Debolestis Shapeways shop

Regards...Im looking for an MSSidewinderFF2 adapter for a Suncom Hawk grip. Im not sure if its available in 3d shop. Let me know, plz.

inigohe

I'll make this one soon.

debolestis, any chance of a Warthog grip shell? I'm wanting to transfer the guts of my Warthog grip to something with a lot less weight.

What would be the chances of a standard shaped circular gear lever knob with a short protruding shaft that slides onto a DSD Button Box toggle switch, which you can then tighten down with a couple of opposing grub screws?

That would be pretty nifty.

Edit: I guess not much chance then lol...guess I will have to model one up in NX12 and get it printed myself. :thumbup:

debolestis, any chance of a Warthog grip shell? I'm wanting to transfer the guts of my Warthog grip to something with a lot less weight.

Maybe an old F-22 pro or F-16 FLCS stick would work for this? I know they're the same basic shape, but not sure if the size is the same so that all the warthog internals would fit.

edit: Just realized, the paddle would probably be an issue. Ah well.

Paddle style Warthog (stick*) for F16FLCS, F22 PRO:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/D9SZS78EP/left-hand-paddle-lever-for-cougar-flcs-and-f22?optionId=63427520

* Real A-10 Warthog grip don't have paddle attached to grip.

Maybe an old F-22 pro or F-16 FLCS stick would work for this? I know they're the same basic shape, but not sure if the size is the same so that all the warthog internals would fit.

 

edit: Just realized, the paddle would probably be an issue. Ah well.

Yeah, the biggest issue I found when I pulled apart an F-22 grip, and a Warthog, is the difference in switches. It would take some pretty extensive dremeling, and I’m not too comfortable with that.

That’s why I was wondering if a replica of the existing Warthog could/has been done.

Finished mating an F-22 Pro grip to my MS FFB2 with debolestis' excellent parts. I mainly used this post as a guide for the wiring and code: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=152723.

To remove the software deadzone, I also tapped the X/Y pots and ran them through the Teensy 2.0. I had a ton of jitter on the output at first, but I found some smoothing code on the arduino site that averages the analogReads which got rid of it. I also lost a bit of range at the extreme ends of travel. But the lack of sw deadzone is so great! Much more precision near the center.

Here's the modified code I used:

/* USB FLCS Grip
    You must select Joystick from the "Tools > USB Type" menu
 */
  
 // Buttons are muxed into shift registers, use the SPI protocol to read them
 #include <SPI.h>
  
 const int slaveSelectPin = 0;
  
 unsigned int buttonInputs1;   // data read from SPI
 unsigned int buttonInputs2;
 unsigned int buttonInputs3;

 // Define the number of samples to keep track of. The higher the number, the
 // more the readings will be smoothed, but the slower the output will respond to
 // the input. Using a constant rather than a normal variable lets us use this
 // value to determine the size of the readings array.
 const int numReadings = 35;
 
 int readIndex = 0;                // the index of the current reading
 int x_readings[numReadings];      // the readings from the analog input
 int x_total = 0;                  // the running total
 int x_average = 0;                // the average
 int y_readings[numReadings];      // the readings from the analog input
 int y_total = 0;                  // the running total
 int y_average = 0;                // the average
  
 // Use some macros to clean things up
 #define S3   !(buttonInputs1 & 0x80)    /* Pinky Switch */
 #define TG1  !(buttonInputs1 & 0x40)    /* Trigger 1 */
 #define TG2  !(buttonInputs1 & 0x20)    /* Trigger 2 */
 #define S1   !(buttonInputs1 & 0x10)    /* Nose Wheel Steering */
 #define S4   !(buttonInputs1 & 0x08)    /* Paddle Switch */
 #define S2   !(buttonInputs1 & 0x04)    /* Pickle */
  
 #define H1D  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x80)    /* Trim */
 #define H1R  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x40)
 #define H1U  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x20)
 #define H1L  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x10)
 #define H4U  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x08)    /* CMS */
 #define H4L  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x04)
 #define H4D  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x02)
 #define H4R  !(buttonInputs2 & 0x01)
  
 #define H3D  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x80)    /* DMS */
 #define H3R  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x40)
 #define H3U  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x20)
 #define H3L  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x10)
 #define H2D  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x08)    /* TMS */
 #define H2R  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x04)
 #define H2U  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x02)
 #define H2L  !(buttonInputs3 & 0x01)
  
