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Best way to transition from Cruise to Hover?


Fakum

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All good stuff! Many thanks again! I went from just trying to figure out how to go from a high speed cruise to a hove in short time and distance to hashing over other relevant procedures. i have certainly picked up quite a bit of useful info. I will add that I do enable bank and pitch initially, and then once on coarse, I enable heading hold. If I am really ambitious, I only keep bank on so I can get the nose down fast and accelerate. I also disable pitch when I am negotiating steep terrain. Last night I spent a bit of time watching the videos 1st part, where he is cruising and then makes an abrupt right turn to a nice hover. Ehhh, I didn't quite achieve that, but i know it takes a lot of practice. At least now I understand what I can actually do,,

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After many, many discussions about that topic, I've come to the conclusion that RL Russian pilots hardly ever use FD.

 

Also, the Russian doctrine of using trim is to progressively trim to a new attitude by adjusting the stick, clicking trim, adjusting some more, clicking trim, and so on and so forth, until the chopper is at the desired heading, attitude and/or altitude.

 

I've seen this mentioned before, but the only source I've seen people point to is this cockpit video:

 

 

I'm interested to know if this is actually Russian doctrine (and if so, if there's a source to back it up), or whether it's just this pilot's preference and people are extrapolating it to apply to all pilots.

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I've seen this mentioned before, but the only source I've seen people point to is this cockpit video:

 

 

I'm interested to know if this is actually Russian doctrine (and if so, if there's a source to back it up), or whether it's just this pilot's preference and people are extrapolating it to apply to all pilots.

 

There's another series of very good videos on Russian military hardware - search for "Военная приемка" on YouTube.

 

This one in particular (

) has a lot of Ka-52 in-cockpit shots, and you'll hear the pilot is constantly hitting that trimmer button! :)

 

(I don't understand a single word of Russian, but the footage alone in these Военная приемка (stands for Military Acceptance) clips is just amazing. They have a lot of stuff from Syria in those videos, too.

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I've seen this mentioned before, but the only source I've seen people point to is this cockpit video: [...]

 

There are not many RL Ka-50 videos to go about.

 

As for the Mi-8/Mi-17, a quick collection gathered from YouTube:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were some other videos with lots of trim clicks that I clearly remember from this forum, but I couldn't find them right now.

 

To be fair, I also found some vids with very, very few or no trim sounds at all, but that might also have to do with the quality of the audio recording (although the sound does seem to be very loud in the real aircraft).

 

Edit: And what rrohde said :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
and you'll hear the pilot is constantly hitting that trimmer button! :)

.

 

In most aircraft with a mag trim you will generally find yourself hitting it every few seconds. It is purely there to set a datum for the aircraft, however, air being the unstable medium that it is, will disrupt the aircraft from that datum and will need reset and re-trimmed with another click...or you can be lazy and couple it up using the upper modes of the autopilot, so people will tend to hear regular clicks coming from the cyclic.

 

Also, in reality you would be rather foolish to depress the mag trim and manoeuvre the aircraft whilst holding the trim button, you're opening yourself up to a whole world of problems. You fly through the trim forces and reset the trim to the correct attitude, but it is poor practice to trim the aircraft in the roll axis whilst turning, pitch trim in the turn is fine though.

 

But at the end of the day this is just a game so do what you want, nobody is able to correctly simulate helicopter flight dynamics, not even our £multi-million level D simulators, so you just do whatever you need to do to pop those pixels where you want them.

Real pilots stop first, then land. Runways are for models and wings are for fairies.

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Also, in reality you would be rather foolish to depress the mag trim and manoeuvre the aircraft whilst holding the trim button, you're opening yourself up to a whole world of problems.

 

How so, and what problems?

 

You fly through the trim forces and reset the trim to the correct attitude, but it is poor practice to trim the aircraft in the roll axis whilst turning, pitch trim in the turn is fine though.

 

How would you trim pitch, but not roll, while turning?

 

But at the end of the day this is just a game so do what you want, nobody is able to correctly simulate helicopter flight dynamics, not even our £multi-million level D simulators, so you just do whatever you need to do to pop those pixels where you want them.

 

That we can definitely agree on. :thumbup:

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Based on the fact that the AP will saturate its authority in the respective channel if you maneuver without holding the trim button I recommend you maneuver while holding the trim button. Otherwise the trim press will dump a saturated channel causing a physical upset in that axis every time.

