Debolestis Shapeways shop

I ordered the warthog throttle detent and it works like a charm... Very pleased with it.

No more pull up and push for afterburner, just push through now, perfect solution

You should make it the model with the pinky trigger on it (C model?), and perhaps adding a faux collar (the nut with the knurling)

 

Yes I'll do that, probably nobody's going to buy it, but it doesn't matter.

 

I ordered the warthog throttle detent and it works like a charm... Very pleased with it.

 

No more pull up and push for afterburner, just push through now, perfect solution

I saw Warthog throttle only once, I remember that levers must been lifted before throttling up. I don't remember afterburner detente. Does this part removes both?

The part on the shapeways store makes it so you no longer have to lift up, now you just have to push past resistance at the military power detent.

Would it be possible to get a tailpiece that has a 13-degree tilt forward and a 15-degree offset to the right? According to this schematic:

http://www.aerotronicsllc.com/f16ssc.htm

The F16 sidestick is supposed to have a 12-degree tilt to the right.

Hey Debolestis!

Which plastic would you recommend for the mechanical parts? I dont want the plastic breaking anytime soon...

Aluminum

Would it be possible to get a tailpiece that has a 13-degree tilt forward and a 15-degree offset to the right? According to this schematic:

 

http://www.aerotronicsllc.com/f16ssc.htm

 

The F16 sidestick is supposed to have a 12-degree tilt to the right.

OK, I'll do it in next day or two.

Hey Debolestis!

 

Which plastic would you recommend for the mechanical parts? I dont want the plastic breaking anytime soon...

Shapeways has material that is called "strong and flexible". It is actually nylon. It is very strong, you'll see. I don't know what do you want to build. Metal prints are very expensive compared to nylon and are usually overkill.

Shapeways has material that is called "strong and flexible". It is actually nylon. It is very strong, you'll see. I don't know what do you want to build. Metal prints are very expensive compared to nylon and are usually overkill.

Baur BRD DS to warthog adapter. Or basically I just want to use the TM M36x2 system, as pretty much anybody offers warthog adapters for their sticks and Gardena nuts are awesome! At the moment I will use it with a CH Combatstick and will design another adapter aound a Gardena nut, which should arrive in the next few days.

Do you know if I can accurately print M4 threads with nylon SLS btw? Earlier in your thread you said you cant print M2 or whaterver it was, as its too small.

Baur BRD DS to warthog adapter. Or basically I just want to use the TM M36x2 system, as pretty much anybody offers warthog adapters for their sticks and Gardena nuts are awesome! At the moment I will use it with a CH Combatstick and will design another adapter aound a Gardena nut, which should arrive in the next few days.

 

Do you know if I can accurately print M4 threads with nylon SLS btw? Earlier in your thread you said you cant print M2 or whaterver it was, as its too small.

 

M4, no way, but you can easily tap that, for nylon you don't even have to use tap tool just screw the bolt into plastic.

I printed M36, that works.

What sort of Baur gimbal do you have, can you post a photo of it?

Sorry cant post a photo right now, but it is the one from this thread here.

https://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&hl=de&rurl=translate.google.de&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php%3Ff%3D27%26t%3D889%26sid%3D03c28c3f4a0be5be908e87e2f6566c9d

M4, no way, but you can easily tap that, for nylon you don't even have to use tap tool just screw the bolt into plastic.

Shapeways quotes a layer thickness of 0.15mm for SLS, that would be 26 layers for M4, thats not very many. I have no experience with 3D printing so I will just listen to you. :)

Could you tell me the top hole diameter of the Gardena nut and approximate top layer thickness please? Btw I can send you the 3D model of the CH Combatstick adapter, then you have the exact measurements for your projects if you are interested.

Top opening is 25mm, thickness is approximately 3mm.

Thanks again! I am sorry if I am spamming your thread please tell me and I will make a new thread.

I removed the M4 threads as you advised and went with the core drill holes of 3,3mm. Today I received the Gardena nut and finished the exterior of the adapter. I found some Mini DIN connectors on Aliexpress, similar to the Warthog. I will go with 6 pin even though the TM connectors are only 5 pin.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-MDC-S-Terminal-connectors-Mini-PS2-Socket-din-seat-PS2-6P-female-seat-straight-inserted/32822109240.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-6-Pin-DIN-Male-Solder-Connector-With-Plastic-Handle-Soldering-cables-DIY-3pcs-lot/32730212630.html

I am thinking about putting interlocking "teeth" on the opposing surfaces of the adapters to freely adjust grip rotation, eg in 5° increments. Do you think this whole thing is feasible in Nylon SLS? Initially I wanted to machine it from Aluminium locally, but then I need to wait 2 months and I wouldnt have the possibility to make a cheap prototype.

Edit: like this! But I guess it doesnt make much sense for compatibility. :/

Thanks again! I am sorry if I am spamming your thread please tell me and I will make a new thread.

