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Found 19 results

  1. Отдам Кабанчика в добрые руки Отдаю, потому что у Вирпилов черная пятница Полностью исправен, местами антуражно потерт. Территориально де факто Москва, де юре Красногорск: от метро Мякинино 5 минут пешком по набережной. Больше фото и отзывы обо мне можно посмотреть на АВИТО В Авито указано, что без пересыла, но для форумчан готов рассмотреть вариант Авито доставки, надо только придумать, как вы его проверите перед отправкой, но об этих тонкостях можно договориться в Л.С. с реально заинтересованным покупателем. Я конечно уверен, что такого не будет, но на всякий случай давайте договоримся, что если вдруг каким-то чудом создастся на девайс очередь, то очередность будем по времени обращения ЛС на Авито определять, а то в сообщениях на форумах, в лс форумов и в лс авито можно теоретически и запутаться.
  2. UPDATE: Version 2.63 is available. The installer will now give you the option to install CTS for DCS 2.5 and 1.5.8 Legacy versions. Note: The DNS address in the old 2.10 installer is no longer valid. Copy the version.txt attached to this post into your CTS\DB folder before running the updater. Alternatively, the 2.55 installer is available in the links below. Special thanks to Tercio Sampaio for developing the GUI. If you wish to donate for this program, please send any donations to Fisher House, a charity that supports wounded veterans and their families. Exception: if you want me to program for a module or hardware I don't have, please PM me and we can discuss it. DCS World TARGET Script for Thrustmaster Cougar or Warthog and MFDs is now available. Download it from: Eagle Dynamics User Files Box.com This file is an installer which will install and launch the updater, which will then download the latest version of the script. You can also periodically run the updater to keep your script up to date. This script for the HOTAS Cougar/Warthog and Cougar MFDs includes dedicated profiles for the following aircraft: A-10C Warthog AV-8B N/A Harrier II Ka-50 Black Shark P-47D Thunderbolt P-51D Mustang UH-1H Huey Mi-8 Hip Mi-24P Hind F-86 Sabre Fw-190A8/D9 Bf-109K-4 Kurfürst MiG-21bis Fishbed MiG-15bis M-2000C SA-342 Gazelle L-39 Albatross F-5E Tiger II Spitfire LF Mk. IX Mosquito FB Mk. VI AJS-37 Viggen C-101 F-14 Tomcat F-16C Viper JF-17 Thunder F/A-18C Hornet MiG-19 Farmer I-16 Ishak A-4E Skyhawk MB339 T-45 Goshawk Combined Arms Flaming Cliffs 3 The script is fully implemented with both code and custom keyboard and joystick LUA files. The included "Standard DirectX" profile can me used to create a versatile profile for anything else. This script uses TARGET, so you need to install it (though Cougar users can leave Foxy where it is). I also recommend the latest MFD Drivers, as I have found fewer profile crashes with these enabled. The script offers the following features: Graphical User Interface (GUI) to save your settings and auto-generate script files. Both HOTAS Cougar and Warthog Compatibility with New F/A-18 Grip Support for selected modules. All documentation (except for the Setup Guide) is in HTML with context-sensitive help in the GUI. CommState routine allows for the selection of F1 through F12 keys with Hats 2-4 while the MIC switch is pressed Hot-selectable “TriggerZoom” allows you to zoom into your target or HUD when depressing the first trigger stage LED indications for airbrake, landing gear, TriggerZoom, CommState, and Teamspeak3 PTT Compatible with TouchControl (formerly TouchIR), VAICOM Pro, DCS Simpleradio Standalone, and all major VoIP solutions Optimized for TrackIR, but compatible VR or with Hat1 as POV Individual HOTAS profiles are mapped as closely to their real world counterparts as practical Flaming Cliffs 3 (FC3) HOTAS mappings correlate to the A-10C (attack aircraft) or F-16C (fighters) as closely as practical FC3 Context Sensitive Autopilot routine that reverts to last used mode on toggle A-10C Profile includes direct entry for CDU, CMSP, and UFC Ka-50 Profile allows direct entry for ABRIS (RMFD) and Rubicon Datapad Ability to automatically pause TrackIR while at the Door Gunner Station (UH-1) Context sensitive communications menus based on crew station (framework in place for DCS implementation) TARGET based Central Position Trimmer Mode that greatly improves upon the default trimmers when not using force feedback. Analog and digital differential braking routines, including paddle braking and nosewheel steering. Kneeboard mapping for all aircraft. NVGs for all capable aircraft, including "bonus" mapping for the A-10A, Su-25, Su-25T, and F-86 (H/T Zaelu). AWACS Mode for LotATC and SRS users. Simplified hot-selection of aircraft allows for potentially thousands of aircraft and variants in this script, along with audible feedback of aircraft selected. Screenshots are in the following post. I look forward to your feedback; any information that will help me improve this profile is greatly appreciated. To this end, there is now a public bugtracker for CTS. See the HTML documentation for instructions on how to submit a bug report or feature request. version.txt