 

I realize that you disable the artificial feel with the button held but it's a small price to pay to not develop saturated AP input. As the DCS module's FCS is currently modeled (not convinced it's the correct one) it is demonstratively the best way to fly, especially with a spring-type conventional joystick.

 

You should however always fly with all 3 stability channels engaged, outside situations of particular damage or failures or training for such events.

 

===

 

To the original question transition from forward flight to hover is primarily an energy dissipation by using pitch to replace reduced collective. In forward flight with no other changes decreasing collective will cause a descent. Alternatively aft cyclic will cause a climb. To come to a stationary hover from forward flight at constant altitude is a balancing act between reduced collective and aft cyclic. If done correctly the lift lost from collective reduction is canceled by the increased lift from pitch up. The pilot must consider the cyclic an equal altitude adjustment as the collective.

 

The absolute minimum time and distance for this maneuver occurs when collective is set minimum and all increased lift comes from nose up pitch. It is impossible to complete the maneuver in less time. Pitching up must not be rushed or the helicopter will climb.

 

Included is a track of level deceleration. Radio altimeter warning was set at 50m, "FD" on with altitude channel and trimmed for guidance for 55m. The goal is to decelerate from >200km/h to <10km/h within +-5m as quickly as practical.

 

From high speed the collective is brought back somewhat aggressively over 2-5 seconds. If a climb develops halt cyclic travel and continue reducing collective. If a dive develops halt collective travel and continue aft cyclic. Aim for +-0.5m/s vertical speed. Aim is to reach about +20 max +25 pitch on the HUD and waiting for 130 km/h airspeed. At 130 collective motion is reversed (minimum about 1/3rd, floored loses yaw control below this speed) and begins to increase again slightly. Pitch will have decayed and aft pressure is needed to maintain +15. As speed reduces below 90 km/h collective is added strongly as needed. At 50km/h the vector line appears on the HUD, pitch is maintained +15 to +10. As the line reduces to 1/3 to 1/4 maximum length set the pitch at +5 to +6 and trim. Do not allow pitch to reduce below +5 or helicopter will cease deceleration.

 

Throughout the maneuver watch the round VSI dial (seriously you may want to stare at it a few tries), HUD pitch ladder, and Shkval or HUD speed indicators. Minor pedal will be needed on collective reduction and significant to full pedal will be needed on reapplication below 130 km/h. The limiting factor is directional control as nose will want to yaw right at low collective and speed with high pitch. The less the nose is allowed to yaw right the more aggressive the collective reduction may be.

 

Once pitch is +20 hold it there and control VS with collective. There are two trends toward needing more collective, speed below 130 losing efficiency and below about 20 where you lose translational lift. The takeaway is you'll be adding more and more collective all the way to 0 speed. The tendency is to be complacent and allow a sink in the last few tens of speed.

Ka50deccelerate.zip

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Many good tips here! :thumbup:

 

I use default trimmer mode and just hold the trim button in while i'm changing direction. When I have set a new direction I just let go of the trim.

 

Never try to land in the same direction as the wind blows, you will get in a wortex easy that way. Always try to land straight towards the wind direction. Chimneys is a good wind direction indicator, make note of them while you fly.

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Don't be to scared to take control of these coppers, you control it, don't let it control you.

 

Fly the choppers around for it bit out of combat, and really give it to her, learn to fly manually more often, autopilot will make you soft:), when things get real....

 

2012_03_01_rider_pulls_bit_too_strongly_sm_267x234.JPG

 

Practice flying on that edge, so you know if you have to get out of doge (igla, Stinger, AAA), you can and know what is possible with this weapon!

 

Here is a quick flight I did while back, testing Gs, for this chart HERE.

 

Keep an eye on that G meter, to see how close to the limit your getting, after a bit you will know by feel/sight that edge.

 

 

 

 

and one that is just amazing, this is what this chopper in sim can really do!! (Not Mine, I wish:music_whistling:)

 


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i use a technique to "slide" the ship to a stop speed to set up auto hover. Basically if traveling at cruise, simply depress trim and hold. using cyclic and rudder, turn left to slide the ship while also lowering collective to maintain alt. Speed will drop quickly, thus can then turn back to original vector and use collective to continue to maintain height and when under 18 kps, release trim to lock, and click auto hover to stabilize. done.

