Post MotherBoard Specs Of Bricked TM Warthogs Here Please

^ So I received the replacement PCB from TM. Identical 2010 board and CY8C24894-24L PSOC. Firmware 20. After a quick install I'm OPER again.

TM states that to avoid the issue its best to plug in the throttle after windows load, and unplug before shutdown.

In any case, after warranty expires, it should be easy to order a replacement part through them, it should be quite cheap.

My joystick borked during a firmware update. Still to send it off though have RMA

P6T Deluxe V2 here with an i7 920 CPU, I didn't want to leave the throttle lit all night so I switched the computer off at the PSU, throttle lasted three days before it died. In a dilemma now about what to do, unplug throttle from USB over night or waste power and leave it running?

 

I know someone else with the same mobo who leaves it lit up 24/7 since Nov and no problems with his.

Program the HOTAS lights to go out with a switch. I flip the switch to turn out the lights before shutting down the Target Program.

Starting up, I have to flip the switch to turn on the lights.

It appears my throttle bricked today too, after almost two years. I flashed it as soon as I got it to version 11, and had it running nicely ever since...

Two weeks ago I upgraded my PC (previously Asus M5A99X mobo and AMD 8150, now upgraded to MSI Z87-G65 mobo and Intel I7 4770k). The throttle was running fine initially, now after two weeks it seems dead...

'Unknown device' under Win7 Devices and Printers (joystick is listed correctly)... Green LEDs (the five leds next to the Friction control) light up for a brief second when I turn on the PC, then everything is dark (usually all the LEDs were lit up when the PC was on).

Doesn't help plugging it into a different USB port. Reinstalling drivers doesn't do anything.

Contacted Thrustmaster support, hope they can help out with this...

Here's a sitrep:

In case your TM Warthog throttle (or joystick) bricked, you can attempt the Bootloader method to restore it:

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00140.pdf

This effectively boots the throttle and joystick in a 'boot' mode which allows you to flash the firmware again and restore functionality.

This method is only effective if somehow the firmware is damaged.

In my case, the throttle didn't load into 'boot' mode, and it remained as 'unknown device'.

Thrustmaster support suggested that replacing the PCB might resolve the issue.

If your Warthog is still under warranty (and if you purchased it from an authorized retailer), Thrustmaster will send the new PCB free of charge and you can replace it yourself (or you can ship your throttle to TM service center and they will replace it for you).

In my case, I purchased my Warthog from an ebay store which is not an authorized Thrustmaster reseller, so warranty doesn't apply in my case.

I can order the new PCB for a fee of 50,50 euros, which includes postage charges (dunno what the price might be if you're in the US).

I'll go down this route and hope the new PCB resolves the issue.

Wow - 3 years on.

I think that is quite poor of Thrustmaster, regardless of where you bought it, there is a problem with the hardware, their hardware.

Whilst I respect limited warranty on buttons and axis and manufacturing types, they should accept there are issues with the product and do the right thing. Especially at the premium proce paid on this product.

If you return it and it turns out a snapped pcb or full of coffee the TM can advise it is not a warranty defect and either you pay the postage and inspection cost to return it, pay to fix it, or lose it...

Simples no??

Update:

I received the replacement PCB, installed it, and the throttle works once again.

So, the solution is here. If you have problems like mine while still under warranty, the PCB will be free, if it's outside warranty, it's 50 euros.

My throttle 13908 fried 2 days ago again on USB 3.0, still works on USB 2.0. That's twice in 2 years. Still on warranty so crossing fingers that I get another PCB.

It gets into bulk mode, but can't be flashed in bulk. It can be normally flashed but that doesn't resolve the issue. Fun.

2nd PCB arrived, seemingly identical as last time from 2010 with FW 20. Installed, everything seems to be working great again in all ports/HUB's. (flashed to FW 23 to be safe)

However I think I will no longer take the risk of using the throttle in a USB HUB. Direct connect only (not great for those setting up extensive pits)

I am yet another poor sod whose Warthog just became a brick! Serial 04242...worked perfectly up until a major computer upgrade I just did: got an Asus X-99 Deluxe...GTX 980s in SLI...etc...and wham! Tried to connect Warthog and Win 8.1 saw the throttle only as a bootloader...the familiar story...tried to update firmware...and failed at step two always with the dreaded 0x0000000c error. Have sent an email to Thrustmaster...have tried to set up stick on a separate, USB 2 computer...to no avail...so the stick is porked. Woe is me!! Really annoyed...given this thing cost me almost $500...and although I have had it for several years now, such expensive kit should not be brought low by a crappy piece of software. What to do???