  3. --------------------------------------------- Warthog throttle Upgrading the throttle panels NEW-> Upgrading the outboard (left) grip Warthog, Hornet and Cougar stick grips Mil-spec upgrades for Thrustmaster stick grips --------------------------------------------- I've upgraded all switches to mil-spec on the Warthog throttle to improve the switch feel and make it more functionally realistic. This is probably only of interest if you really like the A-10C. This includes mil-spec locking and standard Eaton/Cutler-Hammer switches on the panel, the locking flap switch, OTTO push buttons and a functioning Honeywell mag switch. I had to provide 12VDC and install an Arduino running DCS-BIOS and a MOSFET circuit to control and sync the mag switch with DCS. Due to the size of the mag switch I had to extend the height of the throttle body with a simple 3D printed frame. On the throttle grips I put in all Eaton/Cutler-Hammer and one Honeywell toggle switch, OTTO hat switches and push button, and a Mason force transducer slew control out of a real F15 throttle unit. The force transducer is interfaced directly with the throttle using a small prototype PCB from Deltasim. I couldn't fit the whole mechanism from the F15 so I dropped the push functionality. It does exist in the real A-10C AFAIK but it is unused so not a great loss. While I was at it, I rewired the panel backlight to the Arduino I needed for the mag switch. This allows the LEDS to be directly synchronized with the in-game panel light intensity using DCS-BIOS. We included the actual brightness parameter in the latest DCS BIOS module for the A-10C. We have it for the Hornet as well in the DCSflightpanels branch. Here's a short video showcasing the look and feel of the switches. I've listed the switches I used, what they are in the real jet (based on Deadman's list) and some Honeywell alternatives at the end that are readily available from e.g. mouser.com This mod is neither cheap nor easy to do. It could be argued that it is in fact totally unnecessary and I would for sure have loved to convert a real throttle unit instead and it probably would have been cheaper. Good luck finding one though I intend to post a more in-depth guide to the various mods later - here's the short version for now: Rip out all switches and sub PCBs Poke it a bit with a Dremel tool Install new switches and wire them up You're golden
  4. Hey guys, After some time the analog pots of my very nice Thrustmaster Cougar started putting out erratic values and were spiking all over the place. These pots seem really cheap and even if there were still replacement parts from TM available, in my eyes it would not make much sense to replace them with the same low quality parts. I have been tinkering with my idea of contactless sensors for the Cougar now for around a year and I think I am finally satisfied with what I got. These sensors are plug and play, fully sealed, make use of a ball bearing on the axle and use a N52 neodymium magnet for contactless angular measurement. The PCBs are only 14 x 20 mm (0.55 x 0.78 in) and were quite the hassle to make all the necessary ICs and SMD parts fit in. The housing is a two part SLS 3D print from Shapeways, which is a very tough material. I use it for all sorts of mechanical parts. (Here you can find development pictures: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.ph...er#Post4419858) These sensors in reality are not hall sensors, but instead use next gen magnetoresistive sensors which are heavily used in the automotive industry and have basically replaced hall sensors there. The main advantages are higher sensitivity and actual angular measurement instead of only measuring the magnetic flux (as hall sensors do). The same type of sensor is used eg in Baur BRD devices in form of MagRez or RAMS. These devices are known for their amazing precision and I wanted to make use of the same sensor in the Cougar. Installation is as easy as stick it in, screw it tight, plug it in and done. You can calibrate them as you normally would via the Hotas Cougar Control Panel and the whole thing stays fully TARGET compatible as well. Now enough talk, here are some pictures. Because the question comes up a lot, you can invert every axis of the Cougar in the first tab of the Cougar Control Panel (CCP) software. If you are interested or want to ask questions please contact mtwsims@tutamail.com. No PMs please! Please note that sometimes I am rather slow to respond and it can take me several days to answer your emails. Payment via PayPal or SEPA bank transaction, but for PayPal I would have to add the PayPal fees on top. All sensors are designed, assembled & hand soldered by me. Every single sensor is then checked and calibrated manually. I can proudly say it is 100% Made in Germany. Price: 42€ (set of two sensors) + 7€ tracked international shipping (from experience shipping within Europe is around 