F-14 Cockpit and instrument dimensions

Need to resize holes for switches (easy to do). Got some of them mounted. They are too small. Now the conundrum. I can get bigger switches, but they are about $5 each. Or I can stick with the miniatures, which are about $0.50 each. I am thinking maybe 3D print some switch levers that will go over the existing ones like covers to make them bigger. The angle of throw is a little bit small on these mini switches, though, so it's not as easy to see which position the switch is in.

Wondering whether there is a reasonable source for large lever switches - even just $1 each and I'd go all in on those, but at $5 each, I'm thinking nope nope nope.

I am thinking maybe 3D print some switch levers that will go over the existing ones like covers to make them bigger. The angle of throw is a little bit small on these mini switches, though, so it's not as easy to see which position the switch is in.

 

Wondering whether there is a reasonable source for large lever switches - even just $1 each and I'd go all in on those, but at $5 each, I'm thinking nope nope nope.

 

Not sure where you can find them that cheap. All Electronics (allelectronics.com) have standard 15/32" bushing switches starting at 1.85 for 10 or more on/off switches. Be careful on their site and read all the descriptions, it is easy to get miniature/smaller switches by mistake. They have what they call a dual SPST toggle switch for 1.50 ea. in their catalog. Their write up is a bit confusing on it, but it should do the job. It doesn't give the length of the actuator, so maybe their website might, or call them and ask before buying.

If you go with the printed batons, maybe add a small hash mark next to the middle of each switch hole on the panel as a reference mark, this might help make it easier to tell the position, might, you would have to make a test on a piece of scrap to see.

<Salute>

Punk

Did test cuts on 1/8"

I really want to use 1/8" because of the rigidity. Feels a lot better. Downside is that the push buttons I bought don't have long enough threads. So I'm out about $10 on those, but I will find another use for them.

I think switches and buttons are going to be the really expensive part of this whole deal. Here is the 1/8" panel with the miniature switches in it. Looks okay, but would prefer the longer throw full length switches. Resizing the holes was easy and can be done for the different size switches.

Overall, this looks okay, but I'm undecided on investing in the bigger switches.

Tried a few different mounting hardware stackups. Seems nothing on the bottom face and a nut on the top is best. The washers don't really do much good (actually allow the switch to rotate more easily) and I lose some important thread length for the nut.

I will buy some full size switches and do another test piece on clear acrylic (since they have a bunch of it available) and see which one is better, and judge if the additional cost is worth it.

I had another idea to use clear acrylic (paint black and etch through it) and backlight all the panels, but I'm not sure that's going to be easy to do with all the wiring that will be present. That method would save me on buying white acrylic, and there are enough LEDs available to do it, but the extra wiring work makes me not want to go that route.

Also, what voltage/amperage should I be going for? Better that they all share common voltage/amperage? Most selections are 125V/3A or 125V/15A. Should be able to wire in some resistors as needed, but I'm guessing I'll need some kind of transformer to deal with the voltage change? Not sure what voltage will be delivered through the controller boards.

Hello, Dino!

Do you have any blueprint of cockpit?

I searched the Flight Manual, but the illustration is not clear.

Please teach me where did you get blueprint.

thanks

Also, what voltage/amperage should I be going for? Better that they all share common voltage/amperage? Most selections are 125V/3A or 125V/15A. Should be able to wire in some resistors as needed, but I'm guessing I'll need some kind of transformer to deal with the voltage change? Not sure what voltage will be delivered through the controller boards.

You should not need to worry about the switches at all. The only time you should need to worry is when lights are involved. Most of the switches will easily handle most I/O boards you might use.

Not sure of the size of your push-buttons, but you might be able to countersink them from the backside of the panel if you are careful.

<Salute>

Punk

Thanks. Going to start working on the warning light panel next. Got a few ideas on making it work with individual LEDs.

Thanks. Going to start working on the warning light panel next. Got a few ideas on making it work with individual LEDs.

Cool, I sent you a new batch of stuff, I believe one of them shows the colors for which lights are yellow/orange and which should be amber. If not, let me know and I will resend or it might be best to double check what the NATOPS says if you want accurate stuff, the pic I sent is from FSX I think so not sure how accurate it is as I have not gotten around to verifying it yet.

