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MPCNC so far so good


hansangb

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I was finally able to finish building the MPCNC.

 

Now I'm on another journey to learn about CAD/CAM and have settled on OnShape CAD, estlcam, and Repetier Host. The last two because they natively support Marlin firmware used by MPCNC.

 

So I'll report back with my success in cutting acrylic after I get proficient.

 

Wish me luck folks - disregard the arrows...I superimposed that to ask a question.

 

Xia5TXU.jpg

hsb

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i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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The printed parts bundle cost $245. It has all the motors, boards, etc.

The plastic parts bundle cost: $190.

 

The above two kits have everything but the rails.

 

I ordered the 1" outer diameter stainless steel from Speedy Metals for $65.

a) Qty 4: 3.5" for the base

b) Qty 2: 11.5" for the Z axis

c) Qty 6: 22.5" for the X and Y axis.

 

Then I ordered the Dewalt DW660 for about $50

 

If I had to do it again, I would just cut the rails myself. SpeedyMetals folks weren't as accurate as I thought. I had to cut and burr anyway.

 

So about $550 for the whole thing.

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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The printed parts bundle cost $245. It has all the motors, boards, etc.

The plastic parts bundle cost: $190.

 

The above two kits have everything but the rails.

 

I ordered the 1" outer diameter stainless steel from Speedy Metals for $65.

a) Qty 4: 3.5" for the base

b) Qty 2: 11.5" for the Z axis

c) Qty 6: 22.5" for the X and Y axis.

 

Then I ordered the Dewalt DW660 for about $50

 

If I had to do it again, I would just cut the rails myself. SpeedyMetals folks weren't as accurate as I thought. I had to cut and burr anyway.

 

So about $550 for the whole thing.

 

Hi hansangb, Congrats on that machine. That actually is not a bad price for getting in to the CNC world. Funny everyday I read and look for build cnc diy kits not once did this guys web page came up. But thanks for sharing cause I am pretty interested to see how it works.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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@Goblin:

Looks like a DW660 router to me.

 

@ Cichlidfan, Yup, the price is pretty attractive. And after watching two hours of video on OnShape (browser based CAD) I realized it's not that daunting to learn the system. It's not at all like the old AutoCAD days where you needed another monochrome monitor just to see the key bindings. It is almost click and CAD!

 

@Brewnix, yup, will keep you updated. Just coming up to speed on "life" and honey-do projects before I can get back to my CNC! :)

 

 

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

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i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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In case someone lands here from Google search. It turns out, you can use SketchUp to generate G-Code with SketchUCam plug in. And it supports Marlin FW used by MPCNC.

 

The reason why I'm now favoring SketcUp to OnShape is that SketchUp allows you to use Windows fonts - including MS 33558 font (available here)

 

So this means you can cut and label in one program, then go straight to G-Code.

 

The SketchUCam plugin is here: http://www.phlatforum.com/xenforo/threads/sketchucam-download.3128/

 

The two things you have to change are:

Under Tools->Phlatboyz-> Options->MachineOptions, set the “Comments use Bracket or semicolon” to “false” (for semicolons) and under Tools->Phlatboyz->Options->FeatureOptions, set “Force all gcodes on for Marlin” to “true”.

 

There are plenty of SketchUCam intros on the Phlatboyz site - including this intro:

 

Will report back after getting through the new years.

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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  • 1 month later...

First test cut. Took a while to get around to it. Have to order some replacement parts, etc. But first test was a success. A short video of it

 

https://goo.gl/photos/9RAhN26TcAqephYv5

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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Cool hansangb. I know this is just a test, but you need a way to have the angraving plate fixed flat to the surface. Otherwise you engraving depth is going to be uneven. Think some of the others use double sided tape.

 

Cheers

Hans

 

Hansangb agree with the above, Metal n Wood put me onto double sided tape, I use the stuff that sticks carpet tiles down.

 

I also found my bed (which was MDF) was uneven depending on where I had screwed it down, changed to a piece of pine shelving which seems to hold its flat uniformity.

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Cool hansangb. I know this is just a test, but you need a way to have the angraving plate fixed flat to the surface. Otherwise you engraving depth is going to be uneven. Think some of the others use double sided tape.

 

Cheers

Hans

 

Absolutely. I'm going to create a jig that holds it down tight. And I'll have scrap on the bottom when I have to punch holes into the acrylic (so it won't burr as much).

 

I'm just trying out various CAM's and Gcode that support Marlin natively. It's a whole different learning process. :)

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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The bottom is actually "pricey" pine with accurate flat surface. Since I'm learning my CAM and toolpath problems, I stuck an old plywood so I won't damage my flat surface.

 

Fun stuff, but it took a while to get my CAM/Gcode issues worked out. It wasn't hard, but it's so new to me that it took me a while to understand that you need CAD to CAM to CNC.

 

I had thought you can go straight from CAD/Visio drawing to cutting. LOL.

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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Wondering on the wood beds that are not even could you use the router to cut it flat and even to the spindle?

 

Problem is if the uneven beds are not a fault of the CNC alignment then it can change. E.G. if its moisture because the bed isnt secured, you might have to even it every time you cut.

 

The other thing, depending on your machine, if its your X and Y rails that perhaps bow it wont solve it.

 

That aside, it sounds like a good idea for levelling the bed if everything else remains the same.

 

PS. I am certainly no pro on this, just my thoughts.

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The bottom is actually "pricey" pine with accurate flat surface. Since I'm learning my CAM and toolpath problems, I stuck an old plywood so I won't damage my flat surface.

 

Fun stuff, but it took a while to get my CAM/Gcode issues worked out. It wasn't hard, but it's so new to me that it took me a while to understand that you need CAD to CAM to CNC.

 

I had thought you can go straight from CAD/Visio drawing to cutting. LOL.

 

Thats what i am trying mate, i cant seem to mill/pocket/cut anything to 3mm even though its 3mm plexi it still goes into the bed....got the bed flat thanks to expensive pine but its being cut into every panel!

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Wondering on the wood beds that are not even could you use the router to cut it flat and even to the spindle?

 

That is the method we have been using on the router we build. There is a sheet of MDF on top as a sacrificing laver. When it becomes too rough then we just roste it flat again with a 10mm bit. It's been working ok for us.

 

Cheers

Hans


Edited by Hansolo
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That's a good idea. Just shave off layers as you use them.

 

I'm redoing my MPCNC. The XY rails are too long. They are very rigid so I don't have to worry about bowing, but moving it around is a pain in the ass. Since I'm not milling/engraving/printing anything large, I'll reduce the 22 inch X/Y rails down to 15 Inch or so.

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

OK, finished rebuilding it. Added end-stops on the X min/max, Y min/max, and Z max. I also added Z touch plate to Z-min. This is a 30 second video of the test with a pen connected to the gantry.

 

I finally settled on Cut2D from Vectric for CAD and CAM. It's *incredibly* easy yet powerful. I was using OnShape and ESTLCAM (both are good, but prefer Vectric). And Repetier-Host for the printing/routing.

 

http://bit.ly/mpcnc1 (the ....embedding) doesn't seem to be working for me.

 


Edited by hansangb

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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