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Boltz's A-10 Build


Boltz

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Looking forward to making parts but I decided to move the mill and build an enclosure for it. Didn't quite expect so many chips to come off it and being inside the house I need to keep them contained.

 

Started to paint some 6mm acrylic to try engraving that. Then I'll try a proper lightplate with backlighting.

 

John, I'm not using single line fonts as I'm actually not a fan of very thin engravings on panels. Instead I'm using a pocket operation to engrave every letter. 0.010" bit is making a couple of passes per letter so I could go smaller by easily reducing the thickness but I much prefer thicker letters on light plates. It really helps me to see the labels a lot easier when backlighting is not on.

 

I've also been learning about how to make PCBs and got a couple test files made up to try out. I can't wait to see these come to life.

Just need to finish this enclosure and wait for a couple more things to arrive then it will be good to go

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When you start to make PCB's Calum, there are two ways to design them and I have tried both.

 

The first one is the single line between traces method. You draw your traces and then use "engrave" to cut them. Its a fast way to produce a PCB. But there is a problem with this method. Tiny pieces of copper, almost dust like, hides in the lines you just cut. You can't see them but they are there. And sometimes when you plug something in "there is a short". I started examining all of my boards with a good dissecting microscope. Sure enough, the little bastards are hiding in the grooves. Not always, but enough times I found problems that I started inspecting the PCBs before I soldered them up with components.

IMG_0375.jpg

 

It was taking a bit of time to clean the crap out of the grooves or to at least ensure there was no crap so I tried another method. AFter drawing the traces as I always did, I started doing an offset of .006" for each trace. The result filled in the spaces between the traces with additional lines to engrave. Its still all one engraving operation but now it removes all of the material between traces. Its like pocketing but you don't need to make any tool changes for a larger dia bit. Eventually I used the BPoly command in AutoCAD to create and outline between traces and then offset this outline. That was an even faster way of doing it.

 

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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  • 3 weeks later...

So with much great advice from Warhog and others I've started making some parts. Most of my time is spent testing and adjusting things but hopefully I'll start speeding up now.

 

For panels I plan to use 6mm acrylic for the lightplates and 1.5mm aluminium backplates. Backlighting is provided by a PCB pocketed into the back of the lightplate. This construction will mean the panels are built very similar to real CAT 7 panels. I'm working towards a proper lightplate now I've got engraving tests done so I'll put up some pictures when that is done.

 

Panel backlighting PCB:

IMG_14951_zpsxz2y0pfb.jpg

 

LEDs are 3528 package and resistors 0805 package so quite small for soldering. LEDs weren't super cheap because I needed specific wavelength, brightness, package and in 125 degree viewing angle but there not bad price either. I've tested the backlighting in the various lightplate ideas and it looks perfect.

 

Next image shows 3 engraving tests

IMG_14971_zpsacdldiph.jpg

 

From left to right: 6mm white acrylic painted black; 6mm clear acrylic painted white layer then black layer; 1.5mm Rowmark engraving plastic. These pieces were simply cut to test the process so have plenty of scratch marks and lines cut by tablesaw :)

 

White acrylic does seem far too "milky" for me and light does not work great behind it. 6mm clear is my favourite method and I think looks the best. I need to work on paint process to get its quality better. Engraving plastic has too much of a glossy finish for me. It looks more professional but I'm a big fan of sharp white text on a matte panel so clear acrylic is the way to go for me.

 

It saves having to cut multiple layers and stack them together. Also room to round over the front edges before paint for a neater finish but again this needs testing.

 

 

I've got parts cut for engine instruments so they are coming along nicely but parts to reassemble the tubes are not due until Monday. But I have plenty more to make for when they arrive.

 

Cheers

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Still looking great, Calum! Just for fun, try hitting your engraving plastic with a quick coat of clear matte spray paint. I've found it puts a really nice, professional looking finish on it.

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

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Whoa that looks really great Calum :thumbup: Looks like you have nailed that paint thickness perfectly that you can remove just the black paint. Really pro job there. Can't wait to see some light on those panels

 

Keep up the excellent work Sir

 

Cheers

Hans

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  • 2 weeks later...

