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KA-50 collective: another picture-tale


PeterP

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encouraged of some guys I saw the necessity to give this child a name... >>>

The hell is that evil thing?!

 

The FrankenPeter.

 

Oooooh... that conjured up images I didn't need!

 

Seriously, another name is needed! Almost anything!megalol.gif

 

Oooooh... that conjured up images I didn't need!
Hahahaha rep inbound. Priceless.

 

-Please let this play in the background for more drama:

 

From now on my creation should be known as ....

... as

 

......( imagine thunderstruck,heavy rain and lightning.)

 

Are you ready!?

...

OK!

...

Now you can click the spoiler !!! >>>

 

 

Dr. Frank N Furter !!!

the-rocky-horror-picture-show_768px.jpg

"....Don't get strung out by the way that I look,

Don't judge a book by its cover "

 

 

Muahahahah!!!

 

 

PICT00036.jpg PICT00025.jpg PICT00019.jpg

P-51 configuration:

trim-box.jpg

 

 

 

 


Edited by PeterP

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I am not sure you are headed in a better direction.:P

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

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Really? :D

 

You are the godfather in a way or another:

 

I will accept the blame as long as I get to be first in line when the "Dr. F HOTAS" product line become available to the public.:D

 

Seriously, that thing really speaks of genius!:thumbup::thumbup:

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

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That must be one of the dirtiest but yet impressive hardware hacks I have ever seen! :thumbup::thumbup:

  • Like 1

| i9 12900K |  64GB DDR5-6000 | STRIX RTX 4090 OC | LG 38GN950 38" |

| Hanns-G HT225HPB | TIR 5 & Varjo Aero | Virpil Throttle & Stick | TM TPRs |

You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Post a request in this thread Black Shark Helisim .

 

I already PM'ed Rainman to encourage him to copy my solution.

Work has been INSANE over the last few months, even though I have access to to some of the best machinery for doing cockpits and things like that the hours and traveling are wearing me down, so I am changing jobs again and will be starting work in a local quarry in about a week, not so much travel and more money (my favourite combination).

I have given a lot more thought to a Blackshark collective and I believe that the solution that I have come up with will give the best of both worlds ie flight sim with the DODO206 and the Blackshark.

Vision Racer currently have me doing the development work to integrate my controls into their racing rigs and when I have the parts cut for the job I will also get parts done for the Blackshark collective.

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Peter P.... you building an Autobot or a mechwarrior ?

 

Awesome...and crazy.

HaF 922, Asus rampage extreme 3 gene, I7 950 with Noctua D14, MSI gtx 460 hawk, G skill 1600 8gb, 1.5 giga samsung HD.

Track IR 5, Hall sensed Cougar, Hall sensed TM RCS TM Warthog(2283), TM MFD, Saitek pro combat rudder, Cougar MFD.

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Thank you very much guys !

 

 

Neither a Autobot or a mechwarrior ... just things that suits me.

In this case its a Dr. Frank N Further .

 

@BaD CrC

 

I knew it's just a matter of time when you show up in this thread! :)

 

BTW: Material-costs for the collective-head+break alone was around 20€ - think about it.

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Fantastic work, Peter, always inspires me.

 

I am enclosing a picture of my prototype wheels for trimmer. The arrangement is not like the original at the Mustang, but is more intuitive. In addition, the three sides without a wheel, are valid as a base or anchor point, giving versatility.

 

Excuse the poor quality of the image.

 

Greetings!

 

imag0066fa.jpg

"If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly."

Paulo Coelho.

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Thanks , and very nice cube!

 

I would like to learn more about it - when you have the time to spare just open a thread and tell us!;)

 

I will start building my trim-boxt when P-51D will left beta state - so I'm really aware how the engine management will work in the end and if I have also to add detents for WEP.

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  • 6 months later...

In preparation for the upcoming DCS-Huey module:

 

 

I will "upgrade" my collective with a twist-throttle,

so it will be fully compatible with the Bell UH-1H Huey.

 

Twist_zpsf1268f49.jpg

 

I was wondering how I was going set my collective up for the Heuy. Thanks for taking the guess work out for me. smile.gif

 

Great concept.

 

Showtime

 

 

 

 

I'm glad to read that I could help you out :) - That's exactly why I'm posting things like this!

 

And on another note,

I'm now in close contact with a really nice guy that works with a 5-axis CNC.

>>> X-Mas gift from my wife

and I'm seriously considering to rebuild this force-trim mechanism together with him:

 

 

 

I have the grip already lying around (...and its waiting for new buttons with proper feed-back):

attachment.php?attachmentid=70983&stc=1&d=1348686790

 

 

...but this will be another picture-tale.


Edited by PeterP

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Ka-50 Collective - Twist Throttle Upgrade for DCS-Huey

 

Done!

Turn ratio is 2:1 = Half turn of the Handel is full turn of the potentiometer

 

The axis has a 1024er Resolution and is working very smooth and without spiking.

The poti is connected to the Cyborg-comannd-unit.

 

 

PICT0002.jpg

 

PICT0009.jpg

 

PICT00022.jpg


Edited by PeterP

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  • ED Team

Looks great Peter, much more professional than mine :)

 

Some good ideas as well, like the limiter you have put into the twist grip, very clever :)

smallCATPILOT.PNG.04bbece1b27ff1b2c193b174ec410fc0.PNG

Forum rules - DCS Crashing? Try this first - Cleanup and Repair - Discord BIGNEWY#8703 - Youtube - Patch Status

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  • 2 months later...

