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Debolestis Shapeways shop


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Connect it like this:

HJgva4x.jpg

 

This is PS3 hall sensor thumb stick.

 

Connect like this. IN-Y from thumbstick to OUT-Y on pro micro, same for X.

ZvRcD8c.jpg

 

This is for switch:

6PL7H6f.jpg

 

This is for axes x and y:

dcooNbp.jpg

 

I made this screenshots before, if you have any problems please make screen shot of your mmjoy2 set up and post them here.


Edited by debolestis
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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, I have a button from FLCS joystick, it looks almost identical to yours.

 

do9Nmmy.jpg

 

18SrT8I.jpg

 

Measurements are almost identical. I added some color and material options but unfortunately there is no option for grey color. Keep in mind that it sometimes takes up to a month to produce metal parts. Plastic parts are shipped within a week.

 

Here is a LINK.

lS5EKMS.png

 

Please post feedback and a few photos here if you decide to buy this.


Edited by debolestis
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Hello Debolestis, I been thinking of buying some knobs for my X55 throttle that I placed 2 alps switches in the right handle. I was thinking for this I was going to buy 2 DMS castle knobs or F16 cursor knobs. Is there a option to get the inserts with the knobs. Like the ones you have in your alps switch holders. I had already placed knobs before you holders were developed. Here is the single post from MMjoy. Bottom Pic. Thanks!

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2819957&postcount=104

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Sorry if it's been posted before, but what alps switch is the holder designed for?

 

It is designed for Alps 5way (or 9way switch).

Holder has same shape as TM 4way switches. It is not finished, I just didn't have time, I'll try to finish it soon.

RKJXL100401V NAVIGATION SWITCH

 

 

mCp6k5u.jpg


Edited by debolestis
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I made model for Alps to TM knob adapter.

It is HERE. It is very small and maybe few manual adjustments will be necesary.

 

I also made taller version of Cougar/FLCS/F22 button.

 

3Et8EaH.png

 

It can be found HERE.

 

xAsRBL0.jpg


Edited by debolestis
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok time to share! Got my parts from Shapeways.The white inserts are perfect size the whole that goes on the alps switch was small enough that i could hollow it out alittle bit so it would fit snug on the switch.I would make the insert round on the switch side so it has room to slide down the switch shaft past the small cutout for stability. The Castle hat fits snug over the white insert. For me no screw needed for the insert. Maybe i might add drop of glue to the white insert on the switch side if it starts to get loose. It still is small enough to remove the switch through the plate i made to hold the switch it self.. Thanks Debolestis.

picture.php?albumid=1169&pictureid=8386

picture.php?albumid=1169&pictureid=8387


Edited by Brewnix
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[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Great work, I am so happy that it worked out fine.

I got a news from Shapeways. Soon a new material is comming, black hi definition acrylate. It is as name says black colored plastic that has much nicer finish. It looks like something from factory, great for knobs. It is not strong as nylon.

 

I made a knob for warthog, the one I posted before. It looks great. I could print in this material for myself but I couldn't sell it. Soon it will be in my store.

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OK, I have a button from FLCS joystick, it looks almost identical to yours.

 

Here is a LINK.

TM%20Button-1_zps1jsbw0bh.png

 

Please post feedback and a few photos here if you decide to buy this.

 

I got the new button from Shapeways. It's pretty close but needs some minor modifications. Here are the original and the new one.

tlQCbf6.jpg

i1R2kPF.jpg

 

The original has gaps that accommodate the prongs that hold the microswtich in place for the NWS button seen here:

 

PRDgD0j.jpg

 

Since the other button doesn't have those prongs, I figured I could just swap them out but the head of the button is ever so slightly too big so it fits but the first time I press the button it gets locked in place.

 

I filed the perimeter of the head of the button (thankfully I had it printed in plastic so that was easy) and then it fit!

 

rIy9IGA.jpg

So it works but could use some tweaking. Not sure if it is a necessary feature but the notch isn't in the final print.

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Thank you for your feedback!

I made a new model, I did it strictly to your measurements.

Before I had problem with wall thickness. Two walls were to thin and I simply copied FLCS button, I thought it would be good enough.

 

I removed notch because of wall thickens and because I think it is not necessary.

Metal materials are removed, metal has even larger minimum wall thickness.

 

You wrote that you had made modifications. Can you post photo of that mod?

 

New model is HERE:

 

nAkFtRP.png

 

Can you make measurements for this button?

 

xAsRBL0.jpg

 

Thank you!

Save



Save


Edited by debolestis
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Can you make measurements for this button?

 

TM_cougar_zpsozrnys8c.jpg

 

Save



Save

 

Sure,

Let me know if this gives you what you need

7rneSjr.jpg

 

This one doesn't have a bracket like the NWS switch so the hollow under the head isn't necessary. The recess for this is shaped like the "leg" on the button though

HrCxXnM.jpg

 

I didn't measure the recess where it makes contact with the microswitch because it is identical to the other button. In fact, I took the button I ordered from shapeways and it fits in there perfectly.

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Thank you for your measurements! I updated the model.

 

Shapeways added a new material, Black Hi-Def Acrylate.

 

You can see it here:

 

mGGRMRL.jpg

 

It is DMS knob. Finish is much more smoother, also much finer detail is possible with this material. I added option for it in my shop, only on knobs and buttons and paddle lever for FLCS and Cougar.

 

Material is not as strong as nylon, I would use it for tailpieces, only in places where aesthetic is needed.

 

Unfortunately it is 2-3 times more expensive, but cheaper than metal. DMS knob in nylon costs $5.64, and in acrylate $12.87.


Edited by debolestis
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How difficult it would be to modify the thumbstick on a Warthog Throttle to accept your F-16 cursor knob? I find the eraserhead style thumbstick to be difficult to move accurately and thought increasing the length and surface area might help. Any thoughts?

 

Also, have you thought of making a few switch toppers? For example, I've wanted to convert one of the switches on the base of the Warthog Throttle into a gear lever by adding a circular topper that makes it easy to identify by feel.

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How difficult it would be to modify the thumbstick on a Warthog Throttle to accept your F-16 cursor knob? I find the eraserhead style thumbstick to be difficult to move accurately and thought increasing the length and surface area might help. Any thoughts?

It's been tried before, a full sized knob is too heavy.

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How difficult it would be to modify the thumbstick on a Warthog Throttle to accept your F-16 cursor knob? I find the eraserhead style thumbstick to be difficult to move accurately and thought increasing the length and surface area might help. Any thoughts?

 

This not a problem if you know how to disassemble it and make measurements. Than I can do it.

 

Also, have you thought of making a few switch toppers? For example, I've wanted to convert one of the switches on the base of the Warthog Throttle into a gear lever by adding a circular topper that makes it easy to identify by feel.

 

Please show in photo the switch that you want to mod and post an example or drawing.

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Debolestis,

 

Thing is the "navigation switch" used for "slew/TDC" in Warthog is small and fragile.

 

The guys that test a big cap in this find problems, e.g the cap can twist the switch.

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=146073

 

Thrustmaster use this "mini-HAT" cap on purpose, probable to don't stress the switch mechanism.

 

Maybe a better solution is the "HAT" inside a circle - like in TWCS, but this will require cut false HAT on throttle case.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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