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Ok,, so for starters, I watched that video, I would certainly like to achieve that level of skill. I have also read its associated post. There are a couple of fundamental questions that I do not have answers for. Maybe you guys do? I am wondering what the state of his augmentation systems are during his flight? Bank/Pitch/Heading/Altitude? I am also wondering if he set any custom curves for his HOTAS? How about you guys?

 

Director mode on, linear (default) curves.

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I turn off HeadingAP and AltAP. I then either execute a "nose forward and up" controlled stop, or a "nose turn and pull" immediate sliding stop. In both cases, the important point of my method is that I pump the collective. Fully lower the collective first until you just start to lose altitude (1-2sec), then pull your maneuver and pump the collective in an anti-rhythmic oscillation to maintain altitude. Lowering the collective helps you to bleed energy, while pumping the collective "blows air" in the direction you're trying to stop. From cruise I'll typically use the full range of the collective if I'm initiating a fast deceleration. This can take you from 270 to 0 in about 3-5sec. If you look at it as quickly stopping in front of brick wall using the same method you would use to halt a fast descent toward the ground, it helps to understand it. That's not an easy, or entirely logical, explanation. I wish I had a better one.

It's a good thing that this is Early Access and we've all volunteered to help test and enhance this work in progress... despite the frustrations inherent in the task with even the simplest of software... otherwise people might not understand that this incredibly complex unfinished module is unfinished. /light-hearted sarcasm

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None of the following is particularly relevant to the game, this is info in response to questions regarding real aircraft operation, so if you're after Black Shark control tips, just skip this post.

 

How so, and what problems?

 

Basically, by depressing the mag trim you are removing the stability system from the aircraft and this can cause issues with the parallel actuators in the control run. If, for example, you were straight and level with all the control servos in that state, then you hit the mag trim and adjust your attitude to something vastly different, then release the mag trim, the actuators are still in the position they were in for straight and level, so the aircraft will be fighting you and itself to try and adjust and this can result in the actuators hitting against their control stops and you lose that bit of control movement. It is easier to just fly through the trim forces, select your new attitude then click the trim button again.

 

 

 

How would you trim pitch, but not roll, while turning?

 

A lot of aircraft have two trim types. The magnetic trim, the big clicky button, to quickly set the new datum and also a beep trim on a coolie hat. The beep trim allows fine trim in pitch and roll separately or together. So if you are in a sustained turn and the pitch control forces are uncomfortably high, you can use the beep trim to nudge to nose down to adopt a level attitude without adjusting the roll trim.

 

The reason it is unwise to trim in roll, is that in the event of an emergency you can easily find yourself dealing with quite a few issues at once which can result in a reduction of your capacity, so the last thing you want to be doing is fight an aircraft that is trimmed to be in a left turn, for example. If it all hits the fan, you want to be able to neutralise the cyclic and the aircraft will fly level-ish with no stick forces, so you can focus on whatever the problems are. Even more important if you are flying IMC, which can obviously lead to disorientation and you definitely don't want the aircraft to be trimmed for anything but level flight.

 

Also, as a side note for anyone who partakes in low level flying, trim the aircraft for a slight nose up attitude and just hold the cyclic forward, so that should anything happen, the aircraft will be trimmed to fly away from all that hard stuff that will kill you very quickly.

 

For visual help, I've linked a random image of a Eurocopter cyclic (same one that is in almost every Eurocopter/Airbus) you'll see the coolie hat with 'beep trim' labelled beneath it and the mag trim with 'FTR' (Force Trim Release) labelled above it. https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3800/9013728426_07aa262b68_b.jpg

 

 

 

That we can definitely agree on. :thumbup:

 

Indeed, we have had people appear at my work with a logbook with a few thousand hours on helicopters looking for a job...only to find out their hours are on a flight sim and that they thought it was realistic and their hours were valid :doh:

 

A simulator can never replicate that feeling as you are coming down an instrument approach and you are on minima and you're not sure if you're going to get home tonight or end up diverting. It can't replicate the noise, vibration, stresses, weather effects, turbulence, having multiple radios going at once, having people in the back who are relying on you to get them home etc.


Edited by Alpha-87
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None of the following is particularly relevant to the game, this is info in response to questions regarding real aircraft operation, so if you're after Black Shark control tips, just skip this post.

 

Lots of interesting information, thanks a lot!

 

Basically, by depressing the mag trim you are removing the stability system from the aircraft [...]

 

I have to jump in at this point. Does this refer to the Ka-50?

