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Thrustmaster Warthog Joystick-Button Issue


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  • ED Team
Most likely a pinched wire. It happened to me once with the FLCS grip connected to the warthog base (too long to explain, maybe the video clears it up
). I mention this because after I found the faulty wire (problem with the hasty wire isolation I did after soldering the wires from the grip to the cable) I could use the grip again but had some ghosting issues when pressing 2 or more buttons simultanious. After re-ataching the warthog grip I concluded that my Wathog base was still working fine, and that the wires short circuit damaged the logic circuit inside the FLCS grip itself (lucky me).

This all to say "hang in there and fingers crossed" as the FLCS, COUGAR and Warthog grip's insides are very identical right down to the electronics. The Cougar and Warthog use a more recent modern and minituarized version of the logic chips than the FLCS does, but they do exactly the same function.

 

On another note I was able to repair the S2 button on my Warthog's stick wich was defaulting to a allways on situation, but that was a problem with the button itself and not related to this sort of malfunction.

 

Thanks for reply. I reassembled the stick but I didn't found any damage or anything broken. Still I have this issue. I guess that base part could be broken.

 

When I compare it with my previous X52 which still more or less works I'm very dissapointed to get problems six months after warranty is gone.

AMD Ryzen 9 3900X, GeForce RTX 2080Ti, 32 GB DRAM, HOTAS TM Warthog, FSSB R3 Lighting, MFG Crosswind, Win 10 Pro

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  • 3 months later...

Sorry to resurrect this, but I have a similar issue. My trigger 1 doesn't seem to be working anymore (first stage of the trigger). I noticed my gunruns in the A10 started to suck all of the sudden, but thought I was just rusty. Then I was playing with the TARGET software so I could use trigger 1 in Elite Dangerous and I noticed it isn't responding at all. In Windows game controller settings, it doesn't light up. I'm assuming stage one of the trigger should be button 1?

 

Has anyone else had this particular issue? I'm guessing it is also pinched wires as discussed here, but I hope not. My warranty ran out while I was talking to TM about replacing my Master Light Switch (luckly they sent me a new switch for free since the warranty ended mid email-back-and-forth, but I'm way out of it now.

 

I'm not too bad with taking things apart, but I'm not confident with it, so I'm hoping to avoid messing about inside the joystick base and potentially screwing something else up.

Entropy Squadron



Possibly the least serious group of pilots on Earth

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  • 3 months later...
Repaired.:):):)

 

Like other before me, sorry to resurrect this thread, but I'm having the same problem. You seem to have resolved the problem by replacing the isolation or the wires where isolation was gone or degraded?

 

Were these wires in the stick itself or in the base? Like the author of the post above me I don't mind taking things apart, but I'd rather have an idea of what helped other people before I start tooling around and break my stick even more :)

 

In any case, anyone who has managed to fix this, your ideas are more than welcome. I have the same symptoms that are described by most: all of a sudden the buttons on my stick stopped working, now whenever I pull the trigger it will assume all buttons have been activated.

 

-Z

[sigpic][/sigpic]

I aaaaaam ... a banana!

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Gee...this is making me wonder if I want to buy this stick....Im coming back in to the hobby after a long absence so have missed out on a lot of the comments and problems related to the TM Warthog. Someone please convince me I should buy one or go another route!

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Gee...this is making me wonder if I want to buy this stick....Im coming back in to the hobby after a long absence so have missed out on a lot of the comments and problems related to the TM Warthog. Someone please convince me I should buy one or go another route!

 

 

Go ahead, you know you wanna.:thumbup:

I have # 139 from the plant and haven't had any issues. Like almost anything there are good copies and not so good copies.

You can convince yourself of anything if you read too many forums. People like it, people don't.Some people like Canons, some like Nikon.

Get a rudder while you're at it and start flying.


Edited by snafup
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Follow up:

 

After looking around a bit on the web I mustered up the courage to disassemble my joystick base. Once I had removed all components (mind you, I disassembled the base more than once), I found the fairly obvious culprit. (Apologies for the dreadful kitchen paper) attachment.php?attachmentid=115224&stc=1&d=1426856084

 

The red and black wires somehow had come undone, which resulted in my stick not functioning. In a way I was happy that the issue was something so obvious, because at least I could attempt to fix it.

 

So I went out and got myself a soldering iron, and with some patience managed to solder the black and red wires back to their intended locations. Were it not for this thread over at SimHQ though, I would never have known where red went, and where black went (fair enough, there's only two possibilities, but trial and error is overrated).