2-5 days and to the US 10 days) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- TM Cougar Throttle standalone USB adapter + digital contacless 14 Bit GMR sensor I also have made a USB standalone adapter for the Cougar with a high res 14 Bit GMR TLE5011 digital sensor on the Throttle axis. This one is similar to the TUSBA, but half the price and with an added extension bay that supports extra shift registers, encoders, buttons, analog and digital axis. You can buy the USB standalone adapter without the new digital sensor and simply keep using the original pot. However you can not use the digital sensor without the USB adapter, as it communicates via the digital SPI protocol. I have been selling these on the german Craigslist/ ebay since 2018 and people were really enthusiastic about their performance. Price is 33€ for the adapter and 20€ for the sensor + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- TM Cougar Throttle hall sensor kit I can now also offer a simpler Hall effect sensor kit for the Throttle. It consists of an Allegro 1324 hall sensor + cable and a 3D printed casing + N52 magnet. It is plug and play for the Throttle unit without my USB standalone adapter and similiar to older hall sensor kits for the Cougar. The difference is it requires no fancy mounts and is fixed in the correct position in two out of three axis for more precision. The third axis is dependent on magnet strength and can be hardware and or software calibrated. By hardware calibration I mean depth of insertion into the 3D printed case, nothing to it really. The mod is only compatible with the 5V mainboard version as is! The solution to this problem is a little voltage conversion board that is 3€ extra. The 5V and 3.8V versions differ in a resistor on the VCC line. Here you can check which version of the Throttle mainboard you have: https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/135000-new-hall-sensor-kits/?do=findComment&comment=2916178 Price is 22€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cougar Ministick/ Slew replacement This mod replaces the original Ministick of the Cougar Throttle. Often times the original Ministick is worn out and as no replacement parts are available from Thrusmaster anymore a solution was in dire need for many HOTAS Cougar fans. The thumbhat is modeled after the earlier block original F-16 slew. The mod is completely plug and play. Price is 22€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cougar ANT sensor replacement This mod replaces the original ANT pot of the Cougar Throttle. Often times the original ANT pot is worn out and as no replacement parts are available from Thrusmaster anymore a solution was in dire need for many HOTAS Cougar fans. The implemented chip allows me to program the min/ max voltage output of the sensor to correspond to the exact min/ max angle actually needed in practice. For the Cougar ANT pot this means 270° of rotation in total. Important installation instruction: Price is 22€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- CH Pro Throttle, CH Fighterstick, CH Combatstick, CH Pro Pedals etc. magnetoresistive sensors The cool thing about these MR sensors is that they are a drop in replacement for the standard CH pots, but contrary to these they work contactlessly. That means you can simply connect these sensors to your CH mainboard and done. You will never have to worry about deteriorating or dirty pots again. The CH Control Manager recognizes this sensor normally and you can calibrate it within the software. Important installation instruction: Price is 22€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24 Bit shift registers for Cougar USB standalone, Thrustmaster gear, MMJoy2 These are compatible to the Thrustmaster hardware, to MMJoy2 and to my Cougar USB standalone adapter. The dimensions are 20 mm x 50 mm (0.79 in x 1.97 in), so they are very small and fit basically in everywhere. The pins are spaced in standard 2,54 mm (0.1 in) to fit normal header pins (see picture 2). I offer them either with or without header pins. The shift register is 24 Bit, so it has 24 inputs that you can connect buttons to. It can also be daisy chained, so you can put several shift register boards in series. Eg MMJoy2 supports 12 shift registers in series. So if you daisy chain 4 of my 24 Bit shift register boards, you have a total of 96 button inputs with just 2 pins used. If this isnt pretty damn cool I dont know what is. Price is 10€ + 7€ tracked international shipping (shipping is only paid once per order) If you are interested or want to ask questions please contact mtwsims@tutamail.com. No PMs please! Please note that sometimes I am rather slow to respond and it can take me several days to answer your emails. Payment via PayPal or SEPA bank transaction, but for PayPal I would have to add the fees on top. All sensors are designed, assembled & hand soldered by me. Every single sensor is then checked and calibrated manually. I can proudly say all my mods are 100% Made in Germany.