 

AFAIK, the Ka-50's SAS will still work with the magnetic trim button depressed, and only the autopilot channels will be removed from the equation, so to speak.

 

 

[...] and this can cause issues with the parallel actuators in the control run. If, for example, you were straight and level with all the control servos in that state, then you hit the mag trim and adjust your attitude to something vastly different, then release the mag trim, the actuators are still in the position they were in for straight and level, so the aircraft will be fighting you and itself to try and adjust and this can result in the actuators hitting against their control stops and you lose that bit of control movement.

 

I must admit that I have only a very superficial idea of how the trim forces and actuators work in a real helicopter. I haven't heard of this potential problem before, and I was under the impression that most western pilots would indeed keep the mag trim depressed throughout a maneuver. Although that doesn't necessarily mean that they'd end up with a vast deflection from the previously trimmed position, if they go from level flight, through a turn, back to level flight, the cyclic position would probably be pretty close to where it was before the maneuver.

 

It is easier to just fly through the trim forces, select your new attitude then click the trim button again.

 

That's definitely very interesting to know!

 

With the Ka-50, though, I'd say this strongly depends on the SAS channels and the AP modes; with Flight Director Off and Heading, Pitch and Bank hold engaged, simply deflecting the cyclic without using the trim would lead to the aircraft actively trying to maintain the last trimmed parameters, so the pilot would have to overcome both the physical trim force and the aircraft's control authority. As an added downside, non-FFB sticks that are self-centering might provide a spike caused by their current deflection as the trim button is pressed, depending on the trimmer mode (Central Position Trimmer Mode should alleviate this problem, but locks the pilot out of the controls until they're returned to center).

 

A lot of aircraft have two trim types. The magnetic trim, the big clicky button, to quickly set the new datum and also a beep trim on a coolie hat. [...]

 

We have this in the Gazelle. :smartass:

 

So in this regard you were referring to RL helicopters, not the Black Shark, I assume?

 

The reason it is unwise to trim in roll, is that in the event of an emergency you can easily find yourself dealing with quite a few issues at once which can result in a reduction of your capacity, [...]

 

Okay, that makes a lot of sense, just like the nose up trim for low level flight! :thumbup:

 

Indeed, we have had people appear at my work with a logbook with a few thousand hours on helicopters looking for a job...only to find out their hours are on a flight sim and that they thought it was realistic and their hours were valid :doh:

 

I'd certainly be interested to know how I would do in a real helicopter, with hundreds of hours in the DCS Ka-50 and UH-1H each, and also some time in Mi-8 and SA-342. But only with a qualified instructor ready to save our collective butts in case (or rather: as soon as) I screw up. :D

 

Those sim dudes showing up for real world flying, I hope they were only joking about it.

 

It can't replicate the noise, vibration, stresses, weather effects, turbulence, having multiple radios going at once, having people in the back who are relying on you to get them home etc.

 

I won't presume to know what it's like to fly the real thing, but I think sims like DCS can do a great job of simulating several of these factors to the point that the stress levels are actually quite real indeed, especially in a busy MP environment with lots of stuff going on and people relying on each other to get their jobs done or the mission will be a complete failure. :thumbup:

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Lots of interesting information, thanks a lot!

 

No worries, happy to answer any real aviation queries from anyone, but when it comes to how the sim works, I'm definitely not the guy to be asking.

 

I have to jump in at this point. Does this refer to the Ka-50?

 

AFAIK, the Ka-50's SAS will still work with the magnetic trim button depressed, and only the autopilot channels will be removed from the equation, so to speak.

 

No, this is purely real world stuff and the differences between AFCS/SAS and Coupled Upper modes will vary between types. Some will totally remove the Stability systems with the mag trim, most will keep them in but at a degraded state since you are removing the Force Trim actuators.

 

 

I must admit that I have only a very superficial idea of how the trim forces and actuators work in a real helicopter. I haven't heard of this potential problem before, and I was under the impression that most western pilots would indeed keep the mag trim depressed throughout a maneuver. Although that doesn't necessarily mean that they'd end up with a vast deflection from the previously trimmed position, if they go from level flight, through a turn, back to level flight, the cyclic position would probably be pretty close to where it was before the maneuver.

 

In our operation (UK Offshore Oil & Gas stuff to the Rigs out at sea) we are not permitted to hold the mag trim down whilst we fly, but quite often we are in IMC flying IFR in very poor weather. Our weather limits are extremely low, so removing part of the stability system is a huge no-no.

