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So being not at all familiar with electronics and on the verge of getting into some serious electronic work. Does anyone know or is willing to show how to make a hall effect sensor or potentiometer work or how to connect it. Essentially I was going to use the hall's for a throttle quadrant and potentiometer for a custom rudder and brake set up ( aircraft specific). Hopefully you guys have the time to help me out on this one.

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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Look at this picture:

 

http://www.leobodnar.com/products/BU0836/BU0836pot.png

 

In USB controller, a potentiometer or HALL sensor require 3 wires plugged into specif inputs in controller board, the axis input.

 

If want invert the potentiometer reading direction, exchange the +5v and Gnd wires on potentiometer, or pins - don't matter.

 

HALL sensor is wired in the same way, but the pinnout order in HALL is different - look at HALL datasheet to know.

 

And with HALL you can't invert the wires to get inverted reading, is need invert the magnet orientation.

 

Related:

 

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3225807/all/DIY_hall_sensor.html

 

This "electronic" part of DIY control is simple and easy to do (minus find a HALL sensor middle position relative to magnets, these thing are very tiny).

 

Is need know how make good solder in wires and differentiate + and - (mixing then cause smoke). :)


Edited by Sokol1_br
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OK, I've heard HALL sensors are better for axis like throttles because they're small and accurate, so how exactly do I make that work?

 

Thanks for the reply by the way.

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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Well I understand that but how in the application of a throttle unit would it be mounted?

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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Fit the magnet (1 or 2) to rotate together with throttle axis, place the HALL between.

 

Here's the guy convert a ordinary pot' in HALL:

 

http://mwomercs.com/forums/topic/179816-tm-t-flight-hotas-x-throttle-unit-modding-project/

 

The pot' axis is used to turn the HALL (not the best solution).

 

Other example, using a pot" as base for HALL and magnets:

 

http://s5.photobucket.com/user/Brandano/media/DIY%20Rudder%20Pedals/IMAGE_00030.jpg.html

 

Others, a Cougar throttle converted to HALL sensor with one magnet:

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=69785

 

With two magnet:

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=54937


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Ok, so I think I have the just of how to do it. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Next problem....how to put tension or resistance on the pivot point hmmm ideas anyone?


Edited by RAZBAM_ELMO

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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Afternoon,

 

If you google "diy flight sim throttle" or similar there a quite a few projects out there with ideas you can steal. Mostly civil airliner models, but the basic concepts are the same.

 

Tension... well, there seem to be two options. The first one is to have all the levers on the same pivot, and to basically tighten down the washers with a screwed handle - rather like how the real thing works. A second option, which leaves the lever pivot free for interfacing with the pot or hall sensor, is to put the resistance where the lever moves rather than at the pivot point - with scraps of carpet underlay or door draft-excluders, anything that gives a bit of friction to the movement of the lever(s).

My *new* AV-8B sim-pit build thread:

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=3901589

 

The old Spitfire sim-pit build thread circa '16/17:

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=143452

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See in this kit for throttle mechanics: the throttle lever is fix to a bolt that are the axis and turn this bolt inside a bearing, so the bolt tip can turn a magnet for HALL or a pot' axis through a flexible connection (e.g. a rubber rose).

 

The carpet disk make friction for throttle lever moment, and be turn the small bolt in external side you move a metal plate against the carpet disk an adjust the friction.

 

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4147188/Re:_Iron_mechanic_motor_contro#Post4147188

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4146344#Post4146344

 

If you go for the other way, the levers turn around the axis, use R/C ball links connections to turn the pot' or magnet for HALL remotely.

 

Example: http://cougar.flyfoxy.com/images/mods/hall2.jpg

 

In this case you can turn a nut in the end of axis bolt to adjust the friction - similar in WWII planes throttle.

 

http://www.simpits.org/geneb/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/throttle_done2.jpg


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Oh what I wouldn't give for a very shiny, expensive CNC machine............I think I have a solution now for the quadrant. Big question though is HALL or POT. Not sure the advantages and disadvantages of the two, uncharted territory for my brain.

Know and use all the capabilities in your airplane. If you don't, sooner or later, some guy who does use them all will kick your ass.

 

— Dave 'Preacher' Pace, USN.

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Pot's - have a resistive trail that wear with use.

Commercial pot' need be turn ~270 degrees to varies voltage 0 to 5 volts - expected by USB controller.

 

Pot's used in joystick have a special (by order) serigraphy in trail that need turn only ~60 degrees to varies voltage 0 to 5 volts.

 

If you buy quality pot' (Bourns, Spectrol, Alphs...) and can deal with the need to convert the throttle lever of 50~70 degrees movement in 270 degrees to turn the pot full, you will be happy with pot's.

 

Assure to fit then in the way that make ease replace if eventually need.

 

HALL sensor (& similar*) dont have contact between parts, the sensor read variations in a magnetic field, what theoretically give then a "infinite" lifespan.

 

HALL sensor assembled like a pot tend be expensive, but Debolesis find this one at reasonable price:

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=6127V1A60L.5&vendor=987

 

DIY HALL+magnet assembly (like this in SImHQ) is cheap but PITA to place correctly relative the magnet and find the center position due his tiny size.

 

* Instead HALL sensor you use these sensor used in automotive industry for position detection, they read the magnetic field direction instead intensity they are more easy to place relative to magnet, but require additional components (amplifier, resistor, condenser) and assembly a PCB. KMZ41:

 

extadc_04_magres1_t.png

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