Apoll

PS...further to my last....it is the STICK that the computer cannot see, and insists on placing as a bootloader...

Here's a sitrep:

 

In case your TM Warthog throttle (or joystick) bricked, you can attempt the Bootloader method to restore it:

http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00140.pdf

 

This effectively boots the throttle and joystick in a 'boot' mode which allows you to flash the firmware again and restore functionality.

This method is only effective if somehow the firmware is damaged.

 

 

In my case, the throttle didn't load into 'boot' mode, and it remained as 'unknown device'.

 

Thrustmaster support suggested that replacing the PCB might resolve the issue.

 

If your Warthog is still under warranty (and if you purchased it from an authorized retailer), Thrustmaster will send the new PCB free of charge and you can replace it yourself (or you can ship your throttle to TM service center and they will replace it for you).

 

In my case, I purchased my Warthog from an ebay store which is not an authorized Thrustmaster reseller, so warranty doesn't apply in my case.

 

I can order the new PCB for a fee of 50,50 euros, which includes postage charges (dunno what the price might be if you're in the US).

 

I'll go down this route and hope the new PCB resolves the issue.

So I've joined the ranks...

Seems my throttle has just failed (s/n: 19493). And right after I got back to being able to decently hover in the Huey! Shut down for the night, and next pc start up the throttle is dead. So I too went through the google search and did the boot loader and attempt to reflash but always failed with error code: "error: invalid memory metadata (code"0x00000012)" - whatever that means. I had bought the HOTAS set in Sept 2013, within a week, the Warthog Joystick had a failed button so was able to return it to Amazon and get a second set. Had updated the firmware on both to 11 (joystick) and 23 (throttle) at that time with no issues until now. I had them plugged into the front usb ports on my pc and as such would have to unplug on occasion to use the ports for other devices. Wondering if that affects the pcb? But here we are. Submitted the email for support highlighting steps taken. From what I've read - seems the answer will be a new pcb. $50 EURO is about $70 CAN according the the online conversion sites.

Yeah absolutely, I had that exact error when my PCB failed as well. At least you know what you're in for. They'll probably take you through some troubleshooting tips if they treat it like it's on warranty, follow the directions carefully to limit the time it takes to get the process complete.

If all else fails just tell them you want to order the PCB and be done with it.

I looked into why the flash may be corrupting on these devices a little, and it must have to do with the Vdd ramp up and stability vs how Thrustmaster set up the Cyprus micro controllers.

And my recommendation to everyone to avoid these issues especially once your warranty is gone (which Thrustmaster alluded to when I got my new board as well) is to plug in your throttle/stick once your PC is in windows or powered up properly, and unplug it before shutdown. (don't fiddle with the connector, just get it in there fast and snug) Don't power cycle your PC with the controllers plugged in and especially never do a HARD reset/power down with them plugged in. (best to have a UPS for power interruptions/spikes and to allow for safe shutdown)

I'll tell you one thing I've found. When the throttle quit on me, i figured I was done interacting with DCS for a while, but then I remembered I still had my Saitek Cyborg stick. So I disabled the twist in the Options axis and kept using my saitek rudders. What a joke! I had such a hard time maintaining some semblance of control of the Huey. Yes the stick is fairly old, but man, can I tell how much a difference quality makes! I know the TM Warthog is an expensive piece of hardware but it is well worth it if you wish to get the most out of, and enjoy the time spent engaged in DCS or any other sim. Now I remember how frustrated I was before I got the WH. The downside of course is the fact that there is an intricate electronic board involved and yes, they do fail. I work in commercial transport maintenance and I know first-hand that it doesn't matter what they are used for, smart devices can and do fail - be it NOx sensors in emission controls, turbocharger actuators, or even the engine controllers themselves can lose it. So I was not surprised when my throttle called it a day. My friend who I work with as well as fly A-10C missions with has informed me he's worried now his is gonna fail too (he's had his for a couple months longer than I). I told him if it hasn't, don't worry about it. If it does, now you know its repairable.

