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Help with blowing engine!


wolfstriked

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:joystick: Ok,so I am really starting to love this module except for one thing and that is I cant figure out why I seize the engine so much.Here is my technique so maybe someone can see what I am doing wrong.

 

War emergency power as I understand degrades engine and after the wire is broken the engine will need an overhaul.After a fight with using WEP I usually blow the engine on way back to airfield,even with using the max cruise settings and engine temp at lower part of green.

 

That said just now I blew engine with engine temp at lower part of green temp gauge with no WEP and just a minute of flying around.What I have been doing lately is to use the RPM to control engine temp and I wonder if this is a no no.Is a low RPM with max manifold pressure bad for engine?

 

 

And then there is combat where I find I have to micromanage my engine so much that I have a hard time following the AI....nevermind an actual player.When in a dogfight and I am zooming up with target in my sights I notice the temps quickly go past redline and so I drop the RPM all the way down in hopes of cooling the engine as I follow the enemy down.This causes the enemy to just zoom away as I have no thrust from my low RPM settings.If I decide to leave it in higher rpm's I risk blowing the engine.

 

 

Finally......I really feel that the engine needs some torture sounds to signal that you really over did it and you will need to baby the engine in order to make it home.


Edited by wolfstriked

"Its easy,place the pipper on target and bombs away." :pilotfly:

 

i7-8700k/GTX 1080ti/VKB-GladiatorPRO/VKB-T-rudder Pedals/Saitek X55 throttle

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That engine needs a lot of massagin yes, you are doing everything right, just open your radiators for oil and coolant fluit all the way by pressing ALT S/A (if you did not so far) to cool the fluids down, that helps initialy, and also keep in mind these radiators need airflow in order to work so fly fast:thumbup: And a another way to cool the engine down a bit is to use the emergency setting on the fuel lever (all the way down). hope that helps.

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I also had that problem. Over the flap handle there are two handles that slides backwards, has something to with air/temperature/hot/cold Pull them both into the full backward position.

Be conservative with rpm and throttle, put it in cruise settings and keep monitor your temperatures. Also, speed helps with cooling, so keep your speed up.

 

Well, there is probably someone who can explain better. But pulling those levers back helped me a great deal. When flying up high, you might want to try other settings.

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Just for the record, in real engines, reducing RPM while keeping high MAP might exceed allowable pressure limit for cylinders, provoking preignition and/or detonation. Not healthy for the engine. For any given RPM, there's an optimal MAP that shouldn't be exceeded. That's why You always read that MAP and RPM adjustments must be made in correct order: increase RPM followed by MAP, decrease of MAP followed by RPM, not the other way around.

 

Now, I don't know how detailed engine damage in DCS is (I recall improved detonation modelling being advertised in patch notes a couple of months ago). You can abuse it for a couple of minutes, but maybe prolonged periods of strain cause faster failure in current version of the game.

 

As for the temps, radiator doors in P-51 are controlled by a simple relay switch type mechanism, so they react to the temperature with a delay. Not a big thing when cruising and diving, but serious problem at low speed & high power situations, as the temps can go through the roof before radiator doors react. Some players switch to manual control and keep them wide open to deal with it, but still, You need a hefty airflow through the radiator to keep it working efficiently.

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Also if you are in a DOG fight try to use energy management, meaning do a manouver by pulling up, bring one of your wing's down @ the same time when you slow down decrease your RPM/MAP and as soon as you pull the plane over into the dive increase your RPM/MAP and speed up, this way you are not that easy to shot down rather then fly one continuous climb on high RPM/MAP settings and slowly lose speed and the efficiency of your radiators, and never let the radiators shut.

 

And no matter what you do, if you do that kind of dogfight against a 109 its only a matter of time until your down, use the weight of your Mustang to gain speed and run.

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Thanks for the advice guys.Just now I flew a 1/2 hour with no engine seize,though I have no idea which advice is the one that helped.:D

 

All said I still feel the P51's radiators just don't cool well enough.Here is a video I just posted that shows me at cruise settings and you will notice my temp gauge is high and the only way to bring the temps down is to lower rpm drastically.Put the settings back to optimal cruise and the temps go right back up which makes for the climb to alt always at high temps.

 

Te thing that I wonder about is which temp gauge to read.The main gauge(?) I keep an eye on says 85deg while the actual coolant temp gauge reads 100.:huh:

 

 

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsD6tupJDpU[/ame]

"Its easy,place the pipper on target and bombs away." :pilotfly:

 

i7-8700k/GTX 1080ti/VKB-GladiatorPRO/VKB-T-rudder Pedals/Saitek X55 throttle

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screen_160530_204848a9u33.jpg

 

Oil temperature gauge is the most important one.

 

screen_160530_205108ftuek.jpg

 

And to set the fuel lever to emergency click with your right mouse button two times from cutoff or one time from run.

 

wolfstriked: are you sure your radiators where open? because when i cruise on these settings i never blow the enigine if the radiators are open.

Ok i rewatched the video, you have to hold both switches to the open position in order to open them for 15 seconds! and after that leave them in the center position, do not close the guard's!

 

 

screen_160530_2107204ypzm.jpg


Edited by LURKINGBADGER

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Thanks,didn't know that the main gauge was actually the oil temp.Should I worry about keeping the line in the green or just not to exceed the redline?

