Tip...: Afterburner "disable button" save fuel

So we actually can adjust at which throttle level the AB kicks in? Without using curves?

Now you can use the vertical sliders below to adjust the curve. So if it is more shallow in the beginning it should move the AB towards the end of the throttle axis.

With the Warthog detent yoy need to tune it so the AB kicks in when moving over the hump.

Ohhh, so this is why I can't lit a Roman Candle anymore at take-off.... Much obliged OP.

Actually it's a feature introduced with todays update...

True, a new added feature. I'v already set a button for it.

But, where is the switch on Hornet?? I look over manual , throttle grip? throttle panel? I didn't find it

where is the button or switch in real Hornet?

True, a new added feature. I'v already set a button for it.

But, where is the switch on Hornet?? I look over manual , throttle grip? throttle panel? I didn't find it

where is the button or switch in real Hornet?

Loss of F18C Afterburner When SSAA Enabled

Here is some extra information. Confused me until I made a binding for 'cycle afterburner detent-ON/OFF'

Under Controls with no binding for 'cycle afterburner detent-ON/OFF' with FA-18C; I enabled SSAA under Option>System...after this aircraft has no afterburner flame with throttle at maximum. Problem is if I set SSAA to OFF there is still no afterburner.

However if I then create binding for 'cycle afterburner detent-ON/OFF' I can then have afterburner flame if I cycle to ON using this Control binding.

Looks like enabling SSAA disables the 'enable afterburner' in the Special Options for F18 for users with throttle hardware without an afterburner detent.

Question: Is this normal behaviour or a bug that enabling SSAA ON causes; and persists even if SSAA OFF?

Anyway I like that I have a choice to have or not have afterburner as afterburner really guzzles fuel like crazy.

Gary

Dear forum.

 

I found a cool feature today that I think many of you do not know about.

 

As you know with the f18c it is easy to turn on the afterburner by accident, here is a trick to avoid it to save fuel.. :smartass:

 

1). Open the F18c plane controls..

2). Search for the word "afterburner"

3). now you see the command " cycle afterburner detent ON/OFF

4). Assign a button on your keyboard or joystick to this button on the same page. ( by default this button is not assigned to anything )

 

5). Fly your hornet and fly with example 50% power.

6). Press the button you assigned tocycle afterburner detent on/off

7). now the trottle should stop at 100% power and not turn on the afterburner.

 

That is really cool :thumbup:

 

to turn on your afterburner, again reduce your power to example 50%

and click the button.. Now when you push your trottle to max it will go beyond 100% to like 150% with afterburner..

 

 

 

Happy flying...

Wow . That's cool. Somehow or other I have apparently disable my afterburner and cannot restore.

F/A-18C afterburner will not engage, since update 4. No other modules seem affected

@Tomsk...can you clarify?

Does the TM Warthog require a clumsy lift when the tab is installed?

How much and where did you shave? Maybe a pic of your craftsmanship would be good.

You got me really curious as I've never used the tab since I've always flown the A-10

Regards,

I didn't even know I had the reversible tab. I'd be interesting if it was just a barely noticeable dent, as I also play Elite Dangerous and lifting it over the notch all the time would be out of the question.

If you own a warthog don't arse about with the stock standard lift detent or assigning an AB toggle like I did. I used the toggle and it messed me up because I always forgot to toggle AB on in the heat of the moment when entering a dogfight.

I used a very sharp Stanley knife (similar to a X-Acto knife or hobby knife) and shaved the detent insert corner. I worked on the RH side first, shaved a bit at a time and tested, repeated the process until the push through was just right for me. I then worked on the LH throttle until the push through force was similar to the RH.

Don't shave both sides together because I found I removed different amounts of material LH and RH to get the "feel" right.

And when I say shave I mean scraping the blade across the insert almost perpendicular not directly slicing into it.

You can shave the detent down to make a smoother transition, or you can buy this part https://www.shapeways.com/product/3MJPNE2SV/warthog-throttle-part-afterburner-detent

I haven't tried either... yet.

I use the Shapeway and it's perfect. I always know where the detent is but it's easy to push through.

If I ever need to send in the throttle for warranty I still have the stock detent to put back in.

