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Modular Panel WIP


Blue73

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Hi, The Nano's cost me $4AUD each, compared to each toggle switch, $5-$6, so cost isn't an issue. I didn't consider an all-in-one option, but this wouldn't work for my design anyway as the bus transceiver is tied to the box (DB9 connectors) and the controls are tied to the Arduino which is attached to the top plate. Having the two separated is more flexible, a single cable disconnects the two. I've got a good pace going with the front panel at the moment, when the printer is busy I'll take a look at custom PCBs.

 

cheers

 

John

 

Did you look into making your own custom pcb with arduino and RS485 combined on a single board?

 

 

Just wondering because you're using a lot of Nanos and building a lot of MAX487 boards. The nanos can get expensive. I know you can reduce the cost of Arduino by building them yourself. Although i'm not really sure by how much and if its worth it, especially if you're ordering custom PCBs.

 

 

Just curious if you looked at this route at all, and considered time/performance/complexity/cost/size trade offs?

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...The Nano's cost me $4AUD each...

 

 

Wow. I guess i didnt realize how cheap they can be. i was just going off the 'official' Arduino store prices, which i assumed was inflated, but i didnt realize by how much! That certainly shifts the cost-benefit equation!

 

 

Thanks! :thumbup:

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Wow. I guess i didnt realize how cheap they can be. i was just going off the 'official' Arduino store prices, which i assumed was inflated, but i didnt realize by how much!

 

JFYI: 10 Nanos via Aliexpress to Canada incl. shipping will be ~2.50 USD/pc.

 

Pricing is really at bottom:

Almost not worth designing an own PCB - except for limited space or for 'academic reasons'.

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JFYI: 10 Nanos via Aliexpress to Canada incl. shipping will be ~2.50 USD/pc.

 

Pricing is really at bottom:

Almost not worth designing an own PCB - except for limited space or for 'academic reasons'.

 

 

Thanks. I've always been suspicious of the quality of the low prices on sites like these. I've read somewhere that for discrete components (eg LEDs) you really need to account for a few duds and test everything.

 

 

What are your experiences with the quality of the Arduinos? are they "inexpensive" or are they "cheap"?

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Don't want to go too much OT in here, sry Blue....

 

I regularly order in China via AE or eBay. Quality of my ProMicros was OK. As there are dozens of sellers, there sureley maybe some black sheeps, but all overall I'm satisfied with almost every transaction. Needs some time for shipping, but thats OK. Experienced some lost shipments, but every issue was solved.

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Small update, created new side car to handle the canopy control and the FCS BIT switch. These vertical modules have been updated to allow them to be run up along the side of the standard modules. The last photo shows how they're connected.

 

5vMtvay.png

 

6fZS7Q6.jpg

 

 

65ntdIC.jpg

 

WY4EkOG.jpg

 

37Gd1Rw.jpg

 

Undershot that shows how the modules are connected together.

 

9mNVIEi.jpg

 

cheers

 

John

 

 

that lot makes me want to go buy a 3d printer and get creating, awesome work

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System : 9900k 5ghz, 32GB 4166mhz Ram, 2080Ti, Hotas Warthog, Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswinds, VR + TrackIR, All Modules For DCS

 

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Yes same experience for me, out of all the Nano's I've bought, and they were all from local eBay with free shipping, I've only had one that was faulty. And it was probably my fault anyway.

 

 

 

Don't want to go too much OT in here, sry Blue....

 

I regularly order in China via AE or eBay. Quality of my ProMicros was OK. As there are dozens of sellers, there sureley maybe some black sheeps, but all overall I'm satisfied with almost every transaction. Needs some time for shipping, but thats OK. Experienced some lost shipments, but every issue was solved.

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Hi All,

 

At the moment the DDI is work in progress. The knobs need vapour smoothing and I need to wire up the POTs and push buttons to the Nano. The push buttons have a 3D printed head that connects to the button. The travel is a smooth 2mm. The unit is scaled 1:1, 6.75" wide.

 

O2nmLX4.png

 

Behind face plate.

 

1k9MDu9.png

 

Front and mid sections. I'll print the rear box once I confirm the correct depths.

 

SBSaEnx.jpg

 

I've got some 2mm perspex coming that I'll back paint dark green.

 

oPn3JkQ.jpg

 

4sKH9L9.jpg

 

cheers

 

John


Edited by Blue73
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Hi RightStuff, I size the best I can from photos only, all my stuff is like that.

 

But I met someone just recently who owns a real f-111 simulator. I noticed allot of the knobs were the same as the Hornet. He's allowed me to go down there with callipers to build accurate 3D models. Those pull RADAR knobs were there, so they'll be updated.

 

I was surprised how big the DDI is compared to the Thrustmaster DDI.

 

cheers

 

John

 

...and we see another from you. :D Great job!

 

Btw.: Where are you gettings the dimensions from?

 

Gear, Bleed Air, Hook,... all seem to be in R/L size and by no means like based on an educated guess.

 

Mind you, telling us your source? ;)

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Blue73, did you see the super hornet grips I 3d scanned in another thread? Just raw scans, not cleaned up at all.

 

https://skfb.ly/6I7wL

https://skfb.ly/6I7yw

 

If you are mad enough you could build new grips for the warthog and put the original switches inside.

 

I also reverse engineered some terrible madcatz hat switch design awhile back in sketchup, made a few switch tops from the superhornet grip as well

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944


Edited by TomVR
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Hi Tom, That would be a fun project to do and much easier to achieve using your 3D scans. Are the SuperHornet grips the same as the F/A-18C? I might do it to my throttle using DCS-BIOS, I'll cut out a small port for a MicroUSB port for the Nano, or maybe go the standard HID route with a Leonardo.

 

Blue73, did you see the super hornet grips I 3d scanned in another thread? Just raw scans, not cleaned up at all.

 

https://skfb.ly/6I7wL

https://skfb.ly/6I7yw

 

If you are mad enough you could build new grips for the warthog and put the original switches inside.

 

I also reverse engineered some terrible madcatz hat switch design awhile back in sketchup, made a few switch tops from the superhornet grip as well

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944

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Blue73, did you see the super hornet grips I 3d scanned in another thread? Just raw scans, not cleaned up at all.

 

https://skfb.ly/6I7wL

https://skfb.ly/6I7yw

 

If you are mad enough you could build new grips for the warthog and put the original switches inside.

 

I also reverse engineered some terrible madcatz hat switch design awhile back in sketchup, made a few switch tops from the superhornet grip as well

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3452944

 

that is awesome work!.

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From what I’ve read so far, the main differences is the shape of the speedbrake switch (normal hornet is symmetrical) and the 4 way pyramid countermeasure switch is just a two way. The exterior mold lines are different too, so its the same shape but cast differently, i guess to fit the extra direction hat switch.

 

This post has some great pictures.

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3564627&postcount=48

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Thanks Tom, thanks for the info, some great ref photos in there!

 

 

From what I’ve read so far, the main differences is the shape of the speedbrake switch (normal hornet is symmetrical) and the 4 way pyramid countermeasure switch is just a two way. The exterior mold lines are different too, so its the same shape but cast differently, i guess to fit the extra direction hat switch.

 

This post has some great pictures.

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3564627&postcount=48

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