Debolestis Shapeways shop

Actually why not?

Tomorrow I will try to post a picture

May be it can still be fixed

You cannot fix it with Dremel but you can TAP threads with a tool. I found cheaper tap tool on eBay. It will be easy I think, maybe there is a locksmith in your area who can do this. You can see how to tap holes in

. It is fixable but you need proper tools.

 

Plastic versions are tested and they work, I tested both versions myself on Cougar and Warthog.

 

Can you post a photo of your part?

That's the wrong size.. should be M36x2, that is m32.

A tap will not be able to clean these theads up unless you bot a special one called a 'bottoming tap'. Due to the shallow depth vs the large diameter, a normal tap is far too tapered to clean the threads up before bottoming out.

I sometimes cut tapered taps with a diamond tool/water to diy my own bottoming taps because they cost a lot more in most cases, especially m36x2!

I suspect the issue with printed metal is that there is shrinkage going from fusing temps to room temp. It can likely be compensated for by making models for metal printing say 5% larger, but without knowing the exact shrinkage ratio it would be hard to get right.

There is also some variance even using the same materials, depending on several other variables but once you knew the expected range it could be compensated for.

If you model a reference object and have it printed in metal, measuring it's actual dimensions vs modeled dimensions might give you a close approximation to go from.

If someone can precisely measure the metal one that's a problem, you might be able to figure out how much to compensate by from that. It needs to be precisely measured for this but comparing actual results to the modeled part should provide the answers.

Thanks for the help and for providing the info on the correct tap to be used

That’s quite expensive tool

Thabk you for corrections Okona, I removed metal part from my store, it is too expensive to experiment with.

I might have found a metal worker who can fix the thread of my cougar locking nut

I'm still waiting for the final confirmation from him but it looks promising.

But he said he doesn't have the correct Tap for the job

I will buy the tap and he will perform the job, I wouldn't even know from where to start if I had to do it by myself.

@Okona, you said it should be a M36x2

Do you know for sure?

I'm just crosschecking before buying the tap since it's quite expensive and I want to buy the correct one.

Thanks for the help

Yes that is correct size.

I might have found a metal worker who can fix the thread of my cougar locking nut

I'm still waiting for the final confirmation from him but it looks promising.

But he said he doesn't have the correct Tap for the job

I will buy the tap and he will perform the job, I wouldn't even know from where to start if I had to do it by myself.

@Okona, you said it should be a M36x2

Do you know for sure?

I'm just crosschecking before buying the tap since it's quite expensive and I want to buy the correct one.

 

Thanks for the help

That is definitely the right size, but if the guy is a machinist just have him use a single-point cutter and tell him to 'pick up the thread' and save yourself a bunch of money to have better results. He's a machinist so he should know to use a left hand cutting tool and run the machine in reverse (this starts the cut at the blind end and the tool runs towards the opening so no way to crash) which sounds more complicated than it is... it's pretty standard fare for cutting female threads in a blind hole.

I'm a machinist as well, and have made several M-36x2 components for projects out of metal, both male and female. You don't even use taps or dies for holes this big, you cut them single-point on a lathe though in your case you just want to chase threads already there.

You would still need a lathe just to use a tap anyhow, you can't just chuck the nut in a vise without crushing it or distorting it, it has to go in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck to properly support the piece for the high torque it will receive from attempting to run a tap into it, and if it's tight enough fit it might not survive the brute force.

Also, you need a BOTTOMING TAP for this and those will always be listed as such. Without this in the title it is a plug or regular taper tap and bottoming taps cost way more than regular taps and way way more than a new nut from Shapeways printed out of metal cost. I've seen resharpened and used ones for as cheap as $90 on ebay but this is not a household item.

This is a very shallow/large diameter blind hole so is nothing like working on a deep hole or a through hole. As such it req either special tools (bottoming tap, or modifying a plug or taper tap to be a makeshift bottoming tap) or tricky logistics (picking up a female thread much harder than picking up a male).

Honesty if you're willing to buy an M-36x2 bottoming tap you should just have your machinist friend precision measure (to the hundredth mm) some key dimensions (outer diameter, minor/inner diameter, height) so debolestis can figure out how to alter the file so that when Shapeways *finishes* the printing process the part is the size of the desired specs.

Once you know how much smaller the real world part ends up after the laws of thermodynamics have their way with it, you can massage the part file to compensate and this will be cheaper and better than buying an expensive tap you only need to use once that might not even work.

Yes the single point cutter seems the best thing

I just watched videos on youtube and it really looks what is needed for this job

The problem is that i still don't know if this guy is really willing to do it

Today i contacted quite a few in this area and they all said no

I don't understand, it seems today you almost have to pray people, i mean, i'm giving you a job to do and money for it....bah

Anyway if i start complicating things for him, i am sure he will say no as well

So i have to keep things as simple as possible for him, but at the same time i must be quite sure that the bottoming tap way will do the job

Will see

In the mean time i found another one even closer to me, and i will contact him tomorrow

If he doesn't immediately say no at the first question, the second question will be if he can use the single point cutter system

Will keep you posted

I just don't want to hijack Debolestis discussion thread more than this

Hello Debolestis,

The airbus that I've been waiting for has finally gone into public release. I was getting ready to order the detent that we designed together but noticed that the original link shows "not for sale"

https://www.shapeways.com/product/CQH36Z3EJ/warthog-throttle-part-airbus

I've also noticed that you have a new airbus detent in your store.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WU5SDEN23/warthog-throttle-part-airbus?optionId=64806143

Could you please tell me why you created the new version? Did the original have any issues?

