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Radiators open or auto?


Campbell

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You want to drop the coolant door into manual before turning on the battery when starting up. Leave the oil in auto. It will warm up quicker.

After takeoff, flip it to auto.

Now, the more closed the coolant flap is on the back of the intake, the faster you can go. The intact actually produces a bit of thrust, so not only it makes it seem like it's not even there, it increases speed. If it's closed, or near-closed.

Having them open will increase cooling the more it is open. But for the coolant door, the more it is open, the slower you can generally go. Not sure on the oil doors though.

Generally, after takeoff, it's best to leave them in automatic.

Solty would know more.

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You want to drop the coolant door into manual before turning on the battery when starting up. Leave the oil in auto. It will warm up quicker.

After takeoff, flip it to auto.

Now, the more closed the coolant flap is on the back of the intake, the faster you can go. The intact actually produces a bit of thrust, so not only it makes it seem like it's not even there, it increases speed. If it's closed, or near-closed.

Having them open will increase cooling the more it is open. But for the coolant door, the more it is open, the slower you can generally go. Not sure on the oil doors though.

Generally, after takeoff, it's best to leave them in automatic.

Solty would know more.

 

 

 

I fly with Solty pretty regularly, he keeps his in Auto, I’m just just curious as to what others are doing.

 

 

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I open it manually when oil temps go above green, otherwise on auto.

When you hit the wrong button on take-off

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I map Open, Close and Auto for both the oil and coolant radiator. I pay attention to them and if they go over the green at all I'll manually open them while fighting for a bit and then continue to pay attention to them. As soon as they start to stabilize I put them back on auto.

 

Essentially...

The system that opens them doesn't kick in as quick as I'd like so I open them manually and then switch them to auto at more optimal times.

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Always on auto. As Zach said, flip them to manual before turning on the battery (both) so that you don't drain it while the engine is off. Flip them to auto when the engine is running. I wouldn't leave it on manual until after takeoff, because you spawn with them closed, and you risk overheating the engine during takeoff.

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I fly with Solty pretty regularly, he keeps his in Auto, I’m just just curious as to what others are doing.

 

 

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Most of the time I fly on auto but if an enemy is trying to run in a straight line and especially if we both have high speed above 400mph I close it. But you have to keep your eyes on the ball and temperatures. If you fly uncoordinated your engine dies, if you turn and do not change to auto, it dies, if you fly too slow it dies. And always run (at low altitude) Emergency rich mixture. If you don't your engine dies. I told you that you know...

 

Anyway, flying with any other setting is a waste of time. Especially for me as I already have to use RPM regulation via buttons and look around by using the HAT and not to mention the radiator door open themselves on auto if your temp is too high.

 

I have not noticed any reduction in engine failure when opening manually the radiator anyway. I have to check again during climb but flying at 61' killed my engine last time I tried

 

In DCS you can't really climb on MIL and WEP. It always leads to engine failure when you are climbing at the listed climb speed :/

 

PS. Real life manuals say to leave it on auto during flight at all times.

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The problem is that the radiators are set to auto open/close when the temp is already just outside of the green (on the cold or hot side). Also... and maybe the larger problem... they open and close VERY slowly. So..

 

I find if I'm going to do something that will heat the engine quickly then I can start opening a radiator after a quick glance at the gauges to see if either are close to the top of the green or warmer. That said... don't check if there's pretty much any chance of losing sight of your enemy. I can guarantee that I've been able to make the engine survive longer in a vertical fight manually opening the rads for a few seconds before getting to the top and having more power doing it. Of course after opening them just before the apex I then click them back to auto just as I start to gain real speed.

 

Like Solty says though... If I need to bug out or chase someone down I'll close them down but not all the way. I close them until I can hear them hit the stops then I open them for 1.5-2 seconds. Just for a bit of safety. Especially on a hot day...

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  • 2 months later...
I fly with Solty pretty regularly, he keeps his in Auto, I’m just just curious as to what others are doing.

 

 

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If they worked right you could leave them in auto. Just open both fully and you'll rarely overheat. Anything else is wrong.

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If they worked right you could leave them in auto. Just open both fully and you'll rarely overheat. Anything else is wrong.

 

I'm guessing you fly the german planes a lot? You want more low energy Mustangs to shoot I suppose?

 

That's the only reason I can guess for giving such bad information.

  • Like 1

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There are no indicators in the cockpit so they need to be timed, or take advantage of the exterior viewpoint.

 

Coolant radiator takes a full 20 seconds to go from full closed to full open and vice versa and is the one of primary concern. Oil radiator is more reliable on auto in my experience so I have never timed it.


Edited by Shahdoh
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There are no indicators in the cockpit so they need to be timed, or take advantage of the exterior viewpoint.

 

Coolant radiator takes a full 20 seconds to go from full closed to full open and vice versa and is the one of primary concern. Oil radiator is more reliable on auto in my experience so I have never timed it.