There is a guy who makes them for F-18s on his 3d printer, smaller scale, but I can put some pics together with some shots of how his is put together and an original Hornet annunciator if you want ideas, just let me know. He was going to see about making one up for the Cat when I get around to paying him for it. I am excited to see what you come up with as well.

Is the warning light panel also 5.75 in wide? I plan on etching it in clear acrylic and 3D printing a lattice to attach behind it to keep each LED light from bleeding into adjacent indicators. Shouldn't be too tough, but just have to figure out the right way to etch it. Could go black surface and etch out letters and box outline in clear, or do box etched clear with letters left as black.

I'm mentally prepping here, I may try to do a version of this when the F-14 is out.

I found something that may be of help https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/custom-homemade-flight-simulator-dcs-control-switchboard.120422/

Is the warning light panel also 5.75 in wide? I plan on etching it in clear acrylic and 3D printing a lattice to attach behind it to keep each LED light from bleeding into adjacent indicators. Shouldn't be too tough, but just have to figure out the right way to etch it. Could go black surface and etch out letters and box outline in clear, or do box etched clear with letters left as black.

Yes, it is the standard width. What the guy who made the F-18 version did was print them on plastic stock and used thin colored plastic panels for each one to get the right color. If you spend some time mulling it over I am sure you can come up with a few ways to try out. I will look for those pics tomorrow and try to get them out to you soon.

I'm mentally prepping here, I may try to do a version of this when the F-14 is out.

 

I found something that may be of help https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/custom-homemade-flight-simulator-dcs-control-switchboard.120422/

Bodnar boards should work great, I have one, but haven't used it yet. The one I have on my test panel is from Desktop Aviator I think. I have one of the ones you have to program too, but also haven't tested it out, name of the boards escape me right now. I will probably try one of those for the lights. I have a write up of how one was used for Falcon BMS that should convert pretty close for DCS I hope and possibly FSX, though I think they do things very differently, but not sure yet.

<Salute>

Punk

Thoughts on these for the warning light panel?

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1426

They also sell a 5x8 board of them, but that won't cover all the lights, even if I did modify the layout. I think the sticks give the most flexibility, and then I might get individual lights for the bottom rows.

EDIT:

Just saw the actual size - would take 26 of them, or about $150 worth of them to do it right. Going to seek cheaper alternatives.

EDIT again:

https://www.adafruit.com/product/3094?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1rHWgMbL1QIV0KZpCh1s-gxdEAQYASABEgIujfD_BwE

Can get individual neopixels. I think put two for each light and I'm good to go. Should provide decent enough illumination through the clear acrylic. Saves me having to cut little rectangles of difference color acrylic. Of course, I will have to figure out what controller board(s), coding, and wiring setups - sounds like a whole new project already.

I have not looked into this one, I was told about PoKeys devices in conjunction with Arduino boards I think, the name I couldn't remember above. I will look at this stuff when I am feeling better, going through a bit of a rough patch at the moment. If I can locate the digital source of the material I was talking about I will forward to you so you can look it over and get an idea how someone else approached the issue. That might help confirm you are on the right track or offer other ideas for you to mull over.

<Salute>

Punk

Hi folks, I know many of you have lives that take you places I have not been or can not find. Does anyone know where some of the below pictured switch guards can be found or made? The internet is surprisingly quiet when it comes to them. Thanks.

<Salute>

Punk

Hi folks, I know many of you have lives that take you places I have not been or can not find. Does anyone know where some of the below pictured switch guards can be found or made? The internet is surprisingly quiet when it comes to them. Thanks.

 

 

[ATTACH]168784[/ATTACH]

 

 

<Salute>

Punk

You might find something you can use here:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/switches/toggle-switches-accessories/toggle-switch-guards/

or here

http://cpc.farnell.com/c/electronic-electrical-components/switches-relays-solenoids/switches-accessories/switch-components/prl/results/4

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/accessories/192

http://www.atakel.com/urun/apem-switch-guard/EN/

You might find something you can use here:

 

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/switches/toggle-switches-accessories/toggle-switch-guards/

 

or here

 

http://cpc.farnell.com/c/electronic-electrical-components/switches-relays-solenoids/switches-accessories/switch-components/prl/results/4

 

https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/accessories/192

 

http://www.atakel.com/urun/apem-switch-guard/EN/

Thanks, the problem is many of those supplier sites won't sell to civilians, that is, a non-business. I am hoping someone knows a shop or something where you can actually buy one, not just get requests for pricing quotes.

