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debolestis
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thanks could you also tell me the dimensions of the microstick stick width and length with a caliper?

 

Do you mean the shaft of the microstick? It is 2mm x 1.2mm it sticks out around 7mm.

The pcb where the whole thing sits on is 28mm x 25mm and the housing is around 20mm x 20mm and 12mm tall.

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Just waiting in the Gardena nut buy ready to solder all the switches. Just need a closer pic of where on the switches you wired to and should be G2G on plugging it in to test the buttons.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

 

Just follow this scheme:

auKHhgP.png

 

I am not sure if you know this but I'll explain just in case. There are 2 contacts on 4 legged switch. I connected legs with green lines, those are same contact. You can solder left or right doesn't matter.

Zq4maZl.jpg

 

I don't have new photos but I hope this will be understandable.

I first soldered buttons and trigger.

2rzCFlp.jpg

There is bare wire already soldered. It is common ground wire connecting 4 switches, like green wire on diagram above. Red wires connect according to their names to first image. S4 is in yellow triangle I am not sure which contact. If you make mistake it doesn't matter, other one is S1.

 

Next POV switch:

My7grf5.jpg

Look at U shaped bare wire on the switch. It is also common GND connection. I soldered black wire and connected it according the first image.

On the outer edge are switch contacts. Just solder like I did.

 

Please use multi-meter if you are not sure which contact is what.

 

 

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Edited by debolestis
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Just follow this scheme:

16_bit_2_zps6dvse4nr.png

 

I am not sure if you know this but I'll explain just in case. There are 2 contacts on 4 legged switch. I connected legs with green lines, those are same contact. You can solder left or right doesn't matter.

tact-1_zpsduwcqcnh.jpg

 

I don't have new photos but I hope this will be understandable.

I first soldered buttons and trigger.

TMXF-2_zpsyza4bdtk.jpg

There is bare wire already soldered. It is common ground wire connecting 4 switches, like green wire on diagram above. Red wires connect according to their names to first image. S4 is in yellow triangle I am not sure which contact. If you make mistake it doesn't matter, other one is S1.

 

Next POV switch:

TMXF-3_zpsw3ejz04k.jpg

Look at U shaped bare wire on the switch. It is also common GND connection. I soldered black wire and connected it according the first image.

On the outer edge are switch contacts. Just solder like I did.

 

Please use multi-meter if you are not sure which contact is what.

 

 

Save

Thank you very much for this. Exactly what I needed.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Do you have issues with tailpiece? Any unwanted movement?

 

Sorry I didn't get back to you on this, but I figured out where the issue is on mine. The shaft on the printed parts (polished white sls nylon) is 15.8mm but The shaft on TM grips is actually 16. There are a few other spots that need adjustment as well and I made a scan of TM parts next to yours so you can compare the slight differences in socket proportions.

 

http://i.imgur.com/Qg2TYXP.jpg

 

Was going to make a simple drawing to dimension the other bits and of course I can put calipers on any parts you want. Been trying to get my molds finished.. making progress.

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Do you have issues with tailpiece? Any unwanted movement?

 

When flying no but if I push and pull the han del ahead and forward theres. A slight play but maybe it was there bedore with the stock tail I al not sure. The antena seems toó backed out no?

What is the exact color forma the grey buttons on the throtthle?

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Debolestis Shapeways shop

 

Hey, now that you mention it. If you overtight the tailpiece against the body if the stick when installing with the screw that is inside, the piece begins to open. That is natural, but it makes me think that maybe instead of a C to hold the screew an O is necessary. I don't know if it is room for it but I think so. This is important if an FCC or FSSB is going to be used, due to the amount of force needed.

Cheers

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Hey, now that you mention it. If you overtight the tailpiece against the body if the stick when installing with the screw that is inside, the piece begins to open. That is natural, but it makes me think that maybe instead of a C to hold the screew an O is necessary. I don't know if it is room for it but I think so. This is important if an FCC or FSSB is going to be used, due to the amount of force needed.

Cheers

 

I have checked and the play was indeed inside of the stick. I tightened the lower bolts and now there is zero play/ I will keep an eye on it to see it opens. Mine is stainless steel.

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Hello everybody, sorry that I wasn't active lately, it is flu season here and I've got a bad one. Thank you for you feedback, please post all your issues, that is the only way for me to fix them. I have a lot of work to do, but fortunately my vacation just started and I'll have some time to work on my projects.

 

Antenna Plastic painted. I have push it all the way and seems a little out is that fine?

Cursor New style aluminum

 

DMS castle plastic

Tailpiece black steel 15 degree offset

 

What is the exact color forma the grey buttons on the throtthle?

 

I just saw that you printed aluminum cursor knob, can you make a close up photo or two?

 

Antenna knob must be like that because of its shape. I wanted it to look same as original. Only way to fix this is to make potentiometer shaft shorter.

 

This is right color:

6170246354_7b2855025b_z.jpg

 

 

Sorry I didn't get back to you on this, but I figured out where the issue is on mine. The shaft on the printed parts (polished white sls nylon) is 15.8mm but The shaft on TM grips is actually 16. There are a few other spots that need adjustment as well and I made a scan of TM parts next to yours so you can compare the slight differences in socket proportions.

 

http://i.imgur.com/Qg2TYXP.jpg

 

Was going to make a simple drawing to dimension the other bits and of course I can put calipers on any parts you want. Been trying to get my molds finished.. making progress.

