFT LCD is a closer match. I’d recommend lighted push buttons or a taller non lighted one so you could insert a lighting strip underneath.

[FSFIan]

For driving a TFT display for the CDU over a SPI interface, I'd look into Arduino-compatible boards with an ARM processor. An ATMega328 can drive one, but you'll get a lot of lag when it has to push lots of pixels on a full display update (e.g. when switching to another page).

[Roger01]

Adafruit 3.5” TFT LCD is a closer match. I’d recommend lighted push buttons or a taller non lighted one so you could insert a lighting strip underneath.

 

Ok thanks a lot for your precision.

 

Ian;3280781']For driving a TFT display for the CDU over a SPI interface' date=' I'd look into Arduino-compatible boards with an ARM processor. An ATMega328 can drive one, but you'll get a lot of lag when it has to push lots of pixels on a full display update (e.g. when switching to another page).[/quote']

 

And the Arduino Due (or Zero) is not more powerfull for this?

[GSS Rain]

Thank you Ian. Glad you are back. :-) I used the LCD in the 8-bit mode instead of SPI in order to drive it a little bit faster. I could still see the display flicker as it updated each line though. I actually have two ARM arduino boards. I haven’t had a chance yet though to use them with DCS-Bios but that’s my goal.

https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-due-without-headers

 

Yes I think that is what Ian was saying was to use the Due or Zero. It’s faster but as you know it’s a 3.3V system instead of 5V. So double check that the LCD is compatible with 3.3 V logic.

 

Another goal I had was to use DCS-Bios on my desktop to drive a graphics ADI and HSI on a laptop computer using processing.org software. I hooked up an arduino mega and used a CP2104 to connect to laptop usb. I could see the latitude and longitude data on the laptop sent by DCS-Bios. Just need to write some processing code to have the data move the graphics for the ADI and HSI.

[Roger01]

I see the datasheet for the and it say :

 

 

So I think is impossible :

 

Output voltage "H" VOH VDD-0.3 VDD V : pin DB0@DB7

 

VDD = 4.5v mini so 4.5-0.3 = 4.2v mini. :(

[GSS Rain]

Good catch. If you powered it with 4.5V then the lowest possible Voutput is 4.5-0.3 = 4.2V. The worst possible Voutput would be just 4.5V. So looks like you would need a 3.3V to 5.0V bi-directional Level shifter. This one below would handle only 4 I/O pins. Maybe you could find one that handles more. You would need about 11 pins possibly. 8 data and CE, WR, and maybe C/D.

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12009

[GSS Rain]

The Adafruit LCD is 3.3V compatible but you would have to power it from a 3.3V power supply. But to be on the safe side I would recommend a level shifter with this LCD as well. This data sheet isn’t as clear as the T6963C as it doesn’t state the voltage level of the I/O pins. It only states that Vcc can be between 3 and 5 volts.

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-3-5-color-320x480-tft-touchscreen-breakout/overview

[Roger01]

Thanks for the tip, I did't know this thing.

 

I just need to buy 2 of it (8 Canals)

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/I2C-IIC-8-Channel-Logic-Level-Converter-Module-Bi-Directional-for-Arduino/32783676584.html

 

But using a shifter like this, that will not cause interference?

 

You confirme for now, the 160*128 LCD + an arduino (Due is better than Zero no? More frequency CPU) + this shifter, can run the CDU display?

 

(If you know a LCD 160*120/128 GREEN/BLACK background, I don't say no for a link! :D )

 

[EDIT] I prefere do not buy a TFT Screen because of that thing :

 

[GSS Rain]

The shifters are super fast because it’s just a single transistor gate making the shift. I don’t know of any other LCDs but if they make an orange one I would think maybe they make a green one as well. Well good luck with your Cockpit.

[Warhog]

Another goal I had was to use DCS-Bios on my desktop to drive a graphics ADI and HSI on a laptop computer using processing.org software. I hooked up an arduino mega and used a CP2104 to connect to laptop usb. I could see the latitude and longitude data on the laptop sent by DCS-Bios. Just need to write some processing code to have the data move the graphics for the ADI and HSI.

 

Although I’m converting a real ADI for use in my cockpit! I would very much like to see how you make out with creating a graphic ADI driven by DCS BIOS. I hope you will post your progress with goal.