Nice work PeterP:thumbup:

Great idea with that twistgrip/potentiometer solution! I´m searching for a similar solution for that, because i´m building a collectivelever too at the moment. This gives me a very nice inspiration! Currently i´m playing arround with a scooter-twistgrip which has hallsensor integrated, but there are currently some sensor´s compatibility problems with my BU0836A.

 

May i ask you a question for understanding the fundamental functionality of the collective lever in reality?

 

My momentary solution is, that if the collective-brake-handle is beeing pusched up, a physical diskbrake is stopping any movement and a reed-switch is sending "assign altitude" to AP. There is a mechanism that locks the break-handle at about 80% moving it up. If pushing the break-handle further up, the mechanism unlocks and the diskbrake releases again (reed-switch disconnects and stopping "assign altitude").

 

I mistakenly thought this behaviour will be right in real life.

Now i see, your sollution is, that your collectivlever is always "locked" exept of pushing the collective-brake-handle, which is completely inverse to mine. I´m still not finished with my lever, so changes are still possible and i don´t want to make a fundamental mistake. So i hope you can help me to clarify this.

 

Can you tell me where you have bought the sprockets for the twistgrip handle? Ebääääh/ Conrad?

 

Regards

Terrorvogel

ASROCK X79 Extreme11 (WC), i7-4930K (WC), 32GB G.Skill TridentX, Vertex 3 120GB, GTX 980ti, 3x 39,5" Philips 4K, TrackIR 5, TM Warthog with PeterP´s FFB2 Mod, 2xSaitek Throttle, 2x Thrustmaster Cougar MFD Bezel, Simped Vario Pedals modded with toe brakes, Opencockpit Cards, 4x Soundcard, 2x Buttkicker Gamer 2, 4x GTX 950 with tons of touchscreens...

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  • 3 weeks later...

First :

Sorry for the late response , but I was very busy the last month(s) and today I start to see a light at the end of the tunnel I'm walking in... ;).

 

 

May i ask you a question for understanding the fundamental functionality of the collective lever in reality?

 

My momentary solution is, that if the collective-brake-handle is beeing pusched up, a physical diskbrake is stopping any movement and a reed-switch is sending "assign altitude" to AP. There is a mechanism that locks the break-handle at about 80% moving it up. If pushing the break-handle further up, the mechanism unlocks and the diskbrake releases again (reed-switch disconnects and stopping "assign altitude").

 

I mistakenly thought this behaviour will be right in real life.

Now i see, your sollution is, that your collectivlever is always "locked" exept of pushing the collective-brake-handle, which is completely inverse to mine. I´m still not finished with my lever, so changes are still possible and i don´t want to make a fundamental mistake. So i hope you can help me to clarify this.

Well, you can read about the proper function of the collective brake here:

 

Collective Brake - aka Collective Trim ... and why you should use it.

(I just opened a new thread about this matter , as I think it isn't discussed enough on this forum how important this function is)

 

In a nutshell:

 

Having the collective brake pressed =

constant signal of the Collective-brake button through DCS.

and

also disabling the brake that holds the lever in place, so it becomes free moving and has no great friction , so you can make fine adjustments to your rotor pitch as needed.

 

Can you tell me where you have bought the sprockets for the twistgrip handle? Ebääääh/ Conrad?

 

Regards

Terrorvogel

 

Well, I really forgot where I found the the gears for the twist-handle , but I'm used to collect gears whenever I see them on stuff that other people are used to throw in the trash-bin.

I have now a wide collection of different gears that I can use for my projects.

 

Here is one example(I made the picture just today):

 

The picture below shows the trash-bin of the company I'm working for.

It's a used/empty cartirde for for a laser printer - and as you can see you will find on it different high-precision gears in various sizes, that you can use for things like a twist-grip and many more after a small modification.

IMG_00561_zpsbb8f2f7b.jpg

 

 

 

Further:

 

Here you can see how I modified the collective with a counterweight to make it work for the Huey ( and I will temporally disable the function of the brake) , as the Huey (that will be simulated as DCS module) has no automated stabilisation system for the needed rotor pitch and you are forced to move it much more often as in the Ka-50 to keep the right altitude.

... and having to press constantly the brake will be very inconvenient when sitting in the Huey.

 

collective22_zps8702004e.jpg


Edited by PeterP

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Thank you for the detailed explanation PeterP!

 

I started to plan/build my collectivebrake the totally wrong way, but now with the right understanding how it should work, i´m trying to rebuild it.

 

Unfortunately i havn´t any old devices to cut out some sprockets but i have found some relatively new (expensive as usual) ones at Conrad Electronics. But its a good idea to unscrew old devices like DVD Player etc. for this parts. You´ll never know when you´ll need them sometime.

 

I will post pictures of my collective/homepit if its done.:)

 

Greetings

Terrorvogel

ASROCK X79 Extreme11 (WC), i7-4930K (WC), 32GB G.Skill TridentX, Vertex 3 120GB, GTX 980ti, 3x 39,5" Philips 4K, TrackIR 5, TM Warthog with PeterP´s FFB2 Mod, 2xSaitek Throttle, 2x Thrustmaster Cougar MFD Bezel, Simped Vario Pedals modded with toe brakes, Opencockpit Cards, 4x Soundcard, 2x Buttkicker Gamer 2, 4x GTX 950 with tons of touchscreens...

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  • 3 months later...

Hi PeterP!

Do you think you'd have some time to explain/show what's inside the box into which the handle of the collective sticks into? The one that reads the amount you raise/lower the collective and trasnforms that into signals for the computer?

I can't wrap my head around what I need to find at the junk-yard/ebay to get that part working.

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