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Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods


debolestis
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Can anyone point me to a correct source for these little 5 pin connectors used in the Warthog?

 

L5guG7g.jpg

 

I ordered some connectors from eBay to rewire a stick and while they LOOKED like the correct connectors in the picture...they aren't. (Not a complete loss...they WILL work with an F-22 board I have sooooooo...)

 

Thanks in Advance

Sierra

 

Would you happen to know what that 5 pin connector is in the diagram in the corner? I thought the warthog used a ps2 connector but all the ones I can find have 6 pins instead of 5.

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Would you happen to know what that 5 pin connector is in the diagram in the corner? I thought the warthog used a ps2 connector but all the ones I can find have 6 pins instead of 5.

 

Yes the connector at the base is a 5 pin miniDIN connector. They come in many different pin patterns but miniDIN connectors look the same on the outside.

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For anyone interested, I'm willing to sell my Suncom HOTAS setup converted to USB VIA FUSBA from realsimulator.com... I upgraded to a HOTAS Warthog. The only issue I have with mine is one of the throttle POTs needs replacing in order to operate as a dual thottle, they can be slaved together so they mirror the same input and work similar to a single throttle using the FUSBA software. The realsimulator guys have POTs they sell for replacing, just shoot them an E-mail.

 

http://realsimulator.com/html/fusba.html

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I'v started modding my Suncom F-15 Hawk, too.

 

Its hard to find one in Germany because Suncom never sold her Sticks in Germany, so i'v buyed one in the USA.

 

I'v replaced all Buttons with newer PushButtons, LeoBodnar 4-Way Hats, at a Recce Button for the Hornet and replaced the plastic Trigger with a TM Cougar Trigger.

 

Its not the final, but it goes on and i'm looking forward to get a nice Hornet stick made by my self.

 

The stick fits perfectly on the MS ForceFeedback 2 Sidewinder Base :joystick:

20170721_152939.thumb.jpg.469c167843e3fcd3723e60ff6e865b12.jpg

20170721_152436.thumb.jpg.e6648f53522deddaa5de6ca656bfddf4.jpg

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Good work! I see that you have removed screw under thumb switch. I thought of doing a same thing.

 

Can you post more photos, I would like to see how you mounted those switches.

 

I found this one:

 

zl2U7Ez.jpg

 

It is Otto P1, I think that is an original or something very similar.

I am going to 3D print mounts for Alps 5way switches and finally finish "real" F-15 stick, after this heat wave passes.

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Schmirco, very good work!

Just a reminder in case you want to use the "Press" function of the hats (ALPS RKJXM): the center switch operates both when the shaft is pressed and when it's moved to any direction. You'll need to add a small additional PCB (21x18 mm) to each of the hats to allow the independent operation of the center switch- please see the posts #354 and #356 of this thread. Please also see the PCB layout in Sprint format attached.

 

Debolestis, after a long delay I'm finalizing the grip (actually, two grips) assembly :); here are the pics of the right-side hat using ALPS RKJXL switch and a modified body of a real-life OTTO hat switch (US military surplus bought on eBay). Hat cap and shaft are Suncom stock parts (the shaft was shortened and drilled to fit the switch shaft). The "15" and "-11" marks are used to set the correct orientation of the hats- in the real grip they are rotated 15 and -11 degrees. The left-side hat pics and the whole upper part assembly pics will follow soon.

Hat1.thumb.jpg.b98e058879dc2b0f7f789dbadc6c170a.jpg

Hat2.thumb.jpg.23158d8ef972f5f12c4ab408802b7ca1.jpg

Center Switch PCB 21x18.zip


Edited by Sergey_Pe
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You are welcome.

If you want to use a thumb switch as 2-way+push you still need a PCB- otherwise the central switch will close every time you push the button fwd or aft. This PCB is smaller (21x14 mm); I use it in my mod- please see the file attached. The difference is that need just two signals from the switch (Up and Down), so two diodes less in the circuit. What kind of electronics are you planning to use in the grip?

RKJXM_2_21x14.zip

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Just a brief status update. The hats are in place, the parts are connected and the upper bodiies of the grips assembled. The only thing left is the installation of the thumb sticks. In the real F-15 grip they are 3-way hats with "fore-", "aft-", and "press" movements; I'll need to install additional guides to keep the shafts from moving sideways.