 

Best of luck with it.:thumbup:

[strike277]

Although I’m converting a real ADI for use in my cockpit! I would very much like to see how you make out with creating a graphic ADI driven by DCS BIOS. I hope you will post your progress with goal.

 

Best of luck with it.:thumbup:

 

Hi Warhog,

I sent you a Pm a few days ago. ;-)

[GSS Rain]

Driving a real ADI sounds like fun. How do you buy a used real one but at the same time know that it still works? I tried buying an HSI on ebay but got out bid. I didn’t want to go more than $400 on something I wasn’t sure it still worked. Are you using MIL-I-27193 data sheet to find the pin-out or were you lucking enough to get the install manual?

[Deadman]

You won't know if the ARU 2B/A or you may find an ARU 11 cheaper. I would not go over $200.00 for a unit on eBay. You will wind up opening the ADI the flags and bars operate on 5V DC the ball 400 Hz 28 V Dc.

[Roger01]

The shifters are super fast because it’s just a single transistor gate making the shift. I don’t know of any other LCDs but if they make an orange one I would think maybe they make a green one as well. Well good luck with your Cockpit.

 

I ask if they have a Green LCD, but they don't have. :(

 

He (vendor) say to buy a TFT (beurk!) or a OLED. But there's no 160*120 (minimum pixel) OLED Screen.

 

So, I think about to make everything in orange.

[GSS Rain]

The next best choice if you wanted to stay with that model would be if they made a white LCD with a black background. Then you could have used a green plastic filter to place on top of it but a filter only works if the color is white. If you place a green filter on top of the orange then you’d just get a different shade of orange color. But I like the Adafruit 3.5” TFT. The CDU only shows green text so I haven’t knoticed any off angle viewing issues with it. The other thing I liked was the size. You don’t want to use a LCD that’s bigger than 3.5” because then you wouldn’t have room to place your line select keys that are on the sides. Also total width of the CDU should be no larger than 5.75” or it would be too large to fit in right console. The only complaint I have with the Adafruit LCD is the resolution. It’s 320 x 480. Means the font characters are a little blocky looking and not very sharp as compared to a modern computer monitor. But it’s not too bad.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Neewer-Photographic-12-Piece-Set-Universal-Flash-Speedlite-Color-Filter-Kit-for-Canon-Nikon-Sony-Pentax-Olympus-Panasonic-Camera-Flash/721455979?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=12355&adid=22222222227093273249&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=s&wl2=t&wl3=207568380400&wl4=pla-338136951823&wl5=9028743&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=117437230&wl11=online&wl12=721455979&wl13=&veh=sem

Edited November 3, 2017 by GSS Rain

[Warhog]

Hi Warhog,

I sent you a Pm a few days ago. ;-)

 

Sorry but I haven't received any emails in a couple of weeks except one from Ian a few days ago.

[Warhog]

Driving a real ADI sounds like fun. How do you buy a used real one but at the same time know that it still works? I tried buying an HSI on ebay but got out bid. I didn’t want to go more than $400 on something I wasn’t sure it still worked. Are you using MIL-I-27193 data sheet to find the pin-out or were you lucking enough to get the install manual?

 

I pulled out all of the synchros and replaced them with stepper motors. Easy Driver boards, Arduino Pro Mini's and DCS BIOS drives it all. Servos provide movement for the glide slope, ILS and bank indicator. I never wanted a working unit. Only that the ball was intact and the bezel unbroken.

[Roger01]

The next best choice if you wanted to stay with that model would be if they made a white LCD with a black background. Then you could have used a green plastic filter to place on top of it but a filter only works if the color is white. If you place a green filter on top of the orange then you’d just get a different shade of orange color. But I like the Adafruit 3.5” TFT. The CDU only shows green text so I haven’t knoticed any off angle viewing issues with it. The other thing I liked was the size. You don’t want to use a LCD that’s bigger than 3.5” because then you wouldn’t have room to place your line select keys that are on the sides. Also total width of the CDU should be no larger than 5.75” or it would be too large to fit in right console. The only complaint I have with the Adafruit LCD is the resolution. It’s 320 x 480. Means the font characters are a little blocky looking and not very sharp as compared to a modern computer monitor. But it’s not too bad.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Neewer-Photographic-12-Piece-Set-Universal-Flash-Speedlite-Color-Filter-Kit-for-Canon-Nikon-Sony-Pentax-Olympus-Panasonic-Camera-Flash/721455979?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=12355&adid=22222222227093273249&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=s&wl2=t&wl3=207568380400&wl4=pla-338136951823&wl5=9028743&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=117437230&wl11=online&wl12=721455979&wl13=&veh=sem

 

Thanks again for the reply.

