Greasing up the Warthog

The problem that happened to me was the ribbon cable was pulled all the back through the base. Make sure you push it up before pulling up the ball socket. Make sure the holes on the sensor allow for the most slack on the ribbon cable. Then as you put it together again pull it down. Its annoying they used glue on ribbon cable, if you could unplug that it would be 10x easier.

Talked to TM, they will send a replacement base for 150 EUR to Australia including shipping.

The problem that happened to me was the ribbon cable was pulled all the back through the base. Make sure you push it up before pulling up the ball socket. Make sure the holes on the sensor allow for the most slack on the ribbon cable. Then as you put it together again pull it down. Its annoying they used glue on ribbon cable, if you could unplug that it would be 10x easier.

 

Talked to TM, they will send a replacement base for 150 EUR to Australia including shipping.

Glue on the ribbon cable? There must've been a change in manufacturing sometime during the run. Mine (06948), and at least a few others have no glue anywhere.

If you like I could have a crack at fixing your base if you covered postage to/from Brisbane.

Glue on the ribbon cable? There must've been a change in manufacturing sometime during the run. Mine (06948), and at least a few others have no glue anywhere.

 

If you like I could have a crack at fixing your base if you covered postage to/from Brisbane.

Mine was the first batch 0400. There is also 4 wires that are glued on as well. Really made it hard.

I've already purchased the new base but ill have a look at the shipping costs if you want a crack, seems a waste not to fix it :)

Found the time to grease mine yesterday, used the LiquiMoly Silicon DX grease. Also found one of the 4 metal poles a bit loose, the screw obscured by the little circuit board had to be tightened. Now the stick feels better than it ever did, thanks guys! :)

I'm planning to grease up my warthog too and was wondering if removing the bushers is really required.

What about greasing the inside ball (with the bushers still in place) from the top opening?

Also any idea on anything similar to EM-30L grease available in the uk?

L

Iwould like to know what kind of greses work as i live in Brasil and the probability of finding exactle same brand and type is maybe a bit remote.

I just received metallic support and am able to restart my pit building, ETA Early September.

Thank you.

Also any idea on anything similar to EM-30L grease available in the uk?

 

L

Hi luckyluca.

I just bought a pot of EM-30L grease from eBay, posted from the USA. Took about 4 or 5 days to get here to the UK. Bought this item here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270666662651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Was very fast, simple and painless to do.

Regards,

Milli

I'm planning to grease up my warthog too and was wondering if removing the bushers is really required.

What about greasing the inside ball (with the bushers still in place) from the top opening?

Also any idea on anything similar to EM-30L grease available in the uk?

 

L

Try an RC model shop they used to do it for lubing up plastic cogs and gears.

Thanks tietze for your suggestion and guide and also tjhowse for your procedure write up. I ordered the Molykote EM-30L to do the re-grease operation myself.

I also wanted to point people here to a thread on Warthogworld: Delamination of Anti-friction Buffer Ring. Apart from this being a related design flaw (at least in first batch Warthogs, serial 193 here), the proposed PTFE replacement ring appears to lower friction and reduce center play by itself as well.

Anyway, I also ordered PTFE sheet material to do this in one go.

Just wanted to chime in about the PTFE bufferring replacement - it didn't reduce static friction for me. As the rubber ring for me was already properly lubricated, the other sources of frictions came from the contact inside the gimbal ball, and the contacts between the four posts and the top Teflon ring.

I am pretty sure that the rubber ring is there to cushion the transition flats not for anti-friction, so if you have either the OEM rubber ring removed or the PTFE ring installed, your center detent will be much stronger.

So what did i do? I super glued the rubber ring. It hasn't been mangled out of place yet!

Thanks, that is an interesting report and view on the buffer ring's function. It makes sense to me. The problem with delamination should still be solved, so I'll try both solutions to see which one I like better in terms of feel.

Anyone having an issue with the ribbon cable binding up, you can unscrew and pull on the female connector pin that connects the stick and the ball to facilitate tautening the ribbon cable. You can insert the ball and set the pins in, and reinsert the outer hull, then push the ribbon cable through to keep it from binding up on anything internal. Didnt see anyone mention that in this thread, so I thought I would.

EDIT: sorted it was me being silly, no hardware issue at all :)

After a few months of DCS hibernation I bought the fabolous Huey and started playing again. I bought some molykote, tried this excellent trick, and the Huey suddenly got a lot easier to hover in! Thanks!