  5. Hi all very new here, trying to follow the A10II C training flight for HOTAS, I get put in auto pilot mode and the trainer talks me through the different buttons, hats etc then all a sudden, the auto pilot disengages and i spiral ground words and I crash. My question is this Is there a recommended Warthog combo profile that I can download from somewhere I also have TM MFD and Crosswinds MFG pedals in my setup. Many thanks for any help? Kind regards Humpster
  6. A few days ago my Warthog throttle died like so many others and I just wanted to post a quick fix that just might get you going again until you can sort it out with an official board replacement/repair. This worked for me and I have not seen anybody else recover their throttle in any posts I have read. I found that by reducing the 5V line on the USB cable to less than 4.5V, the throttle came back to life. I did this by simply putting a Non powered USB hub between the throttle and PC, you could also add some other items onto the hub to load it down a bit more. Most people seem to try connecting direct to system board or another powered USB hub thinking it might be a low voltage issue causing the throttle to fail, which is the logical way to think. Another alternative would be to supply your own external power to the USB line to the throttle only that can be adjusted to less than 4.5V, isolating the power line from the PC/Hub, but only do this if you are confident in what you are doing. If you are faced with a dead throttle or stick give it a try, if you have had a failed firmware update you will have to do the firmware update again and get the last green verification tick before it will work properly. You can read my full ordeal with this issue here: https://forums.eagle.ru/forum/english/dcs-world-topics/input-and-output/thrustmaster-aa/64402-post-motherboard-specs-of-bricked-tm-warthogs-here-please?p=7130525#post7130525 Cheers Tri.
  7. Thrustmaster mods --------------------------------------------- F/A-18C (Hornet) grip upgrades OTTO P1 push buttons | OTTO T4 trim switch | OTTO T5 sensor control switch F-16C (Cougar) grip upgrades OTTO P1 push buttons A-10C (Warthog) grip OTTO P1 push buttons | OTTO T4 trim switch | OTTO T4/T5 hat switches for TMS/DMS/CMS A-10C (Warthog) throttle NEW--> Full mil-spec switch upgrade [OTTO, Cutler-Hammer, Honeywell, Mason] --------------------------------------------- Just a heads up, guys - the friendly engineers at Thrustmaster made it easy to swap their stock TM buttons with OTTO buttons to massively improve the clickity on the new Hornet grip same as what you can do on the Warthog grip. I opted for the 2.5 lbs actuation force for the pinkie and full 4 lbs for the pickle button. OTTO product numbers are P1-11111 and P1-11121 respectively: Here we go mashing buttons on the grip like a fool. No trouble reaching anything. Disassembly of the grip is pretty straightforward but you will run the risk of bricking it and you will probably void your warranty. First remove the paddle lever by unclipping the c clip and pushing the shaft pin out. There’s a spring in there and a small washer on the shaft. Unscrew the three hex bolts in the handle and pop the cover off. One of my bolts wanted to stay in the grip. Unscrew the PCB and push it out of the way. Unscrew the neck part that’s held in by a single bolt that also holds the ground wire and a small lock ring. Disconnect the pinkie button connector from the PCB and pop the button out through the front by pushing in the tabs on either side. You may need to rotate the button in place with pliers to be able to access both tabs. Cut the wires, strip the ends and solder them onto the OTTO button. You’ll want as much wire as possible for the new button as it can get a little tight in there. The OTTO button has a smaller diameter than the TM button so wrap some electrician’s tape around it; press it into the grip and connect it to the PCB. Fasten the neck part and PCB back into the grip and move on to the top part. Unscrew the two outer screws in the top part and pop the plastic top back and rotate it out of the way. The pickle button should be easy to pop out by pressing the two tabs in. Note that you have to cut the wires before removing this button, unless you want to try to disconnect it at the main PCB and re-threading the wire back down the neck of the grip. Replace it with the OTTO button same way as the pinkie button: leave as much wire in place in the grip as possible and use electrician’s tape to make a tight fit. You could file down the contacts or remove some plastic backing in the grip at this point if you want to set the OTTO button as deep as the stock button. I didn’t do it so mine sits at a very slight angle. Be careful not to pinch the flimsy wires and screw the top part and cover back on the grip. The paddle lever goes on last and it can be a bit tricky to get the spring seated correctly. Upgrade complete! Here's a short video showing how to get the paddle lever spring back on: In terms of difficulty I’d say this is easier than modding the Warthog since there’s fewer buttons to mess with. I suppose you could change the spring or the tact switch on the Hornet paddle lever but it’s not going to be as much of an upgrade as what’s possible on the warthog with a P1-11122. Compared to the Cougar though this is a walk in the park. Seriously. Don’t mess with the Cougar like I did. It takes a lot of Dremel grinding to fit the OTTOs in there and the result is not going to be as neat as what’s easily possible on the Warthog. Also, the new pinkie switch gets in the way of the paddle switch since they’re much closer together. Well, good luck if you decide to mess with your grips!
