VR Cockpit

I like my vkb pedals for the price so much better than the saitek ones. I’m get the gf2 w/ mcg and extension I have the wasp for my saitek yoke i like you wh setup enough I might order a wsp tm if the vkb stuff will fit it.

What did you do with the Saitek pedals?

Threw them in a corner for now. Need to get the right toe brake repaired, I believe there is a pinched wire.

I like my vkb pedals for the price so much better than the saitek ones. I’m get the gf2 w/ mcg and extension I have the wasp for my saitek yoke i like you wh setup enough I might order a wsp tm if the vkb stuff will fit it.

Agreed, Saitek pedals are pretty mediocre. My new Slaws though? Out of this world good.

One note on the VKB pedals are that they fall short if you're a a NATO guy given there are no toe brakes.

Theres a software fix for that

Theres a software fix for that

Sorry, for what?

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Toe brakes

Toe brakes

I don't see how a software update could eliminate the fact that toe brakes don't physically exist on the pedals, but I also don't really care so that's great it's worked out for you :thumbup:

Hi, it looks like you've put a lot of thought (and money!) into your sim setup. I'm slowly building my own VR cockpit and i'm trying to get an optimal setup in the small space i have available.

Till now i've just put the throttle and stick on the desk, but it's not very ergonomic, and now that i've started looking into getting an extension to use it as a center stick i need to find a solution that will work for me.

I've been thinking about getting the WSP, but i'm concerned about the height of the middle mounting.

I see you've sawed it off to get it as low as possible. If i'm not terribly wrong the warthog with a 15cm extension is 28cm from bottom of the base to the hand rest. A Gunfighter MCG pro is 31,6-34,1cm, so 3,6-6,1cm taller than the warthog. It's probably gonna be hard to mod it to get lower than you have it now (shortening the bottom part would probably require cutting and welding).

Looking at cockpit pictures of planes like the F/A-18 and F-15 the sticks seems to be quite high above the seat.

Other than that i've been looking to replace my office chair and have had a availability/price watch on pre-owned Steelcase Leap V2 for a long time. It seems like a nice chair, but it's not very common here in Norway, and shipping one from the US will add hundreds of dollars in shipping and also 25% vat on top of it all, making it too expensive to import.

Is the chair swivel any problem when using rudders? I'll get some wheel-locks/stops when i get the rudders (which are in the mail right now, i hope :D)

I've got a Jetseat KW-908 that i will mod with my own cushion to fit my new chair (when i eventually get one). The Jetseat really doesn't fit my current chair at all, and i've had to drag in a livingroom chair when i'm using it.

Also looking forward to upgrade my throttle hopefully within the next 6 months. Both the new Virpil or VKB throttles looks interesting.

Next up is getting some suitable decoration i guess :D

Hi, it looks like you've put a lot of thought (and money!) into your sim setup. I'm slowly building my own VR cockpit and i'm trying to get an optimal setup in the small space i have available.

 

Till now i've just put the throttle and stick on the desk, but it's not very ergonomic, and now that i've started looking into getting an extension to use it as a center stick i need to find a solution that will work for me.

 

I've been thinking about getting the WSP, but i'm concerned about the height of the middle mounting.

 

I see you've sawed it off to get it as low as possible. If i'm not terribly wrong the warthog with a 15cm extension is 28cm from bottom of the base to the hand rest. A Gunfighter MCG pro is 31,6-34,1cm, so 3,6-6,1cm taller than the warthog. It's probably gonna be hard to mod it to get lower than you have it now (shortening the bottom part would probably require cutting and welding).

 

Looking at cockpit pictures of planes like the F/A-18 and F-15 the sticks seems to be quite high above the seat.

 

Other than that i've been looking to replace my office chair and have had a availability/price watch on pre-owned Steelcase Leap V2 for a long time. It seems like a nice chair, but it's not very common here in Norway, and shipping one from the US will add hundreds of dollars in shipping and also 25% vat on top of it all, making it too expensive to import.

