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Want to use SimPed without Cougar


TripRodriguez
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Hey guys, I have an old beat up set of SimPed pedals that hook up to the Cougar base with the gameport type plug.

 

I'd like to use these to build my helicopter pedals but don't want to have to use a Cougar to hook them up. I'd like to use the bodnar board or similar.

 

I did some searching and didn't find any confirmed solutions, anyone know of a way to do this that definitely works?

 

I don't need the toe brake function, one of the toe sensors is shot and I don't need them anyway for helicopters. The pedals use digital hall sensors so it's not just a simple matter of hooking pots to an arduino or bodnar.

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Actually, it should be just a 'simple matter' of hooking them to an arduino. Three wires for each. The bigger effort will be the sketch to make it work.

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What makes it different from hooking up a pot is you need to know which one is gnd, vcc, and vref *before* plugging it in because Halls are intolerant of being hooked up with reversed polarity. They will dead-short and quickly let out their magic smoke if you do it backwards. Hooking up a pot backwards on the other hand just makes it work the opposite direction.

 

Once you know which wire is which however, pot/Hall it doesn't matter, at least with analog Halls like what would be in there. Digital voodoo ones like MX90333 (Warthog/T16k sensor) are a different animal.

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I'd like to use the bodnar board or similar.

 

BU0836 is just a bit expensive - and overkill for use just one axis - but has advantage to be simple to use.

Anyway a ~6$ Arduino will do the job.

 

Since Simped is a very old project ~1999 their controller resolution is very low - even more than CH pedals - according the guys there:

 

https://riseofflight.com/forum/topic/26026-hall-sensor-wireing-simped/

 

Will be good replace the HALL sensors used too, for example using Honeywell SS495A1 or Allegro A1394. All is cheap. But test with original first in the new USB controller, since they are already installed.

 

All this involve DIY work - is not "PnP". :)

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Agreed, knowing the pinout of the sensor is important. Once over that hurdle, I know I have seen examples of Arduino projects using digital hall sensors, somewhere in the googleverse. Hacking something together from other examples shouldn't prove all that complicated.

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Thanks guys! I'll have to report back with more detail as I proceed, I'll probably be opening up the SimPeds to check out the sensor today.

 

I think I'm going to have a Bodnar running my cyclic, so if hooking up to that is an option that's probably what I'll want to do.

 

The only reason I was going to use the SimPeds was to use the sensor and bearings since I already have them on hand and I need to keep costs to a minimum.

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...I have seen examples of Arduino projects using digital hall sensors, somewhere in the googleverse.

 

How about Arduino PRO Micro + MMJoy2 firmware + TLE5011 digital contactless sensor - in DCSW Input forum? :D

 

I think I'm going to have a Bodnar running my cyclic, so if hooking up to that is an option that's probably what I'll want to do.

The only reason I was going to use the SimPeds was to use the sensor and bearings since I already have them on hand and I need to keep costs to a minimum.

 

Yes, you are buying that Microheli cyclic with BU0836, that has unused axes inputs, so just use one for rudder pedal.

Unless want a standalone rudder no reason for buy another USB controller.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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How about Arduino PRO Micro + MMJoy2 firmware + TLE5011 digital contactless sensor - in DCSW Input forum? :D

 

 

 

Yes, you are buying that Microheli cyclic with BU0836, that has unused axes inputs, so just use one for rudder pedal.

Unless want a standalone rudder no reason for buy another USB controller.

 

Exactly =D. I didn't expect to be able to hook up the SimPed as simple as this. I did try hooking it up just like a POT a year or so ago and didn't seem to get any signal from it. I think I hooked it up to the throttle pot axis of a T16000M PCB most likely. I don't quite recall.

 

I did just hook it up via the Cougar, and it does still work fine.

 

I'm still looking at what I've got to figure out how I can build my pedal rig using only things I've already got, I'm flat broke for the rest of the month. :doh:

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Demo of my 6DOF Motion VR Sim:

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Exactly =D. I didn't expect to be able to hook up the SimPed as simple as this. I did try hooking it up just like a POT a year or so ago and didn't seem to get any signal from it. I think I hooked it up to the throttle pot axis of a T16000M PCB most likely. I don't quite recall.

 

I did just hook it up via the Cougar, and it does still work fine.

 

I'm still looking at what I've got to figure out how I can build my pedal rig using only things I've already got, I'm flat broke for the rest of the month. :doh:

 

T16k uses 3.3vdc for vref and is not enough to excite most Halls, which generally have a 4.5vdc minimum. IIRC though, the Alegro sensors I use (A1324) also work at 3.3v even though they're rated at 5v. There's also a Honeywell sensor that works at 3.3v.

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Thanks Okona. I actually think I am going to be able to use the SimPed parts for my pedals after all. I cut them in half tonight :blink: and mounted the sensor half behind where my pedals will be mounted. Now I just have to see if my half ass plan for linkage works out. :lol:

 

Assuming that works out, when I get my microhelis.de cyclic I'll try hooking them up to the bodnar.

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Demo of my 6DOF Motion VR Sim:

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I need to get my home made collective working while I wait for my microhelis.de cyclic (with Bodnar board) to come so I can hook up to that.

 

I have an Arduino UNO off brand copy so going to try using that.


Edited by TripRodriguez

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Turned out the cheap arduino copy didn't have the functionality to run UnoJoy so I was forced to move to the Teensy 2.0++ and boy am I glad I did!

 

Contrary to what I read online a few hours ago (wait, you mean not everything on the internet is true!?) I found the Teensy easier to deal with thanks to good instructions on their site. Of course, it helps that I had already fumbled around with the Arduino software and figured out the extreme basics as I am using TeensyDuino and still have to work with the Arduino software.

 

Anyway, My Teensy 2.0++ is now a joystick! All I have to do now is wiring, but it's time for bed. Hopefully I'll have a working collective tomorrow! I'm going to mount my crosswinds and modded warthog for some test flights this week! :joystick:

 

Added bonus, this isn't wasted effort as I will use the Teensy to operate some of my switches and rotaries that will be going into the Gazelle pit over the next couple months.


Edited by TripRodriguez

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Turned out the cheap arduino copy didn't have the functionality to run UnoJoy

 

Just as curiosity what is the model of this cheap Arduino?

 

Teensy boards is very good, and ++2.0 has pins for dozens of inputs, what eventually can be used for additional buttons, switches, encoders. :thumbup:

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Just as curiosity what is the model of this cheap Arduino?

 

Teensy boards is very good, and ++2.0 has pins for dozens of inputs, what eventually can be used for additional buttons, switches, encoders. :thumbup:

 

I originally bought the Teensy for that reason but my friend who knew C language unexpectedly died shortly afterward so it has sat on the shelf.

 

I'm very happy to know I can use it for what I need so easily! I might have to look at encoders I guess for more buttons than pins right? That will get me in over my head immediately and leave me completely at the mercy of folks on the internet to walk me through it! I will have several dozen switches and controls in my Gazelle cockpit, with separate computer for weapon control side multi-crew when it's finished.

 

As for my clone Arduino Uno, This appears to be it right here: http://www.gearbest.com/development-boards/pp_62975.html?currency=USD&vip=760186&gclid=CjwKEAiArIDFBRCe_9DJi6Or0UcSJAAK1nFvnDn9SAejTOEc-nq7ObDLGN15bUXO1nTEsfAnljoNBBoC6RDw_wcB


Edited by TripRodriguez

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Demo of my 6DOF Motion VR Sim:

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