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spitfire on fire!!! DCS v2.1


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within 5min at 2700 rpm, 8lbs boost the spit catches fire?

 

wasn't there automatic rad setting on this?

 

Watch the temps, rads are not as effective at 30 degrees as at -10 degrees

 

Also, watch your speed

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within 5min at 2700 rpm, 8lbs boost the spit catches fire?

 

wasn't there automatic rad setting on this?

 

Yes rad shutters are in auto mode (switch forward) . If the ambient temperature is high, say 30c, the coolant is going to need the shutters wide open (switch back position) which is what I select when charging around after the Yellow Noses!:smilewink:

 

What was the coolant temperature reading before the "fire"? You shouldn't get a fire before the radiator busts with plumes of white smoke, which is actually steam. If the engines on fire it's gotta be something else?

 

Normally with a boost of 8+ I get at least 10 minutes at 2800/3000 in combat?

 

I don't think they have finished the Spit yet. The model is different again with 2.1, the ground handling is smoother with the brakes not bouncing the tail wheel all over the place!

 

Cheers.

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What was your airspeed? If you drop below 180 miles an hour, at those settings you will quickly cook your engine.

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Well, radiators open fully on auto as well (at least they used to before the patch), just might not do it fast enough in some situations. Still, 8 lbs @ 2700 doesn't sound excessive by any means, but maybe average 220 mph is not enough?

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My rads don't seem to be opening even when temps go up to about 90.

 

Not helped by the fact that in the 2v2 dogfighting mission the wingman invariably dies in the first couple of minutes, quickly leading to a 2v1 situation...:(

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I'm also having issues with rudder controls, they sometimes work and sometimes don't?

 

 

I can not get any slide slippage any longer like I used to..

 

I also can not get a snapshot anylonger before this patch..

 

I can not get a proper slide flip also...

 

I have tried 0 input curves to 50 and the same issues it like the setting isn't working to at all, it seems locked in default.

the input GUI shows everything mapped and working but in game it's not the same.

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DSSRapidfire, the patch reset rudder assist in the options. You need to turn it off again. Also Im pretty sure that if you're cooking your engine, you are not managing your engine temps well enough, can you post a track please?


Edited by OnlyforDCS

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My rads don't seem to be opening even when temps go up to about 90.

 

Not helped by the fact that in the 2v2 dogfighting mission the wingman invariably dies in the first couple of minutes, quickly leading to a 2v1 situation...:(

 

 

Keep in mind the temp treshold for the auto-mechanism is set to 115 degrees.

i7 9700K @ stock speed, single GTX1070, 32 gigs of RAM, TH Warthog, MFG Crosswind, Win10.

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Keep in mind the temp treshold for the auto-mechanism is set to 115 degrees.

 

Ok. Does that mean the radiator won't open until it gets to 115(?!), or that I shouldn't be letting my temps get up that high in the first place?

 

Are manual rads even available in the mk9? (Sorry, I know that info is probably available in the manual...)

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Ok. Does that mean the radiator won't open until it gets to 115(?!), or that I shouldn't be letting my temps get up that high in the first place?

 

Are manual rads even available in the mk9? (Sorry, I know that info is probably available in the manual...)

 

Yep, they'll start opening only after reaching 115. Although, just like in DCS Mustang, because of inherent inertia of the whole system, it's good idea to avoid situations with sudden temp increase before they can react (for example quick boost changes when speed is low and engine is already somewhat hot).

 

Manual mode is uhmmm... kind of available - unlike in the Mustang, here we've got only simple switch, which disables auto and blows shutters 100% wide open for good. An emergency switch to be honest, though some guys here seem to like fighting with it on, despite some drag penalty.

i7 9700K @ stock speed, single GTX1070, 32 gigs of RAM, TH Warthog, MFG Crosswind, Win10.

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Yep, they'll start opening only after reaching 115. Although, just like in DCS Mustang, because of inherent inertia of the whole system, it's good idea to avoid situations with sudden temp increase before they can react (for example quick boost changes when speed is low and engine is already somewhat hot).

 

Manual mode is uhmmm... kind of available - unlike in the Mustang, here we've got only simple switch, which disables auto and blows shutters 100% wide open for good. An emergency switch to be honest, though some guys here seem to like fighting with it on, despite some drag penalty.

 

Ok, thanks for that. It's only really with the Normandy map out that I've started to play around much with the Mk9 so a lot to learn. I think I've seen some people talking about keeping rads open manually when fighting but I think I'll try and up my temp-management game first.

 

Anyway, cheers for the info.

 

Hey scotchegg !

 

Nice to see you around here too :-)

 

Hello Jose, you old dog! Have you got the Normandy map? Absolutely amazing. Not sure if the moon phases are all correct for 1944 though:):):):)

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I've been thinking about a tactic to use when engaged by a 109 (that is correctly BnZing you and not trying to turn fight).

 

I usually leave the rads on auto, but in the above case I find that I usually climb slowly after the 109, trying to get to an altitude where I can use my supercahrger and get a fight on somewhat more even terms. It works for me, but last night for example I was a bit careless with my throttle management and climb speed and my engine blew. Managed to make a safe landing, but should have thought about turning the rads to full open. :)

 

In any case, my point is. If you are forcing a high altitude engagement, turn off auto rads, and go full open. You will be slow in the climb anyway, so the little bit of extra drag won't make much of a difference but it might save your engine and your life until you get high enough to push the fight to the 109.

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you should use the manual switch when you know you are going to be boosting for a long time.

you know the coolant temps are going to go up and need full radiator.

so pre-empt it to keep oil temps within operating parameters longer.

 

when you reach 115 degrees put it back on auto.

so it closes when you take the boost off and cool down.

 

when you begin the death spiral with the k4 from 22000ft.

 

you do not want to cool the oil down below operating temperatures.

that is as bad as letting it get to hot.

you have an under lubricated engine and engine damage. to hot and the oil is to runny. to cold and the oil is to thick.

oil temps will kill you before water temps. usually. so the oil temp is the one to watch. an under lubricated engine makes extra heat for the water coolant. and airspeeds over 300 produce a lot of cooling.

so if oil temp is low and coolant is high... you will be cooking your engine.

 

if you play rise of flight then you know all about this :)

baulked more engines through diving with the engine on idle, than cooked on full throttle.

 

anyone killed a spitfire with cold in 2.1?

 

something to try this bank holiday afternoon, as its raining.

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ScotchEgg, mind you, I think all DCS warbirds are emitting a distinctive (although a bit too quiet for my taste) bass rumble noise when their overheating engines are about to seize (for somewhere between dozen seconds and half-ish minute). Never tried how audible it is in the Spit, but in Mustang it's enough to warn the player - If you react fast enough, you can save the engine (unlike in CloD, where after the onset of "grinding" sounds, you were beyond the "point of no return").

i7 9700K @ stock speed, single GTX1070, 32 gigs of RAM, TH Warthog, MFG Crosswind, Win10.

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The model is different again with 2.1, the ground handling is smoother with the brakes not bouncing the tail wheel all over the place!

 

Sure that's not just to do with the type of runway in Normandy compared to the concrete of NTTR and Caucasus? The hard runways will be much less forgiving.

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