 

Is the chair swivel any problem when using rudders? I'll get some wheel-locks/stops when i get the rudders (which are in the mail right now, i hope :D)

 

I've got a Jetseat KW-908 that i will mod with my own cushion to fit my new chair (when i eventually get one). The Jetseat really doesn't fit my current chair at all, and i've had to drag in a livingroom chair when i'm using it.

 

Also looking forward to upgrade my throttle hopefully within the next 6 months. Both the new Virpil or VKB throttles looks interesting.

 

Next up is getting some suitable decoration i guess :D

You're correct, it would be impossible to get the center post any lower than it is without cutting and welding it back together -- truth be told, I've been considering doing that once my VKB with 20cm extension gets here (would take it to a local fabricator). I wouldn't say it's out of the realm of possibility at all :) With the WH and 15cm extension, the stick sits just about perfectly for me currently...about 2/3 of the stick should be above the top of your thighs, seated; at least that is what a Hornet pilot told me? I will have to wait and see how the stick sits once my VKB is installed before I take any drastic measures. Overall I am very happy with the WSP, wouldn't trade it for desk mounts any day of the week...the WSP offers significant more adjustability.

Regarding the seat swivel, I have no issues with that when using the pedals...and the Slaw's generally take a good push to move them. I do have "wheel chocks" aka door stoppers that I put behind 2 of my chair wheels to keep from sliding back when using rudder. Overall I really like the chair, even more so with the JetSeat SE on it :thumbup:

Good luck building the pit, if you have any questions come up...let me know.

Next idea :pilotfly:

I tried and hated the VR controllers in cockpit so much that I actually ended up going a different route to enable left handed cockpit functionality when necessary (or convenient). I had been wanting to get a left side mouse for a while, but kept holding out to see what type of hand tracking might come about...looks like that is a while off, so last week I picked up:

• This trackpad: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9JN5CT4055
  
• This kneeboard to hold the trackpad: http://www.mypilotstore.com/MyPilotStore/sep/10270
  

I really like the trackpad (one finger press/click = left click, two fingers press/click = right click, two fingers can scroll i.e. turn knobs, and it has a click when you press down so you can feel it)...but it felt awkward having it strapped to my leg. It's hard to explain but it felt weird and cramped trying to use it in practice. Instead I've just been sitting it flat on the desk next to my keyboard and it feels a lot better and easier to use that way. So, I had an idea this morning (excuse the elementary level sketch) of how I would take that and improve upon in...a desk mounted stand for my keyboard and 2 trackpads, inspired by the VKB desk mount teaser:

My crappy sketch:

• Allows for the "feel" of using MFD's with needing to reach my left/right hand forward to interact, except I can use my HMD to point me in the general direction with the cursor and then use my finger on the trackpad to refine where the cursor is before clicking...and I don't need to worry about blinding being able to find the right OSB button in the heat of combat the way I would with a Thrustmaster MFD setup (I feel like this would be a nightmare for me with physical MFDs, or I would constantly be peeking out the bottom of the HMD)
  
• I will be able to also use these to operate the UFC, with either my right or left hand very easily while in flight. I also won't need to take my hand off the stick if I find myself in a turn trying to punch something in to the UFC or trying to click Master Arm, Change A/G weapon, etc
  
• Also allows me the ability to realistically interact with anything on the front dash (A/G, NAV, V/STOL Mode buttons...Master Arm, Flaps On/Off, RWR Volume, Bingo Fuel Bug, etc)
  
• Can also operate in a pinch any of the side console buttons, if necessary, in flight...most of the side console stuff I need in flight in already bound to my Throttle
  
• I will use my traditional mouse for anything on the ground (i.e. start up) as it's a bit quicker for me to churn through the process that way albeit not at realistic/natural in feeling
  

I will keep the kneeboard strap (1) because I threw all the packaging away so I can't return it lol and (2) because I may start using it to hold my iPad for my kneeboard. I hate the ingame kneeboard implementation where it just pops up on your screen (and not on your pilots leg), so I might just do this instead and peak below my HMD to see.