 

Also,do you agree that she runs a bit hot at cruise settings?Just now I checked up high,where super charger kicked in,and at cruise she was running hot.Colder air I would think means a cooler engine but then its also thinner air so maybe it doesn't cool as well.:book:

"Its easy,place the pipper on target and bombs away." :pilotfly:

 

i7-8700k/GTX 1080ti/VKB-GladiatorPRO/VKB-T-rudder Pedals/Saitek X55 throttle

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wolfstriked: are you sure your radiators where open? because when i cruise on these settings i never blow the enigine if the radiators are open.

Ok i rewatched the video, you have to hold both switches to the open position in order to open them for 15 seconds! and after that leave them in the center position, do not close the guard's!

 

 

screen_160530_2107204ypzm.jpg

 

And there is the culprit......its the auto radiator that is malfunctioning.Should not the auto setting keep it mainly in the green unless you are climbing with excessive power and low speeds or diving with wrong settings?

"Its easy,place the pipper on target and bombs away." :pilotfly:

 

i7-8700k/GTX 1080ti/VKB-GladiatorPRO/VKB-T-rudder Pedals/Saitek X55 throttle

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Your like a huge bundle of info dude!:thumbup::thumbup:

 

What I think could be happening is the ground crew probably set the auto rad for winter.:music_whistling:

"Its easy,place the pipper on target and bombs away." :pilotfly:

 

i7-8700k/GTX 1080ti/VKB-GladiatorPRO/VKB-T-rudder Pedals/Saitek X55 throttle

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I'm not so sure the auto radiator function is "malfunctioning". As stated in the past by Yo-Yo there is a delay involved in the operation of the coolant radiator door. Because of this delay, rapid power changes can cause heat issues. I rarely manually open the rads unless I expect some slow/high power situations or extended time on the ground with the engine running.

 

With decent airspeed (200+) the auto setting is fine.

 

EDIT: After taking another look at your screenshot I realized you weren't even using Auto. Also Keep in mind it take a good amount of time to manually open the coolant door fully.


Edited by Merlin-27

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I was using auto for a long time in my video.At cruise settings on summer map and it runs hot is what I was saying.Winter map cruise settings and it runs really cold.I just think auto is not functioning properly.If I can open and close the radiators to achieve green then auto should be able to do this also as its supposed to work that way.

"Its easy,place the pipper on target and bombs away." :pilotfly:

 

i7-8700k/GTX 1080ti/VKB-GladiatorPRO/VKB-T-rudder Pedals/Saitek X55 throttle

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I'm not sure what the reality is--I mean how it works on real P-51's--but I have the feeling that there is more than just a delay in the automatic setting the radiator doors.

 

IIRC I've read that in the real-world, if you are on the ground for a a longer period of time with the engine running, you are supposed to open the radiator doors--oil at least--manually to prevent overheating the engine, when there is not the required airflow to provide cooling.

 

Whether this is because the engine heats up that quickly or because the automatic does not cover the full range of possible engine temperatures, IDK, but it might play a role. Just guessing though.

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What I have been doing lately is to use the RPM to control engine temp and I wonder if this is a no no.Is a low RPM with max manifold pressure bad for your engine

 

This is a big big no no. Overboosting is very much modelled in the P-51 and will damage and then kill your engine.

 

Try not to set your MP above corrisponding RPM unless for short peroid if absolutely needed. For example if at 2700rpm dont go above 46mp until you set 3000rpm.

 

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This is a big big no no. Overboosting is very much modelled in the P-51 and will damage and then kill your engine.

 

Try not to set your MP above corrisponding RPM unless for short peroid if absolutely needed. For example if at 2700rpm dont go above 46mp until you set 3000rpm.

 

Posting from my phone.

 

Agreed.

 

Of course you can adjust engine settings to counter heat problems. For instance, if you take-off with full power, it's in your best interest to reduce power soon after wheels up.

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Absolutely Merlin, and for the benefit of the OP etc, one should note when reducing power you should reduce first the throttle followed secondly by the RPM (and likewise increase RPM first followed by the throttle when increasing power - this helps to protect the engine from damage).

 

There are some very informative posts by Yo-Yo and Sobek on P-51 engine management with particular regards to both over- and under- boosting somewhere on the forum, trying to find them...

 

[edit] here's one such link (there should be a couple of old threads): http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=102754

My PC specs: Win10 64 Pro, CPU i7-3820 4.4GHz, 16GB RAM, GPU Nvidia 1070 (8gb vram).

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If overboosting is modelled, it doesn't seem to be a major threat, 'cause out of curiosity I've spent quite a couple of minutes flying around with time acceleration on, throttle to max while RPM to min (or somewhat higher to keep the supercharger pumpin' at least 40 inches) and... nothing happened really.

 

Pity, 'cause I love blowing engines in the name of science :D. Will try some other ideas later - maybe overriding supercharger to make it work in 2nd gear at low altitude?

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I like the "RPM up then MP and vice versa MP down then RPM".

 

I also take away from the post that just below the redline on oil temp is optimal temp so the auto rad setting is working fine.The green zone should not be even looked at as its wrong in both sim and real life P51.

"Its easy,place the pipper on target and bombs away." :pilotfly:

 

i7-8700k/GTX 1080ti/VKB-GladiatorPRO/VKB-T-rudder Pedals/Saitek X55 throttle

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[ame]

[/ame]

 

hollywood preflight starts @ 6:30, its all worth watching though.

 

coolant and oil in auto per this vid :thumbup: (obviously not comprehensive, but i dont think its quite right in DCS)

 

 

upon searching more: "both cooler doors open" @ 5:10

[ame]

[/ame]

 

now I'm confused


Edited by Integrals
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