 // setup() runs once on boot
 void setup() {
   // set the slaveSelectPin as an output:
   pinMode (slaveSelectPin, OUTPUT);
   // start the SPI library:
   SPI.begin();
   // configure the joystick to manual send mode.  This gives precise
   // control over when the computer receives updates, but it does
   // require you to manually call Joystick.send_now().
   Joystick.useManualSend(true);

   // initialize all the readings to 0:
   for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++) {
     x_readings[thisReading] = 0;
     y_readings[thisReading] = 0;
   }
 }
  
  
 // loop() runs for as long as power is applied
 void loop() {
   // take the SS pin low to select the chip
   digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,LOW);
   // send a value of 0 to read the SPI bytes
   buttonInputs1 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
   buttonInputs2 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
   buttonInputs3 = SPI.transfer(0x00);
   // take the SS pin high to de-select the chip:
   digitalWrite(slaveSelectPin,HIGH); 
  
   // Write to joystick buttons
   Joystick.button(1,  TG1);
   Joystick.button(2,  S2);
   Joystick.button(3,  S3);
   Joystick.button(4,  S4);
   Joystick.button(5,  S1);
   Joystick.button(6,  TG2);
   Joystick.button(7,  H2U);
   Joystick.button(8,  H2R);
   Joystick.button(9,  H2D);
   Joystick.button(10, H2L);
   Joystick.button(11, H3U);
   Joystick.button(12, H3R);
   Joystick.button(13, H3D);
   Joystick.button(14, H3L);
   Joystick.button(15, H4U);
   Joystick.button(16, H4R);
   Joystick.button(17, H4D);
   Joystick.button(18, H4L);
  
   // Determine Joystick Hat Position
   int angle = -1;
  
   if (H1U) {
     if (H1R) {
       angle = 45;
     } else if (H1L) {
       angle = 315;
     } else {
       angle = 0;
     }
   } else if (H1D) {
     if (H1R) {
       angle = 135;
     } else if (H1L) {
       angle = 225;
     } else {
       angle = 180;
     }
   } else if (H1R) {
     angle = 90;
   } else if (H1L) {
     angle = 270;
   }
   Joystick.hat(angle);
   
   // *** ANALOG & SMOOTHING ***
   x_total = x_total - x_readings[readIndex];
   x_readings[readIndex] = analogRead(0);
   x_total = x_total + x_readings[readIndex];
   x_average = x_total / numReadings;
   Joystick.X(x_average);
   
   y_total = y_total - y_readings[readIndex];
   y_readings[readIndex] = analogRead(3);
   y_total = y_total + y_readings[readIndex];  
   y_average = y_total / numReadings;
   Joystick.Y(y_average);

   readIndex = readIndex + 1;
   if (readIndex >= numReadings) {
     readIndex = 0;
   }
  
   // Because setup configured the Joystick manual send,
   // the computer does not see any of the changes yet.
   // This send_now() transmits everything all at once.
   Joystick.send_now();
 }

And the final results:

Extra pics:

I didn't bother with screwing in the connectors for either end, and just did a friction fit with heatshrink. Can't say I enjoyed soldering all those wires and connectors but it was well worth it. So nice to have that many buttons now. I also really didn't think an extension would make that much of a difference, but it's so much better for precision and immersion in centre stick planes. The length is perfect with the resistor motor boost mod. I have to turn down the shake in the Tomcat because it's far too violent at 100! Thanks debolestis for your work! :thumbup:

Has anyone replaced the DMS on a Warthog stick with the Debolelstis DMS? If so, how did you remove the Warthog DMS?

Thanks

Has anyone replaced the DMS on a Warthog stick with the Debolelstis DMS? If so, how did you remove the Warthog DMS?

 

 

Thanks

Please see page 3 of this thread.

Please see page 3 of this thread.

Thank you sir! The castle DMS is fantastic! Love the feel.

Hi, any chance you can do the 2 pins holding the TM Warthog gimbal in place as well?

I would be interested in ordering the gimbal (also known as 'Articulation Sphere') together with the two pins holding it.

Having sanded both of them, I now have small yaw play that I'd like to get rid of...

Thank you sir! The castle DMS is fantastic! Love the feel.

 

Wicked, looking at the pics on pg 3 of the thread and it seems the DMS is just removed by pulling it off and pushing on the replacement?

I have one of Debs castle hats coming also and was wondering based on that if I actually needed to disassemble my WH stick, or can I just pull the old DMS hat off and replace it?

