Where do You purchase your Magnetic Switches?

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There's another small detail with those switches: To engaging a magnetic held switch you need the same force as with an ordinary switch. However disengaging it (while being magnetically held) requires quite a bit more force (I'd say 1.5-2 times the normal switching force).

Cheers,

DSP

This is a test I just did on an 26ET26-S where you can see how it operates

https://youtu.be/_8M3T7OF4ZM

Cheers

Hans

Thank You, Hans.

This video brings the last missing answers. Cool.

I think, now I can bring it home.

Stupidly I am heavy involved in other matters (declaration of income, e.g.) so my next steps will be some delayed.

What I already done:

Lever is set into the bushing (works well)

Housing is ready (looks good)

I'm on checking different options to limit current (or voltage - outcome is almost the same) after switch has reached ON-Position (we mustn't lose the focus on costs of a single item, so I try to keep it simple) and "everyone" should be able (if he can handle a screwdriver and a metal saw) to remake it at home.

If the copper is delivered I start learning to make solenoids (bigger is better is what I know right now)

Another milestone will be dimensioning and fabricating of the retention spring. It should have the right force and it has to act linear or degressive!!! (by the right angel of attack).

I also thought about a plus option: I'll add 2 or 4 green LEDs on Top for panel's backlighting. Dimensions of housing will take some place. So you have just to make a Front Plate from a translucent acrylic material, glue black film with cut lettering. Ready.

That's today's update. :)

You should all so check the Viperpits site there is some information there on Mag switches

True but that applies for the real mag switches. I think Tekxx is making his own coils. Nonetheless there is some good info here;

http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=4583.0

http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=5902.0

Tekxx you may want to include the flyback diode in your design.

Cheers

Hans

Tekxx you may want to include the flyback diode in your design.

Coil + MOSFET = sudden death!!!

I knew this before :)

Inside the housing will be enough space for any electronics, as MOSFET, Diode, Resistors for Backlighting.

At the End you have to feed it with

• 12V DC (used for Solenoid and also Backlighting),
  
• 5V logic for ON,
  
• PWM 5V logic for Backlighting (I mean, this is the most usable way to dim backlight)
  

Also there will be

• GND
  
• Output ON + his own GND (for Matrixes)
  

Six Pins. Thats all :). Good idea will be to add a second linked socket to connect up to four switches (a simple kind of bus for clear layout of wires).

---------------------------------------------------

Viperpit are a closed Community. Even reading is just for members. Not sure, if I should support this... I am a open source fan ;)

Meanwhile I have a new design with a vertically mounted solenoid. Much more space for copper and core and much more easy to fabricate and mount.

Let me bring it together and we'll see..... :)

Picture is just a preview.

Edit: Yesterday I mounted a model, just consisting of housing, bushing and lever (looks like a hammer). Spring was simulated by a rubber band.

Works very well.

I'm confidentially I can bring it to work.

Main problem (technically the only remaining one) is balancing all involved forces. So further tinkering is focused on gadgeds for finetuning and shifting the whole "Klapparatismus" (there is no english expression for that mechanically assembly) ;)

First Tests success (with some faults)

Heureka.

I did a first prototype. (still without any electronics)

We won't get a FAA-licence for it, but it works. Technically.

Look at the pics. Both pics are token at OFF-Position.

Don't mess with my wireing. I couldn't await to see it working so I took what lies arround :)

What I have learned: I need a bigger Solder Iron and a middle sized box of 1-mm-Drill-Bits ;)

It (the lever) is a little bit untensioned cause of unsufficient power.

From READY-Condition*, lever is to push in ON position without almost any resistance. But it flies with a KLICK in ON position if it's powered by remote.

I had to make some agreements due to DC (duty cycle) of solenoid (heat). Right now it becomes just about 35 °C.

As I assumed earlier, balancing of lever length, spring tension, travel ranges and AoA of all involved forces is the key :) Thats why the solenoid is off vertical alignment.

Maybe tomorrow I'll take a video while working. (New wires and some kind of test bed is to do before).

* READY-Condition means OFF position with 12V present, but circuit not closed yet (will be closed if lever pushed manually in ON position)

This is very interesting looking.

It could get cleaned up abit and it would be awesome.

Great Work :)

Nice progress Tekkx :thumbup:

cheers

Hans

That's it, my friends. :)

Still with no electronics - just a simple self-hold-circuit with a push button to simulate Remote-ON.

Now I have to remake all parts in a craftsman-like manner and reassemble whole shit.

Than I will share - if you want - some drawings and parts lists (even with prices).

I know, during next 2 or 5 months I won't become a famous Videomaker (this is my first attempt - and maybe the last ;) )

My wife is a professional at those things (with diploma) .... but I won't involve her too much... :)

By the way: I have changed project's name from Magnetic HOLD.. to Magnetic ACTUATED Switch :)

syaw7o3idp8

Well done Tekkx. I must commend you on an excellent effort.

Two very important qualities for a successful cockpit builder is creativity and ingenuity. I see you have both. I'm looking forward to seeing your finished cockpit.

