Gizzy Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 They are not like the TMWH's you do not have to remove anything... turn the unit upside down and from memory (mines hard installed for a while) there are 2 sliding cams held my alan key grub screws... they are clearly visible... there is no cover to remove... slacken move the cam and gently tighten and you'll find the detent point has moved... There is one for each throttle.. It is simple and easy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_sukebe Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) They are not like the TMWH's you do not have to remove anything... turn the unit upside down and from memory (mines hard installed for a while) there are 2 sliding cams held my alan key grub screws... they are clearly visible... there is no cover to remove... slacken move the cam and gently tighten and you'll find the detent point has moved... There is one for each throttle.. It is simple and easy... Nice one, my thanks. Just had a play with them. Have temporarily disabled the detents, mainly because I fly a broad spectrum of aircraft, so setting them for say my F18, might feel weird in say the Harrier. Going to have a think about how best to use them. Edited November 3, 2018 by Mr_sukebe System: 9700, 64GB DDR4, 2070S, NVME2, Rift S, Jetseat, Thrustmaster F18 grip, VPC T50 stick base and throttle, CH Throttle, MFG crosswinds, custom button box, Logitech G502 and Marble mouse. Server: i5 2500@3.9Ghz, 1080, 24GB DDR3, SSD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OceanBlue Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 For the T1 switch with the red cap: so its a normal behaviour by design, that closing the red cap triggers the phys. button 32? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatchaman Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 If you decide to do something with the goofy red /yellow button , please document it! I set mine to autopilot engage/disengage and use the switch to its left to set Path/Altitude etc, feels very natural and good to have a design that makes it easy to find without looking down in flight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weedwacker Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 I set mine to autopilot engage/disengage and use the switch to its left to set Path/Altitude etc, feels very natural and good to have a design that makes it easy to find without looking down in flight. I use the big yellow button mainly for Landing gear toggle. Unless it's the Mig21, then I use the 2 position toggle switch next to it. I actually want to add a box next to it with dedicated controls for Landing Gear (actual handle that stows up or down and lights up) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranma13 Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 For the T1 switch with the red cap: so its a normal behaviour by design, that closing the red cap triggers the phys. button 32? Yes, it's a 3-way momentary switch where lifting the cap will release the switch to the center position and closing it will push the switch down to the lower position. There's also an upper position that you can momentarily move the switch to once the cover is open. I wish they made it a 2-way switch instead with a micro-switch to detect when the cover is open. The 3-way switch feels clunky when closing the cover, as it now has 2 'positions': closed but not fully pushing the switch into the lower position, and closed and fully pushing the switch down. I find myself either slamming the cover shut or having to close it and then push it one more time to ensure that it pushes the switch down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backstab Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 T1 is a bad idea and they should have known that. I turned mine into cover up is open canopy. Cover down is close canopy and the silver switch 3 times punches me out. If I am flying and I lift the cover to eject, the canopy opens and rips off but who cares I'm ejecting anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karon Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 T1 is a bad idea and they should have known that. I turned mine into cover up is open canopy. Cover down is close canopy and the silver switch 3 times punches me out. If I am flying and I lift the cover to eject, the canopy opens and rips off but who cares I'm ejecting anyways Nope, it's a brilliant idea. The reasoning is that some of the Master Arms have protective covers (F-14 for instance). Virpil's implementations allow you to bind the cover to the switch-down position so when you lift the RL cover, the in-game one is lifted as well. Otherwise you need an additional dedicated button to lift the cover, which is bloody annoying. I use that switch for the Gear so when the RL cover is down, the gear is up and safely locked. You can use the same principle for any system or function that should be used only in some specific conditions. "Cogito, ergo RIO" Virtual Backseaters Volume I: F-14 Radar Intercept Officer - Fifth Public Draft Virtual Backseaters Volume II: F-4E Weapon Systems Officer - Internal Draft WIP Phantom Phamiliarisation Video Series | F-4E/F-14 Kneeboard Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranma13 Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 No, it's not a brilliant idea. They should have put a micro-switch that gets pressed/unpressed by the cover itself. Instead, we get this kludge where if you close the cover too slowly, it doesn't have enough pressure to push the switch into the lower position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karon Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 Errr.. nope, it's still a brilliant idea. You solution works but you have to use divert an input pin/matrix point (nope), add more hardware (let's increase the price of the throttle a bit more, shall we?) and it's potentially annoying to bind depending on how it is implemented. How on earth do you close the cover too slowly? There's a bloody spring there, just push the cover a bit down until the spring kicks in and does the job. That's of course, unless you are closing it slowly on purpose or it's defective. If you are unhappy about that switch cover you can: - return the throttle; - get a file or cutters and mod the cover so it doens't push down the switch. Maybe someone sells something similar already, it should take a couple minutes, probably less. "Cogito, ergo RIO" Virtual Backseaters Volume I: F-14 Radar Intercept Officer - Fifth Public Draft Virtual Backseaters Volume II: F-4E Weapon Systems Officer - Internal Draft WIP Phantom Phamiliarisation Video Series | F-4E/F-14 Kneeboard Pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranma13 Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 It's just a micro-switch, it doesn't involve any more work than wiring up the current 3-way switch. All you have to do is replace the 3-way switch with a 2-way, then connect the remaining wire to the micro-switch: Binding it would be done exactly the same way that you'd bind the 3-way switch. Micro-switches are among the cheapest input devices you can buy, about $1.25 per switch at the retail level. Here's a whole list snap action switches that would fit the bill: https://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Switches/Basic-Snap-Action-Switches/_/N-5g2v?No=25 And there's already enough space on the PCB to fit one in. As for closing the cover, I have to guide it down a bit so that it doesn't produce the loud snap sound and bother the other members of the household, but as this video shows, it will consistently get stuck trying to push the switch to the lower position: Every time I close the switch cover, I need to press it down a bit more in order to ensure that the switch is pushed down. It's also not the switch cover, I have 10 other switch covers and I tested 2 of them and they all have the same issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 I'm considering getting this throttle but I'm concerned about the lack of three way toggles. T4 to T6 are not snap toggles and spring back to the middle, correct? The Warthog has the three way flaps switch, the three way lights switch and the three way autopilot mode switch. Is there anything comparable on this throttle? PC Specs / Hardware: MSI z370 Gaming Plus Mainboard, Intel 8700k @ 5GHz, MSI Sea Hawk 2080 Ti @ 2100MHz, 32GB 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM Displays: Philips BDM4065UC 60Hz 4K UHD Screen, Pimax 8KX Controllers / Peripherals: VPC MongoosT-50, Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS, modded MS FFB2/CH Combatstick, MFG Crosswind Pedals, Gametrix JetSeat OS: Windows 10 Home Creator's Update Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaron886 Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 Correct. T4-T6 are momentary 2-ways, spring loaded to center. T1 is the same, just with a cover that will mechanically hold it in one direction when closed. T2/T3 are two-position "latched" switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Majesco Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 The final lot of VPC MongoosT-50 Throttle's being prepared for next week's batch! May i get one v3 throttle like above ? I don't like the current v4 throttle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HC_Official Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 they dont make the V3 anymore No more pre-orders Click here for tutorials for using Virpil Hardware and Software Click here for Virpil Flight equipment dimensions and pictures. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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