 

I removed the M4 threads as you advised and went with the core drill holes of 3,3mm. Today I received the Gardena nut and finished the exterior of the adapter. I found some Mini DIN connectors on Aliexpress, similar to the Warthog. I will go with 6 pin even though the TM connectors are only 5 pin.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10PCS-MDC-S-Terminal-connectors-Mini-PS2-Socket-din-seat-PS2-6P-female-seat-straight-inserted/32822109240.html

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mini-6-Pin-DIN-Male-Solder-Connector-With-Plastic-Handle-Soldering-cables-DIY-3pcs-lot/32730212630.html

 

I am thinking about putting interlocking "teeth" on the opposing surfaces of the adapters to freely adjust grip rotation, eg in 5° increments. Do you think this whole thing is feasible in Nylon SLS? Initially I wanted to machine it from Aluminium locally, but then I need to wait 2 months and I wouldnt have the possibility to make a cheap prototype.

 

 

Edit: like this! But I guess it doesnt make much sense for compatibility. :/

 

I think it looks OK, when you upload to Shapeways model will be checked and you'll be informed if there are any problems. I don't know if teeth are necessary, it is up to you.

Would it be possible to get a tailpiece that has a 13-degree tilt forward and a 15-degree offset to the right? According to this schematic:

 

http://www.aerotronicsllc.com/f16ssc.htm

 

The F16 sidestick is supposed to have a 12-degree tilt to the right.

It is uploaded to my Shapeways store, you can buy it HERE.

It is uploaded to my Shapeways store, you can buy it HERE.

Thanks! I'm planning to use it with the FFSB R3 force sensing mod. Will the plastic version be strong enough for this, or do I need the steel version?

I would definitely recommend the steel print if you're going to use the full 13lbs, I felt uneasy even using the default warthog one.

The 15 degree rotation is only for the actual input axis, not the grip. You can set this up with the FSSB software.

Thanks! I'm planning to use it with the FFSB R3 force sensing mod. Will the plastic version be strong enough for this, or do I need the steel version?

I don't know. Only issue I had with my tailpieces was with FFSB R3 user who reported wobbling when tailpiece was installed. He used metal tailpiece. I don't know if that particular Warthog was flawed or there was problem with tailpiece. I had no other complaints, if you are not sure use plastic tailpiece and test it for yourself.

I added a few new parts. First I needed D-sub blanks/covers. Sometimes when I mod joysticks there are usually a few of D-sub openings that look ugly.

There are many D-sub variants,

I draw DE-9 and DA-15, I think those are the most common.

DE-9

DA-15

For installation you need two M3 screws and nuts. Nuts fits into hexagonal slot on the back side.

I have also made two versions of locking nut for Cougar or Warthog. One that looks like F-16 nut and one that looks like F-15 nut. They are not 100% the same, I had problems drawing knurled surfaces, I did the best that I could, 3D printers have restrictions.

F-16 Version

Original

F-15 Version

Original

These models are not tested, I hope they'll work.

I added a few new parts. First I needed D-sub blanks/covers. Sometimes when I mod joysticks there are usually a few of D-sub openings that look ugly.

 

 

There are many D-sub variants,

I draw DE-9 and DA-15, I think those are the most common.

 

DE-9

 

DA-15

For installation you need two M3 screws and nuts. Nuts fits into hexagonal slot on the back side.

 

I have also made two versions of locking nut for Cougar or Warthog. One that looks like F-16 nut and one that looks like F-15 nut. They are not 100% the same, I had problems drawing knurled surfaces, I did the best that I could, 3D printers have restrictions.

 

F-16 Version

 

Original

 

F-15 Version

 

Original

 

These models are not tested, I hope they'll work.

Save

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Beautiful. Having a few of these I've machined for myself a word of warning when using a collar that takes up the full space under the grip: The threads will engage before the miniDIN. You need to go very slowly and feel your way to make sure the miniDIN goes in right. Unlike these, on the stock TM setup the collar is narrow enough to lift out of the way and plug the connector first, then bring the threads together. Don't ask me how I know! :p

These collars are of same height as Gardena nuts. Din connector can go first. I'll make some prints next month, collars are on top og my list. Shapeways has new version of nylon: black and grey polished. Black nylon parts were not as nice as other colours, now there is smooth black and finaly grey. Gray and black are in beta phase, I hope they'll be aproved soon.

Free shipping on Shapeways on all orders over 25$ until 24th September.

I made this print:

It is cover for D-sub DE-9 connector. I print it in new material that is in test phase, black polished. It has more smooth look, not like acrylate but it is OK. I hope that it will be soon released for everybody, at the moment I can only print my own designs with this material.

This is back side with slot for M3 nuts.

Nuts installed:

And mounted:

I know nobody will print this, but that opening was annoying, and now I feel good.

New print!!!

This is F-16 style locking nut, printed in new material gray and polished. It is a bit darker than I expected but looks nice. Finally there is real grey color, for now in test phase. I hope it will be released soon.

The collar looks very nice, knurled parts are also very well printed, much better then I expected.

Threads are also very well printed.

Another view of knurled part.

I don't have Warthog base but nut fits on Cougar, so Warthog should be OK. I have this part of Cougar base. It also fits on my 3D printed gimbal.

I didn't photographed replacement procedure but it was easy. Just be careful when putting everything back together. There are many tiny wires inside Warthog grip.

Here it is mounted on my 3D printed gimbal.