Thank you so much for all the time you have put into this project and also for making your results available to all. That's what we are all about.:thumbup:

John

Thank You, Warhog, for your kind comment.

But my intention isn't to build a cockpit. I have neither place nor time/money to do it :(

I found just a problem and the urge to solve it :)

It's just a gift (or let's say: return) to the community.

Otherwise, since I've detected facetrack (works likely well) and with this side panels are almost impossible to klick to, it seems I have no other choice to build SOME LIKE a cockpit.

So, maybe, I use the prototype for building a LASTE panel.

But my intention isn't to build a cockpit. I have neither place nor time/money to do it :(

 

I found just a problem and the urge to solve it :)

Welcome to the club!

That is totally awesome, looks like it Works like a charm :)

Great job.

Wow

That is a very clever solution to a quandary. You have my respect, thinking outside the box, amazing. Welcome to the problem solving community. :thumbup:

Thank you all. I'm so happy to have got your appreciation.

Stay tuned for the next steps (even those will delayed, because some real life really exists - instead there is the matrix at all).

Meanwhile I have

• the DEVICE completely disassembled
  
• increased lever's travel angel for some degrees (with still unknown side effects)
  
• made a parts list (not closed yet)
  
• planned arrangement of 4 LEDs and 2 PCBc
  
• did some general dreaming
  

Next steps are

• layout of PCBs
  
• crafting two studs
  
• redesigning pivot points
  
• reassembling
  
• disassembling
  
• make drawings
  

But my intention isn't to build a cockpit. I have neither place nor time/money to do it

I Know. I understand. I was the same. But it starts slowly. It's like a drug thats fun once in a while. Then you say "well maybe just on the weekends" But then you start to want it through the week as well. Then you start to need it... That's how it always starts. That's how I started... and now I'm hooked.:( :megalol:

But I love it.:pilotfly:

it seems I have no other choice to build SOME LIKE a cockpit.

and so it begins.....:music_whistling:

:megalol:

Thank you all. I'm so happy to have got your appreciation.

Stay tuned for the next steps (even those will delayed, because some real life really exists - instead there is the matrix at all).

 

Meanwhile I have

• the DEVICE completely disassembled
  
• increased lever's travel angel for some degrees (with still unknown side effects)
  
• made a parts list (not closed yet)
  
• planned arrangement of 4 LEDs and 2 PCBc
  
• did some general dreaming
  

Next steps are

• layout of PCBs
  
• crafting two studs
  
• redesigning pivot points
  
• reassembling
  
• disassembling
  
• make drawings
  

Tekkx if I can give you a hand at the drawing part...I work in AutoCAD and can export .dxf files to those who would like copies for milling parts such as the PCB.

Just let me know and I'll be there.

John

Tekkx if I can give you a hand at the drawing part...

You made an inviting offer.

I do all my sketches at CorelDRAW! cause I can and have nothing else. I took in early 90s some AutoCAD R14 lessons, but due to absent working and licensed copy I forgot how to do with :(

So my sketches (at the end drawing-like) all in good old 2D, called "senkrechte Zweitafelprojektion". I have no idea how's the english expression. I have - if needed - three different looks (front - side - top).

(If someone knows the english term: PM me. So I will improve this post)

For flat objects works CorelDRAW! very well.

My PCBs I gave as *.tif to the etching man www.platinenbelichter.de.

Laser cutting of Acrylic Panels I sent as *.svg to Formulor.de

Cutting of Cover-Film and Text I sent also as *.svg to a local advertising agency.

(All links are only interesting to the german freaks. Sorry.)

Why I tell that?

Due to lack of experiences I'll need - if the time comes - instructions in which way I drop the data for further handling and adaptation.

Update: Yesterday I overhauled lever-bushing-assembly (I love it), did the Backlighting-PCB (looks good) and caught an exhortation by my wife: "... is there nothing more important do do?????..."

She's right. There is still this Tax-Matter. (Long lives Procrastination!)

Hello, dear Community.

While I did (due to lack of time) very small progress (not none) in fullfilling my order I followed the steps in adapting stepper motors in DCS-BIOS.

The Boys are doing great work there: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=141095&page=12

This great work inspired me (as all of those action) to make some thinking about options regarding Mag Actuated Switch:

Maybe a stepper solves the problem of heating treatment and weak forces.

The stepper moves - instead of the lever directly - a second lever and alters AoA between Spring and (Main-)lever. Servo's Lever and Switch's Lever are just linked by the Spring.

So you have - if switch is manually actuated - not to act against the stepper.

Attached is a quick made sketch of my thoughts. I am at work right now :)

Note: NO scale! No Switch yet!

Principle:

A spring holds the lever in its position and pulls it back if lever is actuated under "cold" condition.

Remote Actuation:

In case switched device (EAC e.g.) spools up, stepper moves in pos B (right), spring moves over a snap-point (or whatever the term is) and lever jumps to ON position and is now held there by the spring.

Manual Actuation:

Lever is to push against the Spring and activate Micro-Switch or Reed-Contact (latest concept).