 

Thank you Thadiun Okona, you are very helpful. I just checked and all my shafts are 16mm. I don't know why your is 15.8. Maybe because it is polished, I don't know. I opened my warthog few days ago and remeasured everything, only thing that was different was this:

 

eMFe4b5.jpg

 

 

Painted part was 0,5mm lower. I'll change that, maybe that will help with center play. I also got comment that TM shaft is oval in shape. It is not. I think there are some production tolerances on stick that are causing that some people have center play and some don't.

 

Hey, now that you mention it. If you overtight the tailpiece against the body if the stick when installing with the screw that is inside, the piece begins to open. That is natural, but it makes me think that maybe instead of a C to hold the screew an O is necessary. I don't know if it is room for it but I think so. This is important if an FCC or FSSB is going to be used, due to the amount of force needed.

Cheers

 

O shape is not possible because there are two notches inside grip that would prevent O shape to fit properly.


Edited by debolestis
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Painted part was 0,5mm lower. I'll change that, maybe that will help with center play. I also got comment that TM shaft is oval in shape. It is not. I think there are some production tolerances on stick that are causing that some people have center play and some don't.

 

Hi, debolestis.

 

I'm sorry about the flu you've got. Get well soon, mate!

And also thank you for remeasurement.

 

According to your post, I understand that you couldn't confirm my center play issue which I pointed in the comment on Shapeways tailpiece page.

 

However, actually, I have that issue with Warthog and FSSB R3.

And I confirmed that it can be fixed with hot glue. Which means the problem is comes from the diameter of its cylinder, as I already mentioned in the comment.

If you have time for it, I hope you'll test the tailpiece to confirm that issue in exact same way as I did.

 

I did:

1) Disassemble the stick.

2) Loose the screw at C shaped point. (It's for simulating the usage of FSSB/FCC, because when we use it, we apply strong force to stick)

3) Pinch the tailpiece at bottom part, and slowly shake it laterally.

4) You'll see the play.


Edited by PeCa_Chuck
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Hello everybody, sorry that I wasn't active lately, it is flu season here and I've got a bad one. Thank you for you feedback, please post all your issues, that is the only way for me to fix them. I have a lot of work to do, but fortunately my vacation just started and I'll have some time to work on my projects.

 

 

 

I just saw that you printed aluminum cursor knob, can you make a close up photo or two?

 

Antenna knob must be like that because of its shape. I wanted it to look same as original. Only way to fix this is to make potentiometer shaft shorter.

 

This is right color:

6170246354_7b2855025b_z.jpg

 

 

 

 

Thank you Thadiun Okona, you are very helpful. I just checked and all my shafts are 16mm. I don't know why your is 15.8. Maybe because it is polished, I don't know. I opened my warthog few days ago and remeasured everything, only thing that was different was this:

 

Shaft%20CW_zpsm92wvb0x.jpg

 

 

Painted part was 0,5mm lower. I'll change that, maybe that will help with center play. I also got comment that TM shaft is oval in shape. It is not. I think there are some production tolerances on stick that are causing that some people have center play and some don't.

 

 

 

O shape is not possible because there are two notches inside grip that would prevent O shape to fit properly.

I have shortened the shaft of the antenna and polished the aluminum cursor.

 

About the tail wobbling I have experienced again a little play but after disassembling the stick and making the ground cable screw tight and also the external screws tight it now does not have any play at all.

IMG_20170203_204522.thumb.jpg.b862030b13926c343f8043ecf302f25b.jpg

IMG_20170203_204458.thumb.jpg.13b3f3443c8c453537bc7c8289812d84.jpg


Edited by suhast
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  • 2 months later...

I had one problem with my Cougar gimbal, this part broke:

qU76aFs.jpg

 

That was flaw in design, force was there the strongest and after few months of use it broke. Than I redesigned all parts and fixed a few issues.

 

Updated list of materials can be found HERE.

 

Most of changes are minor except this part. On the left is old broken part and on the right is a new one. You can see that it is much stronger now. Sensors are now mounted in different way, before on M3 screws like on the left part, now everything is printed.

C51nR10.jpg

 

I designed this version for GVL224 sensors, and for MFG sensors. Probably others will fit. I use new magnets now. I bought magnets from GVL224, but they can be also ordered from HERE.

 

I used cable ties with magnets for easier calibration. After installation magnets must be oriented properly and with cable ties it is easier to do it with fingers.

 

kEfVDvt.jpg

 

I removed nyloc nuts and I now use regular M6 steel magnetic nut. All other screws and nuts are made from stainless steel which is not magnetic. Now magnet sticks on M6 nut like in photo below.

2gxgOCW.jpg

 

It should look like this:

1hPDMPQ.jpg

Then add magnet and sensor.

 

It is the same for other sensor:

pDqNbV7.jpg

 

1QH0wsq.jpg

 

I'll design a new shield PCB for Pro micro, one that can be installed in Cougar enclosure.

 

X2dalGk.jpg

 

 

I have original Cougar PCB that unfortunately doesn't work. It fits normally in enclosure with my gimbal. GVL224 sensors will work with original PCB.

 

ouhwvcA.jpg

 

I think I am now finished with gimbal. I need to start working on other projects. If you have any good idea please let me know.

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Edited by debolestis
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  • 2 weeks later...
Use code FORMOM at checkout until Sunday April 23, 2017 and get 15% off on all cast metals.

 

Hmmm, should have read this prior to ordering.

i9-9900K @ 5.1 - delided, Gigabyte Aorus Elite MB, Corsair H150i Pro water cooler

64gig G-Skill DDR4@3600, MSI 3080 Ti Suprim X

Winwing Super Taurus, Super Libra, TO / Combat panels and Collective

MFG Crosswind pedals, Tek Creations F/A-18 UFC and F-16 ICP

Trackir

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