Trying to find a small roundover bit for the front edge of panels at the moment. It will only be 1mm but will take the sharp edge off easily.

 

Started working on engine instruments now. All faceplates and needles cut but waiting on more motors to mount them. These are original tubes with some faceplates changed and all converted to be driven by VID29 stepper motors.

 

Oil pressure gauges are finished. APU gauges need backplates and motors. Fuel flow needs soldered motors and then can be finished. Fan RPM needs gears to increase travel of motors. Dual pointer gauges need a bit more work :)

 

Working on a faceplate and mount for them all at the moment

 

IMG_15421_zpsy10wtvs9.jpg

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Thank you very much mac and gus!

 

The "tubes" each instrument is in are real original 2 inch instruments from eBay. I got them with random faceplates and needles for cheap. Only the 4 dual pointer gauges and APU EGT have the original faceplates. The others I had to replace with my own versions. I also had to change 4 needles for homemade ones and salvage 2 others from some other instruments. You can see 3 neeeles in the bottom row are just hanging down at the moment. They need some small brass tube to fix to the motor shaft.

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Hi Boltz,

 

keep up the good work.

 

Looks like you are constructing the frontplate and backlight the way I thought of making them :thumbup:

 

You just have one advantage, you've bought a cnc router :)

 

I'll probably ask a local rc plane manufacturer if he can make my frontplates and pcbs.

 

Cheers Sven

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  • 3 weeks later...

Looking for the following parts at the moment. If anyone can help then please let me know. It would be much appreciated.

 

- AQU-6/A HSI or equivalent like used in C-130

- TACAN Panel

- ILS Panel

- Airspeed Indicator - Just needs correct bezel, drum and a barber pole. Scale can be off etc.

 

If I can't find the airspeed indicator with the bezel with 8 small screws, then I'll probably use a cheap (if only) altimeter case with the internals from another gauge. Hopefully they would fit.

Many thanks

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First Lightplate Made!

 

After a lot of testing and waiting for parts I got the first light plate engraved this evening

IMG_1658_zpszkxexqrm.jpg

IMG_1663_zpspxif05ls.jpg

IMG_1660_zps5lt0pp3s.jpg

 

Last picture shows the backlighting PCB in place within the light plate. This allows aluminium backplates to be used instead of acrylic as I've found these to break on me when connecting them into a frame or just with heavier components.

 

I'm quite happy with it. They can be made better by tweaking the process slightly but each panel will take a long time to make by this method.

 

Next step is to start a couple more lightplates so that if one goes wrong I haven't lost all the work and start on building an IO system.

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Nice Calum! Very nice!

 

Excellent work Callum and yes that is exactly the same plate I use.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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  • 4 months later...

Nicely done i ordered some small head nylon fillister head screws because the layout is so tight. Let me know if you need a dozen i picked up a bag of 100.

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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  • 1 month later...

Anti-G Panel Completed

 

Finally something is finished :pilotfly:

bnzCPSO.jpg

yjmFiXT.jpg

ag1okhe.jpg

VQhdab2.jpg

 

Most processes are down for making some more panels

Engine instrument mounting plate is engraved and painted black. Waiting for the white paint to fill engraving

Some panels in wrong order on the console because wooden structure is in the way. Won't be a problem with metal consoles


Edited by Boltz
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VQhdab2.jpg

 

I had to laugh when I saw that picture Calum. It so reminded me of my own build in various stages of destruction... I meant construction.:smilewink:

 

Looking good my friend.

Regards

John W

aka WarHog.

 

My Cockpit Build Pictures...



John Wall

 

My Arduino Sketches ... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Dc0Wd9C5l3uY-cPj1iQD3iAEHY6EuHg?usp=sharing

 

 

WIN 10 Pro, i8-8700k @ 5.0ghz, ASUS Maximus x Code, 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum Ram,



AIO Water Cooler, M.2 512GB NVMe,

500gb SSD, EVGA GTX 1080 ti (11gb), Sony 65” 4K Display

VPC MongoosT-50, TM Warthog Throttle, TRK IR 5.0, Slaw Viper Pedals

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