Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods

I'm in!

Sergey, there is something wrong with gerbers that you uploaded.

Seedstudio won't open it and here is what OSH Park says:

Can you please make another wersion but just for your Suncom PCB, original PCB I made myself in Eagle, it is not finished yet but will be in next few days.

OK, agreed. I've just checked OSH Design Tool Help- they require the exported files to be renamed; hopefully it's as simple as that.

Here is an updated archive. I've uploaded it to OSH Park- looks like all the boards/ layers are processed properly.

SuncomF15_V2_2.zip

Nice work Sergey Pe.I am definitely gonna utilize a PCB for my Talon Project. So i have been pondering the SMD world of soldering. So like debolestis was saying that this might be a advance solder job. I notice on Youtube there is a few different techniques. Hot air with paste and a smaller diameter solder wire. Which way have you used to solder these. I plan to master this smd parts by hand. But curious how every one does it? Thanks!

Thanks. As for SMD soldering- well, I've got used to a "traditional" process with a conical solderng bit (appr. 1 mm- diameter tip). The drawback is that you have to hold the part in place with one hand (using a smal tool- pincers or a long-blade cutter) while soldering with another hand- it requires good co-ordination and steady hands :). Also the headband magnifier is a must. For quality soldering apply plenty of neutral liquid flux (rosin + alcohol) and a MODERATE amount of solder. Some people prefer hot air soldering; it is a bit faster and easier for the beginners but requires a careful removal of paste residue afterwards as it contains some active components. Anyway, I've never tried it.

What size of SMD Components are we talking about? 0805? or 0603?

If you just using an solder iron, just apply soldier to the first pad, heat it up with your solder iron and place the SMD Part onto the location with a small pliers. Then solder the second pad.

You can also solder both pads with flux containing solder and just use the hot air technique. As long as you have NoClean solder, you good to go. If your solder, for whatever reason (Maybe old?) still contains halogen, then you need to clean it. Otherwise flux residue doesnt need to be removed anymore.

Don't overthink it. Just grab an old piece of PCB and play arround. Just use a good solder iron and quality solder. Don't go with those 15$ combo's where you cannot control the temperature. PB Free solder requires arround 350°C. If you plan to use solder with PB parts, then use arround 330°C on your solder iron.

I would go with the solder iron and the technique described above Easy, simple to learn and pretty quick.

And yes, Electronics is my job, not my hobby.

Good luck.

The size is 1206- by far not the smallest.

As for the non-mentioned parts: the switches are OMRON B3F; the bigger ones are 4055 model, the small one- 1055. Of course it's possible to use the buttons from the original board instead.

@ Sergey Pe,Thanks! This is good info ill try my soldering Iron first. Probably pick up some different tips.

@swissMAG not sure what size the SMD parts are.I have thought about some of those units on amazon. 3 in 1 so i guess the key is keep a eye out for a unit to be able to adjust the heat if i have to upgrade.Thanks.

I found this

Thats the DIY way, yeah. This is a better example for fine pitch cases:

@Brewix. A good Solder Iron will go a long way. Exchangeable tips will give you the most flexibility. Here at work we use the JBC line, but those things are overkill and overpriced (700$+ in Switzerland). Previously we mostly used Weller and they worked good.

If you buy one of those cheap ones, you might buy a replacement soon again ;-).

Ok this is good. I feel better on the small stuff. Thanks all! wow that video is a eye opener just smear solder down the row of pins!

Sergey Pe /Debolestis

I would very much appreciate a tutorial and a parts list.

Thanks guys, im greatful for the help and certain i would not be the only one benefiting from this.

Sergey Pe /Debolestis

 

I would very much appreciate a tutorial and a parts list.

Thanks guys, im greatful for the help and certain i would not be the only one benefiting from this.

+1 that. I'm working on a Debolestis Xfighter to WH conversion ATM and have been eyeing the sun com conversion if the Xfighter goes well

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Sergey Pe /Debolestis

 

I would very much appreciate a tutorial and a parts list.

Thanks guys, im greatful for the help and certain i would not be the only one benefiting from this.

I'll post parts list and detailed instructions. I am still finishing PCB. I ordered a lot of SMD components, mostly from China and now I have to wait. It will take a month probably for everything to arrive. I am sorry for that but I couldn't find all components locally.

I am finished with PCBs for now. You can see them on image below. I also made SMD shift registers for my SFS throttle, and PCBs for 4way and 5way switches. It is ordered and now I wait.

I'll post parts list and detailed instructions. I am still finishing PCB. I ordered a lot of SMD components, mostly from China and now I have to wait. It will take a month probably for everything to arrive. I am sorry for that but I couldn't find all components locally.

No problem at all (i too have ordered stuff from there and had to over a month at times)..like i said, i appreciate the help. The PCB that you posted, are some of those parts for the throttle? I have the throttle too and , of course would like to update that as well.

Such is life with Chinese orders

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A colleague "USB'erizd" Suncom SFS with MMjoy2, but don't make changes in grips - only add a wire for button #21 in Pinky (exist but just replicate #20 in original SFS)

.

So just need a breadboard for support Arduino and connect the original cables coming from grips - the diode matrix is already installed. Ugly but work. :)

This remaining original PCB is support for DB-15 connector, is just covering the hole.

https://s24.postimg.cc/9epwmw411/SFST_original.jpg

No problem at all (i too have ordered stuff from there and had to over a month at times)..like i said, i appreciate the help. The PCB that you posted, are some of those parts for the throttle? I have the throttle too and , of course would like to update that as well.

If you want tu USB mod SFS throttle it is better to go with diode matrix. I wanted to use shift registers for my SFS. It is my thing, I just hate matrix.

I designed two smd sift registers for each throttle grip. Register that I have now are too big and it is mess inside.

PCB finally arrived. I must say that I am very happy with the result.

I copied the shape from old PCB that I had.

And here is assembled PCB, it looks great. I didn't have switches in through hole version, only in SMD, but they also fit.

Bottom side. Here is 12mm switch, All switches that I ordered seems to require more force to actuate than original.

It also fits inside grip nicely.

Now it is too bad that it doesn't work. It is so irritating when you wait for something for a month and then it doesn't work. Now I need to see what I did wrong. I'll post results soon.

Looks nice and clean.

Just as curiosity, what purpose of that LED? :)

Some models like Talon have LED there, it is optional.

Yes, but in original Suncom this LED indicate if are using keyboard emulation or no.

In modern USB controllers what this will indicate? Or LED just will be ON all time?

It is always on, just to look pretty.