Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods

I have full Suncom converted to USB still for sale... I really want to get rid of it to invest in some other sim gear.

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=191977

Which joystick grip is better Thrustmaster FLCS or Suncom F15 or Chproducts fighterstick/flightstick,i mean better ergonomics,plastics,buttons ?

Flcs in my oppinion. I heard that F22 has even better plastics than Flcs.

I doubt that Tm have changed the plastic from F16FLCS to F22PRO, but who know... :D

For my (Suncom) F-15 has better ergonomics, "fit better" in the hand, F22PRO POV HAT and weapon release button is too high for my hand, same issue with CH F16 Combat and FighterStick (I have all this grips).

Buttons wise I prefer the HAT/buttons in CH, short course but very positive click, in Suncom they too "flimsy" and in F22PRO HAT's corners is difficult to press.

I doubt that Tm have changed the plastic from F16FLCS to F22PRO, but who know... :D

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I do, since I own both. The F22Pro plastic is smoother and looks nicer. The 16FLCS plastic feels a bit stronger. I stress "feels", I've not tested to be sure, but despite that choose to convert the F16FLCS stick for use with my VKB Black Mamba due to its precieved strength. The conversion was a success and it works quite well on the Mamba, BTW.

Catfish post this scheme in Il-2.ru for use Alps RKJXM as 4 way HAT through CD4021B Shift Register, using 74HC4066 solid state switch instead diodes - no additional PCB is needed:

 

That looks quite interesting. So the 74HC4066 chip replaces the need for the second PCB SergeyPe posted here and also for the diodes on the mounting PCB? If I only need a 4 way HAT with push button function is the Alps RKJXM the best choice out there? Are these similarly sturdy as the OMRON switches?

SITREP of my Grip Mod.

Grip himself 90% finished....

That looks quite interesting. So the 74HC4066 chip replaces the need for the second PCB SergeyPe posted here and also for the diodes on the mounting PCB? If I only need a 4 way HAT with push button function is the Alps RKJXM the best choice out there? Are these similarly sturdy as the OMRON switches?

Replacing an additional PCB for RKJXM switch- yes. Replacing the diodes for RKJXL switch- no; they serve a totally different purpose. If you need just a 4 way hat with push button function then ALPS RKJXL is the best choice as its central push fuction works independently. The diodes are just for transforming it into an 8 way hat. As for sturdiness- ALPS guarantees 100K cycles for both RKJXM and RKJXL. With OMRON B3F it's between 300K and 10M depending on the model but only if you are able to limit the actuation force and make sure that it's perpendicular to the switch body; otherwise the button will die pretty fast. In real life it's quite difficult to achieve. Besides, RKJXL provides a tactile feeling similar to the real stick hats (reasonably long travel with no click) as opposed to the tact switch- based hats.

Replacing an additional PCB for RKJXM switch- yes. Replacing the diodes for RKJXL switch- no; they serve a totally different purpose. If you need just a 4 way hat with push button function then ALPS RKJXL is the best choice as its central push fuction works independently. The diodes are just for transforming it into an 8 way hat. As for sturdiness- ALPS guarantees 100K cycles for both RKJXM and RKJXL. With OMRON B3F it's between 300K and 10M depending on the model but only if you are able to limit the actuation force and make sure that it's perpendicular to the switch body; otherwise the button will die pretty fast. In real life it's quite difficult to achieve. Besides, RKJXL provides a tactile feeling similar to the real stick hats (reasonably long travel with no click) as opposed to the tact switch- based hats.

Hello SergeyPe! First of all, thank you for uploading all of your Sprint layout files, these are incredibly helpful in any joystick modding endeavor.

Ok, got it. So the RKJXL it is. I downloaded the suncom lay6 file from your post here. If I understand correctly I just need the six edged PCB from the right side or wire it manually, no diodes required. Thats great, thanks!

Hello rel4y! It's my pleasure to share my modding experience with the community. As for mounting RKJXL- well, PCB is not mandatory, but it will usually simplify the installation; it will also eliminate the possibility of breaking the switch leads. You can also use the circular PCB from the same file- just do not mount the diodes.

Arrows show what I bent. Cooper brushes were down, just raise them a little. I also bent sprigs because they were scratching the plastics.

 

 

 

I added solder on larger contact plate, it was damaged i the middle.

 

This was pain in ass, my cooper brushes are so weak that even i rise those they take back way motion really badly.

Maybe put something under those ? any ideas ?

Why not study a way for replace this switch with a slide switch?

https://www.tts-group.co.uk/slide-switch/1003744.html

Why not study a way for replace this switch with a slide switch?

 

https://www.tts-group.co.uk/slide-switch/1003744.html

Thanks , thats really good idea. Looks like it will even install with very little work.

Why im not fiqured something like this myself , im getting old :P

Sent when im drunk with my iphone near me :)

I have 9 more Suncom to Thrustmaster PCBs. I corrected a few errors from version 1. PM if you are interested.

I have 9 more Suncom to Thrustmaster PCBs. I corrected a few errors from version 1. PM if you are interested.

 

I have allready your first version ? what diffrences is here ? im always intrested, maybe you could make version that has 2-way thump switch ? :thumbup:

Finally got my suncom SFS thorttle converted to USB , works really fine, even potentiometers are spike free.

PCB is same as before, just minor errors corrected. I forgot 3 resistors on previous version.

So Two questions...

The little button below the Hat and Trim switches. Is it assignable as a function or is it still not useable?

Second, any chance you’d be interested in a modified version? Is there any way it could be done to allow use of a TW CMS Switch where the ACQ Switch s?

The little switch works, same as S3 on Warthog.

There is no way that CMS switch will fit, it is too large, one possible option is Alps 5way switch. Then we have another problem, there are 13 switches at the moment. I used 2 shift register chips on this PCB, so max number of switches is 16. For CMS switch I need 4 more switch possitions. Maybe one day I'll make another version, but at the moment I have no time for that.

The little switch works, same as S3 on Warthog.

There is no way that CMS switch will fit, it is too large, one possible option is Alps 5way switch. Then we have another problem, there are 13 switches at the moment. I used 2 shift register chips on this PCB, so max number of switches is 16. For CMS switch I need 4 more switch possitions. Maybe one day I'll make another version, but at the moment I have no time for that.

If ya have any left I'd be interested in one.

Let me know and I'll shoot ya a PM.

Had the throttle and stick from suncom,gave it to a sim shop in mississauga ontario for historical purposes lol..

Saw the other week the shop is gone....If i woulda thought about it i woulda let ya have it..Worked great..

Both versions are functionaly the same, there is no difference when you instal them.

I have 5 more PCBs left. Price is 25$. Older version was cheaper so no discount.

Yeah but you said you corrected errors on the one I bought so will it work correctly...Im confused here.

Yes, it is tested it will work. I added 3 resistors you can see them on two chips. New version doesn't have that and just looks nicer. That is it.

OK Ill take 1 board 25 please send me invoice, thanks

Ill pm you my email for Paypal. Thanks man