Just bought the spitfire. I'm a bit excited

Hi all,

I've just bought the Spitfire module. I've only ever flown the A10C before, so I am expecting a bit of a shock when it comes to figuring it out.

• Before I even try, do you have any top tips, do's and don'ts?
   
  
• Is anybody using any useful crib sheets and kneeboards that will help ease the ride?
  

I want to do everything straight away but I need to calm down.

Thanks in advance.

Start from Chuck's guide... Then build up flying hours... Then take off and last one landing... Leave the fight only for fun during the training period.

Inviato dal mio BLA-L09 utilizzando Tapatalk

As hunter said chucks guide will be your best friend, i also suggest studying videos to get a view of the landing speeds and attitude of the spitfire with and without flaps, another thing to do is get used to the torque at different RPM settings as it increases exponentially with rpm.

I suggest doing stall practice, slow speed handling and also tight turns to see how the buffet is.

Definitely read the manual with regards to the engine, if you push it too hard IT WILL FAIL and i cannot stress that enough, it suffers badly with overheating and the radiators will blow when there isn't enough air running through them meaning in tight turns and also vertical manauvers you have to manage the engine correctly to avoid any issues. Normally the heating will occur near the stall at high power settings.

If you want i'm happy to help you train and learn, the last thing i'll suggest is adding a curve to the control surfaces especially the rudder as the aforementioned torque will end up inverting the aircraft on take offs and landings if you're not on it like a hawk.

As hunter said chucks guide will be your best friend, i also suggest studying videos to get a view of the landing speeds and attitude of the spitfire with and without flaps, another thing to do is get used to the torque at different RPM settings as it increases exponentially with rpm.

 

I suggest doing stall practice, slow speed handling and also tight turns to see how the buffet is.

 

Definitely read the manual with regards to the engine, if you push it too hard IT WILL FAIL and i cannot stress that enough, it suffers badly with overheating and the radiators will blow when there isn't enough air running through them meaning in tight turns and also vertical manauvers you have to manage the engine correctly to avoid any issues. Normally the heating will occur near the stall at high power settings.

 

If you want i'm happy to help you train and learn, the last thing i'll suggest is adding a curve to the control surfaces especially the rudder as the aforementioned torque will end up inverting the aircraft on take offs and landings if you're not on it like a hawk.

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It will be very different from the A-10C, as it's a high performance prop plane, and a tail dragger. It couldn't be further from an arcade-ish gaming experience, it will behave like the real one. Your first takeoffs and landings will be horrible, but don't get discouraged. Try to follow the checklists word by word. Here's a little tutorial I made, I hope it will help:

Bind your oil dilution to something very handy.

I put it on my MSD (Down). The dilution cover is on MSU (Up).

These days it's hard to keep it warm enough to keep the oil pressure down if you are just cruising. Temperature control is super important as has been said.

Mind you, I like snow and altitude. ;)

My key to landing success is to drop flaps and gear and trim up at about 120 MPH early.

That gets things close. She stalls around 70 MPH depending on the load. 100 MPH over the fence.

I taxi at 1100 rpm prop full rpm. Even that requires a touch of brakes once in a while.

Patience.

Pitot heat is often not considered at first. It is a must to turn that on generally.

I turn the dash lights on right off the pin.

Bind the rad flap to something.

You may need to open it easily if it gets too warm.

Carb filter will slow you down. Use that on the ground.

Most of those things do not get done when starting a takeoff from runway start.

Takeoff assistance is something I turn off right away.

Hope some of that helps.

I Love this aircraft more than any other.

It will be very different from the A-10C, as it's a high performance prop plane, and a tail dragger. It couldn't be further from an arcade-ish gaming experience, it will behave like the real one. Your first takeoffs and landings will be horrible, but don't get discouraged. Try to follow the checklists word by word. Here's a little tutorial I made, I hope it will help:

 

 

Nice video, thanks.

Bind your oil dilution to something very handy.

I put it on my MSD (Down). The dilution cover is on MSU (Up).

These days it's hard to keep it warm enough to keep the oil pressure down if you are just cruising. Temperature control is super important as has been said.

Mind you, I like snow and altitude. ;)

My key to landing success is to drop flaps and gear and trim up at about 120 MPH early.

That gets things close. She stalls around 70 MPH depending on the load. 100 MPH over the fence.

I taxi at 1100 rpm prop full rpm. Even that requires a touch of brakes once in a while.

Patience.

Pitot heat is often not considered at first. It is a must to turn that on generally.

I turn the dash lights on right off the pin.

Bind the rad flap to something.

You may need to open it easily if it gets too warm.

Carb filter will slow you down. Use that on the ground.

Most of those things do not get done when starting a takeoff from runway start.

Takeoff assistance is something I turn off right away.

Hope some of that helps.

I Love this aircraft more than any other.

Thanks for the tips.

Best tip I can give You for landing (apart if You wanna see my YouTube channel where I land even withbthe engine in fire :) ) is to memorize the orizon position when You are on the ground.... This is the position You must attain to make a 3 point touch.

Inviato dal mio BLA-L09 utilizzando Tapatalk

Wow, finally got all my keybinds sorted out on my HOTAS, pedals, etc. thinking I'm all good to go. Following the startup instructions to a tee, and what happens?????

I CAN'T EVEN TAXI.

I'm going around in circles, zig zags. My brakes and rudder are doing overtime.

I must be missing something because this is crazy. The bird keeps pulling to the left even at extremely low speed. At one point I was spinning on the spot!

Any ideas are welcome. And yes I was pulling back on the stick to lock the wheels.

Ahhhh, just gone back to Essay Part 1. Now it makes sense!

The brakes are linked to the rudder.

When you simply apply the brakes, it brakes both wheels. When you brake AND use your rudder, it will greatly help turn in the direction the pedals would cause. Differential braking.

Kind of like a tractor or a tank. Brake one side and it turns that way.

Pulling back on the stick does not lock the wheels in a Spitfire.

It is free castering only.

It is the most difficult fixed wing aircraft I have ever tried in a sim.

The learning curve is long.

Taxi at 1100 rpm and less.

Watch the nose against the clouds or something.

Apply rudder early. Brake if required with the rudder turned.

Torque will always make it easier to turn left than right.

I believe I bought the Spit a couple years ago.

I have just this year learned how to take off and land it every time.

Pick start from runway instead of ramp to get you going with a bit of fun without taxing.

Spend a day just taxiing. That was my cure finally.

"A lady in the air and a bich on the ground" <said many for good reason.

The 109 is a breeze once you've mastered the Spitfire.

Pulling back on the stick does not lock the wheels in a Spitfire.

It is free castering only.

Oh, I was following Chuck's guide. I wondered why it wasn't mentioned in the tutorial.

Spitfire Manual Path

Here is where the Spitfire Manual is stored. Check the pic. It's a bit more in depth in some areas.

Brakes are mentioned on Page 66 and 79.

Mind you, I read Chuck's guide many times and it is a very handy document.

Here is where the Spitfire Manual is stored. Check the pic. It's a bit more in depth in some areas.

Brakes are mentioned on Page 66 and 79.

Mind you, I read Chuck's guide many times and it is a very handy document.

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