 

 

That's definitely very interesting to know!

 

With the Ka-50, though, I'd say this strongly depends on the SAS channels and the AP modes; with Flight Director Off and Heading, Pitch and Bank hold engaged, simply deflecting the cyclic without using the trim would lead to the aircraft actively trying to maintain the last trimmed parameters, so the pilot would have to overcome both the physical trim force and the aircraft's control authority. As an added downside, non-FFB sticks that are self-centering might provide a spike caused by their current deflection as the trim button is pressed, depending on the trimmer mode (Central Position Trimmer Mode should alleviate this problem, but locks the pilot out of the controls until they're returned to center).

 

Yep, again these things will vary from type to type, when I was on the EC135 the Level D sim could sometimes back flip when the mag switch was pressed. So that shows how hard it can be to properly replicate the way trim works.

 

 

We have this in the Gazelle. :smartass:

 

So in this regard you were referring to RL helicopters, not the Black Shark, I assume?

 

 

 

Yeah, again more of a general reference to real aircraft, also the Gazelle is the great grandfather of most of Eurocopter/Airbus' products so a lot of the items in a Gazelle have been carried forward and are recognisable even in their latest aircraft.

 

 

I'd certainly be interested to know how I would do in a real helicopter, with hundreds of hours in the DCS Ka-50 and UH-1H each, and also some time in Mi-8 and SA-342. But only with a qualified instructor ready to save our collective butts in case (or rather: as soon as) I screw up. :D

 

Those sim dudes showing up for real world flying, I hope they were only joking about it.

 

 

Unfortunately, they were very serious. I'm sure you would do fine in a real aircraft, as would most people on here, if you know what to expect but react to what you see then you shouldn't be surprised if you manage to cope.

 

I won't presume to know what it's like to fly the real thing, but I think sims like DCS can do a great job of simulating several of these factors to the point that the stress levels are actually quite real indeed, especially in a busy MP environment with lots of stuff going on and people relying on each other to get their jobs done or the mission will be a complete failure. :thumbup:

 

Yeah, it has its place, but you can always pause it and hit the reset button and nobody is actually in any danger, but I get your point nonetheless.


Edited by Alpha-87

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Also, in reality you would be rather foolish to depress the mag trim and manoeuvre the aircraft whilst holding the trim button, you're opening yourself up to a whole world of problems. You fly through the trim forces and reset the trim to the correct attitude, but it is poor practice to trim the aircraft in the roll axis whilst turning, pitch trim in the turn is fine though.

 

The KA-50 manual talks a lot about exactly "Press and hold Trim, do the adjustment and then release the trim button" and different modes and for different purposes, separated from "press trim multiple time in short period until you are as you want".

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AFAIK, the Ka-50's SAS will still work with the magnetic trim button depressed, and only the autopilot channels will be removed from the equation, so to speak.

 

When you press the trim button in KA-50, you will disable temporarily the AP channels authority and you will only have a channels input dampening (SAS). Once you release the trim button, the current KA-50 attitude is stored to the computer memory as in 3D space, and AP channel authority is returned.

 

If you disable the AP channels, you will lose the AP authority as the dampening (SAS).

If you enable the "Flight Director" mode, then you will be flying just like while pressing the trim button, but without requirement to do so. In "FD" mode you use trim then to program the altitude and speed, without attitude programming.

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If you enable the "Flight Director" mode, then you will be flying just like while pressing the trim button, but without requirement to do so.

 

This isn't entirely accurate. A helicopter's force trim is essentially a system of "holding" the cockpit controls at their current position. Obviously, it lets the pilot push against the magnetics, hydraulics, or springs (whatever the mechanism is in the given helicopter) to still provide further inputs, but generally it assists the pilot in keeping the physical controls from drifting. When the pilot releases the "trim" button (which commands the force trim to release the controls when held down) the force trim reapplies at the current position until interrupted again. This is a mechanical system that is entirely separate from the flight computer and SAS/Autopilot channels.

 

However, the AP channels do "listen" to the trim button's on/off position, which is why Fri13's statement is in fact mostly accurate, however it's important to note that in "Flight Director" mode, you still have force trim. You can still trim the helicopter for either a hover, or high-speed flight (so you don't have to have your gaming stick held forward), but like Fri13 said the SAS keeps the helicopter from being all squirrelly. But since FD mode blocks the AP channels from keeping the helicopter rock solid at the given pitch, roll, and yaw values, you will still need to provide small fine inputs to maintain attitude.