Just got the Shapeways part that removes both detents, well not quite actually. It still means that at the low throttle detent the throttle needs to be pulled up slightly, but the burner detent is a peach, the best I can describe it it akin to bump. All in all though it works well enough for me and increase throttle sensitivity.

Both stops appear to be around 20% top and bottom and the burner stop equates pretty much perfectly to burner activation. However once in burner I need to move back from the bump a little to ensure both engines disengage from burner. This has more to do with Hog calibration than the program I reckon.

What I found with the finger lift option, if I activate it go into burner and then come back out and make sure both engines have came out of burner.

Unless I move the throttle back a little from the burner detent to go into mil thrust only, I get one of the engines going back into burner without the finger lifts operated when I push through the burner detent again, the other engine stays in mil thrust.

Easy to fix just make sure to move the throttle back a little from the burner detent then forward again and it all works like a charm. So for the moment I'm using it to increase throttle movement

Currently using my SPDB button for the finger lift, SPDF for the brakes and CHF as an adjust on the speed brake if I need to trim it up or down a little. Although TBH so far I've never really felt the need to tune the brake.

Apologies wandered a little off topic there :doh:

Try adjusting the throttle curves so both engines just reaches 100% when the throttles are pushed up to the detent. That's what I did to get AB on / off exact over the bump on my shaved insert.

Just got the Shapeways part that removes both detents, well not quite actually. It still means that at the low throttle detent the throttle needs to be pulled up slightly, but the burner detent is a peach, the best I can describe it it akin to bump. All in all though it works well enough for me and increase throttle sensitivity.

 

Both stops appear to be around 20% top and bottom and the burner stop equates pretty much perfectly to burner activation. However once in burner I need to move back from the bump a little to ensure both engines disengage from burner. This has more to do with Hog calibration than the program I reckon.

 

What I found with the finger lift option, if I activate it go into burner and then come back out and make sure both engines have came out of burner.

 

 

Unless I move the throttle back a little from the burner detent to go into mil thrust only, I get one of the engines going back into burner without the finger lifts operated when I push through the burner detent again, the other engine stays in mil thrust.

 

Easy to fix just make sure to move the throttle back a little from the burner detent then forward again and it all works like a charm. So for the moment I'm using it to increase throttle movement

 

Currently using my SPDB button for the finger lift, SPDF for the brakes and CHF as an adjust on the speed brake if I need to trim it up or down a little. Although TBH so far I've never really felt the need to tune the brake.

 

Apologies wandered a little off topic there :doh:

Thanks for the advice I'll give that a try

Would be totally awesome if ED could implement a "AB detent position" slider/setting so we don't get a curve, but 2 linear parts with the detent just where it needs to be depending on the throttle used so it won't feel strange.

Would be totally awesome if ED could implement a "AB detent position" slider/setting so we don't get a curve, but 2 linear parts with the detent just where it needs to be depending on the throttle used so it won't feel strange.

Great idea... Hmmmm.... Actually, I've actually seen that function somewhere else. :music_whistling: I wonder where?

Also, you can't off-limit the upper end. That just works on the lower end with one of the saturation sliders = I can set my throttle to range from like 20% to 100%, but not from 0% to 80%. Don't know which one it was right now. The other one basically is just another deathzone slider for the upper end while deathzone itself is for the lower end.

If you don't have a throttle with afterburner detents, eg the TM TWCS, three options:

1. Set afterburner gates to always off and the afterburner lights up at full throttle. Only way to know for sure from inside the cockpit is to watch your fuel burn.

2. Map "afterburner gates on/off" to a button. One press gives you afterburner at full throttle, another gives you mil at full throttle. Doesn't matter what box you checked in the settings menu. Still gotta watch your fuel burn because there's no way to tell which way the button is toggled.

3. Set afterburner gates to always on, and map "finger lift" to a button. Press and hold the finger lift button, shove the throttle forward and you are in afterburner. Pull throttle back about halfway and AB shuts off. Push throttle to stops WITHOUT holding the finger lift button, and you have full mil power. So you only get afterburner if you are holding the finger lift button while advancing the throttle.

The last seems to work for me.

Hmmm currently running #2 , but #3 sounds better-thanks for that !

Also nozzle position is a good cue as well in combination of fuel flow.

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