I think I go to use an Adafruit 3.5" for the 3.3v and a DUE arduino.

 

(this must work no? : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Shippping-libre-LCD-module-3-5-pouce-TFT-LCD-cran-3-5-UNO-R3-Conseil-et/32679537214.html )

 

I'm looking to buy this :

 

http://pcflights.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_62_64&products_id=358

 

(and by extension, this : http://pcflights.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_62_65&products_id=340 )

 

Because thinking about building the panel drives me crazy (a lot of engraved button, don't find any button like this). So it's noticed : "Panel is designed for using with 3.5" LCD/TFT display."

 

It's not the cheaper solution, but I don't have a CNC machine etc.. juste a small 3D Print.

Edited November 5, 2017 by Roger01

[GSS Rain]

Yeah, that’s why I went with PCflights.com for the face plates. You’ll have to come up with a method to hold the LCD, I see that one doesnt have any mounting holes. I have the UFC as well. It’s mostly wired. It’s counter intuitive but the vector board should have been slightly larger than the face plate. I made mine slightly smaller and when I screwed it together, the panel bows because of it. You can’t drill the vector board hole right on the edge. For the Master Caution button, I’m going to order the anuunciator that says Master Caution from PCflights.com ($3.25) and use a hack saw to cut the top part off right at the ridge. Then use the 3D printer and translucent filament to print a new bottom that’s 1mm thick. Then super glue that on top of my yellow lighted tactile push buttons. (Got to be careful not to let overflow run down the sides and ruin the button. Done that before.) It will slip right through the opening. Actually there would be a small gap around the button as the opening is slightly larger than the annunciator but I may just 3D print a black shroud to close it out. That’s the easiest way for me to make a Master Caution push button indicator.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4xdTr8IidWTellFRDRheGpUaE0

http://pcflights.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=46_50&products_id=245

[Roger01]

Thanks for pictures. For the LCD, it's not a problem vite my 3D Print. I can make a support plate.

 

For the UFC and CDU I was making a pcb to do a matrix output, but I need to buy UFC and CDU to get the dimensions (milimeters) to do that.

 

And I have a glue gun if needed to maintain the pcb.

I note for the annunciator.

 

[Edit] Wow 12€ for shipping cost only for the annunciator even if I buy panels, 12€ in addition of the other shipping cost.

Edited November 5, 2017 by Roger01

[GSS Rain]

Your a smart man. The keypad matrix will save you on the I/O count. I think the latest arduino comes with the keypad.h library.

 

I pulled out all of the synchros and replaced them with stepper motors. Easy Driver boards, Arduino Pro Mini's and DCS BIOS drives it all. Servos provide movement for the glide slope, ILS and bank indicator. I never wanted a working unit. Only that the ball was intact and the bezel unbroken.

 

Thanks Warhog. That is really cool. I’d like to see your ADI when your done. But getting that to work got to be very difficult. That must take some mad skills.

[Roger01]

I'm not very smart ;) but I read a lot this (and other) forum, to see the maximum of cockpits and constructions to know what I must to do.

 

I'm seeking (a long time after) for stepper motors too (gauge) but I see is realy hard to make a 360° without return back like this (this is a 180° servo) :

 

[GSS Rain]

That’s the Tower Pro SG90 micro Servo motor which is 180 degree rotation.

http://www.towerpro.com.tw/product/sg90-7/

If you like that form fit function of that Servo motor type but want 360 degree rotation then you could go with the FS90R. I’m not sure if you need a separate zero crossing. I wouldn’t think so. I actually have this one but hadn’t gotten around to trying it out.

https://www.pololu.com/product/2820

I’ve seen some on the forums use the VID60 series stepper motors for the altimeter though. It has a built in zero crossing which you will need to sync the position of the needle with the simulation. I tried to order some twice from China but they never came. So I don’t have any first hand experience with their operation.

http://www.vid.wellgain.com/product.aspx?sortid=31