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RomeoKilo's Pit


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Really Great Work RK!

I don't want to rain on your parade in the slightest and hope you will appreciate this rarely seen detail. The interior of the instrument frame is grey, not green.

See attached.

Cheers

Matt

AMI_A10_Production_Testing.thumb.jpg.1cefcdd8f917fa1f047100b6a21fb567.jpg

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Hello RK!

 

Your pit is exactly what I would like to achieve with mine! :)

 

We are a group of 5 people in Christchurch who are building A10C Cockpits!

 

Would you be interested in sharing the .stl files for the panels, by any chance?

That would be very generous of you!

 

Thanks,

E.

Kaby Lake @ 4.6Ghz - Gigabyte Z170-D3H - 16Gb DDR4 - Gigabyte GTX 1080 G1 OC - Samsung EVO 250Gb SSD - Seagate 1 Tb HDD - HTC Vive - Rift CV1

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Cheers guys.

 

If I see what you've done ATM, I could imagine, you'll find some satisfaction with this:

 

http://mfg.simundza.com/products

 

I couldn't never afford it. Never. But maybe...

 

I've seen the great reviews on the MFG's, but down here in Oz it would cost me $700. I'm not THAT keen- maybe if they were exact A10C replicas. I will probably hack up and improve some Saiteks- or build my own later on.

 

Sweet, I really loved your Obutto Pit but this one is just amazing, great job!

You have unfortunately for my wallet, got me obsessed with getting my own pit together.

Who needs to retire anyway?

Anyone have a need for a slightly used kidney?

 

It actually not that super expensive if you build things yourself.

 

I've dropped around $1500 AU on the pit itself (not including the 'investment' i made in tools).

 

Plus I could of saved $500 odd if i had of cut the ply myself, which is easily doable with a $30 jigsaw and a steady hand. I just wanted it done quick!

 

The cost of electronics has dropped massively now we don't have to use Bodnars/Phidgets/GGG/etc etc using cheap Arduino boards with DCS-BIOS.

Plus switches, rotaries and pots bought in bulk from China are cheap.

For example- I could pay about .80c per tactile switch for the UFC, CMSP CDU if i bought locally- I just ordered 500 of the same thing from China for $8.50 total.

 

Although every now and then I troll through eBay and buy the odd mil spec switch just to liven it up a bit. :smilewink:

 

Also- when you consider that $1500 I have spent on the pit is the cost of one projector (of which i plan to eventually have three), and only half the RRP of the gaming PC I built to run the damn thing anyway, the pit itself is probably the cheapest thing of the lot!

 

 

Where do you take the time for flying from?

 

That is an issue.

I haven't flown in over a year, partly because the gaming PC is not set up and is in the garage as a test bed for the pit, but mostly because I don't have the time.

The only flying I do is a quick start mission I set up. Start in the air at 20k ft on AP in a circle while i play around with Helios, switches and displays. :cry:

 

But really- i get more enjoyment out of building this thing and the little victories when a panel actually works than I do flying anyway!

Once its finished that will change I hope- I haven't bought Nevada yet.

I have decided I'll do that only when the pit is complete (or relatively flyable..) to give me something to look forward to and have fun in.

 

And then I'll start a Hornet pit... (but don't tell my wife)

 

Really Great Work RK!

I don't want to rain on your parade in the slightest and hope you will appreciate this rarely seen detail. The interior of the instrument frame is grey, not green.

Oops- too late!

 

20160504_134218_zpsxtqsendt.jpg

 

Nah I knew that. I just did the green because i like the look of it. It breaks up all the grey I think- plus none of it will actually be visible anyway!

 

Hello RK!

 

Your pit is exactly what I would like to achieve with mine! :)

 

We are a group of 5 people in Christchurch who are building A10C Cockpits!

 

Would you be interested in sharing the .stl files for the panels, by any chance?

That would be very generous of you!

 

Thanks,

E.

 

Happy to share- but I wont take credit for other peoples work.

 

I bought and used Flims plans for the pit-click here to buy

I only really edited his main front panel to suit my specific needs. The dimensions of my edits were made up using my MK1 eyeball. They are NOT accurate and will NOT fit real instruments (unless I absolutely fluked it!)

 

I used Lar's excellent work as a base for my panels- click here to download the .DXF files

I kept Lar's external panel dimensions (which are correct DZUS size) but I re-drew all of his text and moved the switch holes to suit my needs. Mine are now similar to an A-10 in appearance only and are not accurate.

 

I don't have any .STL files to share- I use .DXF for the laser.