I am going to head to my parents house to have my dad build it for me this weekend (I am not handy, at all)...any suggestions for improvement before I get started?

I have had a bet version of the touch pad for years used mainly with Mac mini when it worked I’m going to have to locate it as I ordered the leg strap was thinking of it for one of my old iPads if anything ever made use of it.it requires something firm under it to get the click feel so I’ll have to gen up a platform that matches the touch pad. I’m putting it on my left leg as I fly helos mainly and you never take your hand off the cyclic of a Huey.

Threw them in a corner for now. Need to get the right toe brake repaired, I believe there is a pinched wire.

 

 

Agreed, Saitek pedals are pretty mediocre. My new Slaws though? Out of this world good.

 

One note on the VKB pedals are that they fall short if you're a a NATO guy given there are no toe brakes.

My right toe break constantly stops, the wire is too tight and it pulls the connector from the right toe break pot off the PCB in the main unit.

My right toe break constantly stops, the wire is too tight and it pulls the connector from the right toe break pot off the PCB in the main unit.

Ah, good to know...thanks! I'll have to open it up and take a look at that, that's gotta be what's up with them.

VR Cockpit

I've decided that I am going to learn to code, solder, etc. and build myself a full on VR friendly cockpit. It won't be a 1:1 replica of any cockpit, it will be a loose interpretation of the Hornet design with some liberties taken to ensure it is transferable to the Harrier and Warthog, as well as the future Viper. The Tomcat will be a challenge as it is much different than the others in many regards, but I will work around that. Below is the Left AUX spreadsheet I put together to try to draw some parallels and ensure every modules key needs are satisfied. I will be doing this for each section that I build out during the planning phase.

I am going to start small with building the left side + left AUX combo panel that my throttle can sit in...I will then bolt this onto the left RSG where my throttle currently is on the Wheel Stand Pro. The Left AUX will be modeled mostly after that of the Hornet, as seen below.

I've already begun ordering parts, below is what I've got so far. I made the decision to go with mil-spec Cutler Hammer and Honeywell switches...the cost per switch ranges from $20-50, which hurts the wallet for sure, but I believe it will pay off with the quality tactile feel during operation.

Real RAF Tornado landing gear lever

10x On-Off-On Honeywell 1TL1-1 3-way switches, I will be using almost all 3-way switches to remain versatile for usage with all jets:

Eaton C&H MS21027K311 On-Off-(On) locking 3-way switch for Master Arm:

Honeywell 2TL6-1 On-Off-On 3-way for Landing/Taxi Lights switch:

Honeywell 12TW401-1 On-Off-On 3-way for Flaps Control Switch:

2x Cutler-Hammer Eaton 8855K77 MS21436C231 Locking 2-way switches...one will be used for Anti-Skid, the other is TBD:

10x Honeywell 11TW1-7 (On)-Off-(On) Momentary 3-way for things like CRS and HDG (Hornet style below UFC), Auto Pilot, and other switches that are magnetically controlled in the real jet.

VR Cockpit

Just picked this Eaton/C&H 8856K7 MS21027C231 up, too...it's a little beat up from real life usage, but I am going to try to clean it up a little once I get it. Was only $20 so I figured why not (versus the $55 I paid for the other one, brand new, above).

This one is a 1:1 for the Hornet Master Arm switch.

Edit: When this switch arrived the stem was bent pretty badly so it was returned for a refund.

Add a few drops of vinegar into a cup of water and clean up the toggle switch using a sponge like this

After a few minutes you will have removed the dirt. I use this trick I got of Deadman on all my used toggle switches. Works beautifully. Granted you need to check the rubber seals beforehand. Else have the toggle bat point downwards.

You should be able to give the coil on the Tornado landing gear just 12VDC and it will energize. Then you don't need to push the red button to retract the landing gear.