  8. Servus, Mein Warthog Throttle von TM funktioniert plötzlich nicht mehr. Also keine Reaktion beim einstecken seitens PC oder throttle. - alle USB Ports ausprobiert - am Kabel rumgewackelt - Aufgeschraubt (innen sieht alles gut aus - soweit ich das beurteilen kann) Hat jemand schonmal sowas gehabt? Evtl ein Wackelkontakt? Hat jemand Erfahrung mit dem Support von TM? grüße
  9. Inaugurate a server dedicated to the buying and selling, as the name says, of all the elements related to the world of virtual simulation. Few rules, just don't be too Spam, be respectful and please invite your friends to visit us. There will always be discounts, news and many more things that we will be adding little by little. We create an open community, without hindrances and with the only objective to exchange information and get good deals. There are channels for everything .... We are authorized dealers of Thrustmaster and more than 50 other top brands in the world of Gaming. Our website is virtualpilotstools.com . There you can make your purchases. We are also manufacturers of cockpits that will revolutionize the market and will be available to all budgets and all spaces. Join our server !!!!! ...... our motto is .... "You have the wings, now you just have to fly"".... Discord: Virtual Pilots Tools#9308
  10. Hi Team, I've found when on Open Beta the past few days the game will hang on the title screen when my thrustmaster t300rs racing pedals are plugged in. The game will continue to load once they are unplugged. I use the pedals for my rudder control. No crash logs as game isn't crashing. Issue only seemed to begin around 30 April - prior to that it was fine on 2.7. We had a similar issue on the update to 2.6 so not sure if this is the same again.
  11. Hi, I installed DCS again after some months off and wanted to fly the newly purchased A-10C II. Sadly the coolie hat isn´t working. I thought maybe it is broken, but when testing and recalibrating the throttle outside of DCS everything is OK, at least in the Windows 10 testing window. Did everyone know this error or could point me to an approach how I could find out the problem? I also loaded up Arma 3, mapped the coolie hat to the vision and could without any problems move my vision in any direction using the coolie hat, so it must be a problem with DCS... I hope somebody could help me. Greetings
  12. So this was driving me insane... one of my MFD 's would consistently disappear... but, I couldn't find the conditions under which it would disappear, I thought I had a cabling problem ... nope... I thought it was that the script I was using to create 128 buttons in TARGET... nope etc... A little about my controller set up: Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS which I configure using TARGET, to get a full 128 buttons MFG Crosswinds v2 3 x Thrustmaster Cougar MFD 1 x Razer Tartus (configured as a joystick button box, because I prefer discrete DX button presses, as it creates less confusion keyboard collisions etc) 1 x Stream deck (configured as a joystick button box, using vjoy, because I prefer discrete DX button presses, as it creates less confusion keyboard collisions etc) I obviously turned of vjoy first and thought that fixed it but then in game, nope it would not work, re scanned device etc... nope still nothing ... I start looking into the Game Controller UI in desperation. Clue 1 I noticed that my MFD2 wouldn't configure correctly via the Game controller UI (even though it would still work in game) it would just show as a joystick, but, labelled as the Tartus so I pulled each of the controllers in turn, until i got it up as MFD... turned out it was the Tartus Resolution 1 I changed the MFD from MFD 2 to MFD 4 (luck more than logic) in the Game Controller UI, with the Tartus unplugged, each MFD number has a different VID in windows, so i guessed it was colliding. Each MFD now showed up correctly as an MFD the the Game controller UI. I ran Target and low there were still three MFD's hurrah ... or so i thought... I get into game and the MFD3 has gone AGAIN... some muttering (well swearing) what the hell is going on. Clue 2 why the hell do i have VIVE controller listed in DCS. 2nd order diagnostics (when does the MFD vanish) ... after many stages of testing it MFD3 only vanishes once Steam VR starts only when i have one or more hand controllers