 

Yep, excellent job on the build... It looks like it went together smoothly?

 

It did. I didn't make any changes and had it cut direct from your plans with no issues.

 

Well, one minor issue caused only buy me mounting the top canopy edge piece incorrectly. :doh: I fixed that with copious sanding and filler. And one of my lower wood pieces was warped as well.

 

If i made them again I would change only some minor things

 

-I would of CNC cut a hole in each internal bulkhead rib just below the panels to enable a straight length of wood or aluminium to run through console. It would make cabling easier to run if i had something that travels the full length to zip tie it to. No big issue- I will drill a hole by hand.

 

-I would make the side consoles maybe an inch wider. The inside of the console trim is flush up against the edge of my outboard panels. I have overcome this by cutting up the large trim piece, setting it outboard by about an inch and having the ribs exposed. That gives me the room to make a canopy disengage lever in the right console. I think it actually looks better this way anyway!

 

Hard to explain but ill take some pics to show what i mean once the paint is done. Two more coats to go.

 

Progress-

No photos yet- but soon :smilewink:

 

-My upholstery tack 'rivets' arrived so I'm planning out the external paint details now. Still sanding, filling and painting the consoles.

-I've got all the parts and started building the CMSP.

-I've started designing the UFC.

-I've ordered a 4.3inch VGA LCD for the CDU and started designing that. Because of the cheapness of the 4.3 inch (a third the cost of a 3.5 inch) the CDU design is a little less realistic. I decided I might as well have the F1-F12 buttons I had on that custom panel designed into it as well. The CDU is also going to be a HID USB run from a separate Arduino so i can use it across many sims for many aircraft.

-I've re built the Caution box. Same insides, but it is now much sexier than the Obutto console version.

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. Progress-

No photos yet- but soon

Blah! How dare you!

 

Well, there is still enough here for now :) build looks great.:thumbup:

 

One thing about pedals - do consider some upgrade from the saitek stuff, either DIY or aftermarket unit. Can't say "omfg it changes everything! " but I think you will definitely appreciate the solid feel.


Edited by agrasyuk

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

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I'm about to start detail painting the outside skin.

Anybody know what the three black stripe markings under the canopy frame designate? I've seen pics of hogs with and without them. Are they on both sides?

 

I'm guessing some sort of centre of gravity marking for crane lifting? Or a cut here in emergency marking?

e7e9db4eca026665af03515ed4a7ed52.jpg

5fa96ddcac29f0711f09a533f21bba6b.jpg

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Good guess but no the black strips are only on the left side of the cockpit as the pilot sits in it. As far as I can remember they are ladder placement mark for pilot rescue. you may find some thing else in [ame]http://www.oldwings.nl/content/o0/USAF_TechOrder_TO_1-1-4.pdf[/ame]

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Quick update just to show this off.

 

CMSP

3e6df7154e4d46f2fb55379cbc5e47e6.jpg

 

Note that I have got leds in there for the knob back lighting, I have just decided to not engrave the circles for them on all the panels until I can find suitable knobs. Once I finally find some I'll just put the panels back in the laser.

 

I am really happy with how my engraving is coming out! The contrast is perfect.

 

I am currently soldering all the back lighting leds.

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Romeokilo that is one of the best looking EWMU (CMSP) panels I have seen. Congratulations on making a very near replica once you make the clear circle for the knob back lighting and correct the labeling on the first systems switch from NWS to the correct MWS I have attache a reference pic. I am sure no one will be able to tell the difference between your panel and the real thing. Great work!!!

EWMUPanel-1.png

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Cheers Deadman

 

I can't believe I didn't notice that typo. Look like I'm cutting a new one then!

 

I've also left the two lines near the JTSN and BRT buttons off intentionally, as I intend on adding yellow emergency striping around the JTSN button.

 

Not sure if that's realistic or not, but I am sure I remember seeing a picture of a real one like that somewhere.

 

Also- it's not in the photo but the buttons actually stick out about 1.5 mm from the panel when the tactile switches are installed behind them.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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I have only seen the panel with yellow on it on the photo etch site the picture is no longer on the site that I can find here is a copy I have. Sounds great on the buttons I can't remember off the top of my head but I can check after work if I remember.

EWMU%20with%20Caution%20Stripes_zpscjh5amwb.jpg

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Outstanding. Thanks mate.

 

I vaugely remember a thread a while back about that but I couldn't find it.

 

I had my yellow markings drawn up wrapping around the JTSN and OFF text, so I'll change that and add those top lines when I make the next one.