Wicked, looking at the pics on pg 3 of the thread and it seems the DMS is just removed by pulling it off and pushing on the replacement?

I have one of Debs castle hats coming also and was wondering based on that if I actually needed to disassemble my WH stick, or can I just pull the old DMS hat off and replace it?

Maybe you can just pull it but it takes a lot of force. Maybe something can be broken that way, I cannot tell for sure. That is why I disassembled the grip.

The actual DMS cap that your thumb rests on is held by friction. I took the entire switch out, unscrewed the central shaft from the spring retainer on the back side of the switch. Then I removed the DMS and shaft completely and used tweezers to separate the cap from the shaft. It takes a good amount of pressure and you make break off the retainer if you simply force it off without disassembly.

Rgr - thanks guys. Looks like dissassembly will be the way to go.

Last time one of the little trigger springs flew out - wat a PITA lol.

This was actually while I was swapping out to one of Debs printed necks for the WH stick in prep for use on a force sense base - but upon reassembly there was quite a bit of slop/play in the grip iteslf on the mounting shaft so totally unusable. Took it back out again and resigned myself to maybe wrap it in aluminium tape or something if and when my actual OEM neck snaps....will deal with it at the time. But it was not the correct dimensions at the end of the day.

Rgr - thanks guys. Looks like dissassembly will be the way to go.

 

Last time one of the little trigger springs flew out - wat a PITA lol.

This was actually while I was swapping out to one of Debs printed necks for the WH stick in prep for use on a force sense base - but upon reassembly there was quite a bit of slop/play in the grip iteslf on the mounting shaft so totally unusable. Took it back out again and resigned myself to maybe wrap it in aluminium tape or something if and when my actual OEM neck snaps....will deal with it at the time. But it was not the correct dimensions at the end of the day.

I am sorry to hear this. I can print a new tailpiece for you myself. Just send me a message. I don't know why this happens, maybe there is tolerance problem with TM or Shapeways.

I am sorry to hear this. I can print a new tailpiece for you myself. Just send me a message. I don't know why this happens, maybe there is tolerance problem with TM or Shapeways.

Thanks man! What I can do is take some accurate measurements with some digital calipers next week and let you know how it looks, see if it is indeed a printing issue.

Yea I was kinda bummed - and a little nervous unplugging that lead again and bending that terminal in half again to pass through the hole!

Thanks man! What I can do is take some accurate measurements with some digital calipers next week and let you know how it looks, see if it is indeed a printing issue.

Yea I was kinda bummed - and a little nervous unplugging that lead again and bending that terminal in half again to pass through the hole!

That terminal is ground connection. Stick can probably work without it. But I had to make the hole in tailpiece narower to increase the strenght of plastic part.

I am sorry to hear this. I can print a new tailpiece for you myself. Just send me a message. I don't know why this happens, maybe there is tolerance problem with TM or Shapeways.

Sent through a PM with the dimensions of that tailpiece a while ago - are you still able to print me a version that fits correctly?

debolestis, just wanted to ask again about the possibility of a Warthog grip shell.

Sent through a PM with the dimensions of that tailpiece a while ago - are you still able to print me a version that fits correctly?

I apologize, I just forgot. Here are dimensions that you had measured:

Height - 46.65 mm

Wide Diameter - 18.92 mm

Narrow Diameter - 16.00 mm

Attach holes - 3.80 mm

What I have:

Height - 46.5 mm

Wide Diameter - 19.00 mm

Narrow Diameter - 16.00 mm

Attach holes - 4.00 mm

Wide diameter and height doesn't matter.

Attach holes. You measured 3.80 mm, and I have 4.00 mm. Maybe that is the problem, but I don't think so. Holes on Shapeways' prints are usually a bit narrower from uploaded 3D model.

Can you also measure printed part that you have? Maybe there is a problem.

debolestis, just wanted to ask again about the possibility of a Warthog grip shell.

I am sorry, but I just have no time for that right now.

Sorry

Can you also measure printed part that you have? Maybe there is a problem.

Aah those dimensions were of the printed part dude..

Aah those dimensions were of the printed part dude..

Can you measure original then?

I also managed to find T-50 grip. I really like that it is made of plastic, which seems to be well manufactured and light. I don't like the hats, and maybe lever has too much of a travel if it is used only as a switch.

I can maybe add more switches, like 5way Alps. I use Mmjoy2 controller so I can do that.