 

Fri13, if this is essentially what you were saying, and I interpreted it wrong, I apologize. :)

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Need to add one thing here to that I fly with FF stick, so trimming is like in real one. Release a trim button and stick gets locked to that position with increased centering force of moving away from current center.

 

Enabling FD or holding trim, stick is free to move with a tiny dampening effect.

 

This makes more sense as it allows that "hands free" flight without requiring to reset trim or such.

 

Same is with Su-27 as stick position moves based trimmed position.

 

It really becomes a second nature quickly to click trim, and press and hold it in different situations as stick moves as should.

 

Like disabling a pitch channel AP makes stick Y axis without force but keeps X axis forces going. Easy to detect when something happens as you feel the force in hand when flying in edge of flight envelope.

 

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Need to add one thing here to that I fly with FF stick, so trimming is like in real one. Release a trim button and stick gets locked to that position with increased centering force of moving away from current center.

 

Enabling FD or holding trim, stick is free to move with a tiny dampening effect.

 

This makes more sense as it allows that "hands free" flight without requiring to reset trim or such.

 

Same is with Su-27 as stick position moves based trimmed position.

 

It really becomes a second nature quickly to click trim, and press and hold it in different situations as stick moves as should.

 

Like disabling a pitch channel AP makes stick Y axis without force but keeps X axis forces going. Easy to detect when something happens as you feel the force in hand when flying in edge of flight envelope.

 

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I usually post from my phone so please excuse any typos, inappropriate punctuation and capitalization, missing words and general lack of cohesion and sense in my posts.....

In general this is how it also works with the "without spring and FFB" option and high enough friction to keep the stick in place where you left it (but low enough not to degrade feeling).

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In general this is how it also works with the "without spring and FFB" option and high enough friction to keep the stick in place where you left it (but low enough not to degrade feeling).
Yes, that is second best thing but it is without force feedback (FF, not FFB) and lower some of the experience and output as you can't grab and move and release and let stick get back.

 

Why if I would now upgrade one other HOTAS that is requirement as you mention about friction stick.

 

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... force feedback (FF, not FFB)...

To do a little nitpicking, FFB is the generaly accepted abbreviation for it, also used in the DCS settings, never seen only FF. But no hard feelings ;-)

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Helicopters and Viggen

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To do a little nitpicking, FFB is the generaly accepted abbreviation for it, also used in the DCS settings, never seen only FF. But no hard feelings ;-)
FF has been the wording since it became mainstream by Microsoft sidewinder line to Vista time ;-)

 

And it is a acronym for Force Feedback, not a "Force Feed Back" or "Force FeedBack" ;)

 

Although, there was as well acronym as FF2 to mean updated tech.

 

But sure, you see the wrong FFB acronym sometimes used... Especially here.

 

 

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I usually post from my phone so please excuse any typos, inappropriate punctuation and capitalization, missing words and general lack of cohesion and sense in my posts.....

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Basically, by depressing the mag trim you are removing the stability system from the aircraft

 

Ka-50 trim button removes the autopilot hold input only. The stability input remains as long as the channel button is lit. The helicopter will respond differently to control inputs with the channel buttons off vice simply holding down the trim button. Trim button held retains the stability behavior of the engaged channels.

 

If, for example, you were straight and level with all the control servos in that state, then you hit the mag trim and adjust your attitude to something vastly different, then release the mag trim, the actuators are still in the position they were in for straight and level

 

This is not the case in DCS. When you press the trim button all AP input is driven to the center of its range of motion. This can be noticed by gently leaning on the cyclic and noticing that the AP completely cancels the pilot's input to remain in the held attitude. If the AP input is substantially different than centered then this input will be dumped back to zero when the trim button is pressed, causing a sharp shift in total control and physical upset of the helicopter.

 

If this sounds like an awful design I agree. I bet Kamov designed a better system than is present in DCS or they need better engineers.

 

This isn't entirely accurate. A helicopter's force trim is essentially a system of "holding" the cockpit controls at their current position.

He just means that FD disables the channel holds while retaining stability function just like holding the trim button. Yes holding the button disables the artificial feel device while FD still has the artificial feel device connected (at least it should?).

 

The FD still captures speed, bank, roll, pitch, height values like the AP would but it just displays symbols on the HUD for guidance without actually moving the control surfaces.

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