 

I've got imitation tops to add on the switches, transparent green plastic ordered for a cover over the 2020 OLED (which looking at your pics I might sit back a few mm from the front).

Once I source a knob it should look great.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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Buttons are 1.3 mm extended from the front the face of the display is countersunk 2 mm from the face of the panel I see you have 4 screws in the face of the panel and the hole for the one screw open on the real panel there are four screws in from the back of the Aluminum back plate.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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Althow I am very envious about your pit and your opportunities I want to add my "knowledge" :)

 

This is a photo by Keith LaFaille, who shared this (and a bunch of other HighRes-Pics) at Flickr under CC-License.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/klafaille/5875323228/in/album-72157626930907793/

 

Those pics are my source of inspiration and a great reference.

 

It isn't worth a new post so I edit it here:

I think due to "scientific" progress and individual claims it could become difficult to find two A10Cs with equal Suites (If this is the official expression for the complete layout)

Even a certain bird won't stay the same season by season (maybe mission by mission).

 

I compare Pit-Building to Railroad Modeling (just at another scale): You have to decide to one certain era (german: Epoche), make a snapshot (even of a certain day) and do your best in reproducing that.

 

RK: What I try to say: It doesn't matter, if there are (e.g.) yellow emergency striping or not. You do a formidable work.

Your pit is one of those I look at before I do the next step.

 

Thank you for sharing this joy with us.

A10C_right002.thumb.jpg.952a8692b95d3cd314fc48ccae8efddc.jpg


Edited by Tekkx

Manual for my version of RS485-Hardware, contact: tekkx@dresi.de

Please do not PM me with DCS-BIOS-related questions. If the answer might also be useful to someone else, it belongs in a public thread where it can be discovered by everyone using the search function. Thank You.

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Hey, great looking CMSP Romeokilo! Kudos! Quick question, if I may. Just curious as the size of the display you used, or perhaps even a link. It looks a tad wider than the others I've seen, or maybe it's just the way the panel was cut. But it definitely looks like the original! Thanks.

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

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Hey, great looking CMSP Romeokilo! Kudos! Quick question, if I may. Just curious as the size of the display you used, or perhaps even a link. It looks a tad wider than the others I've seen, or maybe it's just the way the panel was cut. But it definitely looks like the original! Thanks.

 

Its a 20X2 OLED I got from here.

Unfortunately it seems that they only have 16X2's in stock at the moment. The 20X2 page has been removed. That site is the actual manufacturer so i would keep checking back there or have a look around eBay for a reseller.

 

I have yet to actually fire it up but other people have used them with no issues.

I couldn't find a drawing anywhere- here is one i made measuring mine myself with some calipers.

Capture_zpsnlnwmi74.jpg

 

 

Progress!!!

 

Overall-

20160521_153636_zpsb4ifs1yi.jpg

 

UFC-

Ignore the dust I was sanding the consoles nearby. I made it larger than it is supposed to be so i could fit all the buttons perfectly spaced over 2.4mm pitch prototype board for the switches. The buttons stick out 1.5mm when the tactile switches are behind them.

20160521_135006_zpscfuqf6zx.jpg

 

Right Console. Still a few spaces to fill and a few more coats of paint to do.

20160521_153712_zpswihhvs2g.jpg

 

 

CMSP and Caution Panel

20160521_135018_zpscgaxfnl3.jpg

 

CDU Engraved-

20160521_150537_zpsvco3arve.jpg

20160521_153649_zpsjbbem2cu.jpg

 

TACAN-

I am cheating and have decided to use a 1602 LCD for this and the ILS.

The ILS was cut incorrectly so it is being re done.

20160521_135029_zpsusyxjhab.jpg

 

Oxygen and Environment Panel-

20160521_153653_zpsxqvtb2jy.jpg

 

Light Panel-

This one will be redone later on down the track. You can see a few of the labels have an error in them because my Z axis table rattled loose...

20160521_153657_zps1nqsl196.jpg

 

COMP-

Again- ignore the dust!

20160521_153701_zpsqj3amenq.jpg

 

Left Console-

SAS, IFF (Real) and Emergency

20160521_135033_zpss3qkoggo.jpg

 

INTER, Antenna Select, VOL and KY58.

20160521_135039_zpspyu7008t.jpg

 

Radio designs are still being tweaked and haven't been cut yet.

 

Both consoles are now drying from another coat of paint.

 

I tried some detail painting on the outside and hated it :mad:. Sanded back and starting again.


Edited by romeokilo
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