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Help Repairing CH Rudder Pedals


sobe

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The other day I wrote this to CH:

I have your USB joystick, throttle, pedals and MFD board and have had them for many years.

Currently, when I push the rudder to the left, the left brake is also engaged. Not a good situation when trying to land.

 

After several messages back and forth I got this from CH:

Most likely the potentiometers are starting to wear out, The only solution we can provide is to send a couple replacement potentiometers, but there are no other spare parts we can provide, and we are unable to provide any repair or repair instructions. Please let me know if you would like to move forward with two replacement potentiometers, and we will mail them out asap.

 

 

I said yes and they are mailing them to me. The problem is that I have no idea what to do with them once they arrive. So my question is-is there anyone who is handy that would like to help me replace them. I assume that we could do it by facetime or something like that. I live on the west coast (Oregon).

 

 

PS: I do not use the CH manager as it consistently caused me the BOD. So I just use the windows calibration and the controls in DCS.


Edited by sobe

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Is easy, just require a suitable Philips screwdriver and tip pliers.

 

EDIT - Remove the pedal brakes cover to access brake pot, slide the old out, fit the news use pliers to press wires tabs.

 

If you want look inside the base for smashed wires, before fit the new pot remove the brakes pads and then remove base top.

 

Remove base botton with pedals upside down is not good idea, became complicated re-assembly. With the above method is easy.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Could you explain your comment: Remove base botton with pedals upside down is not good idea, became complicated re-assembly.

 

Do you mind if I contact you again when I get the pots if I need help-I am not handy.

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I can't help you about the pots but it should be easy: find out the specifics of those used in the CH Pro Pedals, open the device, replace them and put everything back.

 

 

 

My pedals stopped working for the fairly common issue of wires cut. The reassembly is definitely quite annoying, you'll end up losing the bearings all over the place. The easiest way IMO is reassembly the whole thing upside down, with something keeping the plate raised and the pedals free to move (I've used a pair of dumbbells). You just need a bit of patience.

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vz 342

Thanks for the offer. I will take you up on that. I have the CH Rudder Pedals that are about 8+ years old.

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Could you explain your comment: Remove base botton with pedals upside down is not good idea, became complicated re-assembly.

 

At first do only this - for replace pot's of brakes is not need open the base.

 

- Remove (6) screws of both brake foot rest.

- Remove boot foot rest.

- Take a mark pen and mark the gear toot positions, for simplify the reassembly.

- Replace the pot's - no solder is need, just pliers. Reassembly.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=6634&d=1457839700

 

But if is need replace yaw pot too, that sit inside base - or fix smashed/cut wires, relatively common in that pedal when someone say "my pedal is broken", is need open the base, so before install new pots continue dismantling in this sequence.

 

- Remove (8 ) screws of the pieces that fit potentiometers in brakes structure.

- Remove the pot's - first take a mark pen and mark the gears tooth postions.

 

- Now you can turn pedal upside down and remove the botton screws, but try keep both of parts togheter turn then upright and put button the base on floor, and now can remove the top part without parts fall appart - specially the steel rolers of pedal rails.

 

After do the needed maintenance reassemble in inverse order.

 

If you do what seems the logical, turn pedal up side down remove screws and open the base, parts will fall appart - specially the rollers in "skates":

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=6633&d=1457839699

 

But removing the top with botton on floor this don't happen.

 

Pictures from this topic: https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/33216-Gameport-Yoke-amp-Pedals-USB-Conversion?p=99083&viewfull=1#post99083


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Sokol1_br

Thanks. That helps.

Trackir4 using the latest Trackir 5 software, Win10 Pro [Creator Update] updated from Win7Pro Pro 64Bit, Intel® Core™ i5-2500 3.30 GHz 6M Intel Smart Cache LGA115 , GigaByte GA-Z68XP-UD4 Intel Z68 Chipset DDR3 16GB Ram, GTX MSI Gaming 1060 [6 GB] Video Card, Main Monitor 1 on left 1920x1080 Touchscreen Monitor 2 on right 1920x1080 .

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At first do only this - for replace pot's of brakes is not need open the base.

 

- Remove (6) screws of both brake foot rest.

- Remove boot foot rest.

- Take a mark pen and mark the gear toot positions, for simplify the reassembly.

- Replace the pot's - no solder is need, just pliers. Reassembly.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=6634&d=1457839700

 

But if is need replace yaw pot too, that sit inside base - or fix smashed/cut wires, relatively common in that pedal when someone say "my pedal is broken", is need open the base, so before install new pots continue dismantling in this sequence.

 

- Remove (8 ) screws of the pieces that fit potentiometers in brakes structure.

- Remove the pot's - first take a mark pen and mark the gears tooth postions.

 

- Now you can turn pedal upside down and remove the botton screws, but try keep both of parts togheter turn then upright and put button the base on floor, and now can remove the top part without parts fall appart - specially the steel rolers of pedal rails.

 

After do the needed maintenance reassemble in inverse order.

 

If you do what seems the logical, turn pedal up side down remove screws and open the base, parts will fall appart - specially the rollers in "skates":

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=6633&d=1457839699

 

But removing the top with botton on floor this don't happen.

 

Pictures from this topic: https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/33216-Gameport-Yoke-amp-Pedals-USB-Conversion?p=99083&viewfull=1#post99083

 

 

 

 

This reminds me, take pictures BEFORE removing or disconnecting anything like springs, wires, etc.

 

That way you’ll know what things looked like “from the factory.”

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  • 3 weeks later...

reparing the rudder pelals with new potentiometers

 

CH was nice enough to send me two new potentiometers but when they arrived, one set of prongs were broken off. I have requested another replacement. Will keep you posted.

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CH sent me a replacement for the broken potentiometer and with the help of forum members, I replaced the two potentiometers and all seems to be fine.

Trackir4 using the latest Trackir 5 software, Win10 Pro [Creator Update] updated from Win7Pro Pro 64Bit, Intel® Core™ i5-2500 3.30 GHz 6M Intel Smart Cache LGA115 , GigaByte GA-Z68XP-UD4 Intel Z68 Chipset DDR3 16GB Ram, GTX MSI Gaming 1060 [6 GB] Video Card, Main Monitor 1 on left 1920x1080 Touchscreen Monitor 2 on right 1920x1080 .

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