Hi folks, I know many of you have lives that take you places I have not been or can not find. Does anyone know where some of the below pictured switch guards can be found or made? The internet is surprisingly quiet when it comes to them. Thanks.

 

 

[ATTACH]168784[/ATTACH]

 

 

<Salute>

Punk

I got one I can send you. Standard Red switch cover. Used out of a CH-46.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/eatonGuard.php?clickkey=3008779

I got one I can send you. Standard Red switch cover. Used out of a CH-46.

 

www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/eatonGuard.php?clickkey=3008779

Thank you very much for your offer, but I have some of the standard types, I am looking for the ones with holes so that the switches are maintained in certain positions. Again, thanks so much for the kind offer. I am trying to find replicas or guards similar/close to the type to use on the Weapons panel in the F-14 like the arming switch cover and such.

<Salute>

Punk

Some test cuts on painted acrylic today. Will post a pic later tonight. Looks okay, but I'm also going to test clear with paint for a backlit setup.

Painting was a quick and dirty job, so its already coming off, but should work well with a decent prep and paint on the finalized panels. Backlighting looks decent on the ivory panel. Will stick with that for now.

Challenge will be redesigning panels to accommodate large switch bodies to allow backlighting. You can see in 2nd pic where the letters are partially blocked by the switch bodies.

Nice but lettering should be red when lit. I work on these systems in the CH-47 and CH-46 the lettering is white and we use red lights to make it red when lit.

I think if I use red LEDs, it will show up pink when backlit, but I can always give it a shot. I'll probably go with the white for now and redo them later if the red looks better.

I think if I use red LEDs, it will show up pink when backlit, but I can always give it a shot. I'll probably go with the white for now and redo them later if the red looks better.

I think white is best unless you plan to use NVGs or something. Red light is better when you need to worry about your night vision, but you are watching a monitor so really, what is the point other than verisimilitude? I would rather be able to easily find what I am looking for.

G'day Gents,

Long time lurker, first time post on the forums.

Punk and Dino Might, awesome projects you have going on. Your panels are looking great. I'm thinking of potentially starting a F-14B Tub over Christmas.

I know that it was previously mentioned by Cobra that the NATOPS fold outs were average at best. Have you had a look at the Delta manual?

The panel diagrams are much clearer. Working with the assumption that the F-14D's MFD's are the same size as the F/A-18C's DDI's, the Delta's NATOPS Cockpit diagram scaled to match should give you more accurate measurements that the A/B foldout. I know that the switchology is a bit different but I'm pretty sure it will still work.

Link to the F-14D NATOPS Manual - Page 1021 (Pilot) 1022 (Rio)

https://info.publicintelligence.net/F14AAD-1.pdf

Cheers,

Tim "Mumbles"

G'day Gents,

 

Long time lurker, first time post on the forums.

 

Punk and Dino Might, awesome projects you have going on. Your panels are looking great. I'm thinking of potentially starting a F-14B Tub over Christmas.

 

I know that it was previously mentioned by Cobra that the NATOPS fold outs were average at best. Have you had a look at the Delta manual?

The panel diagrams are much clearer. Working with the assumption that the F-14D's MFD's are the same size as the F/A-18C's DDI's, the Delta's NATOPS Cockpit diagram scaled to match should give you more accurate measurements that the A/B foldout. I know that the switchology is a bit different but I'm pretty sure it will still work.

 

Link to the F-14D NATOPS Manual - Page 1021 (Pilot) 1022 (Rio)

https://info.publicintelligence.net/F14AAD-1.pdf

 

Cheers,

Tim "Mumbles"

Hi Mumbles,

You may be right, but I am going to wait and see if Heatblur releases the dimensions they made using laser scanning technology later as they have said they will since I am not in that much of a hurry to actually start the build this year. I am still collecting items that go inside so it will be a long term project in my case. Thanks though, if you start your own I hope you will post about it. Tomcat pits are definitely few and far between.

Salute,

Punk

Thanks, Mumbles. That's a good idea. I'll probably wait as well on word from Heatblur, but i will use the delta info to do a spot check of the panel files i have made so far. Having problems with spacing for switches and backlighting right now. Im considering going to all micro sized switches and 3D printing toggle extensions for them. Adjusting sizing with the D specs may alleviate the issue, though. I've got a couple painted acrylic pieces waiting to cut once I get a few panel designs finalized.