active (assumption what if to do the game controller mapping in SteamVR they are mapping the controllers to a VID that just happens to have collided with the MFD, as the newer device they would overwrite the existing device and the MFD vanishes, only if you run TARGET Resolution 2 Change MFD 3 to MFD 8 to see if that works it does hurrah Are we nearly there yet... no we bloody aren't Turn back on vjoy that works, turn back on the tartus and OFFS the configuration of the MFD4 via the Game Controller UI has c*cked up again... note the device works in game but FFS I won't less this beat me... Resolution 3 Turn the Tartus off Move the MFD to 7 because that is next to 8 that will be safe right ... wrong ... well 5 is next to 4 ... wrong ... 6 hurrah! Finally Left MFD1 is fine, my Right MFD is set to MFD6 in the UI, and the Center to MFD 8... conclusion getting multiple MFD's to work with multiple joystick devices is a complete pain in the bottom, and it would be really nice if the manufacturers would use a mechanism of ensuring their virtual joysticks dont collide with each other...
  13. Hey Gents, I was fortunate enough to receive the TM Hornet stick for Christmas from a loved one and so far I love it. The only bugbear is what's in the title. If I command the switch forward, it will click forward but stay there until I command center. If I command aft from the forward position without stopping in the center, there are two clicks, one out of the forward position and the other into the aft position. It's the same if I command Right on the switch as well. There's a single click when I command right, but to return to center I have to move the switch back to the center position myself. This doesn't happen when I command WCS left however. If I command Left and release, there are two clicks, one into the left position, and the other back to the center position. I've tried googling to find an answer but all I found was topics on this forum about control setups, which I'm not concerned about. So, since I came up with diddly on my own and I know there are at least a small handful of IRL Hornet drivers who are involved in the community, my question for them is this, is the switch sticking in the aforementioned directions a feature or a bug? It's not a huge deal for me either way, but if it's a bug and not a feature, I'm going to start looking into how to fix it. Edit: I forgot to add that I know there is no WCS Left in the IRL Hornet so that's what's leading me to believe that the switch staying in every commanded position except Left is a feature and not a bug.
  14. PART 1 Hello and welcome to my Thrustmaster Warthog throttle pinky switch replacement guide. I live in the UK and have found it difficult to find any information with regards to replacing the pinky switch in the UK specifically. I found numerous vids and advice on HOW to replace it, but not WHERE I could source the correct switch from in the UK. This guide presumes you are comfortable taking apart your beloved throttle and have access to, and can use, a soldering iron. No special tools are required. If you're reading this you probably already know that there are an abundance of SPDT switches out there, and if you don't know what one of those is, like I didn't, just google it. It'll make more sense. I found it difficult to decipher all the sizes and switch types so I wanted to share exactly WHAT switch I used and WHERE it came from at a very reasonable price. So lets get to it.... THE SWITCH From a reputable electronics company, RS Components. RS stock number: 7347139 REMOVAL OF SWITCH To remove, undo the 2 phillips screws holding the left throttle together. They are located on the INBOARD side of the throttle. The OUTBOARD panel that the switch sits in should now start to come away from the body of the throttle. ***NOTE - IF THE INBOARD PLASTIC PANELSTARTS TO COME AWAY, TRY TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING. THAT PART ISN'T DESIGNED TO COME AWAY WITHOUT FURTHER DISSASSEMBLY. You will find 2 black spacers inside that will become loose once the screws are fully removed. Take those out and keep them safe with the screws. At this point don't worry about which way around they go as I'll specify that later on. I'm going to have to break this post up into stages as my images are too big and limited to a max of 5MB per post.