Nice finds on the toggle switches btw. :thumbup:

Cheers

Solo

use a little bartenders friend on a cloth and rinse and dry well

Add a few drops of vinegar into a cup of water and clean up the toggle switch using a sponge like this

 

https://i.imgur.com/iigkDXHl.jpg

 

After a few minutes you will have removed the dirt. I use this trick I got of Deadman on all my used toggle switches. Works beautifully. Granted you need to check the rubber seals beforehand. Else have the toggle bat point downwards.

 

You should be able to give the coil on the Tornado landing gear just 12VDC and it will energize. Then you don't need to push the red button to retract the landing gear.

 

Nice finds on the toggle switches btw. :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Solo

use a little bartenders friend on a cloth and rinse and dry well

Awesome, thanks guys!

And yes hans I am planning to unlock the red button with a charge on the landing gear. I have absolutely no idea how to do that, haha, but I suppose I will learn that along with everything else through the process :thumbup: If you happen to know of any resources that explain this process (i.e how to), pointing me in the right direction for that would be much appreciated.

Awesome, thanks guys!

 

And yes hans I am planning to unlock the red button with a charge on the landing gear. I have absolutely no idea how to do that, haha, but I suppose I will learn that along with everything else through the process :thumbup: If you happen to know of any resources that explain this process (i.e how to), pointing me in the right direction for that would be much appreciated.

I would energize it similar to how I energize the magnetic held switches https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3121287&postcount=148

If you run joystick controllers I would just apply 12VDC to it when you start your pit. I have a similar unit. Else you should be able to use DCS-BIOS. I haven't done it but presune you can get the radar elevation out with DCS-BIOS, then make a logice that if elevation is above 30 feet then cool is energi ed.

Cheers

I would energize it similar to how I energize the magnetic held switches https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3121287&postcount=148

 

If you run joystick controllers I would just apply 12VDC to it when you start your pit. I have a similar unit. Else you should be able to use DCS-BIOS. I haven't done it but presune you can get the radar elevation out with DCS-BIOS, then make a logice that if elevation is above 30 feet then cool is energi ed.

 

Cheers

Thanks brother, much appreciated. It is currently so far over my head that I couldn’t comprehend any of it lol but eventually once I am up to speed that will be very useful.

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You will get it one switch at a time then it all starts to fall in place

What kind of rotaries (brands and models) should I be targeting? Since I went high quality mil-spec on the toggle switches I suppose I should be doing the same for the rotaries, but not sure where to start on my research for HQ makes and models?

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I would look for Grayhill or JANCO.

I did a quick test of the Tornado landing gear lever;

This was done with only 12VDC and works nicely.

At least mine already has a fly-back diode on the panel itself so you don't have to worry about that;

Only make sure that you apply polarity correctly.

Cheers

Hans

I would look for Grayhill or JANCO.

 

 

 

I did a quick test of the Tornado landing gear lever;

 

 

 

 

 

 

This was done with only 12VDC and works nicely.

 

 

 

At least mine already has a fly-back diode on the panel itself so you don't have to worry about that;

 

 

 

 

Only make sure that you apply polarity correctly.

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Hans

Awesome man, I had no idea you had a Tornado LG too! Thanks a million for the video and the post. Cheers!

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Many of the items for the simpit build out have begun arriving...

TS100 soldering iron and some switches

Misc soldering accessories

5 of the more specialized switches up front (L to R: flaps, landing/taxi lights, Master Arm, Anti Skid) plus 10x On-Off-On and 10x (On)-Off-(On) Momentary switches piled up in the back.

Still waiting on one last switch (a duplicate of the one in the front row center).

It still didn’t feel 100% real until I ended up ordering this work bench...for a guy who has hated DIY’ing his whole life, that was a big step and it made it feel really real.

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Good luck if you need regular electronic items like wire, connectors non ac switches i use allelectronics.com their price are reasonable