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Broken HOTAS Warthog throttle pinky switch


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FYI

 

 

With regards to Digi-Key outside the US, if you look in the upper right hand corner, has a nifty little "Change Country" button. Behind it you will find that Digi-Key has representation in a whole bunch of countries, including *ahem* Hrvatski ;)

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When you hit the wrong button on take-off

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

System Specs.

[TABLE]System board ... MSI X99A GAMING 9 ACK

CPU ............ Intel Core i7-5820K @ 3800MHz per OC Genie

CPU cooling .... Noctua NH-D15

Memory ......... 16GB DDR4-3000 G.Skill Ripjaw

PSU ............ Corsair AX860i PSU

Graphics card .. Zotac Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Amp! Extreme

System disk .... SanDisk Extreme PRO 480GB SSD

Monitor ........ ASUS MG279Q, 27"

VR ............. Oculus Rift CV1[/TABLE]

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  • 9 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

So my pinky switch just went south too - still works on forward click, but back click is gone. Is Digikey link still the way to go for the replacement? Anyone has a disassembly tutorial on this one?

 

Thanks!

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 months later...

exect same request...

 

So my pinky switch just went south too - still works on forward click, but back click is gone. Is Digikey link still the way to go for the replacement? Anyone has a disassembly tutorial on this one?

 

Thanks!

 

 

exect same request...

 

Ray

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  • 1 month later...

JEEEzus!! Nearly $50 for a single tiny switch. I'm 100% certain you can find a viable replacement in the US for half the price, less wait, and no issues with customs.

 

My switch is kind of wobbly, and so I started to look around for a replacement. There are lots of them, in every quality class, from military grade for about $250 for a single switch, to something like this: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/grayhill-inc/34ASP38T7M3RT/34ASP38T7M3RT-ND/2678815

 

I took my throttle apart to get the specs of the switch. This is what I found:

 

Mounting hole diameter: 11.98mm

 

Shaft of switch diameter: 11.70mm

 

Length of bat: 17mm

 

The rating of the switch is (printed on the switch):

3A250VAC <== 3 ampere, 250 VAC

6A125VAC <== 6 ampere, 125 VAC

 

 

This is also printed on the switch, and is probably a product code from the manufacturer.

MTS-I or MTS-1

 

 

It's a SPDT switch: Single Pole Double Throw, which means it has 3 lead-ins, one for the signal-in, and two for signal-out, only one of which can be active at a time.

 

The replacement does not have to be identical. It has to be SPDT, have a shaft less than 11.98 mm in diameter, but not too much smaller, but many are the same size, because TM is buying standard switches that the can buy in bulk, like 1000 at a time to get the discount for bulk purchases, and have the correct rating, which I don't think you can even get under, because the throttle is USB powered, which means 3 volt DC and 1 ampere at the most, and no switches I saw even go near that low.

 

You can have a longer or sorter bat (the actual part you push), round or flat, with a plastic hat or naked, what ever suits your taste.

 

But sending off to France and paying $50, just because Thrustmaster bought it first... :doh:

When you hit the wrong button on take-off

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

System Specs.

[TABLE]System board ... MSI X99A GAMING 9 ACK

CPU ............ Intel Core i7-5820K @ 3800MHz per OC Genie

CPU cooling .... Noctua NH-D15

Memory ......... 16GB DDR4-3000 G.Skill Ripjaw

PSU ............ Corsair AX860i PSU

Graphics card .. Zotac Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Amp! Extreme

System disk .... SanDisk Extreme PRO 480GB SSD

Monitor ........ ASUS MG279Q, 27"

VR ............. Oculus Rift CV1[/TABLE]

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i JUST GOT A REPLY FROM tHRUSTMASTER

Part is avalable in FRANCE warehouse. to get the piecce it will be 19.20 EURO + 22 EURO for transport to Canada....

 

Also, I got a well done step by step procedure in color

 

 

If you post it, others who find themselves in the same boat can benefit from it.

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
If you guys find a replacement please post it here Id love to fix this thing.

 

I picked up a couple of these switches not long ago, but only just got around to using one to replace the Pinky Switch on my TM HOTAS Throttle last weekend, because the original simply gave out.

 

E-Switch 100SP3T The bushing threads are listed as 15/32" and I measure 11.68-11.69mm. The flat nuts (there's one on the inside too) fit perfectly.

 

The short and sweet of it is that it works great, and is better than the original when it was new. Much solider feel to it and still as easy to flip.

 

Price was €2.85 each, but shipping and handling was €22.88. Since €22.88 is I think over the actual shipping costs, I imagine most of that is handling; that is, since 2 switches cost only €5.70, they would make a loss to simply send somebody into the warehouse to pick up the switches and package them and mail them, if they didn't add on some handling costs.

 

Anyway, this is the switch

 

picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=9513

 

picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=9514

 

picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=9515

 

picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=9516

 

 

Tools you will need are:

 

Needle nose soldering iron

 

Fine solder, probably not more that about 0.5 mm in diamter

 

Phillips screw driver size 1 or 1.5

 

Needle nose pliers

 

A black felt tip pen

 

Having a soldering station with hands to hold the switch and wires and possibly a magnifying glass for when your are soldering will be a great advantage

 

 

The first thing you'll want to do is use the needle nose pliers to start unscrewing the flat nut from the switch bushing. After a couple turns you can use your fingers.

 

picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=9517

 

 

Then you use the Phillips screw driver to remove both screws from the opposite side. They are both identical and just shy of the width of the lever handle. They will probably not come out enough to remove them at once. This is okay. You and push them out from the inside once the face plate has been removed.

