taxi probs

well, I have mastered the snake technique!

that is I weave down any surface left and right, unable to stay straight, flight, even landings are ok, but taxiing seems to be a curse!

any advice to keep her straight? I head for example left, add the brake with right rudder and she will just veer right, if I don't add enough she continues left.

is there a way you need to lock the tailwheel?

well, I have mastered the snake technique!

that is I weave down any surface left and right, unable to stay straight, flight, even landings are ok, but taxiing seems to be a curse!

any advice to keep her straight? I head for example left, add the brake with right rudder and she will just veer right, if I don't add enough she continues left.

is there a way you need to lock the tailwheel?

No lock available.

I find taxiing at no more than 1100 rpm makes it quite easy.

Deflect the pedal in the direction you want to turn and then tap the brake, deflect tap, deflect tap.

Spend an hour just taxiing. Never look back. You'll be there.

+1 to DeepDrummers tip, use a throttle setting that gives you 1100 RPM only to taxi (can be challenging as it's only fractionally off the idle stop and your hardware might struggle to hold it so close without closing itself to idle, but do what you can), with brief excursions to 1500 only to overcome inertia when starting from standstill.

Also try not to use full rudder deflections unless absolutely essential; half deflection with a momentary 30-50% brake input I find satisfactory for general motoring around the taxiways.

When doing sharper turns, go full deflection the way you wish to turn, tap the brake, and then go full opposite rudder and attempt to keep the turn rate under control by feathering brake inputs to the outside wheel to stop the turn rate accelerating, getting heavier on the brakes as you approach your desired heading.

Assume you're using an axis for brakes?

It does get easier with practise, I promise!

thank you guys, I use a warthog stick n throttle set up, it hold the 1100 ok, I couldn't find a separate brake settings so you need to brake but use rudder as well which activates the brakes for that side.....or have I completely missed a settings somewhere

No nowt missing - you have a single brake activation lever on the control column. When rudder is centralised, any brake input is distributed evenly to each wheel; as you move the rudder it will send less (or no) brake to the wheel on the outside of the direction of turn.

You need to try anticipate what the plane is going to do and catch it before it does it. If you are starting to go left, you already need to be starting to get her to go right. It is a kind of tiny left, catch it with right, catch that right with a tiny left if that makes sense. If she is starting to swing it is already to late.

On my Warthog I have the finger leaver as the brake lever, I just use my little finger and tap tap tap, as I use tiny inputs on the rudder pedals. When I say tap I mean hardly any pressure and it is almost constant as I dance the pedals. As soon as I notice movement in one direction, opposite rudder pedal and tap.

Also pull back on the stick, the tail wheel does not lock, but the prop wash puts a little more pressure on the wheel pushing the elevator down and gives a little more control.

Make sure you have a nice curve on your rudder, the spitfire is very sensitive in the air and ground, you don't need a lot of movement to get her to do something. Soften out those pedals.