3D Printed A-10 Fuel Control Panel

Sounds like a great solution. Thanks for the advice. Once I'm up and going I'll do a series of test prints to see if it's feasible and if I have the skill, time, and patience :-)

Blue73

In what application was created 3D model?

Hi Andreiru, I use Fusion360.

Cheers

John

Hi Andreiru, I use Fusion360.

 

Cheers

 

John

Hi Blue73

I will try to master the first 3D program. I have long Wanted a universal control panel for avasim DCS, IL2 BoS.

Blue73 your control panel for a10 is a great sample!

thank you very much

Blue73

What buttons in the panel, they are on aliexpress?

Cheers Andreiru, If you look at my modular panel I'd build a switch mount like that as this panel is specifically sized to push the toggle's in like plugs (no nuts required) If you want to use the same toggles there's a datasheet on the link below where I bought them from. I know they're sold in bulk on Alibaba.

https://www.jaycar.com.au/spst-ip56-heavy-duty-toggle-switch/p/ST0581

Hi Blue73

 

 

I will try to master the first 3D program. I have long Wanted a universal control panel for avasim DCS, IL2 BoS.

Blue73 your control panel for a10 is a great sample!

 

thank you very much

Thank you!

Trying to upload pics. I hope this works.

James,

Your pics uploaded fine.

I think I see what you are trying to achieve:

Print in white and then use a liquid mask used by modellers to fill the embossed areas then spray the panels black to allow for backlighting.

Will be interesting to see if that method works.

Mark

Yes that’s exactly what I’m going for. It sounds weird but I was thinking about using toothpaste to fill in the lettering and once finished painting just immerse in water or shower head or even a water pic for ur teeth. The water will dissolve the toothpaste and there u have it.....I hope. That’s what test prints are for tho:)

Well did it work?

What are the dimensions of the box?

Sry guys. Haven’t been able to get back to it yet. Between work and dealing with a family issue life’s been hectic. Probably gonna rest it out next weekend as I have everything except time. As far as the dimensions, I reversed engineered from what I knew to be the display size and reverence images. I say this because they’re probably no where near accurate but it’s my build so I’m happy with how they’re coming along. Main displays screen sizes are 6x6in. The center color display is 5x5in based on the indie here: https://www.driven-technologies.com/simulated-flat-panel-displays/simulated-military-displays/f-15-simulated-displays/f-15-multi-purpose-color-display-mpcd.html

Btw. I freaking hate spellcheck

Learning a lot with this test piece. First of all make sure u have good walls. Prime the hell out of it before u sand. Prime and sand prime and sand. Once smooth we’ll see if the paint goes on well. Hopefully more tomorrow. Oh yes I have toothpaste in the word recesses. Maybe by Wednesday we’ll tey getting it out and see if it works.

I see you printedthe void areas is there a reason my ideal I to print open boxes with several panels for the lid instead of printing the top as part of the box and work top down I rather have I with switches on narrow panel stripsthe only internal printing will be for the pcb and a opening for the usb cable all connections should be in the box and the same for the second forward box and the outside box tha matches the throttle ‘s footprint. Plan is throttle, one box match it outboard of it ans two forward oe forward of the throttle and one in front of the ob box. I hope I’m able to get the controls(switches, buttons and rotary s) in the foot print I also have the tm mcfds switches and the ones on the throttle anf tm stick. That hopefully wi cover everything.

I have a large box I was going to use for a button n box that if needed will replace the mcfds and hold max number of buttons ore toggles.

Ok back to my question did you have to print the internal part for a reason? Was it to build a stronger box or some other reason?

Hi,

I only designed it that way so I can push fit the toggle switches without the need to use the nuts. My new modular panel is more traditional and is easier to work with. Yes the extra plastic makes the unit allot more solid and switch actions sound less "tinny".

Good luck with your build!

cheers

John

I see you printedthe void areas is there a reason my ideal I to print open boxes with several panels for the lid instead of printing the top as part of the box and work top down I rather have I with switches on narrow panel stripsthe only internal printing will be for the pcb and a opening for the usb cable all connections should be in the box and the same for the second forward box and the outside box tha matches the throttle ‘s footprint. Plan is throttle, one box match it outboard of it ans two forward oe forward of the throttle and one in front of the ob box. I hope I’m able to get the controls(switches, buttons and rotary s) in the foot print I also have the tm mcfds switches and the ones on the throttle anf tm stick. That hopefully wi cover everything.

 

I have a large box I was going to use for a button n box that if needed will replace the mcfds and hold max number of buttons ore toggles.

 

Ok back to my question did you have to print the internal part for a reason? Was it to build a stronger box or some other reason?