Another painting question

I've been mulling over this one for awhile now. Yes, I've finally started back building after a god-awful year. Months of health issues and hospital stays ad-nauseam, but that's neither here nor there. Now one of the things I've been thinking about is painting. Things like knobs I've yet to do and touching up various other cockpit pieces.

Deadman has created a fantastic tutorial on his thread on painting knobs. He uses a rattle-can, which is what I've been using While cruising Warhog's incredible works of art on his thread, I noticed he uses an airbrush. Now my questions.

Which is the better solution? I've no experience at all using an airbrush. Would it be advantageous to use one? What kind of paint do you use? Anything special, or just plain any?

I know this isn't a terribly exciting thread, but one I was very curious about. With all the incredible builds that are happening, from LynxDK's fantastic new products to Boltz's great new builds. From Warhog's masterpieces (really should be a master engineer of a aerospace company, but that may be a step down,) to all the new build interests, this has spurred me to start up again. So thank you all for the renewed interest!

P.S. Almost forgot, without Ian and DCS-Bios, we'd all still be clambering about interfacing, so a huge debt of gratitude goes there!

Yes Wayne, it has been one of those years you want to forget. I had 3 heart attacks (Dec, Jan and Feb), was diagnosed with diabetes and was suppose to have a bunch of lymph nodes removed because a biopsy came back as n stage melanoma. I survived the heart attacks, dealt with the diabetes and found out that the cancer diagnosis was wrong 2 days before the operation was to take place. So I can sympathise with you. And then, of course, there's the arthritis. Getting old SUCKS my friend. However...

Thank you for your very kind words. I am so glad to see that you intend to continue with this awesome and overwhelming project we call a cockpit. Its about the only thing that has kept me from falling into a state of major depression. I spend every day working on it. I'm also extremely thankful for my good friend Ian. His fabulous DCS-BIOS has had an incredible impact on all of us cockpit builders without which, we would all be heading off in different directions.

Now lets talk about painting. I have been a model builder for most of my adult life. You may have seen some of my more recent builds on my photo sites. All of my models have been painted with an air brush. An air brush is similar to a rattle in that it sprays paint BUT an airbrush is far more precise in how much color you lay down. I would suggest a rattle can is comparable to using a hand saw to cut your panels with. An airbrush is incredibly easy to use and you can purchase small kits with everything you need. Be advised that a compressor is also necessary running at 6 to 12 psi.

As to paint, I use good old Tamiya or Model Masters acrylic paint (water washable) and then lay down several coats of clear semi gloss as a sealer. The black I use is Model Masters "Aircraft Interior Black" which is a soft black and matches the engraving plastic I use. I also use Tamiya X-19 flat grey for knobs and buttons. And, again, I always lay down severals layers of clear coat. Material prep is too scuff sand the acrylic with some 800 paper and then spray paint several coats of color and then seal it. Your done. BTW, when you use an airbrush, the paint dries almost immediately. You can lay down 3 or 4 coats in no time at all. Only thing with an airbrush is its a little fussy. It needs to be cleaned properly after every use. Its not hard to do but some people find it tedious as there are smallish parts involved.

I would suggest that an airbrush is really the only way to get consistently good painted finishes. When I hear the term "rattle-can" I cringe. Its like nails on a chalk board. Not including a compressor you would probably spend $60 to $125.00. The Paasche airbrush is what I started with and it was under $100.00. http://www.paascheairbrush.com/products/airbrushes-airbrush-parts-and-accessories/Airbrushes/single-action/h-1l

I hope that helps you Wayne. I would check out a few YouTube videos on using an airbrush. In my view, an air brush is not only a wonderful tool, its an indispensable, tool. :)

i have to agree with John, airbrush is a really helpfull tool for this. doesn't have to be very expencive. el cheapo harborfright "horible" tools AirBrush will not set you back to much and it is not that bad at all. i still use ordinary portable compressor (with fluid catch)

there are scale model grade "rattle cans" with nice thin pigment particles that don't eat up the detail, but in long run those add up to be very expensive and wasteful option

Thanks so much you guys. Just confirmed a suspicion that I will need to yet again take my wife out to really nice place to ease the "Babe, I need another expensive tool, no it's really not an absolute necessity but, well yes I realize I have a lot of paint cans but this will make it, I know I just got a big sprayer for paint but that was for big things, this is for - how much so far? Well, I haven't had the heart to add all the receipts, but, yes I do realize it's as much as a car but..." I'm sure we've all had a few of those. :D I

don't doubt that it will be worth it in the long haul, and hopefully won't have some of the orange-peel effect I often get with the big cans.

Compressor - toolshop 2gal from Menard's 60$. HF Airbrush 22$ plus few more $ for hoses and such. Then there is paint, thinner, pipettes, good mask etc. Nothing that hurts the bank to much.

Aside of AB setup do consider where you going to paint. A spray booth of sorts will be required. DIY options are plentiful, there are options for all budget levels. Starts as cheap as larger plastic container from wallmart and a bathroom fan ducted out the window

Honestly, I would not recommend rattlecan or any single part paint for knobs unless you touch them very infrequently.

Ideally some catalyzed paint you use with a sprayer, which an airbrush is ok but the super tiny tips make it hard to spray industrial coatings without thinning them a great deal.