 

Thanks for the quick reply!

 

That's quite a bit longer than I was expecting. Probably explains why I didn't notice a significant effect.

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Thanks for the quick reply!

 

 

 

That's quite a bit longer than I was expecting. Probably explains why I didn't notice a significant effect.

 

 

 

Yes that is correct it takes about 20sec or so to fully open. If you have your volume set high you can also hear the motor running as they open and stopping once fully open. Normal operations are in auto you can tell this by the covers. If the covers are down then they are in auto.

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  • 7 months later...

I don't think I've ever manually adjusted the water radiator flap, but very often the oil radiator flap, but you have to manage it, which means, only when the temp goes above green and then back to auto right after. Also, you have a few minutes above green until you really have to worry.

 

WEP is only useful above 5000 feet. So you really should be thinking about where to use it to your advantage.

When you hit the wrong button on take-off

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I don't think I've ever manually adjusted the water radiator flap, but very often the oil radiator flap, but you have to manage it, which means, only when the temp goes above green and then back to auto right after. Also, you have a few minutes above green until you really have to worry.

 

WEP is only useful above 5000 feet. So you really should be thinking about where to use it to your advantage.

 

Wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the info. EDIT: I have heard that only one of the flaps need to be manually opened while the other can stay on auto like you said. It's for sure the oil? I only ask because I have heard opposite versions.


Edited by baylor703
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WEP in the Mustang is VERY usable below 5000 ft. Myself and several others here participate in online racing with the mustang and there is a significant advantage to using WEP no matter the altitude. If you do not use it, you will not win a race. The same could be used in combat if you need to catch or run from an opponent.

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I always have them both on auto, unless in wep which I crank them open. Is the increase in drag with having them open on WEP even worth it?

 

The trick is to limit drag by closing the dampers as much as possible while maintaining air flow for cooling.

 

In WEP and Full Throttle, the dampers can be all but closed, however you must maintain your speed to maintain the airflow.

 

And as Shahdoh has stated, we fly just above the ground (100-300 feet AGL) all the time with everything punched as hard as we can punch it. And it all makes a huge difference.

 

And for example, if you are Full Throttle, RPM's @ 2700 and WEP on, you are going to lag behind the others if you have your Rad Dampers on Auto due to the drag.

 

Shahdoh is "the man" when it comes to this stuff.

His knowledge and sharing of the same, dramatically increased my performance at the Races this year.

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The trick is to limit drag by closing the dampers as much as possible while maintaining air flow for cooling.

 

In WEP and Full Throttle, the dampers can be all but closed, however you must maintain your speed to maintain the airflow.

 

And as Shahdoh has stated, we fly just above the ground (100-300 feet AGL) all the time with everything punched as hard as we can punch it. And it all makes a huge difference.

 

And for example, if you are Full Throttle, RPM's @ 2700 and WEP on, you are going to lag behind the others if you have your Rad Dampers on Auto due to the drag.

 

Shahdoh is "the man" when it comes to this stuff.

His knowledge and sharing of the same, dramatically increased my performance at the Races this year.

 

After testing it out some, you all are definitely right. Here is the result of a quick test I ran. Trim wasn't perfect, but the point remains that having the radiator flaps fully open all but negates the benefit of WEP:

 

6K Feet (all ias):

310 MPH @ Combat settings w/ auto rads

310 MPH @ WEP w/ fully open rads

340 MPH @ WEP w/ auto rads

 

10K:

320 MPH @ Combat settings w/ auto rads

320 MPH @ WEP w/ fully open rads

350 MPH @ WEP w/ auto rads

 

20k:

280 MPH @ Combat settings w/ auto rads

290 MPH @ WEP w/ fully open rads

300 MPH @ WEP w/ auto rads

 

I don't feel as comfortable as you all closing the flaps, but will do a few practice runs to see how far it can be pushed.

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@baylor703

 

Try closing the Rad all the way and then open it with 4 x 1 second presses of the Open switch.

 

Fly balls to the wall on the throttle; full WEP @ 2700 RPM.

 

Then IF and whenever the temp appears to be getting at the top end of the Green zone, open the OIL Damper for 5 seconds (which is completely open). Most people don't believe me but you will see that the temp drops rapidly when you do that.

Then you can close the Oil Damper up to keep the drag to a minimal ... however I often leave mine wide open for the duration of a race.

 

With the Rad open only as much as I suggested you will get maximum cooling with minimum drag as long as you remain above 250 mph. And this way you can remain in full throttle and WEP for over 18 minutes (as we had to do in Shahdoh's "Gudata Race Course" in 2015).

 

Try it as I have mentioned and when you are satisfied that your engine will take it, you can experiment with opening/closing the damper a little bit either way. There is a sweet spot there.

SnowTiger:joystick:

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