  15. Living in Australia being so far away can suck at times, in this case Thrustmaster DO NOT have a support channel in this country. I have a Warthog Joystick that needs parts, I have examined the unit and know what I need to buy, can anyone put me in touch with a repair agent anywhere (most likely Europe or the USA, but if there's one in Asia) that would be awesome. After spending more than a $1000 on products you would think the support arm is able to support their products anywhere needed? Premium products demand a better level of support when spending this amount of money......... All I want is someone who can supply and ship parts to Australia. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
  16. This is my idea, but not finished yet. Basic parts: 2x Thrustmaster MFD Cougar 2x ZGYNK 8' 2x DP to HDMI conversion cable 1,5m 1x USB hub D-LINK H7 1x Lenovo TAB 3 8' + DCS UFC apk 1x Xinmotek XM-08 (button bar) 10x Button TS-12 (green light) Button bar 3D print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4755643 1x Lenovo TAB 3 8' + DCS UFC apk 4x USB extension cable 30cm (wireless headset, wireless mouse, PS2cam for TrackIR, free) 1x USB to Micro USB extension cable 20cm (Xinmotek XM-08) DDI panel - Plán.pdf DDI panel - Díly 7_2MM - TAB 8.pdf FA-18 BTN BAR PCB.pdf
  17. Did any of you guys give this one a shot? Thinking about because i'd love some physical feedback for the AB stages but some user experiences would be nice to have. https://www.shapeways.com/product/G4ZVFFBA6/viggen-afterburner-detent-for-warthog-throttle?optionId=110491504&li=marketplace
  18. I have the Thrustmaster T.6000M, there is a button on the back of the throttle which is like the thumbstick on a xbox controller. I want to use it as a slew for my SOI or Radar, but DCS counts it as a axis, not a button. Since the radar slew is a button, I can't use the thumbstick on the throttle. Is there a way I can change it so it works?
  19. Hey all, I'm experiencing a frustrating and intermittent throttle issue in the F/A-18C with my Hotas X. I've never had this issue in the past, and as I've just returned to DCS after about 6 months, I can't confirm if it was a specific update or not. OpenBeta - Latest version F/A-18C Sim Thrustmaster HOTAS X Windows 10 Oculus Rift CV1 JoyToKey for button box VoiceAttack The issue: When applying any amount of throttle input on my HOTAS, the in game throttle will move to the registered value, then slowly and "jerkingly" reset back to 0% throttle. Reproduction: Only happens on cold starts, which I know isn't game breaking but I wouldn't be flying with DCS if I wasn't looking for immersion. Cold start, regular procedures, throttle doesn't work properly. I've tried to detect a specific procedure (flaps, bit testing, FCS reset etc) that causes it, but it doesn't seem to matter. It's completely random, but if it doesn't occur by the time I'm ready to takeoff, the throttle works properly. Things I've tried: - Unmapped everything (I mean everything) from other planes, F/A-18C Game, and axis assignments from other sources - Reset all controls to default - Uninstalled/Reinstalled HOTAS drivers - Changed axis tuning on the throttle mapping - Tried different missions (I'm currently flying a custom mission, and I have checked and confirmed that Game Controls is unchecked in mission editor) - Checked HOTAS X game input (works proper) - Applied throttle input during startup procedure (this sometimes actually works, if I check the throttle input after each process) Summary: It's a very difficult issue to diagnose, as it seems almost completely random. It seems like there is another source of axis input that is causing it, but there is literally no other axis assigned in any other menu. I do use a button box for some startup controls (battery, set throttle's to idle, trims), which sounds like it could cause an issue; however, I've tried moving the controls off of my button box and using the default keyboard controls and the problem persists. A weird note is that the throttle mapping in the menu at 0% starts on the right, then as I move to 50% throttle it moves to the left to the center then disappears. As I move the throttle to 100%, it then continues to move to the left until it maxes out. It seems "reversed" but no amount of axis tuning or reverse box ticking changes this. In axis tuning, it's getting data for both the X and Y axis for the throttle (I expected to only see one). If I remove one of the axis so it only reads from one or the other, I get no input response at all. TM control panel shows expected input, starting at the bottom with 0%, and a steady increase to 100% as I apply input. I'm in the process of upgrading my rig, but this issue almost defeats the current purpose if I can never reliably conduct a cold start. I'm starting to think it's a HOTAS issue, but I've never had an issue with this joystick in the past, and it works properly in other titles. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Video of issue: https://streamable.com/sf4f8s
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