I still think its money well spent!

Comparing this to any automotive or industrial equipment (which isn't junk / recalled) is IMO wrong. Automotive ECM's usually last 10 to 30 years in VERY VERY harsh conditions. This controller is simply a poor implementation by use of these problematic Cyprus PSOC's and improper voltage/programming handling. And this under some of the most ideal conditions for electronics on earth (PC USB device). There is no real excuse, but yes compared to most other controllers it still probably is best barring this fault.

So to cap off what I am saying: ok the Warthog stick/throttle combo may be a little better than the other controllers on the market in lower price range, but at the price of the warthog today, it could have been made about 30% better = proper micro controller and voltage handling in throttle, metal throttle levers, swappable (screwed in not board soldered) throttle switches, higher quality ministick, metal joint interface knob and pins for stick, etc)

It took about 3 weeks, but they sent a replacement circuit board and the throttle is up and running. Seeing as my warranty period runs out this coming September, I hope it lasts longer than the original. :joystick: :pilotfly:

Hi Folks,

just to let you know that my throttle died last night after 4 years of good services !

Its serial number is : #03797

To make the story short, everything was fine until I shutted down my computer. When I started it again the next morning, no green lights were showing off from the throttle, unlike it usually did.

Now, some hints :

- No sound heard (the "bip-bip" sound when connect/disconnect a USB device) when connecting/disconnecting the throttle from my PC (unlike for the stick).

- Applied their boot bulk procedure with no avail. My throttle isn't powered up anymore, which is for sure.

To conclude, I will have to replace the PCB by myself, which is fine and won't cost more than 50 euros.

In this regard, and for those who already went through this procedure, I would like to ask some questions if I may :

- Is the replacement procedure of the PCB difficult ?

- Are you provided with a replacement procedure or DIY one ?

Thanks

Laurius

In this regard, and for those who already went through this procedure, I would like to ask some questions if I may :

- Is the replacement procedure of the PCB difficult ?

- Are you provided with a replacement procedure or DIY one ?

 

Thanks

Laurius

PCB replacement is quite easy and quick. Philips head screw driver, and flat head or small pliers should do.

The hardest part is detaching the hot glue without damaging anything (but not THAT hard)

It may be wise to glue the red grounding cable back in place with hot glue before reassembly, or some electrical tape.

No instructions.

Thanks a lot bn880 !

I wil keep your advices in mind !

So, to summarize, no infos given by Thrustmaster ??

Let's see how it goes and i'll keep you updated on what follows.

Cheers

Laurius

Right, they don't provide instructions on PCB replacement.

Hi !

I received my new PCB today from Thrustmaster, one week after the transaction has been validated.

The replacement was easy and fast as said by bn880, and really, no instructions are needed. Many thanks to him for his posts in this thread.

A sharp knife, such as those used in scale-modelling, tweezers with sharp and flat ends are of great help for removing the mentioned glue.

Before opening my throttle today, I searched our forum again and found a thread by <Grizzly> showing on this PCB and what awaits you when you open the device.

I thought the link to his thread would be useful here, since it's hard to find because it's no longer listed in the section it was initially posted in (PC hardware and related software) :

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=129488&highlight=TM+throttle+repair

In my case, nothing broke and I didn't find any nail... :D

Just treat the beast gently and everything will be fine.

Now, my throttle is back to life and I'm really happy:pilotfly:

At the moment, everything just look like before.

Finally, Thrustmaster customer service did a really good job on this.

Thank you

;)

Mine bricked this week. No lights at all,tried plugging into other pc,no joy. Tm software doesnt see second usb deviice (throttles) at all. Was plugged into onboard usb. How long does it take for suuport to get back to you. Emailed them thursday. Not heard from them yet. Looked inside and mb looks like maybe condensation issue. White traces of film on mb. Anyone else notice this. Maybe put a silica pack inside?

Are we any closer to finding out what causes this problem?