Not being familiar with this Molykote EM 30l or other plastic & metal safe synthetic greases, does anyone know of the name of a good equivalent which can be purchased in the UK (and potentially, where to get it)?

Not being familiar with this Molykote EM 30l or other plastic & metal safe synthetic greases, does anyone know of the name of a good equivalent which can be purchased in the UK (and potentially, where to get it)?

see my post here rusty

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1759640&postcount=57

Regards,

Milli

Greased mine with nyogel 767A. Great stuff.

http://www.newgateonline.com/nyogel-767a-100gram-tube.html

The Nyogel is not less expensive, but also available from Micro Tools Europe (21€ for 2oz ~ 56g):

http://www.micro-tools.de/en/byManufacturer/NYE/Lubricant-Grease-Nyogel-2oz-Tube.html

[edit: sorry not the same quantity as the product ///Rage posted: 26£ for 3.53oz ~ 100g]

I've greased up my warthog. All is super smooth and the centring is very precise. But I have noticed that I can twist my joystick from left to right about 3 to 5 degrees in total. It is the large outer cup part of the cup and ball joint that is moving. Is there anyway to stop this? Its not affecting my flying but its niggling at my mind lol. I cannot remember if it was like this before i greased her up.

Regards,

Milli

But I have noticed that I can twist my joystick from left to right about 3 to 5 degrees in total.

From all the reading I did prior to purchasing my Warthog , and after, I think this is a fairly common thing across the board. Some seem to have a little more play in it than others.

Mine has a small amount of twist, probably no more than 2 degrees. And like you, I do not notice it while flying at all.

I'll leave the matter be then. Stick feels so much better after greasing it up. Highly recommended.

Regards,

Milli

I took mine apart and greased it yesterday after it getting very slightly sticky. I was surprised to have virtually no grease at all in it. Now it's perfect and makes huey flying alot easier, well worth doing.

Pin-out of the handle

Hi, just saw this pin-out linked in another thread here on EDF:

Link: Thread on simHQ "Warthog/Cougar Pin out information".

After three months of running my Warthog without incident I finally encountered lubrication issues from all the use this thing has received. It started to stick on me all the time even to the point where I pulled the stick all the way back and it just stayed there.:shocking:

So after going through all the threads about disassembly and grease types I finally went out and bought some plastic friendly grease and after an hour of farting around I finally got it back together and... it was still awful. Even with loads of grease. I tried another grease and same thing. The stickshin was getting even more pronounced. :angry:

I resigned myself to ordering some of that Molycote stuff and wait a week for it but who can go a week without flying. :sad_2: So I tried one more time and this time I used something I had left over from my RC tank days...CERAMIC Grease. This is "apparently" specially formulated for plastic to cut sticking by 50% so I gave it a try. I can't say WOW loud enough:clap_2:. It is so smooth I almost had an accident in my pants. Would you like to know what it is???

Tamiaya Ceramic Grease. Yes, the same people who make plastic model kits. All hobby stores carry Tamiya products so it will be really easy to find.

I just wanted to pass this alone in hopes that others won't have to go through the same crap as I did to get my stick back to normal. BTW, you don't need to use gobs of it either. Just a nice film over the ball joints, o-ring and those four posts.

After three months of running my Warthog without incident I finally encountered lubrication issues from all the use this thing has received. It started to stick on me all the time even to the point where I pulled the stick all the way back and it just stayed there.:shocking:

 

So after going through all the threads about disassembly and grease types I finally went out and bought some plastic friendly grease and after an hour of farting around I finally got it back together and... it was still awful. Even with loads of grease. I tried another grease and same thing. The stickshin was getting even more pronounced. :angry:

 

I resigned myself to ordering some of that Molycote stuff and wait a week for it but who can go a week without flying. :sad_2: So I tried one more time and this time I used something I had left over from my RC tank days...CERAMIC Grease. This is "apparently" specially formulated for plastic to cut sticking by 50% so I gave it a try. I can't say WOW loud enough:clap_2:. It is so smooth I almost had an accident in my pants. Would you like to know what it is???

 

Tamiaya Ceramic Grease. Yes, the same people who make plastic model kits. All hobby stores carry Tamiya products so it will be really easy to find.

 

I just wanted to pass this alone in hopes that others won't have to go through the same crap as I did to get my stick back to normal. BTW, you don't need to use gobs of it either. Just a nice film over the ball joints, o-ring and those four posts.

Too bad Tamiya shows it as discontinued on their site