Polyurethane paint (catalyzed car paint) is toxic as hell, but is thin enough to be reduced to use with an airbrush and if you make a ventilation booth to evacuate the fumes and use a decent respirator you can paint these things with a seriously durable finish.

If you are doing a bunch at once it makes sense, not so much for just a few knobs.

There is a more recent development in rattlecan offerings though, you can buy a can of disposable polyurethane touch up srpay that you bang on the ground to release the catalyst and shake/spray same as normal, but it's straight up catalyzed car paint and you can pick any color/sheen you want. Example: http://www.66autocolor.com/Auto-Spray-Paint-Spray-Max-2K-Aerosol-p/spm2k-custompaint.htm

Also one last option, are Perval disposable sprayers. I've personally used these before to spray gelcoat into molds for composite part work and was surprised how well they actually work. You can use catalyzed polyurethane in one of those as well, reduced to the proper viscosity of course.

I do have somewhat of a DIY paint booth. It's basically a table surrounded by very large cardboard walls in a corner that's surrounded by a plastic sheet with an old box fan and furnace filter to direct the fumes out a window. It's neither fancy nor expensive, but it seems to work.

...Ideally some catalyzed paint you use with a sprayer, which an airbrush is ok but the super tiny tips make it hard to spray industrial coatings without thinning them a great deal.

Really think it would be worth the complexity and hassle of using a catalyst paint? I was just planning on using basically what I've been using so far. After painting the panel or bracket or whatever little piece I'm working on, I usually coat it a few times with a matte clear coat. Either Krylon Fusion for Plastic Clear or 2X Ultra Cover Matte Clear. For me, it always gives it a "finished" look that really looks surprisingly professional. It's worked so far, and haven't had any trouble with durability.

It may be "just a few knobs" at the moment (honestly, more than a "few"!) but I'm quite sure that those aren't the only things I can use it for. It just seems to me that the ability to be precise and accurately place paint where I want it without runs would be worth it. Yeah, it's something that you'd have to actually plan a little in advance and then there's the clean-up, but what can you do?

Thanks again for all the suggestions. That 66autocolor.com does look interesting though. Might look into that a little

Wayne

Wayne, Just try a bottle of Model Masters and Tamiya paint to start with. They are inexpensive, non toxic and easy to clean up with just soap and water.

I have had some experience using a two part paint in my airbrush (my Paasche) when I had decided I wanted to refinish my .45 1911. I painted both the frame and the slide. It looked awesome when it was done. Still does actually and yes with paint like that a vented power hood is really important if you don't want to die in the near future. But the paints I use now, work great and they will last a long long time. And if you need to do some touch up in a couple of years, well , you have the tools so it's no problem.:thumbup:

Start with easy stuff and experiment. And don't forget to tell your lovely wife that she is welcome to have some fun with it as well. It has so many uses and crosses over many hobbies.

While it is indeed non toxic , having acryl aerosol in your lungs is not a good thing. Gave me quite a headache first few times even with venting paint booth. So don't skip on that mask .

Sorry for off topic , good to know that you are a firearm owner as well John :)

 

--snippage--

I have had some experience using a two part paint in my airbrush (my Paasche) when I had decided I wanted to refinish my .45 1911. I painted both the frame and the slide. It looked awesome when it was done. Still

Well THAT SUCKS! You have a 1911 as well? :D

I had one when I lived in AZ. Now that I'm in NY, it's practically impossible to get a license to carry. Grr.

Man do I miss my 1911.

Well THAT SUCKS! You have a 1911 as well? :D

 

I had one when I lived in AZ. Now that I'm in NY, it's practically impossible to get a license to carry. Grr.

 

Man do I miss my 1911.

Actually 2 of them.

That will teach you to move to New York.:smilewink: I couldn't live without my 1911's, or my 686 or my SIG P220 or my 3 AR15's:music_whistling: I won't go on. I know it hurts.:(

But you have DCS now. What more could you want.:P :lol:

Now you're just rubbing it in! LOL.

Well, my last pieces for MPCNC is coming tomorrow so I hope to put together the CNC this weekend. Then I'll get busy making some switchboxes.

Man, do I envy you: Mad DCS skills *and* your 1911s and ARs.

And yes, it does hurt bad! :)

Speaking of painting, with a rattler or airbrush, anyone know a good way to create a jig for drilling the hole in the knobs for the shaft? Especially for the knobs that don't have a flat top?

As an aside, you ought to come to Vermont were there aren't many firearm laws. Personally, I like my little SS 92fs. But my fun go-to is the Mini-14. :D

Awesome build MacFevre - both of them.

And my buddy had the Ruger. It sure was lot of fun!

I really do miss it. Ah well.

Speaking of painting, with a rattler or airbrush, anyone know a good way to create a jig for drilling the hole in the knobs for the shaft? Especially for the knobs that don't have a flat top?

 

As an aside, you ought to come to Vermont were there aren't many firearm laws. Personally, I like my little SS 92fs. But my fun go-to is the Mini-14. :D

on the drilling holes thing, one solution I have seen is a metal rod, approx 50mm long and around 20mm i diameter with the center drilled out. The the base of the knob of top of the rod and drill away.

Thanks Peter, so it's basically just a dowel with the center drilled out?

Thanks Peter, so it's basically just a dowel with the center drilled out?

Pretty much, the outer diameter ideally matches the diameter of the base of the knob (makes it easier to correctly center, and the inner hole matches the diameter of the shaft of the rotary/pot.