IMG_20170804_073252.thumb.jpg.5e1aba7845690220eacacca67e031791.jpg

IMG_20170806_151457.thumb.jpg.888390fe782a25cf648922e8b2ad906e.jpg

IMG_20170806_151700.jpg.b4530ab90d3bbb125c24dbf7b07bf0a8.jpg

IMG_20170806_155934.thumb.jpg.24629ccebc2f8e56399ee41a2399979c.jpg

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Sergey, where did you get the ring with the letters for the trimm direction ?

It's all that's left from the real OTTO US military surplus hat switches that I've found on eBay. Using them directly turned out to be impossible due to a very high and uneven force needed to move a hat (which is typical for the real-life switches). So after all I used just the aluminium bodies having them shortened to accomodate the PCB's with ALPS RKJXL hat switches.

72880296_OTTOHatSwitch.thumb.jpg.e9783be964a49c06fb1ecb7ebba9b045.jpg


Edited by Sergey_Pe
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  • 1 month later...

I mentioned before that I had bought 4 Otto P1-1 switches. I wanted to replace S1, S2, S3 and S4 switches. Finally I had some time to do it. It is not difficult mod, it took me about an hour.

 

On the right you can see Otto P1 switch, it looks similar but there are a few differences. Area bellow the actuator is taller and Otto switch is a bit narrower.

lIECrEt.jpg

 

SCO4OSW.jpg

 

I solved that problem with electrical tape. I just wrapped 5-6 cm around the each switch. If switch couldn't fit I removed 5-10mm of tape and tried again until fit was just right. I wrapped the tape 0,5mm bellow the edge because tape can slip in tight fits.

tNtsAtx.jpg

 

Here is S3 installed:

Wbte3Bw.jpg

 

Then I repeated same process for S4 and then unplugged S2 switch. Here is its header on PCB.

rML7cN0.jpg

 

Here is S2 installed. You can also see how S1 fits perfectly.

EqzvfuF.jpg

 

Then I put everything back together again. Here are some photos of finished grip:

JyT4Bj1.jpg

 

sF8hwpt.jpg

 

ldR288g.jpg

 

The result is amazing. Warthog is nice grip but its push button switches were just crap. I never had proper tactile feel, now it is completely different. It feels like real grip now. I also had to adjust pinkie lever by turning grub screw bellow. Lever is the best, there is constant force while it is moved and in the end loud click with great tactile feel.

 

There are actually two versions of this switch: one with 4lbs of force and one with 2.5 lbs force. I have all 4lbs, maybe lower force would be better for S1-S3 it depends on personal preference, but for S4 4 lbs is awesome.

 

I strongly recommend this mod to everybody. This switches are expensive but from time to time they can be found cheap on eBay, especially for somebody in US. Postage to Europe is sometimes more expensive than switches. After one minute on eBay I found this one.

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I made this shield.

 

H7qK2he.png

 

It is modular design. On the left goes Leonardo ProMicro, i the middle amplifier for thumb-stick and on the right 8 bit shift register board that will be daisy chained with shift register from right grip.

 

First of all I wanted to see if amplifier is working. I made it in June but i tested it today. I didn't want to disassemble my throttle so I did it like this:

 

http://i.imgur.com/38cmgDi.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/nN85UJE.jpg

 

It is messy but it will be much cleaner soon.

 

Amplifier works!!! It is great news, because now PS3 thumbstick will be usable. Without amplifier it has very low resolution. On 10 bits maybe 17-18 points for each axis. It is a bit better when over sampled 14 bits but still not so good. I also don't have full range of mechanical motion due to construction right grip.

 

With amplifier I got around 100 points on 10 bits, and when over sampled it worked well. I will tweak it more, I made voltage measurements and I'll make a few simulations in LT Spice and try to get even better range.

 

You can see how it worked when calibrated in MMjoy2.

 

http://i.imgur.com/JebhX75.jpg

 

Here is schematics. If somebody has any better Idea please say it.

http://i.imgur.com/ocsTL1c.png

 

PCB can be bought HERE.

 

From Il-2.ru, PS2 stick with your amplifier, but connected though MCP3202, work very good. :thumbup:

 

https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/uploads/monthly_09_2017/post-63429-0-54912400-1505549209.jpg

 

https://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/4664-mmjoy2-besplatnaya-proshivka-i-soft-dlya-samodelnogo-k/page-26#entry558734


Edited by Sokol1_br
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