 

In any case, after reassembling the stick (then noticing I had done a boo-boo, disassembling and again reassembling the stick) it turns out the contact is now ok again. I haven't subjected the stick to a heavy duty work-out yet, so I'm not absolutely positive yet on how the soldering will hold up (cross my fingers, knock on wood, I'm not the best of solderers).

 

Go ahead, you know you wanna.:thumbup:

I have # 109 from the plant and haven't had any issues. Like almost anything there are good copies and not so good copies.

You can convince yourself of anything if you read too many forums. People like it, people don't.Some people like Canons, some like Nikon.

Get a rudder while you're at it and start flying.

 

To chime in here: I loved it since the second I got it. The issue I just encountered, as far as I'm concerned, was just a bump in the road. If my fix holds up, I'll be happily flying with one of the sticks on the market. Thing though is, when I bought it, there wasn't really much direct competition. There were no similar offerings from Logitech or Saitek and I didn't really want to get a CH product. Comparing the Warthog to my previous joystick, an X52, I must say the build quality, ruggedness (heh, irony) but most of all precision are a very welcome improvement.

 

-Z

IMG-20150320-WA0000.thumb.jpeg.8b0a905253c154b6095eff277a960607.jpeg

[sigpic][/sigpic]

I aaaaaam ... a banana!

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Follow up:

 

After looking around a bit on the web I mustered up the courage to disassemble my joystick base. Once I had removed all components (mind you, I disassembled the base more than once), I found the fairly obvious culprit. (Apologies for the dreadful kitchen paper) attachment.php?attachmentid=115224&stc=1&d=1426856084

 

The red and black wires somehow had come undone, which resulted in my stick not functioning. In a way I was happy that the issue was something so obvious, because at least I could attempt to fix it.

 

So I went out and got myself a soldering iron, and with some patience managed to solder the black and red wires back to their intended locations. Were it not for this thread over at SimHQ though, I would never have known where red went, and where black went (fair enough, there's only two possibilities, but trial and error is overrated).

 

In any case, after reassembling the stick (then noticing I had done a boo-boo, disassembling and again reassembling the stick) it turns out the contact is now ok again. I haven't subjected the stick to a heavy duty work-out yet, so I'm not absolutely positive yet on how the soldering will hold up (cross my fingers, knock on wood, I'm not the best of solderers).

 

 

 

To chime in here: I loved it since the second I got it. The issue I just encountered, as far as I'm concerned, was just a bump in the road. If my fix holds up, I'll be happily flying with one of the sticks on the market. Thing though is, when I bought it, there wasn't really much direct competition. There were no similar offerings from Logitech or Saitek and I didn't really want to get a CH product. Comparing the Warthog to my previous joystick, an X52, I must say the build quality, ruggedness (heh, irony) but most of all precision are a very welcome improvement.

 

-Z

This can be a problem if you go to re grease it also.Its tight in there with tiny wires that get cut easily. I rewired mine using the extra wires from a ps2 wire i was using for an extension, and heat wrapping it all. I'm not worried about a warranty issue as it's way past that point now.


Edited by snafup
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  • 1 year later...

so i encountered this exact same problem over the weekend. Had my Warthog for 4 years now and never opened it once.

 

Joystick buttons stopped working except the weapons fire button. in the windows game controllers all button lights would light up when i pressed weapons fire.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=137439&d=1459182770

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Happened to me as well (same symptoms). Quick soldering and was fixed.

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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  • 1 year later...

I had the same issue after 3 years...wire broke loose at the bulk head connector just like the pictures above. It looks like the wire with the least slack will take all the stress from movement and eventually break. It was easy to solder back though. Maybe it will hold another three years :)

 

slyfly

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I noticed this behavior due to a connection cable of my extender.

Properly attached it works. A bit loose and you get all buttons triggered.

Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS + Pedals

(AB-detent Mod, Stick extension Mod)

HTC Cosmos VR

Track IR

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  • 5 months later...

that could've been a refurb unit that they repaired and resent. shonky AF. have to replace the wires for piece of mind but you could do a dodgy on and resolder and heatshrink the join.

 

It could be a little bulky if you dio that and may not sit well in the ball.

Action After Contemplation

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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi, guys.

 

I have a disconnected grounding cable that is screwed onto the base and leads into the big black cable :)

 

I removed the heat shrink tube at the beginning of the cable and found a metal-like insulation. Is this the place where I have to solder the ground cable? Does anyone know?

 

Thanks

 

 

EDIT: I think I found the grounding of the shielded cable ... so probably yes.


Edited by Smudooo
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