Thanks

Hello Debolestis,

 

The airbus that I've been waiting for has finally gone into public release. I was getting ready to order the detent that we designed together but noticed that the original link shows "not for sale"

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/CQH36Z3EJ/warthog-throttle-part-airbus

 

I've also noticed that you have a new airbus detent in your store.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WU5SDEN23/warthog-throttle-part-airbus?optionId=64806143

 

Could you please tell me why you created the new version? Did the original have any issues?

 

Thanks

Old version didn't work. Then I made a new version with 3 detents: 56, 77 and 100%. I don't know if it will work, it was ordered by somebody, we'll probably know soon.

Did the old version not work because it needed some minor tweaking to it or was it just impractical to use with the warthog?

I made a few other models.

Warthog 5 way switch shaft. It is untested, but I think it will work.

Then I have CH to Warthog tailpiece

Same thing as above but with 10mm offset.

I don't know if anybody will ever buy it, it was not easiest mod. I used shift register board from TM FLCS, and I heavily modded CH switch PCB. Here are a few photos.

Looks like this airbus part is again not correctly made. Looks like I have made it with wrong values in mind. I will remove permanently from my shop, I simply cannot test it myself, I don't have Airbus sim.

I am so sorry that some people ordered it and it will not work well. Most of you will probably be able to get a refund or exchange it for something else.

I sent you a PM with some feedback for the airbus part

Can you make cheap extension to Virpil T-50 , curved would be instabuy, maybe 10-15cm high?

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Can you make cheap extension to Virpil T-50 , curved would be instabuy, maybe 10-15cm high?

 

 

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I can make an extension, also curved but if it is 10-15cm long it will not be cheap.

Are one in Thinghvrse:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1160307

I can make an extension, also curved but if it is 10-15cm long it will not be cheap.

Ok, maybe no curved then. :)

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hey debolestis, have question regarding dimensions of the tailpieces you offer.

I would like to fit Cobra M5 grip to TM T16k base. Thinking about following part (pls see pic below) as a possible solution as the TM T16k shaft has the same outer diameter 14mm as MS Sidewinder Precision 2 shaft (think the same as on MS FF2)

https://images1.sw-cdn.net/product/picture/710x528_20115544_11586403_1504302972.jpg

Pls, the upper narrower part of the tailpiece, which goes inside the grip, what is the outer diameter of it and the length of it? The Cobra M5 shaft is of diameter 15mm and length of 40mm.

thx in advance for info

hey debolestis, have question regarding dimensions of the tailpieces you offer.

 

I would like to fit Cobra M5 grip to TM T16k base. Thinking about following part (pls see pic below) as a possible solution as the TM T16k shaft has the same outer diameter 14mm as MS Sidewinder Precision 2 shaft (think the same as on MS FF2)

 

https://images1.sw-cdn.net/product/picture/710x528_20115544_11586403_1504302972.jpg

 

Pls, the upper narrower part of the tailpiece, which goes inside the grip, what is the outer diameter of it and the length of it? The Cobra M5 shaft is of diameter 15mm and length of 40mm.

 

thx in advance for info

I'm interested in such a part as well. I have a torn down T16k with that shaft in tact and can supply precision measurements of any of the geometry if needed.

hey debolestis, have question regarding dimensions of the tailpieces you offer.

 

I would like to fit Cobra M5 grip to TM T16k base. Thinking about following part (pls see pic below) as a possible solution as the TM T16k shaft has the same outer diameter 14mm as MS Sidewinder Precision 2 shaft (think the same as on MS FF2)

 

https://images1.sw-cdn.net/product/picture/710x528_20115544_11586403_1504302972.jpg

 

Pls, the upper narrower part of the tailpiece, which goes inside the grip, what is the outer diameter of it and the length of it? The Cobra M5 shaft is of diameter 15mm and length of 40mm.

 

thx in advance for info

Diameter is 16mm and length is 26,5mm. But this is for fixed grip.

Cobra has yaw axis as well, it is not fixed. Do you want it to be fixed on TM base?

If you can porvide measurements, I can draw whatever you want.

Yes thats correct. I want to have the Cobra grip to be fixed on the TM base as I have rudder pedals.

Thanks in advance for the price calculation if you could be so kind :) You can PM me if you like

Attached is the quick sketch. The wider part which fits on the shaft is without change. Material and color is ok as is - Green, Strong & Flexible.

If its possible pls do the price calculation for 70mm version (as depicted) and shorter 50mm version. I am just curious what will be the price difference.

Btw I am assuming the inside diameter of the wider part which fits on the shaft is 14mm. Pls could you confirm this? thx

Yes thats correct. I want to have the Cobra grip to be fixed on the TM base as I have rudder pedals.

 

Thanks in advance for the price calculation if you could be so kind :) You can PM me if you like

 

Attached is the quick sketch. The wider part which fits on the shaft is without change. Material and color is ok as is - Green, Strong & Flexible.

 

If its possible pls do the price calculation for 70mm version (as depicted) and shorter 50mm version. I am just curious what will be the price difference.

Btw I am assuming the inside diameter of the wider part which fits on the shaft is 14mm. Pls could you confirm this? thx

Cobra grip sits on top of a shaft and it is not fixed. How will you fix it in place? Do you want to glue it? Do you have measurements and photos of Cobra shaft?

I made some pics and added measurements. Plus depicted the tailpiece (70mm) in place. Pls find attached.

Sure, I want the grip to sits on top of the TM T16k shaft and to be fixed.

How to fix it? Maybe glue the printed tailpiece to that potentiometer and used the potentiometer fixture to hold it in place. If that will not work then run two screws through the grip and tailpiece.

Black Mamba used same but fixed grip. Maybe you know somebody who has it? It is difficult to see how to do it from photos. I can make something from your drawings, but I don't know how that will work.