Activated Device (EAC e.g.) spools up, DCS-BIOS sends corresponding signal to Servo. Servo moves secondary lever into B. Main Lever stays in ON position.

Similar in reverse action.

Terms:

First: Stepper has to move quick.

Second: Stepper has to be strong enough to act against spring's force.

Advantages of this solution:

First: There is no solenoid which could overheat while holding switch in ON position. Stepper has to work just a few milliseconds. There is NO current in terminal positions.

Second: Force of Spring could be chosen relatively strong, depending of stepper's size and AoA.

Drawbacks are:

First: Ian has to write special code (or has to modify it)

Second: We would need a driver board, cause I don't think, Arduino can feed such a strong stepper on its own.

Third: Almost all I've done till now is scrap.

Fourth: I have no adequate hardware on hand to do some testing.

For this application, I would use a servo instead of a stepper motor. We don't need the very precise positioning of a stepper. A servo has several advantages here:

• does not need a separate driver board
  
• requires only a single Arduino I/O pin
  
• no need to worry about zeroing it (although you could probably zero a stepper by driving it against the limit switch which you'll have anyway)
  
• I think servos may have more torque compared to steppers in the same size and price brackets
  
• Servos are commonly available anywhere you can buy remote controlled toys, so you could probably pick one up easily
  

If you want to build it, I can probably knock out the code you need in an hour or two (including testing and debugging time).

So that's your points one, two and four taken care of. And no matter how this turns out, everything you have done until now is not scrap! You built a real mag switch, so you have something to compare your servo experiment to. You will know the material cost, effort and difficulty of assembly, and quality of the end result in both cases, which will help you and others make an informed decision about which way to go.

Thank You, Ian, to prop me up ;)

Your recommendation to use a servo is agreeable.

Maybe I find one in one of my junk boxes (did some RC experiments in the 90s.

Stupidly I purchased a stack of solenoids just today :doh: and I found a neat solution to fire the solenoid by Darlington.

If the "Servo-Project" runs fine, I can still resell them.

That's real spirit of research: You have to be able to reboot your project. :)

I have sufficient Alu-Profile and other stuff on hand. So I can screw sth. together.

I'll report if I'm ready for further talk on.

Brake a Leg!

BTW: Here are my PCBs

Left is on top with 4 LEDs and Reed-Switch (instead of the micro-switch)

Right is the Control- and Amplifier-Board with MOSFET for LEDs and Darlington for Solenoid

Black is Top-Layer

Blue is Back-Layer (that's why as mirror)

Red are the devices.

Update one day later:

Purchased two different Servos (at a bargain price) and a Servotester (to activate Servo w/o running DCS)

Top PCB (LED backlight and Reed Contact) isn't obsolete.

Control PCB is to overhaul because we'll need 5 to 7 Volts to drive the servo.

If the stuff is on my hand I'll do a prototype, controlled by this Servo-Tester, and we'll see :)

Another important Update:

If someone has the intention to follow this way (with solenoid):

Note the updated PCBs: Between Base of Darlington and Control Input (Output of Arduino) a 10k ... 100k Resistor has to be included.

Otherwise you get full 12Vs here. Consequences aren't subject to explain ;)

I already killed my brandnew Servotester, also by unobjective mixing of 2 testing situations (means: stupidity). It was just 2,50 Euro. Cheap lesson :music_whistling:

Short update

Hello friends.

I'm still alive. Work on switch is on progress, due to extern influences just on idle throttle :(

I've got a very small and cute servo (third shot). It has sufficient power, acts very quick and fits to our limitations of place. And it was less than 6 Euros (w/o shipping).

I think - based on actual data - I can start bringing the parts together in two weeks (means end of Oct 2015).

One little problem is there: Vendors of such equipment (below 100 Euros per device) are very stingy with data. Datasheets aren't available. All three of purchased Servos have a moving angel of about 90 degrees (45 in each direction).

This is a little bit tight to our matter, should work, but 100° to 120° would be perfect to reach the "snap point" secure and reliable (I keep tracking the FAA-License). ;)

I use a Servo Tester device to move the Servo. I have no idea, if the moving range is limited by the Tester or by the Servo itself.

As you may know, I am a dipshit in programming. Also I have no idea to simulate the right PWM-signal to check out, what the servo is really able to.

So: Is there someone who can provide some code for an Arduino (I have several on hand)?

One button to move full in one direction at maximum speed, one button to move reverse at full speed. That's all. Do not integrate it to DCS-BIOS, so I can make tests w/o other tinkering.

Later this code would be the base for final MagASwitch related DCS-BIOS code.

(Don't want involve Ian too much with this. He has to graduate in a manner to become our pride and joy) :)

That's for the day.

Ready for further talk on.

:poster_offtopic: PS: While doing some tests with headtracking I loose more than 3 planes. I hope, my insurance comes up for this :joystick:

And - you will already know - another Edit (one day later): It seems that I am some dopy: There is a ready-to-use servo library for Arduino...

That should work for me to test my installation in about two weeks.