 

picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=9518

 

 

Lift off the face place in the direction of the switch, carefully as to not allow it to jump out of its fitting, so as to not damage the wires to the switch. They are not terribly long and very fine.

 

If the screws are still in their holes, push them out far enough to grasp them from the outside, remove them, and put them aside.

 

Inside the Throttle Lever Handle you will find two posts, which the screws went through. Now that the screws are absent, these posts have fallen to the floor of the Handle. Remove these and put them aside with the screws.

 

Now push the switch inwards from the outside, as it is now only held in place by friction. Put the face plate aside.

 

Unscrew the second flat nut from the switch bushing and put it aside.

 

picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=9519

 

 

There are three wires attached tot he switch, a black and two reds--at least I think they are both red, as I am red-green colorblind. Use the felt tip pen to mark the red outside wire to differentiate it from the inside wire.

 

Right where the wires are attached to the switch, they are coated thickly with what appears to be hot glue. Carefully remove it and dispose of it, without damaging the wires.

 

picture.php?albumid=1462&pictureid=9520

 

The switch has a slot in one side. Note that the black wire is opposite the slot, and the wire we marked with the felt tip pen is on the side with the slot.

 

Use the soldiering iron to unsolder the wires, one after the other.

 

Put the old switch aside.

 

READ AND UNDERSTAND ALL THE STEPS ABOUT SOLDERING, BEFORE CONTINUING FURTHER. OTHERWISE YOU RISK DAMAGING THE NEW SWITCH.

 

Insure your soldering iron is hot enough to melt the solder quickly, by touching the end of your solder thread to the tip of the iron. If it melts practically immediately, it's hot enough.

 

Solder the wires onto the new switch, insuring the black wire is away from the slot and the marked wire next to it.

 

Hold the wire to the connection, touch the connection with iron and hold the solder thread against the tip of the iron so that the solder immediately melts and floods the connection and wire just enough to bind them together. Immediately remove the iron once the solder has melted, so as not to allow the connection to heat up too much and melt the plastic housing.

 

Repeat these steps for each wire.

 

 

The switch is now attached to the throttle. Now all we have to do is put everything back in the same order as we took it apart.

 

Screw the first flat nut onto the switch bushing. It should not be turned in tight. It needs some play still.

 

Slide the switch into the face plate so that the bushing slot fits to the tongue. You may need to turn the flat nut a little in or out to allow for its corners to match the corner notches.

 

Once the switch is seating into the face plate, screw the other flat nut onto the bushing and screw it in as far as possible using only finger. Now use the needle nose pliers to turn the flat nut in the rest of the way and tight slightly (finger tight) more is not necessary.

 

Slide the screws into the handle from the outside and slide the posts--wide side outwards--over the screws. Seat the face plate so that the openings on the posts, which are now on the screws, match up with the screw holes on the inside of the face plate. Tighten the screws down just a little more than finger tight.

 

--

 

That's it! Hook the throttle up as usual and off you go.

 

 

EDIT: Had to re-upload illstrations.


Edited by Captain Orso

When you hit the wrong button on take-off

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

System Specs.

[TABLE]System board ... MSI X99A GAMING 9 ACK

CPU ............ Intel Core i7-5820K @ 3800MHz per OC Genie

CPU cooling .... Noctua NH-D15

Memory ......... 16GB DDR4-3000 G.Skill Ripjaw

PSU ............ Corsair AX860i PSU

Graphics card .. Zotac Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Amp! Extreme

System disk .... SanDisk Extreme PRO 480GB SSD

Monitor ........ ASUS MG279Q, 27"

VR ............. Oculus Rift CV1[/TABLE]

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My problem is not the pinkie switch on the throttle its the pinkie lever sensor on the joystick, the grey round button type behind the lever the pinkie rests on....Does anyone know where to get a replacement from

 

Your issue is an different case, look there:

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=137291

 

If are not used to DIY, contact Thrutsmaster for buy replacement.

 

You need replacement for button # four - see on page 4:

 

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/hotas/manual/hotas_warthog/hotas_warthog_manual_v1.pdf

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  • 11 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Thanks, Captain Orso for this wonderful guide! Took me about 30 minutes and new switch works like a charm. Just have to be extremely careful with the wiring: almost broke one of them when soldering a new switch.

It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice © Scooter

 

Intel Core i7 8700K, Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 5, 32Gb DDR4 CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 3200MHz, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080Ti Extreme, VKB Gunfighter MkII + TM HOTAS Warthog + MFG Crosswind 2, TrackIR5

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Just replaced my pinky switch. This is the correct operation and fit. Might be UK/EU only supplyer.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/7347139/

 

Can confirm! :-) Just fixed mine too!

 

And I'm a normal non-electronic whiz. It's fiddly though! Luckily I have one of these for my modelling:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fityle-Auxiliary-Magnifier-Magnifying-Embroidery/dp/B07KCWR8Z7/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1552639624&sr=8-10&keywords=modelling+magnifier+and+stand

 

Made it SO much easier!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm actually looking for a 'dead' Warthog throttle (though any split throttle would probably work). Planning on some mods, but I don't want to stop flying while I do it.

 

 

If anyone knows where there's a bricked throttle let me know.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This thread just saved me a bunch of time and money. I just finished fixing my original "bricked" throttle and somehow broke the pinky switch on the newer replacement I bought because I the board I needed was out of stock when the first throttle failed. So I got 3 switches: 1 to fix the broken one and a spare for each throttle :)

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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